tarbrush

Hi,
she is built.










Best
Tomek

Hi,
It took me a lot of time to finish some details, but finally I set up masts and have something new to show.

 











Best
Tomek

Hello
Waiting for the cooperators until they meet what they promised for my "7 Provinces"  I decided to rest for a while and started something simpler (but not much smaller).
The "szkutas" sailed on the Vistula for several centuries, transporting mainly grain to Gdańsk. They were really huge, because the hull itself was even 30 meters long, and at the rear there was also a characteristic long rudder blade.
Below is a painting by Bernardo Bellotto called. Canaletto with the barge and the panorama of Warsaw

  (by the way, Canaletto was the court painter of King Stanisław August Poniatowski and his paintings depicting the architecture of Warsaw at that time were used after the Second World War to rebuild the Old Town of Warsaw)[public domain]
 
Fortunately, archaeological sites were discovered and secured in many places in Poland, hence more and more is known about old Polish river ships.
In addition to the szkuta there were smaller vessels sailed: dubases, kozas (goats), byks (bulls), galaras, komięgas and the smallest rafts. The smaller ones did not even return from Gdańsk and were sold for wood. Models of these ships (boats) can be seen at the Maritime Museum in Gdańsk.

 
Historically, the shipping of goods (grain, leather, wood) down the Vistula to Gdańsk was a very important branch of economic development for Poland. Sometimes it was said that "Poland was the breadbasket of Europe" due to the export of huge amounts of grain.

 
And I also have a certain "relationship" with Polish rafting, because I live in the Ulanów region, which is called "the capital of Polish rafting". The San River flowing through Ulanów goes into the Vistula and was the main route for transporting goods from the Zamość region (the name Zamojszczyzna and the city of Zamość are associated with one of the largest magnate families in the history of Poland - the Zamoyski family).
A phenomenal document describing the construction of these boats is the preserved inventory with precise measurements made in 1796 in the river port in Krzeszów (9 km from my home!!!) by the Austro-Hungarian engineer Benevenutus Losa von Losennau.


The szkutas had a flat bottom slightly raised at the stern and the bow made of pine, oak sides "overlapping", one square sail. At the stern there was a storage and utility room. The rudder blade, up to 12 meters long, with a very long tiller, which was operated on a high transverse platform, was very characteristic.

Well, the construction of the model is so trivial that I took almost no photos:
1) 0.5mm flat cardboard bottom
2) glued frame of the room at the stern
3) the first plank stuck to the edge of the bottom
4) 60 brackets...
...what caused some problems. I started gluing them empty inside. Unfortunately, despite the care taken to make them precisely, they came out very differently. Even worse was that they turned out to be too flaccid and there would be no way to stick the planks to them later. Fortunately, after the first few pieces, I started making them in the form of three cardboard layers glued together (2x1.00 mm + 0.50 mm).

 
Then I have attached the rest of planks to this construction.





Greetings
Tomek

Boomkins for foresail tacks. Circled in green. Not sure how I decided on size shape or location, probably from a different model, but seems to work. 


It’s hidden pretty well on the plans 

A little more progress, Wales and Waterway Strip added.

We attended the Tattoo in 2019.  A great show!  The highlight was towards the end of the show with the lone piper playing from the ramparts.  Just as he began playing, a mist came swirling in from the Firth.

I love pipe bands. The first sound of a drone starting I can feel the tingle run down my spine - must be hereditary memory, the call to grab a claymore and run to the action.
 
Took the kids to Scotland and the Edinburgh tattoo a few years back. When the massed pipes marched out across the drawbridge and fanned out along the parade ground, my son turned to me and said, "This is cool!" 🙂

1). Raised letters on transom:  Applied a raised name board with flat letters

 
2). Skylight:  On another model I wanted to be able to see down thru the hatches to the deck below. I chiseled out a portion of the hull about double the size of the hatch opening, framed the opening, added the cowelling and planked the lower deck. It turned out well with the shadows highlighting the depth. I suppose something similar could be done for a skylight. 

Progress and setbacks. I am enjoying the build, along with the frustrations but like life, its a steep learning curve. I am learning a lot, mostly its patience and what doesn't work. ;o) Got the upper section of hull planked, but dropped the boat when I was sanding the putty and snapped off the end of the stem and cracked a few planks.  Thank God wood is a little bit forgiving. Got it fixed and am happy with the repair. It got cold in the "Dungeon" (garage below the house) even here in Spain so I moved inside to my model desk till it warms back up in a few weeks. Some lessons learned:
 
1. Take your time in preparation and watch videos/ask questions. THANK YOU TO ALL WHO HAVE PROVIDED TIPS/ENCOURAGEMENT!
2. Learn to sharpen tools and change blades often. Sharp tools cut better and do not splinter the wood. Plus they cut easier and you reduce the chance of cutting a finger. Don't ask. (Should have transferred this lesson over from plastic models).
3. If you are married, sand outside, especially the hull after puttying. Trust me on this, do not go there.
4. Clean as you go.
5. Enjoy the process.

Thanks for your kind comment. 

I approach modeling as an activity designed to be satisfactory to me, so how picky I am at the details depends on the day I am doing them. Frequently, they don’t pass muster the following day, but as another member states, “ the wood is forgiving “. 

 I initially spent hours carving, sanding, filling, sanding, filling, etc. ad naseum trying to get the hull shaped just right, tossing the whole thing into the trash, retrieving it, and continuing on another day.  In the end, I decided that wasn’t nearly as important to me as getting into the satisfaction of the rest of the build. So, my tip would be:  If it becomes a burden, it’s no longer a hobby. Also, remember that the model is an illusion. Unless you’re looking at the model from directly below ( and not many people do that) you can’t tell if the hull is exactly symmetrical. I have learned that Model Shipways solid hull blanks are machined more symmetrical than others are. 
 
This model has been around for many years and instruction sheets have been revised several times. The first model I bought I got on eBay, and it was an unbuilt kit from many years ago .. the instructions were printed on one 8 1/2 x 11 sheet, rather than the multi-page booklet that comes in the kit now. But, the plans appear the same. Consequently, there might be some instructions that don’t exactly match the plans. So, you may need to use some of your own woodworking intuition to get where you want to be. 
 
As far as getting the masts located as desired, I learned to depend less on the hole in the deck and more on adjusting the shrouds and stays … maybe make the holes a bit too big. 
 
The general rule I read about for rigging sequence is “Inboard-to-outboard and fore-to-aft. “  Belaying a line on a pin on the fife rail after the shrouds and ratlines are in place ( that is, doing all running rigging after all standing rigging) can be challenging, tho that’s what I did on my first build. On my current builds I’m experimenting with installing rigging as much as I can onto the masts and spars off-ship prior to stepping the masts into the hull, then firming up standing rigging, then tightening up on running rigging. Like I say:  I am experimenting with that process. Here’s a pic 

We shall see how that works. Might wind up in the trash some day. 

Ok, just one more tip then I’ll return your log to you:
 
I could never get the footropes on the yards to look good using any sort of thread .. they just wouldn’t hang right. I found using fine brass wire and then carefully painting it had a much more pleasing effect. 
 
Good luck. 

Will be following with interest. 
I love that kit. It was my first Model Shipways build. Since it is of a fictitious boat, you can do anything you want to it and nobody can criticize you for being historically inaccurate.  Here’s one I finished several years ago, and two more variations on the theme in progress 
Have fun. 

Not alot of progress on the boat. I did spend some time on a few tools I found in Grandad's roll top desk I inherited. He was a carpenter, house painter and during WWII he was a marine pipefitter in the ship yard at Portland OR. They were pretty mankey and some rust but a week long soak in penetrating oil, wire wheel in a dremel, steel wool and emory paper did a good job. Still a bit stiff but should loosen up with use.

Fixed it. Finished the bow section and now onto the transom extension pieces. That is about as far as I can go until I get the waterline drawing jig and the rest of my supplies.

Ooopppsss! Crud!!!! Slipped with the gouge. The good thing is I had just swept the floor so it was easy to find the chunk that was removed and glue it back in. Break time while it dries.

Ahoy all! I decided to make an attempt at a build log for my Dapper Tom build.  It is my first wooden ship kit but my experience with carpentry and building plastic models, I should be able to muddle through. I have a long way to go to learn the shipwright's vernacular even though I am a retired sailor, they got rid of sail powered ships a few months before I enlisted. ;O) I started this past weekend with setting up a small table in the corner of the garage and hung 2 shop lights for lighting. I re-enforced the paper templates from the kit by gluing them with an industrial glue stick to a plastic exit sign I bought at a dollar store. I pressed them overnight between a couple of books with bottles of wine on them for weight.  They were cut out with a box cutter and straight edge and sanded to the template line with a sanding stick.  This turned out very well and allowed me to form 2/3 of the hull on Saturday and I finished the roughing out on Sunday, followed by sanding with 80/100/120/200 grit paper in successive steps. I finished off Sunday evening with some Titan Marine Primer. Hopefully I can make more progress this coming weekend. Cheers, and a tot of rum for the crew!

I have worked on planking the bulwarks. Based on some educated guesses, general dimensions from for example the cross-section plan I showed earlier, and photos, I decided on 1mm thick and 4 mm wide planks.
 
First, I added the "outside" of the waterways, which protrudes a bit from the hull side. The bulwark stanchions from the bulkhead prevent adding the plank properly.
 

Since I will replace the plywood stanchions from the bulkheads, I put tape to prevent glue from sticking.
 

And now the last plank is installed.
 

 

Well, I finally got sick of staring at the card mockups for the superstructures, and decided to have a crack at making them in styrene (or HIPS - High-Impact PolyStyrene) to be precise. I bought a shed load of this when I semi-scratch built my HMS Cottesmore, and it's been sitting tucked down the back of my boat desk since then.
 
I printed the CAD designs I'd put together - the original idea was to photo-etch it - and pritt-sticked the design onto the plastic. The shape was then cut out in two levels. The arches in 0.5mm plastic, and the main sides of the superstructure in 1mm.
 
I tried to make the corners with styrene tube cut into quarters (as difficult to do as it sounds!), and quickly decided it wasn't going to be accurate enough. So I then purchased 3.5mm quarter round evergreen styrene to fit into the corners. A base was designed that would help give the structure strength, make sure it was square, and act as the floor inside the cabin.
 
I've been through a few x-acto blades, and I'm never going to rival the masters on this forum, such as @Hubac's Historian, but I'm pretty happy with the results so far. I'm hoping to put a black and white floor in and part-opened doors, along with scale portholes, which I may well need to photo-etch, as the ones I've seen to purchase look to me over scale.
 
Here is the progress so far...
 
Cutting out the parts...
 

 

 

 
And assembling them - this took two attempts as the first attempt ended up warped. I took it apart and assembled it more carefully, ensuring that the base plate was glued evenly. NOTE: The base plate needs to be raised off the deck a little for two reasons. One the deck curves from fore to aft, and two, because there is the king plank on the deck that passes through the cabin underneath the floor.
 

 

 

 
And a shot of the Barque as she stands - apologies for the quality of this shot, but the lighting was awful. I'll try and get some better ones soon.
 

 
Aft cabin next, but that's one for another day.
 
Happy building
 
Rob

Hi all,
 
A very quick update... I turned the capstan on the lathe this evening from 12mm walnut.
 

 
I left a small peg on the bottom to sit in a hole drilled in the platform.
 

 
The result...
 

 
And an overview of the deck of Stefano as she stands... 
 

 

Complete the yawl boat
 
 
Sometimes we have to say enough and stop working on something. Today that was the yawl boat.
 
23 I went back to my friends at Bluejacket and bought a bunch of stuff.  Most was to build up supplies for the Aphrodite ship, but I got a few of their smallest propellers.  Here I have ground it down to fit on the yawl boat.
24 here is the stopping point.  I need to transport the schooner to a few sites this summer and there is no way to keep the yawl boat in place.   Moving the schooner, the other day I broke off the strong backs.    Yesterday I needed to remove a davit and broke it. Today I started rigging the blocks but if I do, I cannot remove the yawl boat. You can see the block engine cover and boxed shaft cover. I made up yokes and the little copper wire to hook the blocks to.  
25 here we see where the davit lines and hull lashing will eventually be made off the taft rail pins. 
26 here  it seems obvious that the block and tackle make a difference, so I will rig them and have them at least in place.  Lashing will wait till we are back home.
27  here we have the overview of the after deck and I feel this is better to have than the silly block and fake canvas i used last year. 
28 I end with the view showing her sail away. It reminds me that I don’t have the name on the transom yet.    We never really finish do we
 
Cheers

It's time to bring Charlie out again. I plan to record this as the final chapter in Charlies build and use. Maybe then I will say...completely finished
 
This summer I plan to give a few lectures on the four masted schooners of Boothbay.  Although Charlie was built in Bath in 1894 she is right there as to the size of the last several large schooners built here.  The boom years were 1919-1921.   During that spell, 10 Schooners were built right here.
 
Next fall and winter I plan for trying to organize a diorama showing one of the yards and two of the schooners. We shall be celebrating 100 years since the launching. That yard has been a great lobster wharf for many years.  i will start that as a new post later this year and hope to get other folks to build buildings and the lay out.
 
Here I will update the repairs and completion activities to get Charles Notman ready to show off, and some of the highlights of the history of these schooners here in the harbor.   If you go back to the first few posts in this log, i built Charlie to be a prototype.  I had hoped to build two sailing versions and get them to sail in the harbor.  The problem is they really do not sail well as RC.    Therefore I will move on and try to get some normal two masted schooners to sail as there are many examples of the success they have in RC. Boothbay had many pinky schooners and a large sardine and off shore fishing fleet to chose from
 
My punch list consists of the need to:
complete the starboard side shrouds.here i am splicing the first two of six to go. complete starboard ratlines..ugh lots of them repair yawl boat and its broken support clean and clean.. wow the dust  try to coil and hang lines. add a few missing windows and cabin details repair several lose lines and broken chains figure out transport.   complete some graphics for the display complete power point lecture
In conclusion I will include a few visuals of a few schooners i am fixing up for the new museum store. 
 
I believe just a little each day and it will be OK . I need to complete all by May
 
cheers 
 
jon 
 
 
 
 
 
 

post 36
 
start yawl boat and complete foresails
 
Moving along I find there are so many different tasks.  Each new task takes a time to start up.  Example is the yawl boat.   Last fall I decided to follow the lead of family members and switch from part windows, android and apple iPhone to all Apple.   Wow. It is not just a smooth move.  I kept my older windows set up in the shop so I could continue with the turbocad I owned.     Starting with the yawl boat, I had decided to buy turbocad for imac.  It is like studying French for three years and 20 years later moving to Brazil where French does not help with ones Portuguese.   I know that example as I lived it 10 years ago.  
 
I now have several guides and some friendly advice.  The apple version is very different from the windows version. First up is the yawl boat.    I will do it again in 3d, but to move forward at a reasonable pace I chose to work in 2d.   wow the apple version does not like 2d.     
 
318.    here is a printout.  Apple is definitely for the modern world and is not sympathetic to 2d.    nevertheless, I eventually got there.  I had 8 stations and the plan to work with.  I made up thick stations and added fillers to get close enough to the right lay out to move forward.    
319.    here after satisfying the set up….small mahogany transom included… I have prepped to add the ribs.  
320.    I soaked 1/32 ribs in water and let them dry before gluing.  Here the starboard side ribs are glued We’ll see how it comes out 
 
Rigging the fore sails......There are many different visuals to refer to when researching each part of either standing or running rigging to determine what material to replicate.  
321.   In this photo from the flyirails book one can pick up the sheets that wrap stays for the flying and outer jib were chain.   One sees here the small rings both on the stay or the flying jib luff that are laced.  Before jumping to emulate that detail, one sees the bob stays in this photo were spun steel cable.  On the Ada Cliff photos, one could see they were chain.  The omega hanks that I have assumed avoid the lacing of rings on either sail or stay.  I would imagine a pulling and stretching of the lines involved and a very difficult task to improve. The sail could pull back from the stay, not a good feature.     Therefore as others have said better than I , one needs to decide what makes the best sense and what therefore is to be modeled.  
322    I used the chain bob stays and the omega hanks and chain for forward section of these jib sheets. i will paint the chains for a galvanized look  
323.    here all the forward sails are in place and running lines are in and made fast. the ratlines are in as well.  
324    here looking at the fore mast top all parts are in place.  
325.   in this view one might note the farthest turnbuckle is unpainted.  That was the barrel I had to replace to get the little brass bar to fit.      
Ever onward.    Main mast is next when I get more blocks 
 

a little progress as the missing blocks came in
 
326.   the sixth sail , or i should say the main is bent....  i am now thinking that I may stretch out the boom tackles to see if that helps with sail shape.     i am nervous at this stage to treat the sails with more material.  despite the look they are delicate.
 
cheers 

This build is what I bought the AL Providence whaleboat for, I was going to kit bash it into the Henry Ramey Upcher.  But after getting all the dimensions for the lifeboat, it turned out easier to scratch build it, using Providence as a basic shape template. 
I've picked this subject because as a child, my grandparents spent  summers on the Norfolk coast at Sheringham and when my brothers and I visited, would take us to see it, this was before it even became part of the museum. As a parent myself, the Admiral and I have also taken my children there to see it, although they weren't as enthusiastic as I was!
I still go and have a look at her whenever I'm in Sheringham. 
A little  bit of background info:
The text below is courtesy of
National Historic Ships UK 
 
HISTORY 
 
HENRY RAMEY UPCHER is a lifeboat of clinker built oak construction. She was built in 1894 by Lewis Emery at Sheringham and was powered by oars and sail. The vessel takes its name from the Upcher family of Sheringham Hall who provided the privately-run boat to replace the town's first rescue vessel, the AUGUSTA.  She was known locally as the Fisherman's Lifeboat and operated as an independent lifeboat with a crew of local fisherman, there being other RNLI lifeboats in service at Sheringham at the time. Launching was a community effort requiring considerable manpower.
The vessel was propelled by 16 oars, occasionally requiring two men to each oar.  She could also carry a main lug sail and a mizzen sail. During her service she was launched 61 times and saved 202 lives. Her most famous rescue was of the crew of the brig ISPOLEN in 1897 during the most ferocious storm for decades when her coxswain, Tom Barnes Cooper, was over 70 years old.
After her withdrawal from service in 1935 she was launched for the Sheringham regattas and other festive occasions. She is now on display in an indoor museum in Sheringham.
Key dates
1894 Vessel was built by Lewis Emery at Sheringham 1897 Rescue of the brig ISPOLEN during a storm 1935 Withdrawn from service as lifeboat
 
DIMENSIONS
Breadth: Beam 11.25 feet (3.43 m) Depth 4.33 feet (1.32 m) Length: Overall 34.75 feet (10.60 m)     At 1:25 scale the model is just over 400mm long, 130mm wide and 52mm depth  The skeleton has been cut from 6mm liteply, they are only dry fitted at the moment. 
The reason for starting from scratch, quite a lot bigger, both the same scale!
I know this is a bit nichè but is a fond memory of my childhood by the sea. 
Thanks for looking in.
Cheers.

Wow, I have learned a lot about CA glue. If you are following along to this point then you hopefully have a pretty good understanding of what CA glue is and how it works. In this next post I want to take the opportunity to discuss just a bit more the chemistry and then talk about the differences between CA glue types and finally bonding. Personally I have always thought the best way to fully understand a topic is to understand the theory supporting it, and so the best way to understand CA glue is to understand the individual components that make up the glue and what happens when it comes out the bottle.  
 
One thing I meant to cover in my last post that was covered earlier was shear strength, in ship model building a lot of joints experience shear stress, for instance when you glue planks to a bulkhead or frame, the glue that holds them together is experiencing shear stress. This topic of shear stress and CA glue gets complicated very quickly, but to hopefully summarize, shear stress is the force experienced when both compressional stress and friction are acting on an object. Imagine a deck of cards on a table, if you apply shear stress to the top card, it will slide forward while the card touching the table stays still. I made an attempt at learning about shear stress in glues and adhesives and I came across three methods that have been discovered to increase shear strength of CA glue. The first is the metallization of the surface the glue is being applied to by integrating chromium nanorods in a 50nm thick layer, basically microscopic rods of chromium are “painted” onto the surface of the object being glued then CA glue is applied on top. I have no idea why this works, but its sounds far to difficult and expensive to work for this hobby so that is out. Another method I stumbled across is the introduction of amines, AKA ammonium hydroxide, another very harmful substance, literally a few breaths of the stuff will kill you, so I suppose that method is out for now as well. The final method I came across is the addition of rubber. I should say now that rubber is not the additive in CA that makes it thicker, I will talk about that in a bit. The addition of rubber changes the glue all together, bringing the color from clear to black, but there is an issue with this stuff, it only works on non porous surfaces like glass, but it seems to work well for that application if you need it. Once again we are at square one, and it seems for the time being that the shear strength of CA glue cannot be improved on surfaces like wood. Maybe one day. Last note about shear strength, thick CA glue exhibits a really interesting chemical property that explains why CA glue does terrible in the presence of shear stress. Thick CA glue imparts thixotropic properties, which basically means, its is usually in a solid state, unless it experiences shear stress, where for some crazy reason that I could figure out, it turns to a liquid! Well sort of, under normal conditions as shear stress decreases the viscosity of CA glue increases (cures) but when put under shear stress the viscosity of CA glue actually decreases, which drastically decreases the bonding strength of the adhesive. So the more stress CA glue is under, the more viscous it becomes, which is a bad thing.
 
Let’s finally talk more about ship modeling. If you were to jump on Amazon or a site like ModelExpo and search “CA glue” you will get a ton of results for all sorts of applications, how do you figure out which one works for you? Ultimately it will always come down to your personal preference and what you find works, but generally there are a few options to chose from. While any CA glue or super glue will work fine for wood adhesion, there are generally a few different thicknesses that you can chose from, all of which have different application in the modeling world. The thickener in CA glue is silicon dioxide, AKA quartz, and as you can imagine, the more SO2 that is added, the thicker the glue. There are certain brands of CA that replace the SO2 with calcium oxide, which creates a thick clear glue that when dries, closely resembles mortar, which is super strong. From what I have researched, it does not appear that the thickness of CA glue correlates with an increased shear strength. 
 
CA glue with no SO2 is called super thin or thin CA glue, this stuff is basically water, once it leaves the bottle it will spread out into a very thin layer, deeply soak into the wood and instantly cure, creating a super tight chemical bond. This type of CA is guaranteed to leave a stain behind, I have never not had a stain after using the stuff, keep this in mind when modeling. If the piece you are gluing is going to be seen I would not use super thin CA as it is nearly impossible to remove. Medium thickness CA like James mentioned does a great job for certain applications like second planking. Medium thickness CA does well because the viscosity of the glue is enough to prevent the glue from spreading to thin, as well as keeping the glue from soaking to deep in the pores of the wood. I havnt used enough medium thickness and thick CA glue to know whether or not there will be a significant glue stain, I have actually never used thick CA glue so I dont have much to say about that topic. 
 
One of my final subjects on this topic is the idea of bonding, which is what occurs during the curing process. When CA glue is applied and the chemical reaction is over, the bond that formed between your two pieces of wood closely resembles plastic. Often this plastic like bond between two pieces of wood is stronger than the wood itself, meaning in thinner or smaller pieces or weaker woods like basswood, you will probably break the wood before breaking the bond. I would guess the number one question asked about CA glue is how you remove the stain left behind after curing, and the answer is you cant get rid of it. You can debond the glue and chemically separate the two pieces, but you cannot remove the glue. Imagine a piece of wood, you fill the pores with CA glue which discolors the surface, and you want to remove it, in order to remove it you would have to clean out the pores of the wood which I’m not sure is possible. CA glue does have a life span btw, about a year from the manufacturer date, or a month or two after opening, how ever before opening if refrigerated you can extend the life span by about 6 months. If you drop the temperature below 0 F you can almost stop the chemical reaction from happening all together, increasing the life span indefinitely. CA glue can bond with other stuff as well, to create a different substance all together, mixing it with the saw dust of the species you are working with creates a very strong and light filler. Alternatively you can mix CA with baking soda to create a very light and very strong filler.
 
After reading about CA as much as I have today I would have to disagree that CA is the Devils spittle. CA glue is every where, it holds your shoes together, a lot of furniture incorporates the glue, turns out if you add some stuff it becomes antimicrobial and can be used to seal lacerations. It’s used as a temporary bond while welding, and is the primary adhesive in most implantable medical devices. It bonds metal, wood, leather, paper, and pretty much any other porous material, its cheap, easy to acquire and dries instantly. It may not be the best adhesive for ship modeling but I think it has its place, just like every tool. My very last point, CA glue is a chemical just like any other chemical and should be handled appropriately. It should be stored in a cool dry place avoiding direct sunlight to extend the life span. 
 
My next post is a collection of tests that I am going to preform on different common wood species. I want to test different methods of removing CA wood stain, I also want to test different stains and paints on wood and how CA glue effects those paints. I’m mostly interested in ways to cover CA glue stain, and ill share my findings with all of you. 
 
Thank you for spending the time to read through my research on this glue, I hope that this collection of information proves useful for those that may be just entering this hobby or for any who may be unsure about the product.  
Bradley 

With Roger's added reference of the book, The Sharpie Book, by Reuel Parker, I now have a much better understanding of the rigging of this vessel. I repeat the quote from an email I received from Reuel Parker here about the bow sprit rigging which was most puzzling to me until his revelations:
 
[The forestay rove through a sheave in the bowsprit is a typical Chesapeake Bay arrangement, but there is usually an outer forestay with conventional bobstay beyond the inner forestay, whose function is to support the mast and carry a “spectacle iron” from which lazy jacks are suspended to contain the club foot boom and furled jib. This is absent here, so there is only the single forestay. The “car” on top of the bowsprit allows tensioning and releasing the club foot jib boom, which is absent in the photo. The car arrangement was commonly used on schooners. The inhaul lanyard is missing, but the outhaul lanyard is in place. There is a gooseneck on top of the car for the missing boom. The traveler on deck is for the jib sheet, which would be attached to the aft end of the club foot jib boom; the block at the front of the mast is for a fairlead for the jib sheet.
 
The cheek blocks on each side of the bowsprit are anchor rollers.
 
You might refer to Chapelle’s “American Small Sailing Craft” and his booklet on Skipjacks for further information. Or my article in Professional Boatbuilder Magazine last summer on Bowsprits.]
 
In his book he also describes on pages 143 and 144 the "car" or traveler arrangement for a San Juan 36 foot Sharpie. the only difference here is that the club or boom is 'fairlead back to the cockpit coaming for control by the helm. This would be difficult on the Florida Sharpie as the deck would have been laden with catch making the fairlead difficult to control I suspect.
 
So the picture has indeed opened up. As I suspected the cheek blocks have nothing to do with the "car" or traveler. So that is no longer a point of confusion. Further I have to consider his advice on the fore stay comments and the missing irons. I have contacted Wooden Boat to get a reprint of the article he suggests and should be getting that soon.