tarbrush

Hi all. The original deck was really looking sub-standard and was really getting me down! The more I did to it to fix it, the worse it got. So, I ditched it overboard and built a new one; this time, I left even more of the deck exposed for the internals to be seen.
 
Hope you enjoy the photos. The first photo has the old deck next to it (destined for the scrap wood pile). The other photos show the bulkeads glued in place, in readiness for the cabins, etc to be built around them.

Hi everyone! Back again. Progress has been slow, but, I've started on the internal bulheads. This is the part that I really love, because I always see it as a real challenge to try to fit in as much detail as possible, yet being mindful of how small everything will be. Nonetheless, that's the fun of it, isn't it?
 
Pictured below are the bulkheads, with their panelling and doorways cut out ( in readiness for the doors). Some photos show the bulkheads temporaily sitting in their respective pats of the hull. This gives you some indication of how it's all coming together.
 
Pls bear in mind that some of the bulkheads such those of the galley and crews quarters will be painted white; whilst the staterooms and grand saloon will be done in wood, reminiscent of the rich panelling and decor of a luxurious mega yacht of its day.
 
The deck has also been nearly completed. It now features the diagonal bracing which Hereshoff would have designed to give the steel hull additional strength.
 
By the way, there's still a lot of cleaning up and finessing to be done, especially to the underside of the deck which look a bit rough at this stage. All in good time, though.
 
I hope you enjoy the progress so far!

Thanks Elmer Cornish and everyone else!
 
Here are some of the latest photos. The first few show the hull with the deck template and the side of the hull being prepared for opening up, so that the internal accommodation can be eventually viewed. The rest of the photos show the hull after the frames have been cutaway. Luckily the hull is structurally strong enough to withstand the hull's side being cut open in such a way. Not for the faint hearted, because, once it's cut, there's no turning back!
 
Anyhow, enjoy the photos.
 
Cheers

Hi all
 
Just finished plating the starboard side of the hull. The port side is only partially plated (ie only plated at the bow and stern) because the frames inbetween the bow and stern will be cutaway so that the internal accommodation can be viewed. Hope this makes sense. If not, then it will all start to make sense as progress continues!
 
Needless to say, also, the hull requires fair bit of fairing and sanding to get it perfectly smooth. Once done, then the hull will eventually be painted.
 
Hope you enjoy the photos.
 
Cheers

Hi everyone
 
Well, tonight I finished building the bent frames! It's a tedious job, but the effect is worth it in the end. At least now, Ingomar's hull finally looks like it's taking shape.
 
What's even more important is the fact that I was able to remove the hull from the building jig and build a working stand for her to sit upright in. The hull looks a bit rough around the sheer line, but that's only because it requires trimmimg, sanding etc.
 
The next job will be to do the planking and then cut out the sides of the hull so that the interior accommodation can be viewed. Long way to go, no doubt.
 
I hope you enjoy the photos.

Happy Easter everyone!!!! I hope all of you that celebrate Easter have a wonderful festive season. To everyone else, have a great day, too.
 
Here are the latest photos of Ingomar. I've used platicard strips to simulate the frames, which, as you can see, look reasonably convincing. Once the side of the hull is completely "framed" using this method, I'll then set about selectively framing up the other side of the hull, whilst leaving large parts of that side of the hull unframed; thereby resulting in large open areas to view the internal accommodation. The trick is to make sure that the hull remains structurally rigid once it is removed from the jig. Afterall, leaving too much open on one side of the hull could result in a warped hull. So, it's always a balancing act, but the rewards are worthwhile.
 
Anyhow, hope you enjoy the photos. Comments and feedback are always welcomed.
 
Cheers!

Hi all. Recently, after finishing my miniature model of "Dorade" I started on my new model, a 1/192 scale model of the 54m long schooner "Ingomar". Built in 1903 and designed by Nathaniel Herreshoff, Ingomar was one of the fastest and most successful racing schooners of its day. Such is the beauty of this boat, that it has been recreated now by Graafships; the only problem being that the person funding the project, unfortunately ran out of money and only the hull has been built. The hull is currently for sale. Hopefully someone rich enough will buy the hull and complete the project; thereby creating a modern full size version of this beautiful ship. Any rich people out there?
 
Anyhow, back to my model! Given the small size of the hull (13 cms approx), I agonised about what sort of material the hull should be built from. Whatever I chose had to be structurally strong enough to be cut into small enough strips to simulate the frames, etc. Also, the fact that the full sized ship was steel framed, basically meant that I couldn't use wood. Much to my distaste, I reluctantly settled on plasticard to build the keel and hull! I've always shied away from plasticard, but this time, it was the only logical choice. I will paint the hull's frames and keel later to make it look like it authentic.
 
The hull will be built with as much of the internal accommodation as possible installed in the hull and visible through large cutaways of the hull and exposed deck beams.
 
I hope you enjoy the photos. More photos will follow as work progresses.

FINISHED! I decided to add a stern lantern to finish it off. There are still a number of errors but I am fairly satisfied how it came out. I want to thank everyone for all the loos & likes during the build.The problem now is where to put it - it`s almost 4 ft long. An even bigger problem is deciding what to build next I will try to put a few more pics in the gallery.
 

 

 

 
 

 
/Mark

Hey guys I'm doing part 4 at the moment and found that there is a gap between the rib and part number 15 on both sides just wondering if any1 else has this aswell or I've stuffed up again cheers

Greetings one and all.  I got to spend a great deal of quality time during May with the Emma C. Berry.  All frames have now been installed, and temporary batten installed along the deck line for support.  This will eventually be removed as the inside structure is installed.
 
The crew at the shipyard has been working hard on the frames and also on improving the build yard.
 

 
Unfortunately, the tide was rising more rapidly than they anticipated necessitating a relocation in the shipyard. (Yes, I am embarrassed to say, I did discover that she does float).
 

 
After a quick repositioning for one last bow-on shot. Note I will need to do a bit of work on the aft 4 frames on the starboard side (you may be able to pick out the flat spot near the stern_
 

 
Exercising great amounts of hindsight, the photo shoot relocated to higher ground.
 

 
And one final shot - I thought the shadows were interesting in this one.
 

 
And so, for the month of June, I will return my attentions to the Essex.
 
Appreciate any suggestions or observations on how to improve the lines on this lady.
 
 

Hey guys the name is greg I'm from goldcoast Australia and this is the first ever build I've done which is the black pearl I've already have issues 1-3 and will be getting issues 4-7 this week I know that people on different sites don't agree with these type of partworks but the way I see it is that I get distracted very easily and with the 120 spread over 120 weeks I should be able to complete this I've been watching YouTube and have Been following Callum's build (06callum06) which has been very helpful so if he sees this thanks mate. I'll be starting another build probably next week which is a titanic week by week by deagostini which I was able to pick up all 100 issues for only $350 all unopened
So if any 1 has any hints or tips please let me know cheers guys thes are some pics of what I've done
 

 

 

 

I made some bands for the pumps with card stock and "bolted" them on. The pumps aren't glued in yet. Next come the handles, or heavers.
 
Steve

Thanks for the comments and likes, gentlemen. Finally had time to finish the capstan. I had a bit of trouble with the Blacken It, took 3 attempts to get it right. This has never happened before. 24 hours after the second attempt, there were large patches of of a pale green powder, which rubbed off easily enough, but the rubbing caused some of the blacking to flake off.
 

 
Grant.
 
 

Thanks David and John. Capstan V2.0 was worth the extra work, it's much better looking than the original. The whelps were made from some 1mm wire filed down to half its thickness, cut to length and drilled to take locating pins. Contact cement was used to hold the whelps to the capstan whilst drilling. The loop of wire used to make the pins made it easier to solder and gave me something to grip while finishing the shape of the whelps. I ended up having to use a full size oxy/acetylene torch to heat it up (my little butane torch was way "under powered"), I think it was slightly overcooked as the solder left some rough patches around the whelps. They have been mostly scraped/rubbed out, but are still slightly visible.
 

 
Grant.

A little more progress - all yards mounted. just a few more lines left like braces,anchors,flags,& a few misc.items.note the hooks & rings on the lower end of the mizzen lateen yard - I think this is correct.That light at the end of the tunnel is getting brighter...........
 

 

 

 

 
/Mark

ah, the joys of edge bending. On my current build I wanted to edge bend the main rail. I made a jig that worked quite well. First I took a piece of pine board and traced the shape of the rail on it. then I added a bit more curvature to allow for springback. After I cut the jig to shape I ran it through my table saw edgeways to saw a groove in it that was a little less than the width of the rail. Next, steam bend the rail. Lastly place the steamed plank in the jig and clamp it in. I allowed it to dry overnight and the next day had a nicely bent rail. As it turned out I had allowed for more springback than there actually was but still it glued up just fine.

Shot of my one lone deadeye prototype placed in the rail against the paneling;  hopefully most imperfections will be drowned out when all these little fellows are installed.  (Along with belaying pins, rigging, etc. etc.
 
Topgallent rail has yet to be installed.

I am uploading the rest of my pictures, the new log required a little bit more life to it.   
 
Sorry that the time line does twist a little bit back and forth.
 
/Alfons
 

Work on the forecastle is now proceeding. First up was to plank the small bit of inner bulwark with boxwood. After that, I proceeded to do the hances and cap rail. For the hances, I again used the laser cut kit pieces for the carved end and fitted them to the rails which were cut from boxwood sheet, using card stock templates. 
 
As I generally do, the rail assemblies were prepainted black on the edges before mounting to avoid the need for masking. The rail tops were painted in place.  BTW, I am not among the 10 -20 coat painters. For better or worse, I am satisfied with 4-5 coats, particularly with black.
 
After the rails were done, I made the galley stove stack and the forecastle barricade and belfry. The stack was made from styrene tube with wire handles. The barricade and belfry were made from boxwood, with the exception of using the laser cut rail piece from the kit, because it had the square openings for the stanchions cut into it, and I used two shaped stanchions that I had on hand to support the belfry itself. The bell is a brass piece that I had on hand.
 
I'm now moving on to the remaining forecastle work.
 
Bob

Hello all. another little update - fore & main yards mounted & rigged except for the braces - they will be last. Tried to get pictures with a dark background so the light rigging shows up better.The running rigging is a little too light colored but I am not going to re-do it.
 

 

 

 

 
/Mark
 
 

Ladies and Gents...  
 
(Actually - I have not detected any Ladies following this build so we're all free to belch and scratch without fear of retribution...)
 
Thank you all for the kindness of your remarks.
 
Here is where the job stands after some time spent on the half hulls:
 






 
You'll see that I've done a fair amount of work on the underside and have the foundation in place for the gun stripe and red port sills.
 

 
I started by giving the underside a light coat of Vallejo Air Copper as a base.  I then began to randomly mix different blends of Vallejo Air Copper, Vallejo Hammered Copper, Microlux Air Roof Brown, and MicroLux Grimy Black in small batches and applied using some disposable micro brushes (Model Expo).  I would slink out to the workshop whenever I had an odd 15 or 20 minutes to spend filling in individual plates... After a week or so I had most of the two half hulls done.  A final (obligatory) coat of Vallejo Sepia Wash was then applied and - as with the decking - quickly wiped down with a clean soft cloth.  This had multiple good effects: It knocked down the shine, helped to blend all of the contrasting colors, highlighted some of the plate seams, and - most importantly - removed just enough paint to "expose" the riveting and define the edges of the plates.  I had to press down firmly when wiping it down to get an even exposure of the riveting.
 
The gun stripe was masked off a bit wider than the final dimension to allow some overlap and a cleaner line once the black is laid down.  After a base coat of Vallejo Air Interior Yellow (A near equivalent to Floquil Depot Buff), a thin layer of Vallejo Sepia wash (the old standby) was applied and lightly wiped down to leave a good patina behind.  This deepened the color enough to generally match what is seen in the Corne paintings.  Next I masked off everything except the gun port sills and airbrushed a few coats of Vallejo Air Ferrari Red.  I wanted the red to be deep and eye-catching.  None of this wimpy wannabe red... It looks blood red in the paintings and that's what will be on the model!  Still a few more detail touch ups remain, but it is almost there.
 
Here is the discarded tape used for masking just one of the half hulls!

 
I have not done much in the last week or so.  I thoroughly gunked up my very cheap airbrush and decided to invest in something more substantial.  I'm tired of constantly stripping it all down to clean after every small paint session.  Once done I can attack the black part of the hull.
 
Thanks to all for your continued interest!
Evan

Hello all.I managed to finish the bowsprit rigging - resembles a spider web. Would be much easier if I had 3 hands.
 

 

 

 

 
/Mark

Thanks for the responses guys - honestly because my time is so limited - maybe a more complicated full frame build is not the answer - but rather an easier subject where I will see payoff a lot sooner - and I can focus on improving the fundamentals (planking, metal work, rigging, and possibly sail making etc). 
 
I've had my eye on this beauty for some time - Frolich built this one and called it a "ship modelers holiday" between lengthy builds in "The Art of Ship Modeling"  The price is about the same as enlarged plans of Le Gros Ventre @ 1/36th
 
http://www.editions-ancre.com/Product.aspx?ID=3807269&L=EN
 
Thanks for chiming in Mike - you know my world right now !!! 
Chris

Lower masts
The three lower masts were made up next profiling as necessary and the fore and main having the sides filed for the cheeks to be added, they were then painted and the metal bands added I used black plastic insulation tape as seen in the photos, the cheeks and front fish, were added and also the hounds and bibs which are in one piece they then had the wooling added and the bands to the top square section, I have also started making the tops.







Tops

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 76 –Middle Deck Framing
 
Since the last post eight middle deck beams and one pair of half beams have been installed – along with their hanging knees and pillars.  Lodging knees will follow.  The first picture shows the first four beams and two pillars installed.
 

 
The beams are glued bolted to the clamps with copper wire - epoxied in.  There will also be copper wire bolts through the beams into the tops of each hanging knee for extra strength.  The pillars are reinforced with wire into the beams top and bottom.
 
The next picture shows the first of the carlings installed.
 

 
These are going in after the pillars to leave space for fitting those.  In the next picture, the next beam has been glued in and is awaiting its hanging knees. 
 

 
Once the beams are in place to support the clamp over the view openings, they can be cut out – as in the above picture.  The next picture shows the first two of three openings cut into the forward view area.
 

 
The next picture shows those openings from the inside.  This area is now ready for the headers around the fore mast and the half beams to those headers.
 

 
The areas below the middle deck are having wax finish applied progressively as the work above is finished. In the next picture the two headers and half beams have been installed astride the fore mast opening,
 

 
The beam, knee and pillar bolts mentioned above were also in when this picture was taken. The last picture shows the current extent of the work completed.
 

 
This work is going faster than the lower deck framing, mainly because there are no knees on the pillars.  Patterns for the middle deck knees were also lofted more carefully using a different process - meaning the initial fits are better.  Also, deferring the lodging knees is probably more efficient.
 
 
 Ed