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shipaholic
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Everything posted by shipaholic
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Yes Paul, that's because all the different versions of Endeavours stern are different people's interpretations of the one and only sketch of the stern by Sidney Parkinson Cheers Steve -
Still working on the shrouds, finished the main lower shrouds. Spent today making the rope and serving the mizzen shrouds. Here's a pic of the last deadeye turned in for the main shrouds.
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Hi Mike I can't find in any of the books I have that describes the fore top gallant shroud being served. They probably were for the same reason as the topmost and lower shrouds shrouds were - to prevent chafing by the sails. I will serve mine. I will stop pointing out faults in the AOTS, people treat it like the bible and get offended I think. Cheers Steve
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Hi Pat Yes you are correct, I just read the section in Lees, the top gallant futtock shrouds were seized to the futtock stave. It also says that dead eyes were not used after 1719. That was my main problem with the AOTS - I don't think thimbles and lashing on the top gallant shrouds is correct Cheers Steve
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Thanks Mike yes its interesting how each of us develop our own methods to achieve something. Whilst on the subject of the shrouds; Another one where I believe the AOTS is completely wrong. Marquardt states in his commentary that Endeavour had two topmast backstays because Cook wrote in his Journal that both backstays broken - hello! I think Cook might have meant both the starboard and port one. He has changed the size of the main mast deadeyes in his drawings to suit his argument. If you look at both of the original draughts there is only one small deadeye for the topmast backstay whereas AOTS shows two small deadeyes. Also (correct me if I'm wrong anyone) AOTS shows the wrong arrangement for the topgallant shrouds. The topgallant shrouds are led through holes in the trestle trees down around the futtock staves and down to the top where they are lashed to an eye secured around the lower topmast deadeyes. I think you guys must hate me for pointing out faults with AOTS, sorry Cheers Steve
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I bought some of the Syren cleats, they are better than the ones I made manually because they are laser cut and therefore uniform in shape. I am currently fitting the main shrouds.
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Great work Mike, yes the macro shots show detail you can't see with the naked eye and sometimes looks crap but you stand back from your model and think, **** that looks real! Cheers Steve
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Thanks Mike I am still deciding which way to go with the mainstay, I could be wrong but I think the replica vessel is the correct way, so I will probably do it like that, a collar around the bowsprit. I was going to do it like the AOTS and have even fitted a large eyebolt, but have changed my mind as I cannot find any reference other than the AOTS describing mainstay collars secured to eye bolts in the deck Cheers Steve
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I finally finished the foremast futtock shrouds today, then I started serving the mainmast shrouds.
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Thanks Mike The rope I used for the futtock shrouds and catharpins is the medium size dark brown thread supplied with the partwork, served. In the partwork instructions it's listed as 0.5mm thread Steve
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Thanks Pat Op? Hope it's not too serious. Cheers Steve
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I managed to get some time on the ship today. I finished the foremast catharpins and started making the futtock shrouds.
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Hi Dave Nice work on the hinges. You may have already thought of this but for the smaller hatches I made the hinges by looping brass wire around a nail in a piece of wood and then flattening the brass by lightly hammering it. Cheers Steve
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Thanks Mike There's some conversation between Dave Row and I in previous posts about the rope sizes. If you are using Syren rope the forestay is 1.37mm and the preventer stay is 1.14mm. The pendants are a bit smaller than the shrouds, about 1mm Steve
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Novel Way of Making a Stay Mouse
shipaholic replied to shipaholic's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Hi Bill Yes its like a Band-Aid, The brand I used is Elastoplast -
Novel Way of Making a Stay Mouse
shipaholic replied to shipaholic's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Thanks Druxey, yes it's 1:51 scale -
Thanks Dave, yes the stay is 1.58mm diam. perfect
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Yesterday I received the new rope I ordered from Chuck and its the right size for my stay. I spent the afternoon making the fore stay. I have put the details in a new post in the masting and rigging section for those interested in how I did the mouse. I am happy with the result and using the correct size rope means it doesn't look too bulky at the mast head. Cheers Steve
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Hi everyone I stumbled apon this when trying to think of a way to make the mouse on the mast stays look realistic without having to weave the cover to get that knittled look. Here is a photo of the actual mouse for the Endeavour replica vessel I am using rope from Syren Model Ship Co for the stay, it is cable laid four strand rope. First I worm the rope on my Domanoff serving machine. I'm using black cotton so its easy to distinguish during the worming process, (the stays will be painted black later to simulate the tar) The rope is then served just beyond where the mouse will be The eye is formed by unpicking the ends of the rope, gluing them down to simulate a splice Then it is served over the splice The mouse is made by drilling a hole in a piece of dowel. The dowel is sanded to a cone shape on the end then cut off and sanded to shape and slipped onto the rope. The create the woven effect over the mouse I am using a flexible cloth wound dressing, its self adhesive so very easy to attach. The lower part is served. A little bit of PVA glue on the join will stop the self adhesive letting go in the future. The completed stay
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Harvey Wow, just discovered your build log. I built the Corel Victory a long time ago with a lot of mods to make it look more realistic. But you have done a fantastic job using the parts supplied, absolutely brilliant, well done Steve
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Hi Dave Thanks for the info. Yes similar, I am basing the rope size on 7" rope for preventer and 10" forestay My Endeavour is 1:51 scale so the preventer should be: 7" circumference x 25.4 = 177.8mm divided by Pi (3.1416) = 56.6mm diam. divided by 51 = 1.11mm 10" circumference should be 1.58mm Cheers Steve
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