Glenn-UK
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Today I started work in earnest on the bowsprit. I used my 1mm and 2mm tape to mark the edge and the angle for the cut for the bowsprit cap (part 126) and to indicate the correct positions of the various parts, see the two photos below. Some items need to be fitted to the side(s). As the material for the bowsprit is a 6mm dowel I used a 3mm wide piece of wood to mark the correct position as shown in the photo below which was taken when marking the position of the bowsprit bees. The break in the tap edge tape is the 0.8mm hole I had drilled for the jibboom saddle. The photo below shows the test fitting of the 2 off bowsprit bee's, jibboom saddle and bowsprit fairlead cleat. The parts were then removed and painted black. I have also drilled the holes for (and painted black) the 11 off bowsprit cleats. The bowsprit was tapered (using my mini lathe) so the bowsprit cap would fit. I have also started work on the jibboom. I started by drilling the 0.8mm hole and then tapering the jibboon (using my mini lathe) so the bowsprit cap and jibboom and flying jibboom bracket will fit. The final photo show the bowsprit and jibboom dry fitted to the boat.
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I have rigged cannons before, however this kit dies not include the parts for this task. Also I decided that once Speedy has been rigged the lack of rigging on the 4lb cannons would not overly distract from the final build. I would have probably rigged the cannons if I could have done them "off deck" using a cannon rigging jig, which I used in a previous build. This was not going to be possible as I had already glued in the eyebolts to the cannon assemblies.
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Speedy has now come to life now that all the deck fitting have been fitted. After much inner discussions I have decided not to rig the 4lb cannons. Next stage will be the production of the all masts. bowsprit, yards, etc.
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I have painted and fitted the swivel guns (all twenty) and I have started to add all the deck fittings. I have dry fitted the bowsprit, fore mast and main mast, all cut on the long side. The yellow tape indicates the true length of these items.
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I have now dry fitted the chain plates with the channels. According to the plan sheets the lower end of the 5mm deadeye chain plates should terminate at the lower edge of the wale. It would seem they actually terminate just below the lower edge of the wale. From what I can see from the build photos in the manual the chain plates do terminate below the bottom edge of the wales. It is possible to ensure that the chain plates terminate with the lower wale edge, noting the deadeye would be slightly raised above the channel. After Post Comment After looking at the bending and shaping of the lower part of the chain plate and noting the channel can be raised up a tad as the top edge needs to be level with the lower edge of the gun port (the are only dry fitted at the moment) I have decided to locate the top chain plate pin hole in the wale and to locate the lower chain plate pin hole below the wale. The two photos below shows the channel can be repositioned a tad and also the shaping and current position of one of the chain plates.
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The pins have now been glued in the channels and cleats. I then dry fitted the cleats to ensure the support pins had been trimmed to the right length. To ensure the channels are correctly positioned and so that I drill the holes accurately on the hull to accept the support pins I used my 2mm tape. I positioned lengths of tape in the correct position for the channels based plan sheet 4 along the hull. I then offered up each channel to the tape (at 90 degrees) and marked the position of the support pins on to the tape. Once I was happy the markings on the tape were in the correct position I used my 0.6mm drill to make the holes for the channel support pins. See pictures below (not great quality) Cleats dry fitted Taping of channel positions and marking of the support pin locations. Dry fitting of the channels to check the pin holes are deep enough.
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I have now painted the channels and cleats. They have all be drilled (using a 0.6mm drill) so the pins for additional support when fixing these items to the hull can be glued in place. It should be noted that only 6 off (3 per side) of the larger cleats are provided with the kit which is in line with the instruction manual requirements. I will fit 4 per side however, as indicated on plan sheet 4, as I did have some spares. I have also fitted the 3mm and 5mm deadeyes to their respective chain plates. It did not take to much effort to open up the chain plates to accept the deadeyes and then to close them back up again. The deadeye can still be rotated to ensure they are in the correct position when the rigging stage commences. I may add a touch a ca in advance to help secure the deadeyes in the correct alignment. I did drop one 3mm deadeye on the floor and despite my best efforts it is now deemed to be "MIA"
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Hello Chris I have a clarification with regards to the Speedy build related to parts PE 7 (cannon eyebolt) and PE7a (cannon eyebolt ring). I believe correct fitting of the cannon eyebolt ring is as shown in photo (page 34 of the instruction manual), i.e. they are simply fitted over the cannon eyebolts so the eyebolt ring can then be used if the cannons are rigged. Is this correct? The diagrams shown on page 35 of the manual initially made me think that the eyebolt rings were actually fitted to the hull (as decoration), which I do not believe is the case, the diagram is just simply showing the eyebolt rings in place fitted over the eyebolts, as per the photo on the previous page. I thought it better to clarify as these parts are currently being painted so I can fit to the hull in the next day or two. I have made a few mistakes along the way and I would like to make sure I get this part of the build right first time. Many thanks for a great kit, I am really enjoying building it at the moment.
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A little pit more progress today. I have used a 0.8mm drill on the 20 off swivel guns and clued the swivel gun handles into position. I will delay fixing these gun assemblies to the build until I'm ready to finalise the fitting of all the deck items. I have also fitted the belaying pin racks to the hull assembly. I did follow the advise the manual and used a pin to provide additional support. I'm planning to build and fit the channel assemblies next together with the gun tackle eyebolts and cleats.
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Hello Derek I prefer to apply a clear matt varnish finish to my copper plating.
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Hi David Great to hear from you again. I have been away from model boat building for a couple of years (or more). I was really excited by the Chris Watton design and as I was move my work area in to my conservatory (from the garage) I took the plunge. It is a great kit and I really happy to be back building. I look forward to watching you progress with Diana.
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I plan to fit all the swivel guns. I also read that they may not have all been fitted but I think it will look more impressive with all guns and cannons fitted. I also thinking about rigging all (or some of) the 4lb cannons. If I do so I will build a rigging jig to make the task easier.
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I have started the assembly of the 20 off swivel guns. I am just waiting for a delivery of a new set of micro drills (due later today) as I have snapped all my 0.8mm and 0.6mm drill bits before I can complete this task. In the first picture you can also see the steps painted side steps, in readiness for installation. In the second picture you see one completed swivel gun assembly, prior to snapping my final 0.8mm drill bit. I used some 2mm tape, marked with the position of the steps to help position the side steps. Finally I have also assembled the two ladders and test fitted them.
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Yes, I did that before I started the copper plating on my build.
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I found Speedy copper plating quite relaxing. My HMS Victory build had approx 3000 copper plates to fit and that did become a tad tedious at times but the end result was worth it on both builds.
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Catheads and timber heads have now been fitted. I did pin the timber head (part 122) to provide additional support. I also used a 6mm dowel to ensure the is room for the bowsprit to be fitted between the timber heads.
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Looks really good, slow and steady is the best way.
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It is a great design which I'm sure you will enjoy building. I always think adding the deck fittings really starts brings the build to life.
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Thanks Derek. It has been a very productive day. I will start the mass production the swivel gun assemblies later this week. I have tended to paint the parts before removing from the sheets, and then touching up where necessary.
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I have fitted the bow main rails and the three bow vertical rails, some of the photos were take before the vertical rails and been attached to the main rails. I would say that this was the most difficult task to date with this build, it took a while to find the best methods for painting and then fixing parts to the hull. I ended up pinning the main bow rail to the hull, noting the pin will be hidden once the catheads have been installed. I have built and painted the catheads and they will be glued in place tomorrow. I have also assembled the majority of deck items and placed in position (not glued). The two deck pumps (shown on the photos) just need to be painted and fitted to 4mm x 40mm dowels. The 4lb cannons can be seen in the first photo, on the window ledge. -tab=comments#.url
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Here is an update of my progress. The first two pictures show the swivel gun bases (unpainted) fitted to the capping The next couple of pictures show the swivel gun bases painted black I initially painted the swivel gun post supports yellow, but as I had incorrectly positioned them I was not happy with the results as shown in the following picture I added some wood filler to the gaps and then painted the gun post supports black. It looks better. I have painted the stern area a mixture of yellow and black. I have filled in the hole on the bottom left of the picture I have added the 3 off stern board rails, the stern capping and the 2 stern crutch boom patterns. Finally I have checked the fitting of the 3 off bow frames. They all fitted OK. I have shown a picture with one bow frame in place during a test fit. The slots were tight and took some of the yellow paint of the bow strip. They will be repainted.
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I have now added the swivel post support timbers (painted yellow ochre) to the upper rail. Having read the manual for the next part of the build I have realised the swivel posts should sit flush with the top edge of the capping. I positioned mine to be level with lower edge of the capping. I probably could remove and reposition but I think I may leave them as fitted, in case I damage them. I have also drilled the 4 off haswe holes using a 2mm drill. Next up will be the fitting of the swivel gun bases to the capping. I have just noted, looking at the photo below, a couple of copper plates with some ca glue which will need removing.
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I was not totally happy with the natural wood finish of the hull above the copper plates so I applied an oak wood stain but was still not happy so I decided to paint the hull using my yellow ochre paint. I think it looks better now. I have also added the capping rail and upper support rails and the decoration looks really nice. I have already painted the fender patterns yellow ochre and I will fix them to the upper rail patterns in due course.
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Thanks as there is great excitement about another kit on the horizon. I am currently enjoying building the Speedy kit and would welcome building another Vanguard model kit.
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