Glenn-UK

Great information, looking like an excellent build so far.

My aim is to continue to show the errors of my ways with this build so others do not follow in my footsteps, to try out ideas both good and bad and not to worry too much with how this model turns out. I am enjoying the build and fully accepting my build standard it is not a very good example of a brilliant design or what the kit deserves. I have learnt so much with the mistakes made and once the next batch is released I can take my time to build a much better model.

All windows, frames and vertical columns have now been fitted to the quarter galleries and stern fascia. I have also fitted the first stern fascia rail. I used acrylic varnish to secure the clear window panes and the white window frame to the hull assembly. I then used super phatic glue for the vertical columns and rail. I used a few clamps and tape to hold the rail in place as the glue cured due to the slight curve of the stern fascia. The stern fascia vertical column assembly did not require any clamps as the super phatic glue grabbed and held the part in place afterjust a few seconds. This is a picture of the right-hand quarter gallery. I added the vertical columns after the window frames, as per the build instructions which was much better than the method I used on the left hand side where I fitted the vertical columns before the window frames. The excess whie paint on the left hand window frame will be cleaned up. This is a picture of the current state of play with the stern fascia, with clamps and tape holding the first rail in place. There will be a bit of work touching up the paint and using filler to compensate for the misalignment issued reported some time ago on the stern counter patterns. The first 10 cannons have been built so I thought I would take a picture with them positioned on the deck, and the all seem to sit perfectly in their respective gun ports. The remaining parts for the other 10 cannons have all been painted so when I have a spare couple of hours they will be built. Work will continue over the next few days with adding more detail to the quarter galleries and stern fascia.

I have started work on adding the windows to the quarter galleries and stern fascia. This will take me a few days to complete the build steps 301 to 319 so I thought I would provide a brief description of the start, working on left-hand quarter gallery. The 3 off laser cut clear windows did need filing before they would fit. Once I was happy with the fit I used acrylic varnish to secure the window panes in the frames. The vertical columns were cleaned in acetone and soapy water and then painted gold. I used super phatic glue to secure them to the quarter gallery. I decided to add these before the white window frames as I was waiting for the white paint to dry. This turned out to be a mistake as I ended up with two misaligned vertical columns. The external window frames were primed and then painted white. Once again I used the acrylic varnish to secure the frames to the quarter galleries. As can be seen in the photo below the two vertical columns at either end are both slightly misaligned in both the vertical and horizontal planes. I could reposition them, but as this is now a prototype build I might just leave them as fitted. The stern fascia panel has been painted red and blue are are now ready for the various clear window panes, window frames and decorations to be installed. I have been painting some of the PE parts gold so they are ready to be installed after the window panes have been fitted. The external window frames have not been painted white which will be my next task. As I was waiting between some of paint drying time I have continued to build more cannons, which will make 10 built in total. In the photo below I have taped the side pieces so the cannon caps can be painted black. I'm also using tape to keep the side pieces upright during this painting process.

This is approach I said I would take when I start the next Sphinx, thanks for testing it out, looks the way to go in this respect.

HULL WORK BOW GRATINGS BUILD MANUAL STEPS 276 - 300 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife Titebond Sanding sticks and files Clamps Black paint Gathering the materials required 42, 43, 44, 81 (x2), 79, 80, 82 (x2), 83 (x2),160, 161, 171, 172, 173, 174, 291, 292, 384 (x2), 432 (x4), 449, 450 (x2), Assembly Process I am so glad this is a prototype build as I can do this section so much better next time around. The various parts were located on the different sheets and removed. A trial fit of the three off bow v-patterns with the gammoning knee on the stem post seemed to indicate everything was a reasonable fit. Using a file the slots on the v-patterns were bevelled, aiming for a 45 degree angle as per the build manual recommendation. The v-patterns were then glued in place. The contact area of the v-patterns, where the lower bow grating is located, were also slightly bevelled. The assembly was then dry fitted to the stem post so the lower bow grating pattern could be positioned and glued in place. I did use so clamps to hold the grating in place. The assembly was once again removed. To fill in time as the glue cures I started work on building the remaining 19 cannons. As can be seen in the photo below I have started to build 3 cannons, with the first one there for reference. As I was bevelling the joint edge of the upper bow grating the pattern split but thankfully it will not be that noticeable. I also bevelled the contact edge of the v-pattern before the grating was glued in place. The excess v-pattern edges were sanded, and the lower edges were also shaped as per the requirements stated in the build manual. The complete bow grating assembly was then glued in place. The three completed cannons, they are very shiny as then have just been brushed with varnish so are still very wet. Next the bow hair brackets and bow lower rails were glued to the stem post followed by the bow cheeks and hawse bolsters. The cheeks and bolsters required very little bevelling to ensure a good fit the hull. The hawser holes were then enlarged to 4mm, I think this would have been better done earlier on in the build process due to the bow grating. The hawser bolster position was checked. I used a round file to slightly enlarge the parts the sits under the hawser holes. I also sanded the bottom edge. Once I was happy with the fit the part was glued in place. The two wash cants were shaped to produce a nice bevel and glued in place. The hawser area was then painted black, and the paint is still very wet in the photo below Bow lower rails were test fitted. I found it necessary to trim a little bit for a good fit. The bow grating area was completed with the addition of the V-shaped head rail patterns All I need to do now is paint the blue section of the stem post, as indicated in the build manual.

It is good to get to this stage and it looks like you have done a really good job. I did sort though the planks and then grouped them in batches based on the thickness, ranging from 0.8 to 1.15mm and I took note of the depth variations along each plank. I still ended up with ridges and dips🤣

There are vertical rails between the hortizontal mouldings which provide a full contact area and also lets the builder know where they are to be positioned

The knees are glued to the top of the channels and the vertical rails on the hull. I suppose it was done that way to support the channels when the shroud lines are tensioned.

HULL WORK FITTING THE CHANNELS BUILD MANUAL STEPS 262 – 275 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife Titebond and CA gel glue Brass pins Varnish Black paint Micro drill Gathering the materials required 373 – 376 (x2), 377 - 381 Assembly Process The channels and channel knees were coated with a thin coat of varnish and then the channels had two coats of black paint. I did sand the sheet with a 1000 grit sandpaper before I applied the varnish. Photo of the channel sheet in the process of being painted The channel parts were then removed from the sheet. Using a 0.6mm micro drill a series of holes were drilled using the guidelines provided and cut off brass puns were inserted with a touch a ca gel. Photo of the mizzen channel ready to be installed. I did test fit the eyebolt slots on each channel also Each channel was then test fitted to the hull and where necessary the micro drill was run through the locating holes on the hull to provide a bit more depth. I found it better to fit each channel and their associated knees at the same time. The edges of the channels were touched up with black paint to complete the task. Next I will start work on the bow grating assembly. Photo of the main mast channels and knees installed Photo of the fore mast channels and knees installed My Sphinx looking like the photo shown in step 275 of the build manual And a side on view for good measure

Very nice job so far

Thanks, as this is now a prototype build I will probably leave as is. When I start the next one I aim to fill all the gaps

Good luck with your second planking, fingers crossed for a fab unpainted finish

Better to paint with a brush and build up the coats gradually as I tend to use too much when spraying from a tin

The better I can get this one the better the 2nd one will turn out

HULL WORK RUDDER ASSEMBLY BUILD MANUAL STEPS 250 – 261 PLAN SHEET 14 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife Super phatic glue Acetone & soapy water Brass pins White and black paint Chemical blackener Clamps Varnish Micro drill Gathering the materials required 448, 194, 195, PE-31-40 (x2), PE153, PE-156 (x5) Assembly Process The two patterns were glued to the rudder, clamps were used to hold the patterns in place as the glue cured. Pins were used to ensure the patterns were correctly aligned. Using super phatic glue the various pintle strips were added to the rudder assembly, brass pins were used to ensure they were correctly aligned. Once the glue had cured the laser char was removed from the rudder edges. The various photo etch parts were cleaned, starting with a soak in acetone followed by hot soapy water. The top two pintle strips, the 5 x rudder gudgeon & pintles and the rudder spectacle plate were then chemically blackened. The PE parts are ready for cleaning The brass pins were trimmed to approx. 2 to 3mm long, and then using my round nose pliers they were added to the rudder assembly. As the brass pins were a tight fit I did not use any adhesive. The rudder assembly was then coated with thin coat of varnish. Once the varnish had dried the rudder was taped so the part below the water line could be painted white. I have managed to lose all the etched lines, too much paint added! After painting the lower section of the rudder white the upper part of the rudder was taped so the black bands could be painted. Using a micro drill the holes were drilled in the rudder and the stern post, using the guides provided. The rudder spectacle plate and rudder gudgeon & pintles were then added to the rudder assembly. The rudder assembly was then added to the hull and I was please to see how well the rudder lined up. All that is left to do is to add the rudder brace strips to the hull.

It looks very good.

I think bit I you are on about is different to the bit I thought it was.

From what I can see from the build log and manual photos I think it was just sanded smooth, blended and painted black with the gunwales. Your solution looks good also.

HULL WORK HULL PLATES BUILD MANUAL STEPS 262 - 264 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife Super phatic glue Acetone & soapy water Brass pins Clamps Varnish Gathering the materials required PE-27 (x2), PE-28 (x2) Assembly Process I am currently working on the rudder assembly, which is currently in the painting phase and should be ready to be installed tomorrow. I will post details of my rudder assembly once complete. The two prow horseshoe plates and two stern fishplates were cleaned, first in a solution of acetone and then in some soapy water. For this prototype build I opted not to paint the plates copper, but I might paint them later on if I feel so inclined to do so. Each plate was fitted in the same way, which was to apply a thin coat of super phatic glue to the hull area and to then position the plate, using brass pins to ensure then were correctly aligned. With the plate in place two clamps were used to hold the plate in the place and the brass pins were then removed to avoid them being glued in place. Once the glue had cured the clamps were removed. 30 x brass pins were then trimmed to approx. 2 to 3mm in length. Using my round nose pliers the brass pin were carefully inserted into the holes in the plates. I did not use any glue when pushing the pins in as they were all a nice tight fit and would be held in place once a coat of varnish had been added to finish task. The stern fishplate. You can see the hull is not totally smooth, but it is ok for this prototype build. The bow horseshow plate. Not a great joint between stem post and keel.

HULL WORK ADDING RAILS BUILD MANUAL STEPS 233 - 249 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife Waterline marker Wood filler Titebond original Red, blue, and black paints Varnish Tape Gathering the materials required 140, 141,142, 143, 144, 145, 146, 147, 148 (x4), 383 (x2) Assembly Process The two sheer and waist patterns had been soaked in hot water and then clamped to the hull and left to dry overnight. I then moved on to painting the upper patterns red, blue and black as required. The various rail patterns were clamped in place to check the painting for the red and blue sections. In hindsight, and certainly when I get around to this stage on the next build, I will use some tape to get better lines as it looks a tad messy now. It can be tidied. I brushed some glue on the back of the various rail patterns and fixed them to the hull, using clamps. Take great care with these patterns as they are very fragile. The final task was to add the 4 side fender patterns and 2 chess tree patterns to the rails. This picture show the rails dry fitted after the painting phase A close up of the messy stern area This dry fit of the rails photo shows my bad line painting, without tape. The rails have been glued and clamped in the photo below The completed rails, noting I have not cut away the rails from the gun ports Bow area The stern area Midships with fenders and cross tree patterns fitted to the rails. Gun ports still need to be cleared of rail Another stern picture

James indeed did the heavy lifting and producing a stunning model and brilliant manual

HULL WORK PAINTING HULL BUILD MANUAL STEPS 229 - 232 LINK TO MY BUILD LOG INDEX Tools Used Craft knife Waterline marker Wood filler Sandpaper (110 and 400 grit) Titebond original Varnish Tape Gathering the materials required No parts required Assembly Process After I had added the waterline I applied plenty of tape to the hull, replicating the picture shown on step 230 of the build manual. Using the same Matt Super white paint as shown in the picture for step 231 in the build manual I sprayed a thin coat on the exposed hull. I then spent a lot of time sanding, then applying filler (diluted with water and titebond) to fill any dips and then sanding the filled area smooth. This process was repeated several times. Once I was happy with how the hull was looking I removed the tape from the stem, keel and stern posts below the waterline. A thin coat of varnish was applied to the bare wood areas and the hull was then sprayed a couple more times with the matt super white paint. Due to the dust cloud in the shipyard during the process I did not risk taking pictures. OK I simply forgot to take some pictures😇. As can be seen in the photo below I have actually done a bit more work which will be covered in my next post.

Looking good, great progress

It is important to get the position of the lower counter pattern correct. I set mine a bit too low, your looks well positioned which is good. When I do this stage again I will dry fit the parts of the quarter gallery so I know where the quarter gallery berthing pattern will be positioned. I will then dry fit the upper counter pattern and stern fascia patterns as the berthing pattern needs to be aligned with the upper counter pattern and the stern fascial pattern needs to be 2mm above the transom. When this has been checked the correct position of the lower counter pattern will be known.