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MrBlueJacket

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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket

  1. Sail is furled and hung on the mast. Next step is to belay the 6 sheet, clew and bunt lines.
  2. And hung on the lower topmast. Next will be to furl the sail, then hang it on the mast.
  3. Sail drawn. Added the sheet, bunt and clew lines. Ready to hang on the yard.
  4. Here's my first attempt. Our gratings are rectangular, so I cut off the edging, squared it, and added new edges. Not happy with my joinery work, so I will re-do tonight. Like the noted modeler Steve Wheeler said, "The wastebasket is your best tool."
  5. Shaped the wooden deck and traced the attachment points. Not sure if I will cut the grating off the plastic deck or use the laser cut gratings we sell. Opinions?
  6. Next step is to insert wooden blocks because I will be using pedestals, not the plastic cradle tht came with the kit. First step is to rough up where the blocks will be with some 60 grit sandpaper. Then some 5-minute epoxy to hold the blocks, which were tapered to fit the curve of the bottom.
  7. Over the weekend, prepped the lower topmast yard. Will draw the sails during the week.
  8. Nice job! Your customer file now shows you will get a 10% discount on the next kit you buy from us. I can suggest the Smuggler, Charles P. Notman, Atlantic, Fannie Gorham, Bowdoin, or Alfred to name a few.....
  9. Then attach all the rest of the sail lines, except for the tack line, which would interfere with other stuff. The tack lines will get attached when doing the braces.
  10. Next step is to attach the lifts. They start of course at the yardarm, go through a block in the cap, and terminate to a single becket block.There were two difficult steps which took about 2 hrs. One, getting a line through the little blocks under the fife rail. (see post#22) Second was to align the lifts so the yard would be perpendicular to the mast.
  11. First, the vacuformed sails will be discarded. also, the plastic decking will be replace with wood. I took some glued-up decking, and painted it wood, then wiped it off with thinner. SInce the main deck was a little wider than the wood, I had to butt splice 2 sheets together. A scrap strip of 1/32 basswood added strength to the joint. When flipped over, you can't see the joinery.
  12. A bit of a departure, but I was at an IPMS show in Sanford ME this spring, and decided to build a model to enter next year. Not anything too complex, like Cutty Sark of Constitution. This kit seemed perfect, and with just a little kit-bashing should produce a good model.
  13. Mounted the yard this weekend. roughly placed all 10 sail lines and attached the chain sling, complete with leather chafing guard.
  14. Furling the sail to my satisfaction took about 1/2 hour. I'm happy with the way it looks. Now to do 4 more, then the jibs.
  15. Starting to furl the sail. You have to dampen (not soak) the silkspan to get it to co-operate.
  16. Getting ready to furl the sail. You can see the leech and bunt lines going up through the bullseyes on the top of the yard. Hard to see, but the reef line goes through a block at the end of the yard.
  17. All the lines and blocks attached. now it is time to glue the sail to the yard. I'm using Aleen's Tacky glue, which is like Elmer's on steroids. I lay a thin bead at the top of the sail. Next I place it on the yard, which is held up with an alligator clip stand (3rd hand) At this scale, jackstays would be parctically invisible.
  18. Did some work on the main fore course this weekend. Attached the leech, bunt, and reef lines. Then I will need to turn it over to do the clew and tack lines. Then need to attach the sheet blocks to the corners (reinforced with a bit of CA)
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