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shipaholic

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Everything posted by shipaholic

  1. More work on the cannon. I am setting up just one of the guns with tackles appearing ready to use instead of the rope expended by wrapping around the rope between the blocks and also with the train tackle fitted
  2. Today I was fitting the tackles and recoil ropes to the final two cannon (I kept putting it off because its so fiddly) and I had a thought about how the tackle and recoil rope should be rigged. I think it makes more sense to have the recoil rope above the tackle rope. I have already rigged all the other guns with the recoil rope under the tackle. If anyone has info on which is the correct configuration I would be grateful. Cheers Steve
  3. Robin Yes I agree, the Endeavour might have had two binnacles, a small one either side of the skylight.
  4. Hi Mike Yes I think the skylight would have been like the one on the Victory but the top sash may have been covered with a grating to protect it during sailing. That's the way I have built it, just like yours but with the grating on top. Here's a pic of an 18th century model showing a grating on top of the skylight. Also on the replica vessel they put a grating on top of the skylight when at sea.
  5. I built another skylight (companion as it was called) because the previous one didn't look right, and didn't fit with the description given in the refit in 1768 - "Companion on the quarter deck to be framed with sash light all round & sash & grating on the top" I am still trying to sort out what to do about the binnacle, whether to use the one I built or go with one like in the AOTS that arches over the skylight. I have never seen any photo or drawing or any other ship model that has a binnacle that resembles the one in AOTS.
  6. Good to see another Endeavour being built, I will watch with interest Cheers Steve
  7. Dave, It would be a shame to wreck your Dremel by overloading it. Why not do what I did and just buy a cheap electric drill from Kmart for about $20. I purchased a fairly cheap lathe from the UK that is designed to use a drill as the motor. Cheers Steve
  8. Hi Pat It was me that first picked up the mistake, I posted it on my build log yesterday. I can understand your anger, but I agree with Keith at least you didn't get much further with your rigging. Steve
  9. Hello Hornet Have you seen these pics of a museum model, they may be helpful; http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/collection/database/?irn=238338 Cheers Steve
  10. Hi everyone I am just looking to start making the topmasts and just discovered a mistake in the AOTS. On page 88 there are the drawings of the topmasts and they are labelled as 1/8" = 1ft. The topmast drawings are actually 3/16 = 1ft. If you measure the main topmast length on page 83 at 1/16" scale it is about 64mm So at 1/8" scale it should be twice as long ie 128mm. The main topmast in the drawing on page 88 is 194mm long - three times as long so it must be 3/16" scale I double checked by measuring the topmast on my AL Endeavour (which is 3/16" scale) and it is indeed 194mm long Cheers Steve
  11. Mike, now I need your advice, can you give me the size of the hooks and barrels you used for your swivel guns
  12. Hi Mike The thread is 1.18mm (from Chuck Passaro). I worked it out thus; ships of 300 tonnes had shrouds 7 inch circumference 7 x 25.4 is 177.8 mm divided by pi to give diameter is 56.6 mm. Divide by 51 (scale) gives 1.11mm Chucks thread is good for shrouds, it's cable laid Cheers Steve
  13. A bit of a diversion from doing the shrouds today. I built a binnacle. Just a simple one like the one they use for display purposes on the replica vessel
  14. I wasn't happy with the angle of the bowsprit, it wasn't quite steep enough. So I unshipped it and sanded a bit off the heel where it sits on the deck. While I was at it I also sanded the black paint off the deadeyes and hearts and varnished them. Many contemporary models built in the 18th century have deadeyes that are lacquered instead of painted black. I think that when you have everything to do with the standing rigging painted black you can't see the detail very well. I might sand all the deadeyes that I have already painted and lacquer them. I want this ship to look more like a contemporary model. Very happy with how the fore shrouds look at the mast head.
  15. I untangled one of these about a month ago, it took about an hour and a bit of teamwork between me and the missus, and a lot of patience but we got it all untangled, one loop at a time.
  16. Hi Mike I'm just wondering how you came upon the hat elastic discovery, was it wearing a party hat at Christmas? The pics look great, I might investigate this idea too, good work. Cheers Steve
  17. Thanks Slog, yes I'm trying to make the rigging as accurate as possible - the first shroud was always served.
  18. Thanks Mike, yeah I'm using a cigarette lighter on the fuzzy rope, works okay. I'm continuing on with the shrouds today, turning in the deadeyes.
  19. I'm currently doing the foremast shrouds. The foremost shroud is served all the way to the end and all the others are served one-fourth the way from the centre. I'm using Syren rope for the shrouds, its cable-laid and its nice and fuzz free. I put a round siezing on using some of the thread supplied with the partwork, not that happy with it - very fuzzy finish.
  20. Mike I wouldn't bother with an eyebolt. Anything that needs to be fastened there could be done to the collar of that stay block. Are you fitting sails? Steve
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