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shipaholic
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Everything posted by shipaholic
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OMG theres no way I would try to do hinges for those shutters at 1:51, and you have done it at 1:60, nice job Dave -
Hi Ron This Occre model is the same as the one I am building, and I am positive that the scale is 1:51, and Pat is right royal navy ratlines were usually 13 inches apart. So the spacing should be 13 x 2.54 = 330mm divided by scale (51) equals 6.5mm Re the catharpins, I don't know how fussy you want to be but I served mine all over, but the important thing is to get them all exactly the same length so that they all pull equally tight when the topmast shrouds via the futtock shrouds put tension on them by wanting to spread the lower shrouds. I made the catharpins with an eye at each end then tied them to the futtock staves with thin cotton. Cheers Steve
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Hi Max Some really good work you have done. One thing puzzles me, your foremast is much shorter than the mainmast. I believe the foremast should be only slightly shorter, maybe there is a mistake in the plans somewhere (yes it happens) I wonder if the Occre plans are the same as the ones I have. (Same model different brand) Cheers Steve
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Hi Ron I did a post on this in page 17 of my log. I believe there are 7 shrouds and one top mast back stay. I believe this due to the angles of the deadeye chains on the 1768 droughts. Cheers Steve
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Hi I looked up the pic of The Bounty anchor and it looks like a typical admiralty design from that period, it is missing the wooden stock that it would have had. With the stock It would have looked very similar to this one from the HMS Sirius from the same era Cheers Steve
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Thanks Chris, there are a few other really good Endeavour builds on here for you to gain insights from too Steve
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Latest pics, main futtock shrouds done now working on the mizzen ones. I have started "tarring" the shrouds and stays
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Waterlines and Wales
shipaholic replied to Cabbie's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
It is strange that the waterline and wale positions are not on your plans, I built the AL Endeavour (a long time ago) and there was a plan showing the side view. Here is a photo of the original draught maybe you can judge from this where the wales and water line are. I think that its very important to get the position and curve of the wales correct as it determines the whole look of the ship.
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Yes the mizzen stay is set up with a deadeye. The standing rigging will be painted black to simulate tarring, I find that the paint stiffens the shrouds nicely making it easier to fit the rat lines.
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I haven't done anything on the ship for a few weeks, I've been otherwise occupied. Today I manged to get the mizzen stay made. Notice the difference to how its set up in the AOTS, I won't be fitting the staysail stay as shown in the AOTS either.
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Hi Chris Welcome to the endeavour club. I built this kit twenty something years ago, your box looks identical to mine, so same age I reckon. When I built it I left everything natural wood except for some blue on the upper part of the sides and stern. I wanted it to be an ornament more than a scale model, and it still holds pride of place on the shelf in my living room. There are pics of it in the gallery on here if you want to check out the finish etc. Cheers Steve
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Too what degree are shrouds and stays served
shipaholic replied to markjay's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Hi Mark The answer to your question is that the foremost shrouds were served their entire length, the rest of the shrouds were served to just below the futtock staves. Fore and main stays were served to just below the mouse. Back stays were served to just below the splices or lashings Cheers Steve -
Hmmmm this subject is very interesting. It seems that yellow ochre was common during the era even with the French as seen in this pic. Not the pink that they are proposing for the Victory
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Dave, your work is fantastic, great attention to detail. I'll be up your way next week. Cheers Steve
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Hi Hof The drawings in the AOTS are different scales. Some drawings are not to scale but for the ones that are the scale is written above the drawing legend. Most of the drawings are 1/8" = 1 foot which is 1:96 scale Cheers Steve
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Yes very good points B.E. And Robin
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Hi Mike Yes it's quite a job doing the lashings on the collar in-situ. The replica has a short mizzenmast and its one thing they got wrong, if you look at the mizzen channels on the replica they are wider than the fore and main channels otherwise the mizzen shrouds would foul against the rough tree rails because the mast is too short, not right. If you look at every other ship of the period the mizzen mast cap is level with the main top. The AOTS is correct in this regard. I made my mizzenmast to the dimensions in the AOTS, looks good. Greg the peg leg sailor sent me a very very good article that also claimed that the bowsprit on the replica and in the AOTS are too short as well because the main stay and the fore stay should be roughly parallel, which again is what you see in every other ship of the period. I was seriously contemplating removing my bowsprit and making a longer one. Might yet do that. Cheers Steve
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Yes good point BE here is a painting supposedly done two years after Nelson's death showing Victory with yellow ochre stripes, and before the refit that closed in the stern galleries? Note the other ship's stripes are not as yellow, what's with that? Lots of unanswered questions.
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Yes Dafi I think the French got beaten because they were too busy laughing to man the guns - who paints a warship pink? Good tactic Nelson! A lot of People who have built Victory will now be crying in their beers. Yes I too now have an historically inaccurate black and yellow meter-long monolith on my bookcase Steve
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Hi Hof Re the paint, I also got mine from Miniature Steam, I'm sure they will mail them to you in NZ. Another alternative is Cornwall Model Boats in the UK, the mail service is fast and I usually receive stuff from them within a week or so from UK to Aus Re the top layer planking, with my Endeavour I put the main Wales on first and planked up from that which meant the planks needed to curve upwards, which makes the task difficult if the planks are thin because they would rather kink than curve. I used PVA glue inter spaced with CA every inch and lots of pins and planking clamps to stop the planks wanting to kink. The effect was good with the planks following a nice upward curve like you see on a real ship. Cheers Steve
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Yes you are correct Robin, I have seen photos of one of the editions online and the stern view is definitely the Bounty
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I am in Sydney visiting my partner's family, Weather was nice so I decided to go for another look at the replica at the ANMM.
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Chris I wouldn't worry about it too much if I were you, I have the first and second editions and they are basically the same except for the cover as far as I can see. Steve
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Thanks Mike The fore and main stays are Syren 1.37mm, the fore and main preventer stays are Syren 1.14mm. The main stay collar is 1.37 Cheers
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Thanks for all the compliments and likes guys. Main preventer stay heart and seizings, mouse and collar.
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