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MrBlueJacket

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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket

  1. MrBlueJacket
    Lower yard finished and ready to attach the sail. Footropes are .010 wire.
  2. MrBlueJacket
    Here's the blocks for the leech and bunt lines And the tiny 1/16" OD bullseyes for the same lines.
  3. MrBlueJacket
    Main backstays are now in place.
  4. MrBlueJacket
    In the Northeast we hold an annual joint clubs meeting at the same place and time every year, and it draws 100 modelers. Always the last Saturday in April, at the Port & Starboard convention center in New London CT. Here is a video of this year's conference: So the idea of a rotating but repeat location is very attractive.
  5. MrBlueJacket
    With that sail in place, I can now install all the main stays. The lower one, installed earlier, is .025" thread, doubled. The next one up is .020 and above that, .015 and the last two are .010 line.
  6. MrBlueJacket
    Here's the Main staysail, all furled up.
  7. MrBlueJacket
    Over the weekend, furled the sail, added the topping lift, throat and peak halyards, and a few other things.
  8. MrBlueJacket
    Finished the mast hoops and strung the parrel beads to the boom and gaff. These tiny beads came from a craft store (many years ago - I don't remember which one)
  9. MrBlueJacket
    laced the sail to the boom and gaff, then started to attach it to the mast hoops.
  10. MrBlueJacket
    Cut the main sail and the main staysail from silkspan after marking the panel and reef lines.
  11. MrBlueJacket
    Nice to see you stepping up to the task!
  12. MrBlueJacket
    If the parts are clean, no need to prime them. And for "considering not priming...." I call that inspired laziness, I do it all the time. Nic
  13. MrBlueJacket
    All seems OK. Remember, no-one will take a ruler to your hull and tell you it's 1/32" off !
  14. MrBlueJacket
    Just a guess, but I've seen numerous examples of lines going to blocks on the deck, then up to a belaying point. I think it is because you can pull up with more force than you can pull down, being limited by your weight.
  15. MrBlueJacket
    We already have the USS Perry, similar in size and complexity. https://www.bluejacketinc.com/shop/model-ships/kits-model-ships/naval-vessels/uss-perry/
  16. MrBlueJacket
    Lastly, the peak halyard blocks went on the mast.
  17. MrBlueJacket
    It was a B***h to get the double sheet block tucked behind the wheelhouse. Attached with fine thread into an eyebolt.
  18. MrBlueJacket
    Prepping the boom and gaff with blocks. I used 1/8" blocks, painted with dark tan and stropped with .010" wire.
  19. MrBlueJacket
    Ratlines are all finished. Next I will do the furled main sail.
  20. MrBlueJacket
    Good start, Tim. Look for a PM from me. Nic
  21. MrBlueJacket
    Eric, we have listened to your comments. Since you finished the model, your customer file now shows a 10% discount on the next kit you buy from us. We have plans to build the Cairo in 3/16" = 1' scale (3x the size of this one) and it will be a longitudinal cut-away to show interior details. Nic
  22. MrBlueJacket
    The hulls "should" be a little oversized to allow the modeler to bring it down to the final dimensions. Nic
  23. MrBlueJacket
    Try auto glazing putty or bondo or wall spackle. All 3 are relatively soft, stay away from carpenter's putties - they dry way too hard. Nic
  24. MrBlueJacket
    A little putty and sandpaper will make that hull nice and smooth. Stay away from the hard carpenter's fillers, use softer ones like auto glazing putty, bondo, or even wall spackle. Nic
  25. MrBlueJacket
    I would suggest against the Durham's putty - it dries VERY hard and it will be difficult to get a nice feathered edge with the basswood. Instead, try auto glazing putty, bondo, or wall spackle. that's what we use. Nic

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