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MrBlueJacket

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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket

  1. If the parts are clean, no need to prime them. And for "considering not priming...." I call that inspired laziness, I do it all the time. Nic
  2. Just a guess, but I've seen numerous examples of lines going to blocks on the deck, then up to a belaying point. I think it is because you can pull up with more force than you can pull down, being limited by your weight.
  3. We already have the USS Perry, similar in size and complexity. https://www.bluejacketinc.com/shop/model-ships/kits-model-ships/naval-vessels/uss-perry/
  4. It was a B***h to get the double sheet block tucked behind the wheelhouse. Attached with fine thread into an eyebolt.
  5. Prepping the boom and gaff with blocks. I used 1/8" blocks, painted with dark tan and stropped with .010" wire.
  6. Eric, we have listened to your comments. Since you finished the model, your customer file now shows a 10% discount on the next kit you buy from us. We have plans to build the Cairo in 3/16" = 1' scale (3x the size of this one) and it will be a longitudinal cut-away to show interior details. Nic
  7. The hulls "should" be a little oversized to allow the modeler to bring it down to the final dimensions. Nic
  8. Try auto glazing putty or bondo or wall spackle. All 3 are relatively soft, stay away from carpenter's putties - they dry way too hard. Nic
  9. A little putty and sandpaper will make that hull nice and smooth. Stay away from the hard carpenter's fillers, use softer ones like auto glazing putty, bondo, or even wall spackle. Nic
  10. I would suggest against the Durham's putty - it dries VERY hard and it will be difficult to get a nice feathered edge with the basswood. Instead, try auto glazing putty, bondo, or wall spackle. that's what we use. Nic
  11. Over the weekend, got the first pair of shrouds done on each side and started the second set of starboard shrouds. Then will come the forestay and more ratlines. notice the temporary forestay to keep the mast from leaning backwards as the shrouds pull in that direction.
  12. Although it looks like a lot of leaning to port, when the shroud is tightened up on the starboard, it becomes perfect.
  13. Now for the lower stays. To get the masts parallel, I must first pull the mast to port, so when I attach the starboard stay, it will pull back to where it should be. View from the bow.
  14. Keith, thanks for the tip. I wet the last inch of thread in CA glue, which makes it stiff, like a needle threader. Works great.
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