UdoK

Most of the whole Frames are sanded and prepared.
I started to errect and glue them to the building board. To receive a nice and strait construction I'am using a very thin string line running down the Center of the building jig with a plumb line fixed temporalily to the Center of each keel Slot in the Frames when glueing.
To have more rigidity in the structure I'am adding some scrap pieces between the Frames.

Most of the whole Frames are sanded and prepared.
I started to errect and glue them to the building board. To receive a nice and strait construction I'am using a very thin string line running down the Center of the building jig with a plumb line fixed temporalily to the Center of each keel Slot in the Frames when glueing.
To have more rigidity in the structure I'am adding some scrap pieces between the Frames.

Most of the whole Frames are sanded and prepared.
I started to errect and glue them to the building board. To receive a nice and strait construction I'am using a very thin string line running down the Center of the building jig with a plumb line fixed temporalily to the Center of each keel Slot in the Frames when glueing.
To have more rigidity in the structure I'am adding some scrap pieces between the Frames.

No pressure on this site, is there?  
 
I'm going to bow to pressure, even though it's against my better judgement.    I guess don't want Sjors to hit me up for piccy's.  
 
Here she sits with various implements of destruction lying about...  The black square is where the broken frame was.  Still have a lot of sanding and some re-working of joints before I cut gunports and lay in the ebony wales.
 
The black X's, in case you're wondering, are for the frames I can remove after the chain wale goes on.  A top rail fits in there.  I'm thinking about removing those early just in case she decides to implode/explode/self-destruct when I start removing the build board down the road.
 

Rigging progress.
 
Mizzen running rig complete, now for the sprit sail.
 
Almost done.
 
After a bit of a shaky start I have really enjoyed the rigging process.
 
I am trying photographing against a blue background, I think it reduces the contrast and makes the different coloured cords easier to see.
 
Cheers,
 
David.
 

  

 

Here are better pictures of my ship.  Sorry, but I did not put up the cheap paper flags.  I think they are tacky.  I don't know what my next build will be yet.  What are the cross bars that you put the sails on called?  Anyway, I think I did the back one incorrectly.  I think it was supposed to be tilted.  It did seem weird the way they had the mast done in the middle for that bar.  They were not very clear on how to do it.  I had to be clever on where to tie the front sail off of.  The tiny picture did not really show where the bottom ropes were supposed to be tied to.  I have learned sometimes you have to come up with clever ways of doing certain things.  You know they really need people who don't know how to put these ships together to test their directions to see if the directions are clear enough for people to understand.
 

 

 

 

 

I am very sad.   My shrouds turned out terrible.  The rope/thread for them was horrible.  It would not tighten at all.  It is like a thicker, kind of waxy, hard thread.  Anyway, I did get creative and make them look a little better.  I still have some ends I need to clip in these pictures.
 


 

 

Topmasts continued with shrouds attached. I never realized how much detail goes into them. I have yet to add ratlines, a daunting prospect again after going to a wedding last night so the couch is easier.

Slowly fitting the topmasts. I just have to glue in the mast tops and align it properly before setting it for good.
 
I had to include the tackle first as the shrouds will run over the top of them so they fall in a single line thus it has to be spliced. The double blocks are Chucks from Syren, drilled out a bit and filed along the sheeve lines to give a little more definition. 
 
shrouds next, then numerous backstays, then stays over the top, Then I'll have to worm the jeers up between them so they hang under it all.

Hi Jeff,I have a 30w soldering iron and some electrical solder so will try that the next time I have any soldering close to possible melting material!  The anchor ring isn’t under any stress so CA will do.
 
Thanks for the comment Mick
 
Hi Sam, I might try solid brass rod and take slices off the end as needed.  I was also wondering about trying Evergreen or equivalent styrene sheet to cut the sheaves from as would definitely be quicker and easier to cut and trim.
 
A quick paint, as obviously can’t blacken them and they are done.  For all you can see of sheave once its in place I think it may be a viable alternative.  I may try that also.
 
Hi Wayne, I have also drilled and cut grooves to simulate sheaves and have been happy with the result up to now, but because the davit had an open end sheave I had to fill the gap somehow.
 
When I get to the masts and yards which I believe are dotted throughout with various sheaves I might try some other techniques and materials to see what works.
 
 
A bit more progress with the anchors.  I previously mentioned that the grooves in the anchor stocks were to deep so here is a dark and blurry photo to show the gap with the two halves together.

 
 
To overcome this I glued in some 1mm walnut strip in to each groove in the stock, which then made the gap to small.  It was a case of filing the grooves back in with a miniature file until the anchor shank sat deeper in the stocks.
I was going to leave a gap between the stocks and bend the ends together like a real anchor but wasn’t happy with the way they looked so took some artistic licence and continue to file the grooves until the stock halves fitted together the full length.
 
Next up was to do the puddening on the anchor rings.  I used my pliers and a clamp as a kind of helping hand.
 

 
 
With the puddening I found a thread on MSW which mentioned that 0.25mm thread would be suitable so that’s what I used.  I have no idea how to start and end the puddening.  I tried a dab of CA glue to fix the end to the ring then wound my way round.  Once I got to the end I used CA again to fix it but not happy with this method.

 
 
I also tried various media as I worked round the ring to hold the thread in place.  Initially I tried using watered down PVA but this appeared to bulk up the thread.  I also tried using Caldercraft Flat matt varnish which worked very well as dries invisible so used that.  I would wind along a bit and then varnish then continue.  Again I don’t know a way to secure the ends.

 
 
I used brown Guttermann cotton thread to do the extra bits round the puddening (don’t know the term for this) but yet again don’t know how to start or finish.

 
As can be seen in the finished photo the puddening itself isn’t bad and settled into a rhythm to do this BUT the start and finishing is terrible and lets it down. Also not happy with extra brown bits as my spacing went awry as well as being clumsily executed.  I will cut the whole lot off and try again.
 
If anyone has a method for starting and finishing the puddening I would like to hear from you.
 
Cheers
Slog

I'am pretty busy today!
 
First two of the whole Frames are up, dry fitted to the building board.
 

Thanks Pavel, the building method is different to a POB kit indeed but I enjoy it very much to build a ship this way.
 
In order to center and align the Frames later on in the building board I made myself a "adjustable" jig with keel and keelson. I find it easier to sand the frames to lenght and make sure the keel fit in properly instead doing it with the drawings only.

Hi all,
finally I got the Backbone done.
At the first attempt of making new stem parts  I did a mistake on cutting the Joints due to be in a rush. No good, I couldn't use the parts anymore.
I had to order some cherry wood to start the second try, that worked well.
 
Here is the result with Joints and false keel as per the Aots drawings.
 

Hi all,
finally I got the Backbone done.
At the first attempt of making new stem parts  I did a mistake on cutting the Joints due to be in a rush. No good, I couldn't use the parts anymore.
I had to order some cherry wood to start the second try, that worked well.
 
Here is the result with Joints and false keel as per the Aots drawings.
 

Wow!  Crackers thank you for the flowers.   Thank you all for the compliments and tips.  
 
Popeye I am not quite sure what the cabin bulkhead means (I even looked it up in our definition MS word document).  Does it mean where I have the cabin on top of the aft (I think that is the right term)?  The castle? deck partially covers the the bottom deck.  I hope I said that right.  There are so many terms I still need to learn.
 
Aha, I am guessing you have to have a perfect fit to be able to use the thin glue.  Am I right on that one?  The glue I am using gives me the ability to glue things that are not perfectly flush with each other.  Fluid, but fills gaps.
 
It would really be awesome to be in a contest, but I don't know if I will ever reach that point.  Of course, you never know.   I think I am catching onto what putty is.  Is it like the way they use putty on cars?
 
Here is where I am with my ship.  I am having so much fun doing this ship!
 
 
 

Kimberley,
to hold pieces together you can use masking tape like the Tamiya tape available in different width.

I got the hull painted today.  I really do like the acrylic paint.  I think I did a pretty good job.  I need to do a few touch ups, but otherwise I think it looks pretty good.  I am feeling more comfortable with the paint now.  It is not as intimidating as I thought it would be.
 

Hello Kimberley
although I never did a plastic ship kit by myself I wish you all the best for your build and will follow.
 
In the Background of your Picture I can see you have a bunch of Vallejo model Colors. I used to work with them on my RC boats for weathering,always very happy with the result.

Hello Elmir,
a neat build of a nice ship!
 
Happy birthday to you!

The next view is from the fore deck looking back across the opened up waist area. The area under the quarter deck is now very visible. However, once the chain pumps, main mast, gallows and steps are in place the view will be more restricted.
 
If I had put the companion way behind the capstan (as in the Lymm) then it would have been worth modeling the lower part of the capstan which would then have been on view.
 
One of the out of scale beams is on view, but this should be masked later by a scale beam which will go across the fore edge of the quarter deck.
 

 
Finally a view from the quarter deck looking forward with the stove's flue pocking up through the fore deck.
 

 
Time to settle down to some planking inside the bulwarks. Now that is going to be fiddly.

Hello Patrick,
 
May I suggest you upload these pictures of your Bounty in the 'Gallery of COMPLETED Scratch-built models'.
 
It is very helpfull to post pictures, but it is a bit too much to put 15 pictures of your own build within Edward's log.
It might also be very confusing to other members who are following this topic.
Just post one or two pictures and refer to the others in the gallery.
 
Thank you for understandig and cooperation.
 
Regards,
Anja

Hello Vince,
I have never seen a euromodel kit in real, but from what I have seen in other european model Forums the plans and Quality of their kits are not bad.
A preview of their Royal William plans are displayed on the Website.
 
http://www.euromodel-ship.com/eng/royal-william-1.html#axzz2i8ee7IPE

No worries Sam, I assumed it was a mix up  .  Thanks for the info on the wire.
 
 
As mentioned up above I decided to do the pumps but after seeing Mikes scratch pumps and then checking Steve’s and Greg's who also scratched the pumps I set them aside until I decide what to do.
 
 
The photo shows the cast white metal components which are quite chunky.  The castings themselves were of decent quality needing only a touch up with a file to clean off some casting seams.  The other parts needed are 4mm dowel and 0.7mm brass rod. Hmmmmm decisions decisions…

 
 
While I procrastinated about the pumps I decided to move to the bow, since the rear deck is hung up on the pumps, the mid deck is hung up on the ships boats and cannon, I am running out of areas to work on LOL.
 
First up is the fish davits.  Caldercraft supply 2 davit pads and 2 shackles but only 1 fish davit.  Not sure if the real ship had only one davit that they humphed from side to side?  Any way the davit pads are 1.5mm walnut ply which after cutting free from the sheet I sanded a slight round on the top edge as per the AOTS and stuck down with CA.
 
The davit shackles are photo etch brass.  The plans don’t mention how they are secured to the deck but the AOTS shows them attached to an eyebolt so used the supplied copper ones.  The shackle needed the hole enlarged slightly with a drill to accept the eyebolt and after opening the eyebolt slightly to accept the shackle it was squeezed closed again and the parts chemically blackened.

 
 
The fish davit pads and shackles in place.  I haven’t done the davit yet as it has an open sheave so need to come up a sheave to fill the slot.

 
 
The bumpkins were up next.  Away back when I was doing the bulwarks and before the top rail was down, I marked the position of the bumpkins and cut slots into the bulwarks ready for this day.  There was a fair bit of discussion in MSW about the position of the bumpkins and how they should be placed over the rail, or even if the Endeavour had bumpkins, but this is how the kit shows them so happy to go along with this set-up.
 
Once the 2 halves of the walnut ply bumpkins were glued together and a final sand to clean them up they slid through the previous made slot into the solid walnut brackets which were CA glued to the deck.

 
 
The cat-heads next.  I was swithering whether to cut full slots and make up and insert proper sheaves but again a lack of suitable material at hand decided for me so made false sheaves by drilling 1mm holes right through the cat-head and after scribing lines joining the holes the material was picked out with the craft knife.

 
 
A couple of photos of todays work.  I notice most people paint the cat heads black but decided to varnish first so that the securing bolts and ringbolts on the side  (this is not mentioned in the plans but is in the AOTS) stand out more.  I still have the thumb cleats on the sides to do (again not in the plans but is in the AOTS) as I was almost finished them when “one little trim needed to finish" caused one to break apart.
 
I may go back and paint them black but will see.


 
Cheers
Slog

Hi all,
most of the sawing Job is done, the whole Frames are cut out now.
Next is to sand them to final shape, I will leave a few 1/10mm on for fairing after construction of the hull has been completed.

The time had come to blacken the stove. I used Birchwood Casey Brass Black. I had a tiny jam jar (the sort you get at breakfast in decent hotels) which was big enough to slip the stove in. I topped up the jar with sufficient neat Brass Black to cover the stove and let it have a bath for 60 seconds with the occasional gentle agitate. Then I washed it in running water.
 
The following day I gave it a gentle burnish.
 
Now those of you (like me) who follow EdT's work will know that he is not a fan of brass blackened with selenious solution because raised detail and edges if rubbed create bright spots where the blackening rubs off. 
 
See, for example, page 22 entry no 318 of tlavine's HMS Atalanta log <link>. Ed describes his preferred use of copper which "....can then be blackened with no effect on surrounding wood using liver of sulfur solution. LOS does not work on brass."
 
Anyone who has worked on a model of locomotives know that there tend to be large areas of the undercarriage which are painted black. On models large areas of black tend to camouflage detail. The usual antidote is to dry brush the edges of the detail with a small amount of grey paint which if done carefully will represent the light glinting on the edges and points of the detail of the full sized item.
 
Now in this case, rather than drybrush the detail, I decided to change the vice identified by EdT in to a virtue - I deliberately polished the edges of the detail. So hopefully when the stove is in the gloom of the Unicorn gun deck its detail will gently glimmer.
 
Anywhere that I overdid the polishing I used a small brush to apply a drop of neat Brass Black to the exposed metal for 30 to 60 seconds then washed it off to reblacken that part (avoiding covering already blackened parts).
 
Inside the hearth there were visible joints where I was not able to clean the solder off completely so this rather showed up after blackening. The solder I covered with Humbrol No33 matt black paint which blends in with the blackening well.
 
At this point I added the spit drive made from 0.1mm wire. I got this wire by stripping the insulation off some instrument wire which produces several strands. 5 amp fuse wire is another source. I am afraid I cheated here - I used superglue to fix it. 
 
I made the riding bits that enclose the stove from 5mm square walnut and fixed these to the stove base. I debated whether these should be more elaborately carved but the ones on contemporary models seemed to be plain.
 

 

 
The base will need a bit of fettling to make it sit properly on the camber of the deck - so the stove will be fixed after that is done. Until then I will have to put the stove somewhere safe because next I will attack the waist.
 
The last photo is the stove sat on the Unicorn deck immediately above its final location.