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MrBlueJacket

NRG Member
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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket

  1. Although it looks like a lot of leaning to port, when the shroud is tightened up on the starboard, it becomes perfect.
  2. Now for the lower stays. To get the masts parallel, I must first pull the mast to port, so when I attach the starboard stay, it will pull back to where it should be. View from the bow.
  3. Keith, thanks for the tip. I wet the last inch of thread in CA glue, which makes it stiff, like a needle threader. Works great.
  4. Here's the 3/32 deadeyes on the fore top. Really tough to get them nice and even. I spent 1 1/2 hours on it.
  5. Attached blocks around the foremast. And finally able to attach the fore fife rail. It's going to be difficult to get to those blocks.
  6. Congratulations, Tim. Beautiful job. Your customer file now shows 10% off the next kit you buy from us. Nic
  7. Next, I did the main stays. they end under the fife rail, so I had to thread them through the fife rail.
  8. Al has a picture of an eagle on his door with the saying "excellence is not a skill, it is an attitude" - why do I mention this? So after doing the foretop shrouds, I was not happy with them, they were uneven. So you guessed it, I ripped them off. Now mind you, these are only 3/32", our tiniest ones. The shrouds are .015"
  9. Over the weekend, got 6 shrouds finished. Very important that the upper deadeyes are even with the waterline. Sometimes I have to re-adjust several times to get close. the for final adjustments, I can twist the shrouds to raise or lower the deadeye, and also vary the tension on the lanyards.
  10. Regarding the mizzen - Noted modeler Steve Wheeler ( died last year) always said "your best tool is the wastebin"
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