Glenn-UK
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I have now completed the hull painting task. The hull looks smooth and sleek and (almost) fit for a Duchess. When I removed the tape there was a small bit of leakage around the stern and bow area. Using some acetone and warm soapy water applied with some cotton bud sticks I was able to remove the excess without too much difficulty. Good job I applied a polyurethane varnish coat above the water line before I started painting. I will leave the paint to fully dry for 24 hours before I neaten the painted edge line (if needed) and apply the clear polyurethane matt varnish finish. I am happy with the end result, it is by no means perfect but is good enough for me. Once the deck features, hull decorations, masts and rigging has been added no one will inspect the hull paint job that closely anyway.
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I have continued with applying coats of white paint below the water line today. In between coats I have been giving the hull a light sand and I have continued to apply filler where needed. The hull is looking (and feeling) smooth, but it is not as smooth as Jim's prototype build. I will give the hull a few more coats light coats of paint tomorrow before removing the tape for the big reveal! I have applied some diluted filler to the stern area, hence the brown tinge on the photo below Looks smooth and blemish free midships. The bow area is not perfect but overall it looks reasonable OK The stern area has been the most difficult area to get smooth, as can be seen below
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Great work, I agree with Jim the polyurethane varnish sorted out any minor colour match issues.
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The Duchess is now in the paint shop. I decided to paint the hull white before adding the rails and wales. I have applied plenty of tape to the hull (above the water line) and I have also protected the deck areas. In the picture below the hull has had one coat of paint. This is going to take time to complete as I will have to wait for the paint to dry before sanding, filling and applying further coats. Fingers crossed there will not be any leakage I have sanded, filled and applied a 2nd coat of paint and it is starting to look better but does now require another application of diluted filler in a couple of areas, mainly around the stern post area.
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A day for filling in time while I continue wait for some essential items to be delivered. I started by soaking the 4 wales (2 per side) in hot water for 30 mins and they were then clamped to the hull so they can retain the required bend once they have fully dried out. Next I checked the fitting of the following deck items which seated in their various deck openings without any problem. I also removed the laser char from all the visible surfaces which was quite time consuming. a) Gallows and Main Mast Bits b) Ship’s Bell Standard, Head Stock and Belfry Fascia c) Bowsprit Bitts d) Windlass (Bitts and Front Pattern) The polyurethane varnish was finally delivered this afternoon so I plan to apply to this to decks (fore and aft) and Bulwarks (inner and outer) tomorrow morning and they will then be left to dry for 24 hours. Once dried I can apply the blue and red paint to the outer bulwark patterns.
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The upper rail was soaked and clamped to the hull last night without any problems. I have now soaked and clamped the lower main rail. Bent upper main rail and catheads Lower Main Rail Clamped I have received the hull primer today, I'm just waiting for the polyethene varnish which has been dispatched before I can start painting the hull. This primer will also provide the final white finish. I have made a start with the rudder assembly. When I tried a test fitting I noted a problem with the fitting as the assembly would not fit through the lower stern counter. This will require a bit of work to open up the gap. I am pleased I have discovered this before I had painted the stern counters. The rudder will not fit through the stern counter hole I have also made a start on the mizzen bitt assembly. I have removed the char from the visible areas and I have also rounded the top edges. When I tried fitting the mizzen mast bits in the aft deck cut outs the two leading bitts fitted in without any problems. The two aft bitts are sitting proud due to the bulkhead which is sat underneath. I have two options. I could trim the excess material so they sit flush, noting I will have to remove the same amount of material from each bitt. Alternatively I could try to remove some of the bulkhead by drilling down 2 or 3 mm and then squaring the hole using a craft knife, sandpaper and files. I am more inclined to trimming the bitts as this is an easier option and will not cause damage to the aft deck. The aft bitts are sitting proud The bulkhead can be seen in the picture below
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This afternoon I decided to assembly the spiral staircase. This is a very nice looking staircase and just like the binnacle it was a straightforward assembly task and does not require any detailed explanation of my build method, see pictures below. Parts ready for assembly. I did number the parts in size order. Assembled Spiral Staircase Dry Fit of Spiral Staircase - bottom tab has been located in lower deck slot but the top does not sit flush with hatch opening unsupported Glue will be used to ensure the staircase is joined to the hatch opening when fitted, below the ladder is held in the correct position (dry fit)
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Great start
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Great to see another build, great work so far.
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Hi Jim Thanks for your information. I had run out of acetone, but I have a new supply on order which should arrive later this week.
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I am currently waiting for delivery of some products, such as the polyethene matt varnish which is due for delivery this week I pondered what to do. I thought I would start this post with a picture of the fore and aft decks. Firstly I removed the various patterns from the pear wood sheets and I did dry fit these parts. I plan to soak the rail patterns in hot water later today so they can be clamped to the hull to dry overnight. When removing the wales I noted that the only the binnacle parts remained on the pear wood sheet. Therefore I decided to remove these parts so I could assemble these deck item. This turned out to out to be a fun task. It does not really require a detailed explanation of my build method but I have attached a set of photo's of the various stages. I thought I would replicate the photo in the build manual in the next photo I then decided to see how the stern fascia panel would fit. It seemed to be a reasonably good fit but it would not sit flush with the upper stern counter pattern. The problem was quickly solved by adding a chamfer to the lower edge. There is a bit of damage to the upper stern counter (top right corner) which I did when removing some of the excess planking material. This is is not a big issue as it can be filled before the blue paint is applied.
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I have a question regarding blackening PE parts. I am planning to use AK Interactive Brass Photoetch Burnishing to blacken some parts, such as the eyebolts, hooks, etc. I am interested to know what method should be used to clean the PE parts before the application of the AK product. For example should I clean as follows: a) Using a toothbrush clean the parts with soapy warm water to remove any grease b) Once cleaned with soapy water brush the parts with white vinegar. c) Finally clean the parts with clean water to remove all traces of the white vinegar d) Apply the AK product to blacken, probably two applications will probably be required to get the best result.
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Hi Chris I have ordered Ronseal Ultra Tough polyethene matt finish varnish.
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Thanks for your support, it is greatly appreciated. It is starting to look nice. I'm looking forward to adding the deck features in the next week or two which is when the model comes to life for me.
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Thanks for the info. I live in a small town, with a 50 min drive to the better equipped / stocked stores in Hull, York or Middlesbrough.
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The fore and aft decks have now been glued in place. I dry fitted the inner bulwarks in place to ensure the deck stayed in place as the glue gripped and cured. I also used the Oval Side Port Locator plugs to test the alignment, as can be seen in the photo below. I checked the fit of the inner bulwark patterns which need a minimal amount of sanding at both ends. My build seems to have a slight misalignment issue on the port side around the midships and towards the stern as I found it necessary to sand the bottom edge of the fore inner bulwark in order for it to align up with the final 2 (stern) gun port openings. I also noted a similar issue with the aft post side inner bulwark. I also checked and ensured I could push a brass pin through the small holes around the gun ports and window frames. The bulwarks were then glued into place. The Oval Side Port Locator plugs were used to ensure the fore inner bulwarks were correctly positioned. I used plenty of clamps to hold the patterns in place. Once the glue has fully cured there will be a tiny bit of sanding required to ensure the top edges of the inner, middle and outer bulwarks are all flush with each other. In discussion with Jim Hatch I have opted to apply a polyethene varnish to the decks and inner & outer bulwarks. It may take a couple of days before I receive the delivery of this varnish, which was not available in my local DIY stores (Screwfix and B&Q).
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Nice work, the precision of the design is impressive
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It is a nice wood to work with also
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Stage: Hull Construction Build instructions: 87 - 91 Task: Stern 2nd Planking Parts: N/A Time Spent: 3 hours Status: Complete Build Notes: I applied filler below the water line and then proceeded to sand it back, just leaving filler in the depressions. It looks nice and smooth for the most part, but it will need a little bit more work once I have applied the primer coats to the entire hull below the waterline. I then removed the temporary beams and I also twisted off the MDF bulkhead tabs above the decks. Using my craft knife, sanding stick and sandpaper I was able to remove the wood remnants. The inner bulwarks needed a little bit of sanding to remove some glue remnants from the bulkhead tab areas. I then decided to test fit both the fore and aft decks. They both fitted perfectly but I did note that one hole location in the Upper/Poop ply deck did need to be opened up a little, as mentioned in the instructions. The two Inner Bulwark Patterns (193, 194) were soaked in hot water for about 25 mins and then were clamped in place and will be left to dry overnight. I will, if they need, trim them once they have fully dried out. I also checked the fitting of the rear Inner Bulwark Patterns (195) with the aft deck in place and they seemed to be a good fit. Once the decks and Inner Bulwark Patterns have been glued in place I will move on to painting the outer bulwark patterns blue and red.
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Great information and advice
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Stage: Hull Construction Build instructions: 85 & 86 Task: Stern 2nd Planking Parts: N/A Time Spent: 24 hours Status: Complete Build Notes: I have finally completed the 2nd planking. It did not turn out to be neat and tidy as Jim’s pre-production model, but it is not too bad. The rabbet was a great help with the planking. I marked the position of the waterline using my Amati tool and then, using some 1mm tape followed the marked line and then double checked the waterline position using Amati tool and plan drawing. I plan to apply filler (Ronseal RSLMPWFN100G 100g Multi-Purpose Natural Wood Filler) below the water line and sand to get a flat even surface. Once I am happy that the lower hull is smooth I can proceed with the next phase of the build which is to remove the temporary beams, pre bend the Inner Bulwark Patterns (193, 194), fit the Fore and Aft Deck Patterns and fit all of the Inner Bulwark Patterns (193, 194 & 195).
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Just a quick update. I took a couple off days of the build over the weekend to sort some other stuff out so I actually stated the 2nd planking on the port side on Monday (I have already completed the starboard side). I decided to use a two prong attack planking both down toward the keel and also up toward the bulwarks. This seems to be working very nicely and it has speeded up the progress (given I am using wood glue). I am matching the bow planking terminations with the starboard side (almost). Given the progress I have made over the last two days I expect to complete the 2nd planking in the next couple of days.
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Stage: Hull Construction Build instructions: 85 Task: Stern 2nd Planking Parts: N.A Time Spent: 14 hours Status: in progress, port side complete Build Notes: I have continued with the 2nd planking of the starboard side which is now complete and ready for sanding and filling. As per the instructions I have been working from the bulwarks down toward the keel tapering the planks at the bow as necessary. I was also doing my best to tuck the stern planks under the lower stern counter pattern as I went along and I think out has turned out OK, noting this area will be covered up when the lower stern rail (207) is fitted later on in the build. Eventually I reached a point when next plank could not be tapered to terminate at the bow rabbet. As with the 1st planking, I decided to fit a full plank from the bow and allowed it to follow it natural path. At the widest point I set the infill gap to exactly 6 plank widths. With this middle central plank in place I then added two further planks above it. I then turned my attention to the keel rabbet and decided to fit the first three planks. I must admit it was a bit fiddly trying to get the first plank in position but once it had been cut, shaped and bent it ended up being a really good fit. I found it unnecessarily difficult to trim the plank to the right length to sit flush with the stern post therefore after the 2nd keel plank was fitted I decided it would be easier to remove the stern post and to refit once the all the planks had been fitted and been trimmed It also means that it will be easier to sand the planks, if required, so that they sit flush with the stern post . See the pictures below. I then filled in the gap in the middle of the hull. This turned out to be a straightforward enjoyable task Finally, working from the keel upwards I filled in the low gap. As planks were terminating at the stern post. I was ensuring any gaps left for infill steelers were an exact plank width. I decided it was not that important how neat the planking looked below the water line as it was going to be sanded, filled and primed so that it became a smooth even surface for the final coat(s) of white paint.
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