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RMC
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RMC got a reaction from kier in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The main and main preventer stays are now attached. Lashing the hearts proved quite awkward. The holes in the hearts provided for the lashing were circular which made it difficult to keep each strand from overlapping previous strands. It would have been far easier to file flat the surface where the lashing was to go. By the time I had figured that out it was a bit late. I solved the problem of the strands wanting to overlap each other by gluing each strand (50:50 PVA) individually - doing one, waiting for the glue to dry, doing another .......
Here is a photo of the lashing for the main stay partially done. The line is held taught by a weight on the end (a pair of spring tweezers).
The lashing (almost) complete.
The lashing for the preventer stay in progress:
and how it all looks at the moment.
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RMC got a reaction from Jeff-E in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Help needed - top gallant shrouds.
I am having difficulty finding the appropriate way to attach the shrouds to the top gallant masts.
One source suggests they are tied on using clove hitches which seems odd - or are they attached in the same way as all the other shrouds?
An added problem is that the holes provided for the shrouds in the cross trees are too small for the required 0.5mm thread. I did not have the foresight to check before mounting the cross trees to the masts. The Syren thread I am using is supposed to be 0.45mm and that did not fit through either. All of this necessitated enlarging the holes to 0.6mm while perched up a small ladder so that I could see what I was doing. This is not recommended.
For those not at this stage - check the holes in the cross trees BEFORE you attach them to the masts!
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RMC got a reaction from Dubz in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Progress has been made on the top mizzen shrouds. The dead eyes are quite small, and as a consequence the job has proven to be rather fiddly. The last set of lanyards refused to behave and it took me as long to tie them off as it did the other three sets combined. Once that was done, one of the other sets of shrouds became unacceptably limp and needed to be redone. I did not rejoice. Incidentally, the only way to make the Syren thread stay in place while tying the lanyards is to make it soaking wet.
Here are some of the steps towards completion.
This looks a bit like a dog's breakfast, but it does work.
I have finally tied off the lanyards and am waiting for the glue to dry on the knots.
While waiting, I decided to see if I could do anything to improve on the stun sail boom irons provided in the kit. Like Arthur (aew) I think they are not really satisfactory. Unlike Arthur, soldering is a completely alien concept to me. I bought a length of 2mm brass strip to play with. Here are the results. Nothing has yet been glued, so comments/suggestions are very welcome.
This is one of the irons from the kit. The hole for the boom appears to be far too large. (The yard has not yet been touched up.)
This is one of my experiments. I used a pair of round nosed pliers, a hand held vise, and a fairly fine file.
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RMC got a reaction from Bettina in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The lanyards for the fore topmast deadeyes are now tied off. They have come out fairly well.
The shrouds for the main topmast are complete. I decided that I would cut off the thread for the ten lanyards all in one go. This was not a good idea. Somehow I stuffed up the measurement and cut them all off about 15mm too short. I still may be able to use them, but tying them off will not be easy at best. The extra 15mill would make all the difference. I am loath to discard the thread as I am running a little low on that particular Syren thread and getting some more will take 2 or 3 weeks.
Here are the main topmast shrouds in the works.
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RMC got a reaction from Bettina in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The lanyards for the deadeyes on the fore topmast are now essentially done. I will not finally tie them off for a few days to let every thing settle down. As well,some adjustments may be needed once the shrouds for the main and mizzen topmasts are done. While quite time-consuming, the process has gone smoothly. The method described in my previous post has worked well, though in writing this of course, I'm asking for trouble.
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RMC got a reaction from kier in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Progress has been made on the topmast shrouds. I have gradually found a fairly easy way to space the dead eyes which had caused me quite a bit of trouble. The following may help others who have also found difficulty.
First, often when I inserted brass wire spacers through the upper holes in the dead eyes, the wire would fall out at the crucial time. It's very frustrating. Now I use plastic covering of copper electrical wire as a stopper. It fits perfectly and solves that problem.
Second, in making any adjustments, the deadeye tends to rotate, so that the holes are in the wrong position. A piece of wire bent so that it will go through the two lower holes enables you to twist the deadeye to the correct position. Once that is done I use a a pair of spring tweezers to pinch the two shrouds above the deadeye ready to knot them together.
Incidentally, the quality of many the deadeyes supplied is quite poor. The holes are all over the place: about a quarter are unusable: and about half are just adequate.
Here is a set ready to take the lanyards. (I have made slight adjustments to these since taking the photo.)
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RMC got a reaction from coxswain in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The cross trees are now fitted. The photo shows the top gallant masts dry-fitted. The sheaves and the blocks are fitted to the top masts where necessary, and this was a mistake. The shrouds have to be fitted over the cross trees and the sheaves and the blocks already fitted make things difficult. Moreover the sheaves were fitted accurately according to the plans, which does not leave enough room to fit the shrouds and the stays. Had I shifted the sheaves up about 3mm (possible to do) there really wouldn't have been a problem.
This is progress to date. The more I see how large the it is, the more I have no idea what to do with the damn thing when (if) it's finished.
Below are a couple of the cross trees fitted with sheaves and blocks. The gap between the bottom of the sheaves and the cross trees is 3 or 4mm. Unfortunately six loops of shrouds (1mm thread is specified) have to fit there, as well as the stays. I am using fractionally thinner Syren thread (0.86mm but I am serving it - which will make it close enough to 1mm. I guess it will turn out in the end.
There is a bit of good news though - the ratlines for the lower masts are finished.
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RMC got a reaction from coxswain in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
I have made a fair amount of progress oveer the last week or two (the weather has been horrible - winter is finally here).
The topmasts have finally been fixed.
The hand ropes on the bowsprit have been attached. There was a slight trauma here as I had provided only two eyes for the bow timber heads. It seems I should have provided three - though I haven't found three anywhere on the plans. Despite appearances the ropes are not too taught.
I then got a little carried away in fitting netting (the tulle used for the hammock netting was dyed black) to the safety railing on the tops. After all you can't have sailors suing the Admiralyy for failing to provide a safe working environment. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Once I had done one I thought I may as well do the remaining two, but I don't think it was all worth the effort. For those who are also into self-inflicted pain, here is the method I used.
A guide was drawn with the verticals spaced by the holes provided on the tops. I used a pair of dividers to obtain the spacing between the holes.
A piece of 3x1mm strip was inserted into the notches provided in the posts. The Tamiya tape shown makes the strip a little thicker and enables the strip to stay temporarily fixed in the notches.
This is the result for the fore top. Since the photos below, some touching up has been done and it has turned out fairly well.
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RMC got a reaction from Bettina in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Progress has been made on the top mizzen shrouds. The dead eyes are quite small, and as a consequence the job has proven to be rather fiddly. The last set of lanyards refused to behave and it took me as long to tie them off as it did the other three sets combined. Once that was done, one of the other sets of shrouds became unacceptably limp and needed to be redone. I did not rejoice. Incidentally, the only way to make the Syren thread stay in place while tying the lanyards is to make it soaking wet.
Here are some of the steps towards completion.
This looks a bit like a dog's breakfast, but it does work.
I have finally tied off the lanyards and am waiting for the glue to dry on the knots.
While waiting, I decided to see if I could do anything to improve on the stun sail boom irons provided in the kit. Like Arthur (aew) I think they are not really satisfactory. Unlike Arthur, soldering is a completely alien concept to me. I bought a length of 2mm brass strip to play with. Here are the results. Nothing has yet been glued, so comments/suggestions are very welcome.
This is one of the irons from the kit. The hole for the boom appears to be far too large. (The yard has not yet been touched up.)
This is one of my experiments. I used a pair of round nosed pliers, a hand held vise, and a fairly fine file.
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RMC got a reaction from WackoWolf in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Progress has been made on the top mizzen shrouds. The dead eyes are quite small, and as a consequence the job has proven to be rather fiddly. The last set of lanyards refused to behave and it took me as long to tie them off as it did the other three sets combined. Once that was done, one of the other sets of shrouds became unacceptably limp and needed to be redone. I did not rejoice. Incidentally, the only way to make the Syren thread stay in place while tying the lanyards is to make it soaking wet.
Here are some of the steps towards completion.
This looks a bit like a dog's breakfast, but it does work.
I have finally tied off the lanyards and am waiting for the glue to dry on the knots.
While waiting, I decided to see if I could do anything to improve on the stun sail boom irons provided in the kit. Like Arthur (aew) I think they are not really satisfactory. Unlike Arthur, soldering is a completely alien concept to me. I bought a length of 2mm brass strip to play with. Here are the results. Nothing has yet been glued, so comments/suggestions are very welcome.
This is one of the irons from the kit. The hole for the boom appears to be far too large. (The yard has not yet been touched up.)
This is one of my experiments. I used a pair of round nosed pliers, a hand held vise, and a fairly fine file.
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RMC got a reaction from WackoWolf in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The lanyards for the fore topmast deadeyes are now tied off. They have come out fairly well.
The shrouds for the main topmast are complete. I decided that I would cut off the thread for the ten lanyards all in one go. This was not a good idea. Somehow I stuffed up the measurement and cut them all off about 15mm too short. I still may be able to use them, but tying them off will not be easy at best. The extra 15mill would make all the difference. I am loath to discard the thread as I am running a little low on that particular Syren thread and getting some more will take 2 or 3 weeks.
Here are the main topmast shrouds in the works.
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RMC got a reaction from de_kryger in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Progress has been made on the top mizzen shrouds. The dead eyes are quite small, and as a consequence the job has proven to be rather fiddly. The last set of lanyards refused to behave and it took me as long to tie them off as it did the other three sets combined. Once that was done, one of the other sets of shrouds became unacceptably limp and needed to be redone. I did not rejoice. Incidentally, the only way to make the Syren thread stay in place while tying the lanyards is to make it soaking wet.
Here are some of the steps towards completion.
This looks a bit like a dog's breakfast, but it does work.
I have finally tied off the lanyards and am waiting for the glue to dry on the knots.
While waiting, I decided to see if I could do anything to improve on the stun sail boom irons provided in the kit. Like Arthur (aew) I think they are not really satisfactory. Unlike Arthur, soldering is a completely alien concept to me. I bought a length of 2mm brass strip to play with. Here are the results. Nothing has yet been glued, so comments/suggestions are very welcome.
This is one of the irons from the kit. The hole for the boom appears to be far too large. (The yard has not yet been touched up.)
This is one of my experiments. I used a pair of round nosed pliers, a hand held vise, and a fairly fine file.
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RMC got a reaction from GuntherMT in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Progress has been made on the top mizzen shrouds. The dead eyes are quite small, and as a consequence the job has proven to be rather fiddly. The last set of lanyards refused to behave and it took me as long to tie them off as it did the other three sets combined. Once that was done, one of the other sets of shrouds became unacceptably limp and needed to be redone. I did not rejoice. Incidentally, the only way to make the Syren thread stay in place while tying the lanyards is to make it soaking wet.
Here are some of the steps towards completion.
This looks a bit like a dog's breakfast, but it does work.
I have finally tied off the lanyards and am waiting for the glue to dry on the knots.
While waiting, I decided to see if I could do anything to improve on the stun sail boom irons provided in the kit. Like Arthur (aew) I think they are not really satisfactory. Unlike Arthur, soldering is a completely alien concept to me. I bought a length of 2mm brass strip to play with. Here are the results. Nothing has yet been glued, so comments/suggestions are very welcome.
This is one of the irons from the kit. The hole for the boom appears to be far too large. (The yard has not yet been touched up.)
This is one of my experiments. I used a pair of round nosed pliers, a hand held vise, and a fairly fine file.
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RMC got a reaction from WackoWolf in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The lanyards for the deadeyes on the fore topmast are now essentially done. I will not finally tie them off for a few days to let every thing settle down. As well,some adjustments may be needed once the shrouds for the main and mizzen topmasts are done. While quite time-consuming, the process has gone smoothly. The method described in my previous post has worked well, though in writing this of course, I'm asking for trouble.
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RMC got a reaction from dgbot in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The lanyards for the deadeyes on the fore topmast are now essentially done. I will not finally tie them off for a few days to let every thing settle down. As well,some adjustments may be needed once the shrouds for the main and mizzen topmasts are done. While quite time-consuming, the process has gone smoothly. The method described in my previous post has worked well, though in writing this of course, I'm asking for trouble.
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RMC got a reaction from mort stoll in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The lanyards for the deadeyes on the fore topmast are now essentially done. I will not finally tie them off for a few days to let every thing settle down. As well,some adjustments may be needed once the shrouds for the main and mizzen topmasts are done. While quite time-consuming, the process has gone smoothly. The method described in my previous post has worked well, though in writing this of course, I'm asking for trouble.
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RMC got a reaction from GuntherMT in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The lanyards for the deadeyes on the fore topmast are now essentially done. I will not finally tie them off for a few days to let every thing settle down. As well,some adjustments may be needed once the shrouds for the main and mizzen topmasts are done. While quite time-consuming, the process has gone smoothly. The method described in my previous post has worked well, though in writing this of course, I'm asking for trouble.
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RMC got a reaction from AON in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The lanyards for the deadeyes on the fore topmast are now essentially done. I will not finally tie them off for a few days to let every thing settle down. As well,some adjustments may be needed once the shrouds for the main and mizzen topmasts are done. While quite time-consuming, the process has gone smoothly. The method described in my previous post has worked well, though in writing this of course, I'm asking for trouble.
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RMC got a reaction from FatFingers in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The lanyards for the deadeyes on the fore topmast are now essentially done. I will not finally tie them off for a few days to let every thing settle down. As well,some adjustments may be needed once the shrouds for the main and mizzen topmasts are done. While quite time-consuming, the process has gone smoothly. The method described in my previous post has worked well, though in writing this of course, I'm asking for trouble.
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RMC got a reaction from coxswain in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Progress has been made on the topmast shrouds. I have gradually found a fairly easy way to space the dead eyes which had caused me quite a bit of trouble. The following may help others who have also found difficulty.
First, often when I inserted brass wire spacers through the upper holes in the dead eyes, the wire would fall out at the crucial time. It's very frustrating. Now I use plastic covering of copper electrical wire as a stopper. It fits perfectly and solves that problem.
Second, in making any adjustments, the deadeye tends to rotate, so that the holes are in the wrong position. A piece of wire bent so that it will go through the two lower holes enables you to twist the deadeye to the correct position. Once that is done I use a a pair of spring tweezers to pinch the two shrouds above the deadeye ready to knot them together.
Incidentally, the quality of many the deadeyes supplied is quite poor. The holes are all over the place: about a quarter are unusable: and about half are just adequate.
Here is a set ready to take the lanyards. (I have made slight adjustments to these since taking the photo.)
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RMC got a reaction from Bettina in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Progress has been made on the topmast shrouds. I have gradually found a fairly easy way to space the dead eyes which had caused me quite a bit of trouble. The following may help others who have also found difficulty.
First, often when I inserted brass wire spacers through the upper holes in the dead eyes, the wire would fall out at the crucial time. It's very frustrating. Now I use plastic covering of copper electrical wire as a stopper. It fits perfectly and solves that problem.
Second, in making any adjustments, the deadeye tends to rotate, so that the holes are in the wrong position. A piece of wire bent so that it will go through the two lower holes enables you to twist the deadeye to the correct position. Once that is done I use a a pair of spring tweezers to pinch the two shrouds above the deadeye ready to knot them together.
Incidentally, the quality of many the deadeyes supplied is quite poor. The holes are all over the place: about a quarter are unusable: and about half are just adequate.
Here is a set ready to take the lanyards. (I have made slight adjustments to these since taking the photo.)
-
RMC got a reaction from WackoWolf in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Progress has been made on the topmast shrouds. I have gradually found a fairly easy way to space the dead eyes which had caused me quite a bit of trouble. The following may help others who have also found difficulty.
First, often when I inserted brass wire spacers through the upper holes in the dead eyes, the wire would fall out at the crucial time. It's very frustrating. Now I use plastic covering of copper electrical wire as a stopper. It fits perfectly and solves that problem.
Second, in making any adjustments, the deadeye tends to rotate, so that the holes are in the wrong position. A piece of wire bent so that it will go through the two lower holes enables you to twist the deadeye to the correct position. Once that is done I use a a pair of spring tweezers to pinch the two shrouds above the deadeye ready to knot them together.
Incidentally, the quality of many the deadeyes supplied is quite poor. The holes are all over the place: about a quarter are unusable: and about half are just adequate.
Here is a set ready to take the lanyards. (I have made slight adjustments to these since taking the photo.)
-
RMC got a reaction from mort stoll in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Progress has been made on the topmast shrouds. I have gradually found a fairly easy way to space the dead eyes which had caused me quite a bit of trouble. The following may help others who have also found difficulty.
First, often when I inserted brass wire spacers through the upper holes in the dead eyes, the wire would fall out at the crucial time. It's very frustrating. Now I use plastic covering of copper electrical wire as a stopper. It fits perfectly and solves that problem.
Second, in making any adjustments, the deadeye tends to rotate, so that the holes are in the wrong position. A piece of wire bent so that it will go through the two lower holes enables you to twist the deadeye to the correct position. Once that is done I use a a pair of spring tweezers to pinch the two shrouds above the deadeye ready to knot them together.
Incidentally, the quality of many the deadeyes supplied is quite poor. The holes are all over the place: about a quarter are unusable: and about half are just adequate.
Here is a set ready to take the lanyards. (I have made slight adjustments to these since taking the photo.)
-
RMC got a reaction from Bettina in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The cross trees are now fitted. The photo shows the top gallant masts dry-fitted. The sheaves and the blocks are fitted to the top masts where necessary, and this was a mistake. The shrouds have to be fitted over the cross trees and the sheaves and the blocks already fitted make things difficult. Moreover the sheaves were fitted accurately according to the plans, which does not leave enough room to fit the shrouds and the stays. Had I shifted the sheaves up about 3mm (possible to do) there really wouldn't have been a problem.
This is progress to date. The more I see how large the it is, the more I have no idea what to do with the damn thing when (if) it's finished.
Below are a couple of the cross trees fitted with sheaves and blocks. The gap between the bottom of the sheaves and the cross trees is 3 or 4mm. Unfortunately six loops of shrouds (1mm thread is specified) have to fit there, as well as the stays. I am using fractionally thinner Syren thread (0.86mm but I am serving it - which will make it close enough to 1mm. I guess it will turn out in the end.
There is a bit of good news though - the ratlines for the lower masts are finished.
-
RMC got a reaction from WackoWolf in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The cross trees are now fitted. The photo shows the top gallant masts dry-fitted. The sheaves and the blocks are fitted to the top masts where necessary, and this was a mistake. The shrouds have to be fitted over the cross trees and the sheaves and the blocks already fitted make things difficult. Moreover the sheaves were fitted accurately according to the plans, which does not leave enough room to fit the shrouds and the stays. Had I shifted the sheaves up about 3mm (possible to do) there really wouldn't have been a problem.
This is progress to date. The more I see how large the it is, the more I have no idea what to do with the damn thing when (if) it's finished.
Below are a couple of the cross trees fitted with sheaves and blocks. The gap between the bottom of the sheaves and the cross trees is 3 or 4mm. Unfortunately six loops of shrouds (1mm thread is specified) have to fit there, as well as the stays. I am using fractionally thinner Syren thread (0.86mm but I am serving it - which will make it close enough to 1mm. I guess it will turn out in the end.
There is a bit of good news though - the ratlines for the lower masts are finished.
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