Glenn-UK
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Everything posted by Glenn-UK
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009 - First Planking Completed The first planking of the Erycina hull is now complete. Despite this being my 10th model boat project, I still seem to struggle with mastering the planking techniques. I certainly made a much better job of the right-hand side planking compared with the left-hand side on the Erycina. I have given the hull its first pass of sanding and, for the most part, the hull is now reasonably smooth. I will revisit the state of the hull when I'm next in the shipyard and will continue to sand where appropriate. It is vitally important to get a smooth hull structure before adding the second layer of planking. In no particular order I have attached a selection of photos showing the completed first planking.
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- Erycina
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008 - First Planking WIP I have now completed planking the right-hand side of the Erycina hull. The planks went on without too many issues. The first three planks did not require any tapering around the bow area. Once I had completed the first 5 planks, I moved on to add the garboard plank and I then continued to plank upward. There are a few little bumps and dips, but I don't think it will require a great deal of sanding or filling to get a nice smooth surface ready for the second planking. The stern area turned out reasonably neat. The bow area also looks OK. I have now started to plank the left-hand side. I have added the first top plank and the bottom garboard plank. I would expect to complete planking this side in the next couple of days. I have also added the small stern filler piece above the top plank.
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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Slow and steady but I'm making good progress
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007 - Deck Items and Start of First Planking I have done a bit more work with the deck items now that all the PE parts have been painted. The photo below shows the companionway doors with hinges and handles fitted I have now added the double block and PE parts to the Main Sheet Housing as shown below. The parts have been added to the Gypsy Winch. I have only dry fitted the three brass wire parts as they still need to be cut to the right length. I have test fitted the which to the deck as shown in the next two photos. The parts have been added to the Main Windlass. I have only dry fitted the brass wires as they still need to be cut to the right length. I have test fitted the windlass to the deck as shown in the next two photos. As indicated in a previous post I noted that I would need to add some shims to the bulkheads before I could start the planking which I have now done, as can be seen in the photo below. When starting to add the first plank to the stern area I felt it was better to let the plank following a natural path which meant I will need to add a steeler to fill the gap. The first plank has been fitted. I did dry fit the stem rabbet pattern and drew a pencil line which will aid me when planking to the stem post. When fitting the planks, I am beveling the top edge before fitting which does help get a better joint between the planks. I have been taking my time adding the planks and I have completed three planks.
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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An excellent model, you must be immensely proud of your build.
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- Sphinx
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006 - More Fairing, Planking Issue and Deck Items As @James H pointed out I had not faired the outer stern frames. This has now been done. The bulwarks are still drying after being soaked to remove the residual wood glue, so they are only clamped on the hull in the pictures below. I then decided to check how the first plank would look. For the most part I am really happy with the how this plank will lay. However, I did detect an area where there is a gap as can be seen in the next photo. As there is no gap between the bulwarks and bulkheads this is probably due to me over fairing some of the bulkheads. It is not a major issue as I will just add some filler shims so, when fitted, the plank will be at the same level as the bulwarks. I then thought it would be fun to test fit the some of the deck items. Some of these deck items require some PE parts to be added. The sheet is currently in the paint shop where I am waiting for the black paint (sprayed on) to dry
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
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Great job. I'm looking forward to building this one.
- 59 replies
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- saucy jack
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Many thanks James Both rear bulwarks are removed so I can fair the outer stern frames as they should be done. Glenn
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005 - Bulwarks, inner stern counter and more deck items The bulwarks had been left for 24 hours to fully dry out, clamped to the hull. With the clamps removed they had retained the required bend. Taking each bulwark in turn, the position of the bulkheads were marked and a small 0.5mm hole drilled for the brass pins. Glue was then applied to the bulkheads below the deck and along the deck edge and the bulwarks were then pinned in place. I was very happy with the end result. Once the glued had cured the inner stern counter was glued into place. So far so good, what could possibly go wrong. It was then I then noted the left-hand rear bulwark was a bit floppy at the stern end. On closer inspection I realised the outer left side stern counter had snapped at the point shown in the photo below. I think the damaged happened when the inner stern counter was clamped in place and was probably not sitting fully on the stern frame even though I thought I had checked that. In the photo below the damaged part has been glued back in place and you will not that I am using the transom rail to help ensure in is set in the right position Thankfully I was able to release the left-hand rear bulwark without too much effort and without damage. As can be seen in the photo below there is sone glue deposits and traces of the outer stern frame on the bulwark which I will need to remove. To remove the glue deposits the bulwark was soaked in hot water for 30 mins which did the trick. The part was then clamped back in place and will now be left to fully dry out (again). I will have to take care when fitting the part with regards to the inner stern counter. As can be seen in the photo below there is slight positional problem which needs to be avoided when the part is glued in place. I have now made the capstan assembly. As can be seen in the photo below the top red section is not fully seated (or glued) on the lower section at the moment. The instructions did indicate that the slot for part PE-45 (a small upright post) was missing from part PE-41 (top section). It suggested cutting off the unexposed length of PE-45 and glue directly to the small, raised position on PE-45. I opted to modify part PE-45 by adding the missing slot. The upper red section would have looked much so much better with an air brush paint job rather than a paint brush. Another tool to add to my wish list. The remaining green parts have also been hand painted.
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
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004 - Bulwarks and Priming The keel, stem and stern posts have now been glued in place. As you would expect with a Vanguard Models kit everything fitted together without any problems. As I was checking the bulkheads during the final fairing process I added some pencil marks, as can be seen on the photo below, to indicate where the planks will lay. The 4 bulwark parts were soaked in hot water for 30 mins before they were clamped in place. These will be left clamped for at least 12 hours to ensure the strips have fully dried out. Whilst waiting for the bulwarks to dry I have taken the PE sheet, which had been cleaned with acetone and soapy water, and I applied a coat of primer. Once the primer is dry, I can apply the required colour to each part. There were a few a more parts to clean and prime. In the photo below they are in a bath of acetone and the soapy water bath can also be seen in the photo. I tend to soak the parts in the soapy water first for around 10 mins before using a toothbrush to gently on the parts. I then transfer the parts to the acetone and repeat the toothbrush cleaning process after about 10 mins. The parts will go through another soapy water and acetone bath treatment before being washed in clean water and dried. I made a simple jig to hold the parts and then applied a coat of primer. I haven't primed the chain pipe as the resin part supplied is black and I am undecided if I will leave as is or if I will paint green, as shown in the manual. There is not a lot more I can do at the moment. I could start making the masts, bowsprit, etc. but I think I will leave that for another time.
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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003 - Deck Items With the inner stern counter immersed in hot water for 30 mins I faired the stern frames. Once I was happy with the stern frame fairing the inner stern counter was clamped in place. This will be left clamped to allow the inner stern counter to fully dry out. I noted in the build manual that the lower from end tabs of the front bulwarks required a bevel so the part will sit flush with the side of the hull bulkheads. As I waited for the inner stern counter to dry, I decided to build some of the deck items. I started with the fish hatches. It is important to remove the laser char from the visible edges when releasing parts from the sheets. When assembling the ladder, once the laser char had been removed, I have found it best to start by gluing two rungs to one side. This will be left for a few minutes to allow the glue to grip. After a few minutes the other side of the ladder was glued in place. This assembly will be left for a few minutes to allow the glue to grip It is then a simple task to insert the remaining rungs to complete the ladder assembly The next item to build was the companionway. This was a simple item to build. I am pleased that the roof door slides smoothly in the slots. I just need to add the front doors to complete the assembly. I have not added these doors as they required two PE hinges. I have started to prepare the PE parts. The PE sheet has been through a through cleansing process using a mixture soaking the sheet in hot soapy water and acetone.
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
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002 - Hull Construction Part 2 I have made a bit more progress. I had just coated a diluted titebond solution to the bulkhead joints so as I was waiting for the glue to cure, I decided to check some of the deck items. I started with the main sheet housing which slots into the deck. Once I had removed the laser char from the visible edges, I did a test fit with the deck. As can be seen it was a perfect fit. As I started to assemble the parts I used a straight edge to check and set the correct alignment. The basic main sheet housing assembly is now complete. I will add the cleat, block and eyebolt later on as the assembly still requires a bit of tidy up work Once the bulkhead joints glue had fully cured, I went ahead and fitted the deck. I took my time as the deck was carefully positioned and I ensured it was fully engaged with the all the bulkhead securing slots. Once I was happy the underside joints were coated with a diluted titebond solution. With the deck glued in place it was time to fair the bulkheads. I used a length of planking material to check the fairing. As can be seen in the photo below the test plank is a nice fit except in a couple of places so a bit more work is required. I am now happy with how the plank lays. When considering how the inner stern counter should be fitted, I have noted the bottom edges of the various stern frames will need fairing for a smooth curved fit. I have also checked the fit of the stern, keel and stem patterns, dry fit only so far. I have also dry fitted the front and rear bulwarks, taking care to use the line on the bulwarks to align with the deck.
- 106 replies
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- Erycina
- Plymouth Trawler
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A great looking model, well done
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Thanks Kevin. I am very pleased with the finished model.
- 476 replies
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- sphinx
- vanguard models
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Thanks, I really like the work shown on your build log also and it is something I can aspire to one day
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- sphinx
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Many thanks. I am glad you've enjoyed the build log.
- 476 replies
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- sphinx
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Many thanks. I am sure you do have the skill and patience for such a build.
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Thanks Derek. I learnt a lot from your build logs. I think Indy will be a very long 2+year build project.
- 476 replies
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- sphinx
- vanguard models
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I have just started my Erycina build today. I will refer to your build log as I progress.
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- Erycina
- Vanguard Models
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