Professor

I'll take some better ones once displayed. If anyone needs photo's let me know and I'll try to post them for you. Now, soon I'll be into the CW Morgan......first time for wood, so it'll be slower....
John

Well, after 44 years I guess I'm going to be like Andy.....She is finished with the exception of a few touch ups, and a couple of backstays that need tightening up, and building the wood base for her....
 
today I hung the boats and here we are. This has been quite an experience, and I appreciate all the help and encouragement from this Forum. Without it I probably would not have finished, at least not in a timely manner....this kept me going and here it is.
 
Thanks to everyone for all their input and encouragement. Here's some pictures, and I'll post a group in the Gallery in the next few days, as I finish the base. Thanks.......

I had a good 3-day weekend on the ship.  On Friday, I finished the lifts on all three masts and tied in the blocks to the crosstrees in preparation for doing the leech and bunt lines.
 
Saturday and Sunday, I completed the leech and bunt lines (step 5).  The upper ones tied off on the fight top railing, the lower ones through blocks and tied off at a railing.
 
I skipped step 4 for now so as not to work around those lines (sheets).  I'm going to look through the instructions and rig those lines that tie off near the mast base prior to doing some of the outside lines.  Next up will be rigging the bowsprit left and right, including the studding sail boom.
 
Andy
 
Foremast:

 
Mainmast:

 
Full ship as she stands:

I only had one day this weekend to work, but I feel I got a lot done.  I had finished the main mast lower halyard on Tuesday, and today completed the mizzen mast lower halyard.  The mizzen was easier as it was just one side, there was no balancing the left and right sides.
 
Mainmast:
 

 
Mizzen mast lower halyard:
 

 
I had some confusion on where to put the blocks on the mast tops for the top gallant halyard, and I ended up drilling a small hole in the top near the railing to tie the block:
 

 
Next, I was able to rig all three masts top gallant halyards:
 


 
 

As promised, the main mast jeers.  I spent the rest of the day today tying blocks to the crosstrees and chainplate ledges in preparation for the halyards.  FYI, for anyone following the Revell instructions, the mizzenmast halyard apparently only goes to the starboard side, and I re-used the same eyebolt used for the backstays.  The other two masts had a free eyebolt just ahead of the backstays.  I hope this is correct.
 

 
The mainmast jeer drops and is tied to the railing - there is no pin to attach it for some reason.

I finished adding the yard supports on all three masts -- only for the lowest yard.
 

 
Next was adding the jeers.  I started with the foremast.  The instructions call for the jeer blocks be 3 1/2 inches apart.  I found that 3 inches (for the foremast) was a better distance - maybe 3 1/8, but it allows for a better separation between blocks.
 
See for yourself.
 



 
Next up, the jeers on the mainmast.
 
Andy.

Now that the Dirty Dozen is until control and ready for the museum, the new Chapter for the book is done with CD's burned and will be mailed Monday to the publisher I am back to the Constitution. Since I have limited building space I will follow the process I did on the Niagara and rig up the masts a level at a time. I started by making ropes for the lower shrouds with my Model Expo rope walk somewhat modified. When I get tired of making ropes I add deadeyes to the fighting tops using 26 gauge black anodized copper beading wire. First I wrap the deadeye and twist a 3/8" tail that is inserted into the oval hole to the front and glued in place. Once all deadeyes are in place I use a 1/32" drill bit to clean the hole next to the 3/8" tail as a guide. Once the hole is drilled clean I cut the excess tail flush to the bottom surface. Next I twist a loop using a .040" drill bit stem held in a pin vise and cut a 1/16" tail and then glue the loop into the hole. I then add more CA to each location to assure a tight glue joint for both the deadeye and loop. After all the deadeyes were in place I added the guard rail.
 
Here is the guard in place.
 

 
Here are the staged ropes for the shrouds.
 

 
Now back to deadeyes.

I realized that before I could add the shroud lines that the pendants had to be installed first. So first I had to make thimbles for the ends. I started with 3/16" rod, drilled the end with a 1/8" bit then cut the groove in the thimble for the rope. Once the rope groove was cut I then cut a guideline for the saw blade to cut the thimble off. With this small a part I inserted the shaft of a Q-tip to retain the thimble on when the final cut was made and saving it from flying through the air. After all were cut they were stained with patina and then rope added.

 

 

 

 
The pendants were then added to the masts at their appropriate lengths. Will post a picture later on.
 
Next I made a setup to use my Sherline lathe as a serving machine for the shroud lines. I glued a clip to a brass rod for the chuck and glued another clip to the point of the live center. I used an Allen wrench in a tool post with a small clip to hold the thread spool in place. The thread was then held at a length of 5 inches between the clips and served by holding slight tension on the thread once tied securely to the chuck end of the line turned on the lathe at a very slow speed feeding the thread to the underside of the line being served. It takes a little practice to get the feel but once it is the serving goes quickly. I found that by using the second hand fingers sliding the thread back and forth as you progress it evens out the thread. The lathe speed is almost as slow as you can go. Here are pictures of the set up I am using.

 

 

 

 
Now back to rope work. Slowly but surely.
 
 
 
 

Jon, Yes, much better than by hand, however it does require a learning curve and eye hand coordination. My glue joint broke loose off the live center end so for the second glue joint I added a small piece of paper towel overlapping the center tip and clip end. Will see how long that lasts. Another thought I had was using a fishing lure swivel in a chuck.
 
Here is a picture of the pendants, once attached I found that the rope did not exactly hang straight so I soaked the rope in 50/50 water/white glue mix and added weighted clips on the thimbles and let set overnight and they hang much straighter now.
 

 
Next I started on the foremast and added the shroud rope lines that I made. I started on the forward starboard side and worked side to side adding a pair at a time. Once all were in place I painted the seizing at the top mast and at the deadeyes with Ultra Flat Black Camouflage paint from a spray can with a brush that when dry appears as being pitched. This is one I learned on building the Niagara.
 

 

 
Next to add the single lines with block and tackle and then onto the main mast and I will add the sheer poles as I move along to straighten out the blocks.
 
 
 

Marvelous execution thus far, amigo. I'm pulling up a comfy chair and anticipating more of this entertaining and I dare say very informative build.
Carry on, Moonbug.
- Professor

Marvelous execution thus far, amigo. I'm pulling up a comfy chair and anticipating more of this entertaining and I dare say very informative build.
Carry on, Moonbug.
- Professor

Marvelous execution thus far, amigo. I'm pulling up a comfy chair and anticipating more of this entertaining and I dare say very informative build.
Carry on, Moonbug.
- Professor

That concise little tutorial is going to be SO helpful when I reach the point of rigging the Mamoli HMS Victory model I recently received as a gift. Once I went over the plans a few times with your outline close at hand, I found to my pleasant surprise that the system you described actually should make the whole rigging process faster and easier. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience with your fellow model shipwrights.
Ciao,
Professor

That concise little tutorial is going to be SO helpful when I reach the point of rigging the Mamoli HMS Victory model I recently received as a gift. Once I went over the plans a few times with your outline close at hand, I found to my pleasant surprise that the system you described actually should make the whole rigging process faster and easier. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience with your fellow model shipwrights.
Ciao,
Professor

Marvelous execution thus far, amigo. I'm pulling up a comfy chair and anticipating more of this entertaining and I dare say very informative build.
Carry on, Moonbug.
- Professor

I've trudged through some progress this week, whittling away at the repetitive bits.  I'm doubling up on photos from a previous post here (sorry) but I'd worked on prepping all the deadeyes and strops while working on the gunport lids.  
 

 
This ended up being pretty valuable time use, so when it came time to mount the channel plates and subsequently the deadeyes, it was a nice little assembly line.
 
   I prepped my eyebolts and nails with 50/50 black-it and water mix.  I always have a bit of trouble with eyebolts as the metal is difficult to prep, and the blackening doesn't end up super consistent.  Most of the time it ends up requiring some touch up.  My plan is to go through and touch up the shiny bits after all the deadeyes are fully mounted.
 

 
   I also realize I didn't quite get the angles correct on the strops when they're mounted to the hull. I had some difficulty with the different lengths of strop parts and getting them arranged properly.  The difference in sizes was SO minute that I just couldn't figure out the different lengths to create a proper parallel line on the hull withe the different angles.  Ugh.
 

 
   At any rate - the good news here (I guess) is that this won't be particularly noticeable to the average eye since there aren't any ratlines or shrouds actually attached to the deadeyes, so the lines from the masts and crosstrees to the hull won't be inconsistent... cuz there won't be any...
 
yes... I'm rationalizing.    
 

Beautiful work you have going there, Karl. Thanks for taking the time to share it with your fellow model shipwrights.
"P/S" means Port (left side) and Starboard (right side). It indicates that whatever modification or accessory addition is being shown should be performed on both sides of the specified part. For example, in the picture you posted, the P/S notation shows that a cleat needs to be installed on both the left and right boom jaws.

I'll be joining the audience for your build of what has always been my favorite of the majestic China tea clippers.
May the coming year bring you all good things. Happy modeling, mate.

Marvelous job, Karl. Particularly impressive are the multiple light prisms for illumination of the deck below. (Were those kit pieces or did you fashion them? In either event, might you have a macro photo of one?) Well done build, mate.

Other than affixing ratlines to the shrouds, which is perhaps the most hideously tedious task I have ever inflicted on myself on a fairly regular basis, I have always enjoyed the sort of  zen sensation that accompanies the rigging process. If the rigging can be made to actually function accurately, it is a source of a wonderful sense of accomplishment. Intricate rigging, authentically executed, is a highlight of any ship model and a true thing of beauty in its own right. The extravagant sculpture that is the rigging of a big frigate or windjammer is breathtaking when done well, and worth every second of the requisite effort.

Other than affixing ratlines to the shrouds, which is perhaps the most hideously tedious task I have ever inflicted on myself on a fairly regular basis, I have always enjoyed the sort of  zen sensation that accompanies the rigging process. If the rigging can be made to actually function accurately, it is a source of a wonderful sense of accomplishment. Intricate rigging, authentically executed, is a highlight of any ship model and a true thing of beauty in its own right. The extravagant sculpture that is the rigging of a big frigate or windjammer is breathtaking when done well, and worth every second of the requisite effort.

Other than affixing ratlines to the shrouds, which is perhaps the most hideously tedious task I have ever inflicted on myself on a fairly regular basis, I have always enjoyed the sort of  zen sensation that accompanies the rigging process. If the rigging can be made to actually function accurately, it is a source of a wonderful sense of accomplishment. Intricate rigging, authentically executed, is a highlight of any ship model and a true thing of beauty in its own right. The extravagant sculpture that is the rigging of a big frigate or windjammer is breathtaking when done well, and worth every second of the requisite effort.

Other than affixing ratlines to the shrouds, which is perhaps the most hideously tedious task I have ever inflicted on myself on a fairly regular basis, I have always enjoyed the sort of  zen sensation that accompanies the rigging process. If the rigging can be made to actually function accurately, it is a source of a wonderful sense of accomplishment. Intricate rigging, authentically executed, is a highlight of any ship model and a true thing of beauty in its own right. The extravagant sculpture that is the rigging of a big frigate or windjammer is breathtaking when done well, and worth every second of the requisite effort.

Other than affixing ratlines to the shrouds, which is perhaps the most hideously tedious task I have ever inflicted on myself on a fairly regular basis, I have always enjoyed the sort of  zen sensation that accompanies the rigging process. If the rigging can be made to actually function accurately, it is a source of a wonderful sense of accomplishment. Intricate rigging, authentically executed, is a highlight of any ship model and a true thing of beauty in its own right. The extravagant sculpture that is the rigging of a big frigate or windjammer is breathtaking when done well, and worth every second of the requisite effort.

I love rigging in every way except the ratlines... which is where i am right now with the Kate Cory build of mine. When those are done it is smooth sailing and lots of fun to rig a sailing vessel... even more fun to make the rigging actually work the way it is supposed to on the real ship. The model just comes to life with every addition.