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shipaholic
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Everything posted by shipaholic
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Mike, now I need your advice, can you give me the size of the hooks and barrels you used for your swivel guns -
Mike the tops and swivel guns look fantastic, good work
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Hi Mike The thread is 1.18mm (from Chuck Passaro). I worked it out thus; ships of 300 tonnes had shrouds 7 inch circumference 7 x 25.4 is 177.8 mm divided by pi to give diameter is 56.6 mm. Divide by 51 (scale) gives 1.11mm Chucks thread is good for shrouds, it's cable laid Cheers Steve
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A bit of a diversion from doing the shrouds today. I built a binnacle. Just a simple one like the one they use for display purposes on the replica vessel
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I wasn't happy with the angle of the bowsprit, it wasn't quite steep enough. So I unshipped it and sanded a bit off the heel where it sits on the deck. While I was at it I also sanded the black paint off the deadeyes and hearts and varnished them. Many contemporary models built in the 18th century have deadeyes that are lacquered instead of painted black. I think that when you have everything to do with the standing rigging painted black you can't see the detail very well. I might sand all the deadeyes that I have already painted and lacquer them. I want this ship to look more like a contemporary model. Very happy with how the fore shrouds look at the mast head.
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Truly awful question (thread from kits)
shipaholic replied to achuck49's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I untangled one of these about a month ago, it took about an hour and a bit of teamwork between me and the missus, and a lot of patience but we got it all untangled, one loop at a time. -
Hi Mike I'm just wondering how you came upon the hat elastic discovery, was it wearing a party hat at Christmas? The pics look great, I might investigate this idea too, good work. Cheers Steve
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Thanks Slog, yes I'm trying to make the rigging as accurate as possible - the first shroud was always served.
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Thanks Mike. I'm using the 5mm deadeyes supplied with the partwork
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Thanks Mike, yeah I'm using a cigarette lighter on the fuzzy rope, works okay. I'm continuing on with the shrouds today, turning in the deadeyes.
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I'm currently doing the foremast shrouds. The foremost shroud is served all the way to the end and all the others are served one-fourth the way from the centre. I'm using Syren rope for the shrouds, its cable-laid and its nice and fuzz free. I put a round siezing on using some of the thread supplied with the partwork, not that happy with it - very fuzzy finish.
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Mike I wouldn't bother with an eyebolt. Anything that needs to be fastened there could be done to the collar of that stay block. Are you fitting sails? Steve
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Hi Mike I assume you mean the main Topmast preventer stay. Not sure where you are looking on page 114 but I can't see it. The correct way is a block lashed at the bottom of the hounds as shown on page 101. I did check other references such as Lees when I did mine because I don't trust the AOTS. Cheers Steve PS I looked further and I see now, you were looking at page 117 not 114, the drawing appears to show the block lashed to the ring, but the ring is for the sail rigging not the stay
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Three down three to go, I keep putting off the gun rigging because it's such small fiddly work, but isn't it all fiddly work?
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Rigged another cannon today, I used Caldercraft hooks for this one, they look pretty good.
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I was fitting the other mast base rings (or simulated boots) and the main mast one supplied with the kit was a bit thin and broke when I sanded it. I had to find something to replace it, I couldn't make one out of wood because I don't have the tools so I hunted around in my stuff and found some old metal grommets, I filed out the centre and it was pretty clost to size I needed, looks pretty similar to the foremast one.
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I read yesterday that there will not be a 2014 edition. Apparently the long-time editor has stepped down. http://www.conwaypublishing.com/?p=7177
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Yeah Mike asked the same question on my build log - I measured the angles on the three 1768 draughts I have and they are the same as you indicated Pat
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Hi Mike On the 1768 draughts the angle of the masts are shown as follows Fore mast 90 degrees to deck Main mast 87 degrees to deck Mizzen mast 83 degrees to deck The forecastle deck is basically level, but the quarterdeck curves upwards towards the stern. The absolute rake of the main mast is 88 deg and the mizzen 87deg. Obviously is easier to measure the angle compared to the deck on a model Cheers Steve
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Today I made the other mast tackle, getting better at doing the splices, this one looks a bit neater.
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Managed to spend a bit of time on the ship today. Fitted the blocks for the buntlines under the main top. Ready to start on the foremast shrouds but first I had to make the mast tackle which goes over the mast head first. The serving looks a little rough over the splicing but it will be okay once I paint it black. I am not using black cotton for serving because I think it is "too black". Using hemp colour for serving then painting with dilute black paint gives a more realistic look of tarred rope I reckon.
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I was talking about opening ports, Kiwiron was asking about angles of chains. Here's a pic of both
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