rvchima

Boat Beams
The manual says that if the rear beam hits the chain pump handle you can cut a little notch in the beam. Mine hit way too much for that so I gave it a good twist. It would never go around but no one will be able to tell. The handles definitely should be smaller.

Upper Decks, Railings, Cathead, Binnacle, and Drumhead Capstan
The fore and aft upper decks and railings are all complete. The aft deck took a little shaping but the forward deck dropped right into place. As before, I stained the decks with Minwax Golden Oak. The belfry, stove chimney, and some belaying pin racks are also done.

The stanchions for the quarterdeck railings are flat and need to be sanded round. I chucked them in a rotary tool and hit them with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel and taped to a stick.

Here's a view of that railing with the drum head capstan behind it and some more ladders nearby.

A lot of parts in this kit are PE brass that are typically cast metal or wood in other kits - eyebolts, belaying pins, etc. I had my doubts about them at first, but frankly they look just fine. However the ship's wheel is three pieces of PE glued up and it looks pretty flat. I considered buying a better wheel but would have had to resize the drum to make it fit, so I stuck with the PE. The binnacle is very nice.

Catheads - from the manual: "The holes in the bulwark are deliberately left smaller than required for alignment and part integrity when assembling. You will now need to open these up to fit the catheads. Use small files and a sharp blade to open these up to size." Easier said than done. I spent a couple of hours on each side filing those slots to within a hair of the railing and deck before those pieces would fit.

 

Boat Beams
The manual says that if the rear beam hits the chain pump handle you can cut a little notch in the beam. Mine hit way too much for that so I gave it a good twist. It would never go around but no one will be able to tell. The handles definitely should be smaller.

Upper Decks, Railings, Cathead, Binnacle, and Drumhead Capstan
The fore and aft upper decks and railings are all complete. The aft deck took a little shaping but the forward deck dropped right into place. As before, I stained the decks with Minwax Golden Oak. The belfry, stove chimney, and some belaying pin racks are also done.

The stanchions for the quarterdeck railings are flat and need to be sanded round. I chucked them in a rotary tool and hit them with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel and taped to a stick.

Here's a view of that railing with the drum head capstan behind it and some more ladders nearby.

A lot of parts in this kit are PE brass that are typically cast metal or wood in other kits - eyebolts, belaying pins, etc. I had my doubts about them at first, but frankly they look just fine. However the ship's wheel is three pieces of PE glued up and it looks pretty flat. I considered buying a better wheel but would have had to resize the drum to make it fit, so I stuck with the PE. The binnacle is very nice.

Catheads - from the manual: "The holes in the bulwark are deliberately left smaller than required for alignment and part integrity when assembling. You will now need to open these up to fit the catheads. Use small files and a sharp blade to open these up to size." Easier said than done. I spent a couple of hours on each side filing those slots to within a hair of the railing and deck before those pieces would fit.

 

Boat Beams
The manual says that if the rear beam hits the chain pump handle you can cut a little notch in the beam. Mine hit way too much for that so I gave it a good twist. It would never go around but no one will be able to tell. The handles definitely should be smaller.

You can give the wheel a few coats of spray primer, white or red oxide. This does help round off the edges. Wooden wheels are always way too thick and out of scale for 64th, metal ones almost as bad, and 3-d printed versions too fragile. (in my experience, at least - same applies to belaying pins)

Upper Decks, Railings, Cathead, Binnacle, and Drumhead Capstan
The fore and aft upper decks and railings are all complete. The aft deck took a little shaping but the forward deck dropped right into place. As before, I stained the decks with Minwax Golden Oak. The belfry, stove chimney, and some belaying pin racks are also done.

The stanchions for the quarterdeck railings are flat and need to be sanded round. I chucked them in a rotary tool and hit them with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel and taped to a stick.

Here's a view of that railing with the drum head capstan behind it and some more ladders nearby.

A lot of parts in this kit are PE brass that are typically cast metal or wood in other kits - eyebolts, belaying pins, etc. I had my doubts about them at first, but frankly they look just fine. However the ship's wheel is three pieces of PE glued up and it looks pretty flat. I considered buying a better wheel but would have had to resize the drum to make it fit, so I stuck with the PE. The binnacle is very nice.

Catheads - from the manual: "The holes in the bulwark are deliberately left smaller than required for alignment and part integrity when assembling. You will now need to open these up to fit the catheads. Use small files and a sharp blade to open these up to size." Easier said than done. I spent a couple of hours on each side filing those slots to within a hair of the railing and deck before those pieces would fit.

 

Quarterdeck Beams Installed - 308 Hours, 122 Days
This was another satisfying task. I added the optional hanging knee braces below the beams, sanded most of the laser char, and finished all the pear wood with Watco oil stain. Yes, I know most of this won't be seen, but the pear wood is just so pretty that I can't resist.

Upper Decks, Railings, Cathead, Binnacle, and Drumhead Capstan
The fore and aft upper decks and railings are all complete. The aft deck took a little shaping but the forward deck dropped right into place. As before, I stained the decks with Minwax Golden Oak. The belfry, stove chimney, and some belaying pin racks are also done.

The stanchions for the quarterdeck railings are flat and need to be sanded round. I chucked them in a rotary tool and hit them with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel and taped to a stick.

Here's a view of that railing with the drum head capstan behind it and some more ladders nearby.

A lot of parts in this kit are PE brass that are typically cast metal or wood in other kits - eyebolts, belaying pins, etc. I had my doubts about them at first, but frankly they look just fine. However the ship's wheel is three pieces of PE glued up and it looks pretty flat. I considered buying a better wheel but would have had to resize the drum to make it fit, so I stuck with the PE. The binnacle is very nice.

Catheads - from the manual: "The holes in the bulwark are deliberately left smaller than required for alignment and part integrity when assembling. You will now need to open these up to fit the catheads. Use small files and a sharp blade to open these up to size." Easier said than done. I spent a couple of hours on each side filing those slots to within a hair of the railing and deck before those pieces would fit.

 

Upper Decks, Railings, Cathead, Binnacle, and Drumhead Capstan
The fore and aft upper decks and railings are all complete. The aft deck took a little shaping but the forward deck dropped right into place. As before, I stained the decks with Minwax Golden Oak. The belfry, stove chimney, and some belaying pin racks are also done.

The stanchions for the quarterdeck railings are flat and need to be sanded round. I chucked them in a rotary tool and hit them with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel and taped to a stick.

Here's a view of that railing with the drum head capstan behind it and some more ladders nearby.

A lot of parts in this kit are PE brass that are typically cast metal or wood in other kits - eyebolts, belaying pins, etc. I had my doubts about them at first, but frankly they look just fine. However the ship's wheel is three pieces of PE glued up and it looks pretty flat. I considered buying a better wheel but would have had to resize the drum to make it fit, so I stuck with the PE. The binnacle is very nice.

Catheads - from the manual: "The holes in the bulwark are deliberately left smaller than required for alignment and part integrity when assembling. You will now need to open these up to fit the catheads. Use small files and a sharp blade to open these up to size." Easier said than done. I spent a couple of hours on each side filing those slots to within a hair of the railing and deck before those pieces would fit.

 

Upper Decks, Railings, Cathead, Binnacle, and Drumhead Capstan
The fore and aft upper decks and railings are all complete. The aft deck took a little shaping but the forward deck dropped right into place. As before, I stained the decks with Minwax Golden Oak. The belfry, stove chimney, and some belaying pin racks are also done.

The stanchions for the quarterdeck railings are flat and need to be sanded round. I chucked them in a rotary tool and hit them with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel and taped to a stick.

Here's a view of that railing with the drum head capstan behind it and some more ladders nearby.

A lot of parts in this kit are PE brass that are typically cast metal or wood in other kits - eyebolts, belaying pins, etc. I had my doubts about them at first, but frankly they look just fine. However the ship's wheel is three pieces of PE glued up and it looks pretty flat. I considered buying a better wheel but would have had to resize the drum to make it fit, so I stuck with the PE. The binnacle is very nice.

Catheads - from the manual: "The holes in the bulwark are deliberately left smaller than required for alignment and part integrity when assembling. You will now need to open these up to fit the catheads. Use small files and a sharp blade to open these up to size." Easier said than done. I spent a couple of hours on each side filing those slots to within a hair of the railing and deck before those pieces would fit.

 

Upper Decks, Railings, Cathead, Binnacle, and Drumhead Capstan
The fore and aft upper decks and railings are all complete. The aft deck took a little shaping but the forward deck dropped right into place. As before, I stained the decks with Minwax Golden Oak. The belfry, stove chimney, and some belaying pin racks are also done.

The stanchions for the quarterdeck railings are flat and need to be sanded round. I chucked them in a rotary tool and hit them with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel and taped to a stick.

Here's a view of that railing with the drum head capstan behind it and some more ladders nearby.

A lot of parts in this kit are PE brass that are typically cast metal or wood in other kits - eyebolts, belaying pins, etc. I had my doubts about them at first, but frankly they look just fine. However the ship's wheel is three pieces of PE glued up and it looks pretty flat. I considered buying a better wheel but would have had to resize the drum to make it fit, so I stuck with the PE. The binnacle is very nice.

Catheads - from the manual: "The holes in the bulwark are deliberately left smaller than required for alignment and part integrity when assembling. You will now need to open these up to fit the catheads. Use small files and a sharp blade to open these up to size." Easier said than done. I spent a couple of hours on each side filing those slots to within a hair of the railing and deck before those pieces would fit.

 

Upper Decks, Railings, Cathead, Binnacle, and Drumhead Capstan
The fore and aft upper decks and railings are all complete. The aft deck took a little shaping but the forward deck dropped right into place. As before, I stained the decks with Minwax Golden Oak. The belfry, stove chimney, and some belaying pin racks are also done.

The stanchions for the quarterdeck railings are flat and need to be sanded round. I chucked them in a rotary tool and hit them with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel and taped to a stick.

Here's a view of that railing with the drum head capstan behind it and some more ladders nearby.

A lot of parts in this kit are PE brass that are typically cast metal or wood in other kits - eyebolts, belaying pins, etc. I had my doubts about them at first, but frankly they look just fine. However the ship's wheel is three pieces of PE glued up and it looks pretty flat. I considered buying a better wheel but would have had to resize the drum to make it fit, so I stuck with the PE. The binnacle is very nice.

Catheads - from the manual: "The holes in the bulwark are deliberately left smaller than required for alignment and part integrity when assembling. You will now need to open these up to fit the catheads. Use small files and a sharp blade to open these up to size." Easier said than done. I spent a couple of hours on each side filing those slots to within a hair of the railing and deck before those pieces would fit.

 

I have the second in my new line up of alternative printed resin boats almost ready. This is a 24 and 26 foot launch, complete with windlass and davit.

Thanks Allen! Yes the wales will be installed later. With this kit comes a really nice laser cut wales with beautiful "hook and butt" planks pattern lasered in. I tossed with the idea to install it before the final planking, but it seamed safer to do it afterwards because it could damage in the planking process. And the manual also suggest to install it afterwards. Thanks for the explanation you included

That was my go to as well and it works very well.   Alternatively I found a hot air gun works more easily for me.   Either way, the methodology is the same and gets the job done.   There are a lot of choices of guns from Genesis to Bosch at reasonable prices from many stores or on line.
Allan

Ah that makes sense now indeed! Thanks a lot 😃

Those are the buntlines. If you were to add a sail to the yard, the line (knotted end) would be attached to the sail.
Tom

I agree with everyone - your planking is perfect, too nice to paint.
 
I used my electric plank bender the other day to fit one inner bulwark, and wouldn't you know it, I burned a finger pretty bad. I like to tease my son about all his football (soccer) injuries and now he's giving me grief about yet another model making injury.

I agree with everyone - your planking is perfect, too nice to paint.
 
I used my electric plank bender the other day to fit one inner bulwark, and wouldn't you know it, I burned a finger pretty bad. I like to tease my son about all his football (soccer) injuries and now he's giving me grief about yet another model making injury.

I agree with everyone - your planking is perfect, too nice to paint.
 
I used my electric plank bender the other day to fit one inner bulwark, and wouldn't you know it, I burned a finger pretty bad. I like to tease my son about all his football (soccer) injuries and now he's giving me grief about yet another model making injury.

I agree with everyone - your planking is perfect, too nice to paint.
 
I used my electric plank bender the other day to fit one inner bulwark, and wouldn't you know it, I burned a finger pretty bad. I like to tease my son about all his football (soccer) injuries and now he's giving me grief about yet another model making injury.

I agree with everyone - your planking is perfect, too nice to paint.
 
I used my electric plank bender the other day to fit one inner bulwark, and wouldn't you know it, I burned a finger pretty bad. I like to tease my son about all his football (soccer) injuries and now he's giving me grief about yet another model making injury.

I agree with everyone - your planking is perfect, too nice to paint.
 
I used my electric plank bender the other day to fit one inner bulwark, and wouldn't you know it, I burned a finger pretty bad. I like to tease my son about all his football (soccer) injuries and now he's giving me grief about yet another model making injury.

I agree with everyone - your planking is perfect, too nice to paint.
 
I used my electric plank bender the other day to fit one inner bulwark, and wouldn't you know it, I burned a finger pretty bad. I like to tease my son about all his football (soccer) injuries and now he's giving me grief about yet another model making injury.