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MrBlueJacket

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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket

  1. MrBlueJacket
    Good start, Tim. Look for a PM from me. Nic
  2. MrBlueJacket
    Eric, we have listened to your comments. Since you finished the model, your customer file now shows a 10% discount on the next kit you buy from us. We have plans to build the Cairo in 3/16" = 1' scale (3x the size of this one) and it will be a longitudinal cut-away to show interior details. Nic
  3. MrBlueJacket
    The hulls "should" be a little oversized to allow the modeler to bring it down to the final dimensions. Nic
  4. MrBlueJacket
    Try auto glazing putty or bondo or wall spackle. All 3 are relatively soft, stay away from carpenter's putties - they dry way too hard. Nic
  5. MrBlueJacket
    A little putty and sandpaper will make that hull nice and smooth. Stay away from the hard carpenter's fillers, use softer ones like auto glazing putty, bondo, or even wall spackle. Nic
  6. MrBlueJacket
    I would suggest against the Durham's putty - it dries VERY hard and it will be difficult to get a nice feathered edge with the basswood. Instead, try auto glazing putty, bondo, or wall spackle. that's what we use. Nic
  7. MrBlueJacket
    Congratulations! Under Daniels name, it now shows a 10% discount on the next kit you buy from us! Well done!
  8. MrBlueJacket
    Shrouds are finished, forestay is attached with bullseyes, and the ratlines begin again.......
  9. MrBlueJacket
    Over the weekend, got the first pair of shrouds done on each side and started the second set of starboard shrouds. Then will come the forestay and more ratlines. notice the temporary forestay to keep the mast from leaning backwards as the shrouds pull in that direction.
  10. MrBlueJacket
    Although it looks like a lot of leaning to port, when the shroud is tightened up on the starboard, it becomes perfect.
  11. MrBlueJacket
    Now for the lower stays. To get the masts parallel, I must first pull the mast to port, so when I attach the starboard stay, it will pull back to where it should be. View from the bow.
  12. MrBlueJacket
    Finished all the upper ratlines, time to mount the foremast.
  13. MrBlueJacket
    Nice case!
  14. MrBlueJacket
    Over the w/e, started the fore topmast ratlines
  15. MrBlueJacket
    You are correct. We sell parts all t he time. Nic
  16. MrBlueJacket
    Last night finished the port main ratlines.
  17. MrBlueJacket
    Keith, thanks for the tip. I wet the last inch of thread in CA glue, which makes it stiff, like a needle threader. Works great.
  18. MrBlueJacket
    And of course it's time to start the ratlines.
  19. MrBlueJacket
    Here's the 3/32 deadeyes on the fore top. Really tough to get them nice and even. I spent 1 1/2 hours on it.
  20. MrBlueJacket
    Attached blocks around the foremast. And finally able to attach the fore fife rail. It's going to be difficult to get to those blocks.
  21. MrBlueJacket
    More layers. Almost to the top.....
  22. MrBlueJacket
    Congratulations, Tim. Beautiful job. Your customer file now shows 10% off the next kit you buy from us. Nic
  23. MrBlueJacket
    Next, I did the main stays. they end under the fife rail, so I had to thread them through the fife rail.
  24. MrBlueJacket
    After re-doing them, I felt much better.
  25. MrBlueJacket
    Al has a picture of an eagle on his door with the saying "excellence is not a skill, it is an attitude" - why do I mention this? So after doing the foretop shrouds, I was not happy with them, they were uneven. So you guessed it, I ripped them off. Now mind you, these are only 3/32", our tiniest ones. The shrouds are .015"

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