Glenn-UK

The square tuck arrangement is for framing so there are no open ends where the planking terminates at the stern.

I have now completed the right-hand side second planking. There is a wet nature in the photos below as I did brush the hull with a dampened brush. This was done to remove any unwanted dust from the hull and to also highlight any areas which may require a little bit of attention. Overall I am very satisfied with how this has turned out, it is not perfect but generally it looks good to the naked eye. I will now spend a few more days repeating the process for the left-hand side. Fingers crossed I can repeat what I have done already. The wale (when fitted) will positioned between the lower laser etched line on the bulwark pattern and the third strake. I am planning to add a square tuck to the stern.

Looks great

Work is progressing slow and steady on adding the second planking. I have now completed the planking on the right-hand side down to where the water line terminates at bow and stern. I have also added the garboard along the keel, comprising 2 x 4mm planks. I have continued to use shorter plank lengths (max approx 140mm). In the photo below the red arrows shows the position of the different plank joints, noting the pattern does repeat with every third strake. When fitting a plank I do mark the position of the next plank, as indicated by the blue arrow. The bow planking is looking reasonably Ok at the moment. I am colour matching the planks as I go along. The lateral bend is really helping and there is no real evidence of clinkering which is a first for me. In the photo below the CA glue stain will be hidden by the wale, when fitted. The blue arrow indicates where the plank width is tapered to 3mm and will taper to 2mm at the stem post. The final two photos shows the stern area. Once the plank ends have been sanded flush with the stern counter I am planning to add a square tuck finish. There is still a few days work left to complete the right-hand side before moving on repeat for the left-hand side.

Looks great

Many thanks Mark, much appreciated.

There is quite a lot colour variation with the kit supplied second planking material. Also there are a few planks that have manufacturing defects, such as ripped edges and tapering. I have sorted through and will use the best planks for the area beneath the wales and above the water line. The quality and colour variation of the kit supplied second planking material is not a issue when the hull is either painted or coppered. The Harpy will be coppered below the water line. If going for a natural wood, varnished finish to show of the planking then it is probably better to replace the second planking material with high quality milled timber from a supplier such as Hobbymill EU. My planking is not up to that standard as yet. I ended up following the same method as @Blue Ensign with regards adding the two strakes that sit beneath the wales and then trimming the excess material so the next strake will follow the same line as the bottom edge of the wale. Once that was done I took some measurements and created a schedule for the planking between the bottom edge of the wale and the garboard. I am not going to taper the stern planks and will simply add stealers as and when necessary. In the next photo I have added the first four strakes that sit beneath the wale. The blue arrow indicates where the strakes added that sit beneath the wale. I have use the planks that were the worst with regards to colour matching for this area. When adding the second planking I am fitting planks of approx 140mmL and making joints on the bulkhead lines. In the next photo you will see where the various joints have been made. The next photo shows how the stern looks, noting the blue arrow shows the planks that will be hidden by the wale. The following set of photos shows the process I am using to add planks in a bit more detail. Once the plank has been tapered as per my planking schedule it is wetted and then clamped to my workbench so a lateral bend can be applied. I use a hairdryer to apply heat to the dampened plank for approx. 1 minute. The laterally bent plank is then test fitted. The plank looks a good fit in the photo below. The plank is then cut to length, using a guillotine. In the next photo the second plank has been added. I slightly dampen the plank before gluing as the adhesion with the CA is much quicker. When adding the stern plank I like to add a slight twist to get a good fit. In the final photo of this photo the stern plank has been fitted. The blue arrow shows the approximate position of the water line.

I use Guild Materials Sanding Sealer, GLDCEX1100125

The outer bulwark patterns have now been added to the hull. I used a variety of clamps to hold the patterns in place as the glue was curing. I did find it necessary to use my hand made clamps to ensure the bottom edge of the patterns were in contact with the hull. Once the patterns had been clamped in place all the gun port jigs were removed to ensure they were not accidently glued in place. When the clamps were removed I was reasonably happy with how they looked. When reading some of the other build logs there were some different approaches made to the second planking with regards to how the planks will align with the wale patterns. I have marked the line where lower edge of the wale will sit of the hull as shown in the photo below. My plan is to add a plank aligned with the marked bottom edge line and then to infill the area between that plank and the bulwarks. Before starting the second planking I applied a coat of sanding sealer to the hull. The position of the bullheads are marked in case I decide to use them should I wish to add some pins when planking below the water line. I will add a line for the waterline before I start to add the second planking. I plan to follow @Blue Ensign lead and use individual plank lengths of approx 140mm, with a minimum length of 60mm for the planking between the wale and waterline.

Hello Maurice You hard work and attention to detail is paying off as the coppering looks great. Thanks for a very informative post (once again). Glenn (UK)

The paint job looks great

The next task in the build process is to add the outer bulwark decorative patterns. To assist with the aligning of these patterns the kit is provided with a set of gun port jigs. Each gun port jig has a laser engraved position identifier. When test fitting these jigs I did notice the ones marked as 2L through to 10L are shaped for the right hand gun port openings side and the ones marked as 2R through to 10R are required for the left hand side gun port openings. The outer patterns, after being soaked in warm water, were clamped to the hull and left to dry out overnight. I used plenty of clamps for the bow area. Once the patterns had fully dried out the the right-hand pattern was carefully aligned. I did shave approx. 0.5mm from the bow end of the pattern before I was happy with how the pattern lined up, with the hawse holes and with all the gun port jigs fitted. It was necessary to trim some of the bulkhead ears to allow the gun port jigs to be full inserted. With previous builds I would have been happy to proceed to gluing this pattern in place. However as I noted that the bottom edge of this pattern was not sitting flush with the hull I felt I should try to address this issue. Please see the next photo where shows the problem. The uses of clamps did not solve the problem therefore I decided to resoak the planks in the problem area and to then add some additional clamps and pins positioned below the pattern to try to close the gap. I fashioned some suitable clamps using some spare planking material. As can be seen in the next photo the pattern has been wetted and a combination of clamps & pins have been used. Hopefully, once the pattern has dried out, the pattern will be a better fit along the bottom edge of the hull. When checking the position of the left hand pattern I noted that I will need to trim approx. 2mm from the bow end to ensure the pattern aligns with the hawse holes and gun port openings. This can be seen with the final two photos of this post.

Looks great

Hello Maurice Great work on the coppering and choice of CA. I have one question which is "What burnishing stick are you using?" I have followed you lead with regards to the square tuck which looks great on your model. Cheers Glenn (UK)

The Square Tuck When looking at @Blue Ensign excellent and very information build log for the Harpy I really liked his square tuck enhancement. I decided it was worth investigating weather I could follow his lead in this respect. Using the two stern counter patterns as a template I draw the required shape on some excess pear wood. I did made the lower square cut patterns using some 1 mm pear wood scraps but as the infill would be 0.8mm thick planking material I made another pair from 0,8mm pear wood scraps. I did not have the luxury of a jigsaw to cut these parts but I was able to cut the parts out using a sharp bladed craft knife. In the next photo you can see I am checking the contour of the pattern matches the stern counter pattern. With the two stern counter patterns glued in place the lower square cut patterns are checked and look OK. A little bit more work may be required once the second planking has been completed. I forgot about the stern post outer patterns, so the square tuck patterns were checked again after the outer patterns were test fitted. Once that was done I made the two top sections required for the square cut. I think they pass the initial inspection so I will put these parts to one side for the time being and proceed on with the build, I will add a planked infill, as per @Blue Ensign build method. It has been an interesting little side project and one I am pleased to have tried.

Thanks Mark

Thanks Bob

The first planking task is now complete. For the most part I am really pleased with how the hull looks. There are a few strakes I could have done better but overall my planking is improving with each build. Using a mixture of my mouse sander, sanding sticks and sand paper the hull has now been sanded smooth. I have used both the sight and feel test and all looks good and feels smooth. I will still need to do some more checks with regard to how the second planking will look after the outer patterns have been test fitted to the stem post, keel and stem post as the second planking is to sit flush with the outer edges of the keel and stern post patterns. I also need to check the second planks will fit in the rabbet that is created when these outer patterns have been added. Once I am happy with everything I will apply a coating of sanding sealer to the hull.

I shall be interested to see what you do with fitting the wales as I am currently a few days behind you with my Harpy build.

Thanks Mark

The first planking of the Harpy continues but the end is near. I hope to have to completed later in the week, all being well. After adding the first 8 strakes to both sides I turned my attention to adding the garboard planks (to both sides). In the two photos below you will note that I have cut the stern end of these strakes a tad short of the stern post which is intentional as this will aid the sanding process to ensure the second planking (when added) sits flush with the stern post. I have found it necessary to add one dropper strake (bow) and three stealers strakes (stern). I have attached a couple of photos of these strakes. Dropper Strake Stealer Strake I have completed the first planking on the left-hand side, as can be seen below I am very pleased with how the stern area is looking, and if you look closely the three stealers can be seen. The bow area looks Ok, you may notice in the following photo I have brushed in some diluted wood filler in the gaps. As I worked on the bow area I got a better understanding of the nature of the lateral bend and why it is necessary, I also (eventually) realised when adding the last few stakes that, in most cases I needed to add a bigger lateral bend to get a better neater fit. The starboard side first planking is almost complete and should be completed in the next couple of days.

Great work 👏

Progress is slow and steady with the first planking. I did take a couple of days off from the shipyard as I had 1000 piece jigsaw to do, as it was an XMAS present from my youngest son. In the first set of photos below I have added 4 strakes per side. I am also marking the position of the bulkheads on the strakes after the pins are removed. The next set of photos is a tutorial on how not to plank🤣. It works well for me however. I start the process by shaping the strake's bow edge. Next I mark the required taper for the bow section. After the taper has been cut the strake is test fitted and the central point for the lateral taper is marked. With the strake in the required position I add an alignment mark on the central bulkhead. When gluing the strake in place I like to work outwards from the centre. Next I look at how the strake looks at the stern and mark where I will add an anti-clockwise (for the left had side) twist to get a better fit. After holding the strake in some warm water for a minute or two it is clamped to the bench so the lateral bend can be set. I use a hairdryer on a hot air setting for a couple of minutes to dry the strake. The strake is then test fitted, and if necessary the bend is adjusted. With the stern section of the strake dampened the anti-clockwise twist is added. I do this by applying the twist manually with my hands. Wood glue is added to the various bulkheads and I also add some addition glue to the bow end of the strake. The plank is then positioned, using the central mark. Pins are then added moving outwards, equally from the central point. Any excess glue is wiped away as each pin is added. With the strake pinned in place a final check is made to check the contact with the bulkheads and to remove any remaining excess glue from the bulkheads beneath the strake.

This is something I might add to mine as your Square Tuck looks great.

You have a wonderful model which you must be very proud of. Great work.