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Glenn-UK

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  1. Glenn-UK
    Garden Defender Repair One of the advantages of the model boat hobby is I have plenty of different glues, paints and varnishes available. Whilst out in the garden with our granddaughter this weekend we noticed one of the garden defenders was is need of some TLC. So the sad looking broken gnome was taken to the shipyard. After a good clean the broken porcelain parts were glued back together. As most of the paint had disappeared a major repaint was required followed by a couple of coats of varnish. Hi Ho Hi Ho it's off to work he goes. Only 364 Eyebolts To Fit Back to the task in hand this morning and I released the required number of PE-1 eyebolts from the photo etched sheet. Where possible I kept them in strips of 14 which would cover the requirements for one cannon. When this was not possible I opted for 2 x strips of 7. The strips were cleansed in acetone and then put in a sieve which was then placed in a pan of very hot soapy water and left for 20 minutes on a low heat. The strips were then ready to be chemically blackened. Working on a few strips at a time it did not take too long to complete the blackening process. Starting at the first cannon position a micro drill bit was used to check each openings were clear and deep enough for the eyebolts. After a dry fit test each eyebolt was dipped in some ca glue and inserted into their respective holes. The first cannon position is now complete and looks good with the cannon dry fitted in position. Only another 25 more positions to complete. Hi Ho Hi Ho It's off to work I go
  2. Glenn-UK
    Painting Completed A pleasant afternoon splitting my time between watching the open and applying coats of paint. As I removed the masking tape I was pleased that there very little paint leakage, and the excess paint was easy to remove with a bit of sanding. I needed a steady hand to apply the iron black paint to the cap squares on each of the 26 off 24lb cannon carriages. I then thought it would be a good idea to add a set of wheels to one of the cannon carriages, remembering to remove the laser char from the outer edge of each wheel before fitting. It is a really nice looking cannon. With regards to the cannon eyebolts to be fitted, there are 7 required per cannon carriage, 6 located on the bulwark and upper ledge patterns for each cannon carriage and 1 located on the gun deck for each cannon carriage . There is a note supplied with the kit with regards to the eyebolts. I am not entirely sure what the 2 packs of 100 copper eyelets are for as yet, but the note indicates these are to be used for all the deck and lower top eyebolts. The note also states that the photo etched (PE-1) main eyelets are for all cannon associated eyebolts, i.e the 7 per cannon carriage, 6 per bulwark carriage position and 1 per gun deck for each cannon carriage. Next it was time for a test fit on the gun deck. Everything looks good, noting there is some residual masking tape debris to clean away. This weekend I will be on grandparent duty looking after a very active 2 & 1/2 year old. I'm not expecting to be able to spend too much time, if any, in the shipyard. The next planned task will be blackening and fitting 364 PE-1 eyebolts (14 PE-1 eyebolts per cannon, 26 cannons so 26 x 14 = 364) and fitting the cannon carriages wheels. I think will take quite a few days to complete. I might intersperse these activities with some other tasks to break up the monotony.
  3. Glenn-UK
    Painting Commences I have been debating if I should invest in a airbrush system which will probably yield much better results. However for the time being I will continue with using paint brushes. I applied a coat of WOP to the all cannon carriages, gun port openings, inner bulwarks, spirketting and upper ledge patterns. Once the WOP had dried out it was time to start the painting process. The cannons are looking OK after the first coat. One or two more coats will be required. Next it was time to tape the Indy hull. I started with painting the gun ports. The Indy hull looks reasonably OK after the first coat of paint. Some more coats will be required however.
  4. Glenn-UK
    I remember doing the all the gun ports and adding linings on Caldercraft's victory, it was quite a task.
  5. Glenn-UK
    Painting Preparation I am not going to rush the next stage which will be to paint the cannon carriages, gun ports and inner bulwarks. Using some balsa wood strips I made a couple of bases to hold the cannons in readiness of the painting. My painting plan fpr the cannon carriages is start with applying a WOP coat. Next I will spray paint with some Plastikote Red Oxide Primer. Finally I will add a couple of light coats of Tamiya Flat Red. The cannon carriages are now ready and waiting! I also inspected the gun port openings to made sure all looked good before painting them. As can be seen in the next photo one gun port opening required a bit more work. I added a bit of wood filler, but as can be seen in the next photo there is still a little bit work required. The next photo shows another gun port that requires a bit of wood fill attention. Looks much better with a bit of filler added. Once the wood filler has been given time to dry I will give each gun port opening a final sanding with some 400-grit sand paper and assuming all look good to my eye I can start painting.
  6. Glenn-UK
    24lb Cannon Carriages I have now completed the basic assembly of the gundeck 24lb cannon carriages. They are ready to be painted along with the gun port openings, inner bulwarks, spirketting and upper ledge patterns. As can be seen in the two attached photos the cannon carriage tabs all locate in the slots created when planking the deck with boxwood. Although the manual suggested using 0.8 brass rods to support the carriage stool bed and quoin assembly and I opted to use 1mm brass rod as it a better fit for the holes provided in the gun carriage side patterns.
  7. Glenn-UK
    24lb Cannon Production (26 to make) - The Start As detailed in my last post I built a simple jig to aid the assembly process of the 26 off 24lb cannons. With the front and rear axles loaded in the jig glue was applied to the joints and the two carriage side panels were added. The carriage sides were clamped to the front axle as the glue was curing. I am really pleased that I invested time in building the jig as it has really helped me with the assembly process. In a short space of time the first 4 cannon carriages were assembled and they are now ready to be painted before the wheels can be added. I have found the ideal storage area for the assembled frames. It was then time to book another river cruise along the Blue Danube from Budapest to Salzburg, via Vienna, departing middle of next month. After a spot of lunch the next cannon was added and the 6th cannon was assembled in the jig. Production is going to stall due to family birthday celebrations (not mine) and visitors coming to stay for a few days. I am hopeful I can still sneak a few hours in the shipyard.
  8. Glenn-UK
    Spirketting and Upper Ledge Patterns After giving the planked deck a good scrapping, I am now reasonably happy with the end result so I more inclined to add a WOP finish rather than a wood stain finish. I decided that I would paint the inner bulwarks red after the spirketting and upper ledge patterns had been fitted. With the laser char removed from the top and bottom edges of the spirketting and upper ledge patterns it was a relatively easy task to glue and clamp the pattern in place. I have ordered some additional material with a view to adding a waterway between the gun deck and spirketting, therefore any paint seepage under the masking tape can be covered up. I have added some photos of the spirketting and upper ledge patterns in place. Cannon Assembly Jig It is probably a bit OTT but I ended up making a jig to aid with the assembly of the cannons this afternoon. Starting with a base I cut a slot for the front axle gundeck locating tab, as shown by the blue arrow in the next photo. The yellow arrow indicates where the rear axle will be positioned. I added a side stop to ensure the rear axle is centrally positioned. This is not strictly necessary as I also added to side supports for the cannon side patterns. In the next photo the front axle has been added to the jig. I added a back and front to ensure the front axle is not leaning forward or backward. The rear axle is now positioned in the jig. Next the first side pattern is added, making sure it is fully seated on the two axles. The other side piece is now added to the jig. In the above photo’s the cannon shown has only been dry fitted. I will try a test glued cannon assembly in the morning, and fingers crossed I will be able to release the assembled from the jig. As each cannon is in the jig the next cannon parts can be removed from the sheet and the laser char removed to allow time for the glue to grab. Once I have built the 26 off cannons they will be painted. In the build manual a short length of 0.8mm brass bar is linked between the two side panels. Having checked the fitting I believe this should be a 1mm copper bar, has any of the other builder noticed this?
  9. Glenn-UK
    Dooh! I read that as followed by, chalk that up to a senior moment
  10. Glenn-UK
    Thanks for the advice. I do have some Vallejo Acrylic Varnish. I am interested to know why this is applied before the scraping. I was really pleased with how the cannon slots turned out.
  11. Glenn-UK
    Gun Deck Planking – Completed I have now returned from an amazing European holiday, as can be seen from the three photos I have included in the post. We were there during a red alert heatwave, which suited me as I love the sun. The Eiger (Left hand side of photo with the summit in the clouds) Strasbourg (Very scenic) Lucerne (A fantastic covered bridge) As my back is now much improved, I have been able to spend a bit more time in the shipyard this week and I have finally completed the planking to the gun deck this afternoon. The gun deck planking will now need to be cleaned up. I plan to use a blade to scrape the gun deck planks. As there is some colour difference between the planks I have ordered some different water based wood stains so I experiment with some different colours (on scrap wood samples) to see if I can get a nice pale wood stain finish. If I am unable to find a suitable stain finish I will simply add a WOP finish to the planking which I know will look good. Whilst I wait for the wood stains to arrive, I might turn my attention to painting and assembling the cannons so I check how they will look when placed in their locating slots. As each cannon locating slot was added during the planking process I did make sure the cannon tab would locate in each slot. I have added a selection of photos of the completed planking. As can be seen in the final photo I did manage to damage one of the bulkhead ears. The ear can be glued back in place without any difficultly.
  12. Glenn-UK
    Looks good. I have been considering buying an air brush. Which one did you get?
  13. Glenn-UK
    Thanks. The back in much better but the waist is much fatter with all the fine dining
  14. Glenn-UK
    Hello Dave. We had left Lucerne earlier in the day and taken the cog railway to spend the afternoon at Schynige Platte.
  15. Glenn-UK
    Excellent workmanship. I wish I had your patience and skill.
  16. Glenn-UK
    As I cruise down the Rhine, bathed in sunshine do I get envious of the excellent progress the other Indy builders?, such as @Kevin, @ECK and @Blue Ensign A picture is sometimes better than words I should return to the shipyard sometime next week
  17. Glenn-UK
    Nicely done.
  18. Glenn-UK
    I have done a little bit more on the deck planking. I have found it necessary to use plank off cuts to hold some of the deck planks in place as the glue cures to ensure the planks are nice and snug to the adjacent planks. I will be AWOL for the next 9+ days as my wife and I take a nice train journey to Basel (Switzerland), via Paris (and the riots) and then will enjoy a 5 star cruise up the Rhine to Dusseldorf, with plenty of places to visit, including: a) Lucerne and Bernese Oberland b) The Black Forest c) Strasbourg d) Speyer e) Rudesheim, Rhine Gorge and Koblenz f) Cologne
  19. Glenn-UK
    It looks like you've made an excellent job of the 2nd planking
  20. Glenn-UK
    I am spoilt for choice for my next project.
  21. Glenn-UK
    Looks great, excellent workmanship as always.
  22. Glenn-UK
    No treenails with any of deck planking😀
  23. Glenn-UK
    Many thanks. Also much of this planking will be hidden by the upper decks and gangways.
  24. Glenn-UK
    Gun Deck Planking – Left-Hand Side Started Before I start planking towards the left-hand bulwark, I need to complete the infill areas around all the hatches. Using the laser etch line on the gundeck base as a guide the first I added a set of planks from the bow to the stern. The first two planks that were cut and glued in place are shown in the photo below. The next task was to cut and glue the various inner infill planks. The completed first hatch infill area is shown in the next photo. The next hatch infill is soon completed as there was not much work required. The next section required a lot more work, but with careful measurement and accurate cutting the infill was completed and the bitts were test fitted. The final hatch to infill was straightforward and one of the deck beam support was test fitted. The infill to the stern was the final task. I decided it was unnecessary to open up the area for the final hatch, but I did mark the area where the hatch would be located and then did a dry fit as can be seen in the next two photos Next is a photo of the stern area with the deck support beams test fitted. To ensure the eyebolts are correctly positioned I am using a simple jig and the one shown has been set for the first pair of eyebolts. The supplied boxwood planks do vary in colour so before I start the planking toward the left-hand bulwarks, I will try to sort out the best colour matched planks. 19 planks lengths will be required to complete the left-hand side.
  25. Glenn-UK
    Gun Deck Planking – Right-Hand Side Completed I have now completed the planking of the right-hand side of the gun deck. As stated in my previous post(s) I am using a 3-butt shift pattern, with a plank length of 100mm and 25mm offsets for the required butt shift pattern. This equates to approx. 6.4m long planks at full scale. I was fearing adding the cut-outs for the cannon bases would be tricky, but it turned out to be relatively straight forward, especially when using the 100mm plank lengths. As each slot was cut it was tested using one of the cannon base parts. Although I really like the boxwood finish I might, once the completed deck has been scrapped clean, consider using a wood stain. A little bit of experimentation is in order before I decide to use either a WOP varnish or a wood stain. I have attached a few photos of the planking, noting these planks still need to scrapped clean.

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