Glenn-UK

Sad to see her go, but I had no room for her and happy that she has gone to a place to be displayed.

Many thanks, once I had managed to release the remaining bits of the damaged masts from the caps I was able to work methodically to redo the rigging. The hardest task was to remove the topgallant shrouds from the belaying points.

Goodbye To My Indy I was approached recently to see if I would be interested in selling my Indy. As I did not really have the space for her I was more than happy to let her go. There was not quite enough room in his transport when he came to pick the Indy and sadly the main and fore topgallant mast suffered damage, as can be seen in the photo below. I could have cried and thought a trip to the local tip was on the cards. He was still very keen to have the model so I set about repairing all the damage. I had to make and fit two new topgallant masts. Next I had to redo all the damaged rigging, such as the shrouds, jeers, lifts, braces, stays, back stays, etc. This was a nightmare to do due to the limited access. After a few days hard work the repairs were complete, and most people will be hard pressed to see the repair. The Captain looked impressed. Next I transferred the Indy to a transport shipping frame which should prevent lateral and longitudinal movement. The inner faces of the blocks were felt lined. The client then used a specialist transport company, called Lenspeed. They were fantastic, taking great care to load and adding additional damping and strapping to prevent unwanted movement / vibration during the 2 hours drive. I was a bit sad to see her go, but very happy knowing she has gone to a good home where she will be appreciated.

I'm currently enjoying a cruise on the river Seine. Today I visited Honfleur, an old port town used by sailing ships, and discovered a wooden church built by the boat builders. As can be seen in the attached photo the church roof does look like the bottom hull of a ship.

Build Log Index Date: 09/10/2024 Time worked today: 4 hours. Total time spent on build: 116 hours. Topsail Mast Shrouds Part 2 Work has continued with the topsail mast shrouds. Following on from my last post the next stage in the process was to quickly check the shrouds with the lanyards to see if any further adjustments are necessary. I am using clamps to hold the strops in place for the time being. Happy with how they were looking I went ahead to glue the strops in place and then completed the shroud seizing. When I did the next test fit typically one of the shrouds did not look very good and I did notice its deadeye was upside down. Pity I did not notice a more fundamental problem. More on that later in this post. A block has to be fitted between the first and second shrouds which is used for the yard lifts. It is easier to fit these blocks before the shrouds are fitted. With the block placed between the first two shrouds it is held in position using my quad hands so the seizing could be added. When I started to complete the rigging I finally noticed that I had made a big school boy error when I added the deadeyes to the strops. The deadeyes were pretty firm in the strops, and I was unable to rotate some of them when I tried. I then tried to release the strops from the platform, using a bit of acetone to loosen the glue. I ended up damaging the platform edge when I finally released the first strop. Therefore I have decided to live this error for this model, as once built it will not be on display.

Build Log Index Date: 06/10/2024 Time worked today: 4 hours. Total time spent on build: 112 hours. Topsail Mast Shrouds Part 1 As is the norm over recent weeks I seem to be doing plenty of rework. Some is due to silly errors on my part and some due to my completed work could be done much better. This theme has continued with my work on the topsail mast shrouds. I started the process by cutting the required lengths for all the topsail shrouds and then proceeded to make the loops so they could be added to the topsail mast. So far so good! When I did a test fit of the shrouds, I noted two problems. When looking at the next photo the two problems are: a) The shrouds are sitting on top of each other, and it is not possible to position them side by side. The reason for this problem is the seizing thread used was to thick b) The seizing also needs to be positioned to just below the crosstrees as there not enough room between the crosstrees otherwise. The seizing was redone using thinner 0.1mm black thread and looks much better. With the seizing was positioned below the crosstrees it looks much better on the Indy. When adding the deadeyes to the shrouds I have opted to try a new method, which is detailed below. Step 1 – Make a loop and position in the quad hands. Step 2 – Use a simple crossover knot start to the seizing Step 3 – Loop the seizing thread around and make a second crossover knot Step 4 – Repeat step 3 once again. Step 5 – Adjust the position of the loop to the required position. Step 6 – Close the loop around the deadeye and adjust the position as necessary. Step 7 – Check position of the deadeyes are level using the quad hands. Step 8 – After a test fit on the Adder to check the deadeyes are in the right position and look level with each other add the additional seizing. Note: I did test fit the lanyards to check the deadeye positions were OK. I will add more photos when I am ready to add the lanyards.

Thanks for the info Chris. I am planning to buy Harpy VM/17/XL option when it is becomes available. Glenn-UK

Part of the fun is making repairs when breaking bits😁

Build Log Index Date: 02/10/2024 Time worked today: 6 hour. Total time spent on build: 108 hours. Main Mast Stays, Topsail Masts and Jibboom Guys It has been an eventful two days. I thought I had completed adding the main mast stay and preventor stay and took a photo to show the progress. The next two photos shows the deadeye lanyard rigging for the main stay and main preventor stay. On closer examination I noted that I had made a couple of errors. The preventor stay should wrap around the top of the main mast, as indicated by the yellow arrow in the next photo. If you look closely, as indicated by the blue arrow, you will see I failed to do this. The red arrow shows that one of the main mast shroud lines is twisted. It took me around 30 minutes to redo the preventor stay and twisted shroud line. Now that I was happy with my work the main and fore topsail masts were added. I decided to add the jibboom guy. This should have been a fairly straight forward task. The two guys (left and right sides) are secured to the end of the jibboom and then pass through eyelets located on top of the spritsail yard and are then secured to the hull via a double block arrangement. On completion of this task I took a photo and noted two errors which I have highlighted with arrows in the next photo. The most obvious error is I used the wrong seizing thread when securing the right-hand side guy to the end of the jibboom. You can see the difference in the next photo, green is OK, red is not OK. The double block arrangement is not symmetrical. The left-hand side is the better arrangement in my opinion. The right-hand side needs to be redone as the gap between the two block is to close in my opinion and compared with the left-hand side.

Build Log Index Date: 30/09/2024 Time worked today: 2 hour. Total time spent on build: 102 hours. Lower Mast Stays I thought I would share the method I am using to add the lower stays and preventor stays for the main and fore masts. I started this process by cutting 4 lengths of black thread for the fore and main stays and preventor stays. Each of these threads requires a deadeye to be added. I used my quad hands to complete this activity. In the first photo the deadeye and thread has been positioned in the quad hands. I am aware that the threads are fuzzy in the following photos but this will be sorted out. As per normal I am using a series of crossover knots for the seizing. In the next photo I have just started to add the first seizing. In the next photo the first seizing sequence has been completed. I used 5 lower and 5 upper crossover knots. The next two photos shows a stay with both completed seizing's. I am not a fan of the kit supplied mouse’s and I much prefer to make my own. This is quite easy to do. After determining the approximate position for the mouse I use a length of 0.25mm black thread to add a sequence of 5 lower and 5 upper crossover knots. This is shown in the photo below. Using the same thread I then add a series of 3 lower and 3 upper crossover knots centrally on top and then a single sequence centrally on top. The completed mouse is shown in the photo below. The complete mouse can slide up and down the stay if required. A loop is then added to stay using the crossover knot method. This ensures the seizing and loop size can be adjusted as necessary. The completed stay is then added to the mast so the position of the mouse and loop can be adjusted as necessary, as can be seen in the next photo. The lanyard is also test fitted to check if further adjustments are necessary. The final three photo’s shows the completed test fitting of the fore mast stay and preventor stay. I am happy with how they look.

Build Log Index Date: 25/09/2024 Time worked today: 4 hour. Total time spent on build: 100hours. Main and Fore Mast Shroud Deadeye The deadeyes have now been added to the fore and main mast lower shrouds and I am happy with how they look. For the most part my method for setting the position of the deadeyes to the same height within the shrouds worked very well. Photo of Starboard Side Fore Mast Lower Shroud Deadeyes Photo of Starboard Side Main Mast Lower Shroud Deadeyes Photo of Port Side Main Mast Lower Shroud Deadeyes. It will not take me long to add the shroud seizing’s. Despite thinking I have a full proof method for setting the shroud deadeyes to the same height something went awry with the two leading deadeyes as can be seen in the next photo. These were the last two deadeye fitted, some maybe I rushed the process. I reworked the offending two shroud deadeyes and I am now happy with how they look. It will not take me long to add the shroud seizing’s. Port Side Fore Mast Lower Shroud Deadeyes

Many thanks. My patience does get near to breaking point quite often. 🤣

Build Log Index Date: 25/09/2024 Time worked today: 2 hour. Total time spent on build: 96hours. Fore Shroud Deadeye Rework As reported in my last post I was not happy with how the first two fore shroud deadeyes looked, they were not set to the same height, even though the process detailed in my last post usually worked. After carefully unpicking the various seizing threads I started the process once again, with a slight refinement. Using the same jig to determine the deadeye position in the shroud line I inserted the seizing thread to all 4 shroud lines and checked they were all at the same level. The next photo shows the seizing threads in position. With the first two deadeyes inserted in the shrouds the level of the deadeyes was checked. This time around I was much happy with how they look. Confident that the process was working the remaining deadeyes were added to their respective shrouds and the seizing added. As can be seen in the next photo the deadeyes are reasonably level with each other. The lanyards still need a bit of tiding up however. I will now repeat this process for the other shroud lines.

Build Log Index Date: 23/09/2024 Time worked today: 1 hour. Total time spent on build: 94hours. Shroud Deadeye Installation Method and Failure When I tackle a task which has a repetitive nature I like to find a method that will yield constant results. Adding deadeyes to the shrouds is one such process especially as I like to ensure the deadeyes are all set to the same height. I came up with a method which helped me to set the shroud deadeye to the same height using a simple jig which I have used on several of my last builds with great success. It is a simple process, using a simple jig, and should ensure all the deadeyes are set to the same height. There are two prongs which are used to locate the jig in channel deadeye. There are two sets of guide pins on the jig which are used to keep the shroud in place. There is a hole near the top of the jig which is used as the point where the deadeye seizing will start. The photo below shows the jig in place. The shroud has been placed between the top and bottom guides and I have used a spring clamp to provide a little bit of tension to the shroud. The seizing thread, with the aid of a needle, is then passed though shroud and then through the hole in the jig. This reason for this is to ensure the seizing is set to the same place on each shroud line. In the photo below the seizing thread has been added. A loop for the deadeye is formed in the shroud which is then held in the quad hands so the seizing can be added, as can be seen in the next two photos. With the shroud still held in the deadeyes the seizing’s above the deadeye are added. In the photo below the first seizing has been added. I did add another seizing whilst the shroud was held in the quad hands. I then repeated the process for the second shroud. As can be seen in the final photo my tried and trusted method has clearly failed spectacularly this time around. I have no explanation why there is such a discrepancy between the height of the first shroud pair. I will remove the deadeyes from these two shrouds and start again. I am also going to think if I can refine the process to prevent such a error occurring.

Build Log Index Date: 21/09/2024 Time worked today: 1 hour. Total time spent on build: 93hours. Hammock Cranes I forgot to add the following photo showing the bowsprit, jibboom and spritsail yard I realised I had not added the hammock cranes to the hull and it is much easier to install these before I start work on the shrouds. There are 16 hammock cranes installed each side. I test fitted each crane before they were glued in place. I used wood glue. Once they were all fitted I added the rigging. I have made the fore and main mast shroud pairs and I am now ready to start work in rigging these.

Build Log Index Date: 19/09/2024 Time worked today: 2 hours. Total time spent on build: 92hours. Bowsprit Installation I have now started the rigging phase of the build. I started by adding and securing the jibboom and spritsail yard to the bowsprit. Once that was done the bowsprit assembly was added to the hull. The first rigging task was to add the gammoning. Next I rigged the spritsail yard lifts. The next photo shows the spritsail yard tye blocking rigging. I made sure the spritsail yard lifts and tyes rigging was fed through the bowsprit fairlead before they were belayed. The second photo shows the belaying of the spritsail tye to a belaying pin. The final photo shows the belaying of the spritsail yard lifts.

Build Log Index Date: 18/09/2024 Time worked today: 4 hours. Total time spent on build: 90 hours. Yard and Bowsprit Manufacture Part 4 I have now completed all the work related to making the yards and booms. The first two photos show the spritsail yard which has been temporarily pinned to the bowsprit. The various deadeyes to the bowsprit will be added later today. The next two photos show the various yards and booms temporarily pinned to the main, main topsail and main topgallant masts. The final photo show the various yards temporarily pinned to the fore, fore topsail and fore topgallant masts.

Build Log Index Date: 15/09/2024 Time worked today: 4 hours. Total time spent on build: 86 hours. Yard and Bowsprit Manufacture Part 3 Work is still progressing slowly and steadily with making all the various yards. I have always found this aspect of the build process takes a great deal of time. All work is now complete on the spritsail yard, the fore & main topsail masts, the fore & main topgallant yards, Jibboom and the main &driver booms. I only have to add the PE parts, the various blocks / deadeyes and footropes to the bowsprit and fore & main lower yards which I hope will be completed in the next day or two. The following photo shows all the fore & main mast yards, prior to the final painting phase, and before completion of the lower yards. I decided to add the planking to the hexagonal section of the main and fore lower yards as I think this look much better. The next photo shows the completed spritsail, after painting. I might have to revisit one of the outer footropes and there are not as even as I would like (yellow arrows) The next photo shows the completed fore and main topsail yards. The final photo of this post shows fore and main topgallant yards.

Build Log Index Date: 12/09/2024 Time worked today: 4 hours. Total time spent on build: 82 hours. Yard and Bowsprit Manufacture Part 2 Work is progressing slowly and steadily on making the various yards. It is taking me some time to seize all the various blocks required to be added to the yards. It also taking me time to add the footropes. The following is a description of how I added the footropes to the topgallant yards. This first step was to add the footropes to the mid section of the yard. After creating a loop in one end of the two lengths of thread they were positioned on the yard and the seizing was then adjusted to close the loop. Next a loop was formed in the free end of the first thread. My quad hands were used for this. The two photo’s below shows the before and after of this stage. After the loop has been added to the end of the yard the position of the seizing was adjusted. I have found the best position for the seizing is as shown below. The final task was to coat the footrope loops with diluted pva glue. The completed topgallant yards. The blocks have been added to the driver and main boom, as shown in the following photo. The final photo shows the work in progress of the spritsail yard. All the blocks have been seized and are ready to be added. The footropes have been added to one end and the other ends are ready to be added, once the footrope stirrups have been added.

Hello Bob Many thanks for the mention, your DOK looks fantastic. Glenn

Hello Bob Glad you are finding my posts are helpful. My methods might not be the best way to do things but they work well for me. Thanks Glenn

Build Log Index Date: 10/09/2024 Time worked today: 4 hours. Total time spent on build: 78 hours. Yard and Bowsprit Manufacture Part 1 I am currently making all the yards, booms and bowsprit. There are several stages involved with this task. Stage 1 – Tapering There are several yards, booms and bowsprit to make. I started this process by cutting the various dowels to slightly longer than the required lengths. It was then a case of applying the required tapers to each dowel. I used my Proxxon mini lathe. Once the tapering was completed, they were trimmed to the correct length. A check was made that the various PE Stunsail Boom Irons and Stunsail Boom Straps were a good fit at the required locations. The Bowsprit and Jibboom, the end cap was test fitted. The Main and Driver Booms The Spritsail Yard Main and Fore Topgallant Yards Main and Fore Topsail Yards and Stunsails Main and Fore Yards and Stunsails Stage 2 – Adding Octagonal Mid Sections The central sections of the fore and main lower and topsail yards is octagonal. I used a needle file for this. Stage 3 – Adding the Cleats, Cradles and Bees The various wooden cleats, cradles and bees were added, secured with wood glue. Stage 4 – Preparing the PE Parts There are a number of PE parts required to added. After collecting the various PE parts they were chemically blackened as followed: a) Soak the PE parts in acetone for a few minutes b) Soak in soapy warm water for a few minutes c) Rinse and return to acetone solution for a few minutes d) Rinse and dry. e) Place in some burnishing fluid (AK Interactive Metal) f) Remove and dry. Stage 5 Add PE Parts I am currently in the process of completing this task. The photo below shows the Jibboom, Driver Boom, Main Boom and Spritsail Yard with the PE parts added. The spritsail yard footrope stirrups and two end eyebolts have not been glued in place but will when the footrope is to be added. Once all the PE parts have been added the final three stages are: Stage 6 – Painting Stage 7 – Add blocks Stage 8 – Add footropes

Build Log Index Date: 07/09/2024 Time worked today: 2 hours. Total time spent on build: 74 hours. Main and Fore Topsail Mast Manufacture There are some different aspects with regards to shaping the main and fore topsail masts. I thought I would document the process I used to complete this task. The base material for the two topsail masts are lengths of 5mm dowel. The top section of each mast needs to be squared to 2.7mm x 2.7mm. I started by flattening the first side using a craft knife and then I used a combination of a file and sanding stick until the width had been reduced to 3.85mm. I repeated this process on the opposite side until the width had been reduced to 2.7mm. I then repeated this process on the two other sides to create the required 2.7 x 2.7mm square and the upper platform was test fitted. The next section was to create the tapered section below the square section. I used a craft knife and then a combination of a file and sanding stick for this. I was not overly concerned about the untidy bottom section of this as this will be sorted when the next part of the dowel is tapered. After checking the upper and lower dimension of the taper section with a vernier gauge the lower end cap was checked to ensure it would pass over the tapered section. The next task was to taper the lower section of the topsail mast from 3mm at the top down to 4mm at the bottom. I used my Proxxon mini lathe for this task. I have attached a before and after photo. The bottom section of the dowel is not tapered as this will be squared off. The upper section of the tapered topsail mast. Next a photo showing the lower end cap can be passed down the topsail mast. The lower section of the topsail mast needs to be squared to a 4mm x 4mm dimension. I used a sanding stick for this task. A check was made that the lower square section would pass though the opening in the lower platform. The very top section of the mast was then rounded off so the upper end cap would fit. The hole for the FID was also added at this stage. Once that was done 2 coats of black paint was brushed on, after a coat of varnish had been applied. The two topsail masts were then test fitted. Next up will be to make the main and fore topgallant masts and the bowsprit.

Build Log Index Date: 04/09/2024 Time worked today: 2 hours. Total time spent on build: 72 hours. Main and Fore Mast Platform Work The two lower platforms have now been painted black. 2 coats of paint were applied after a coat of varnish had been brushed on. The foremast lower platform requires 6 x 3mm single blocks to be fitted, each secured via an eyelet. It takes me approx. 10 minutes to add a block to an eyebolt to a block, using the following method. a) A length of 0.5mm black thread is seized around the block using Semperfli fly tying Spyder thread. 6 lower and upper crossover knots were used for the seizing. b) Once the block was seized one of the free ends of the 0.5mm is removed. c) An eyebolt is then fed through the remaining free end of the 0.5mm black thread. d) With the eyebolt in the required orientation a second layer of seizing is added using Semperfli fly tying spyder thread. e) The excess 0.5mm black thread is then removed. I have added the block located on the main mast, located below the lower platform. It includes a 500mm length of 0.1mm natural thread. I have added the deadeye and block located on the fore mast, located below the lower platform. I have now started work on making the top and topgallant masts.

Hello Dan I am sure you will really enjoy building the DOK. It is a very decorative looking boat which really attracted me to her. Adding crows feet is nowhere as bad as you think it will be once you have worked out the sequence. Enjoy the break. Glenn (UK)