Stuntflyer

I now have five frames completed along with scratch built sweep ports. I added Yellow Cedar above the ports as filler pieces which extend to the sheer. To save some milling operations, that will be hidden later, I used Chuck's 5/32" laser cut top timbers. This nonuniform area will be covered up later with the upper hull planking. The five frames are mostly faired and the outer faces sanded close to the half breadth. Of course, there will be more work needed for final fairing which includes getting the sheer to a width of 5/32”. The height gauge makes it much easier to find the proper height of the sweep port. Measurements for this are taken directly from the plan. The 4.66" height is well within my .005" margin of error. I still need to reverse the tilt table on the mill in order to make it possible to do a scarph joint on one side of those long one piece floors. The setup doesn't take all that long to do, though I wouldn't want to make the change for every frame. With that in mind, I'm going to work the frames in larger groups rather than individually. Mike

Congratulations, Rusty! You have made a beautiful model with rich colors that anyone would be proud to display. have you come up with ideas of how you were going to display her? Mike

Thanks, Chuck!

I will use the Aa frame as a reference for aligning the other square frames. It's important keep this frame from moving laterally while at the same time being centered with the stem and stern post. The first step was to come up with a way to hold the frame firmly in place. A low profile chock placed under the frame and against the build board was one option, but I wanted a more rigid solution. Using clamped machinist squares against the frame was not an option, since they would surely get in the way when working around the build board. The solution was to make two squares from some boxwood scrap. The bottom leg has milled slots which allows the squares to move in and out. 4-40 bolts and blind nuts would be used to hold the squares firmly in place. The next step was aligning the center of the frame with the stern post and stem. I ran a string between these two points. Due to the difference in height between the stem, stern post and frame tops the string angled in such a way as to create excess pressure against the frame top. When I snapped the string the centerline varied because the string couldn't move freely against the frame top. The fix was to glue a piece of wood to the top of the stern post jig. This straightened the string considerably while taking pressure off the frame top. The top edge was notched in order to hold the string on center while tension is applied. I used tape to hold the string along the top of the gammoning knee. Snapping the tightened string over the frame established an accurate centerline. The squares could now be moved a wee bit in or out to hold the frame centered and firmly in place. Mike

Hi guys! I've been patiently awaiting on a new shipment of wood from Hobbymill.eu. I mistakenly thought that I had enough 5/16" sheet for the frame floors. In an effort to keep the color match close to what I already have, I sent a sample to Vahur. He is working on it and as soon as I receive the new wood I will start posting again. Thanks again for your continued interest in my build Mike

Yes, Rusty. I totally agree. This is something I've been saying all along. Laser cutting is just the first step. Afterwards, much care is needed in order to get results like the ones seen in Chuck's builds. Care and Patience will always yield a better result.

Oh, I believe in yesterday. . . 🎵🎵🎵🎵🎵╡🎵╡

looking really nice, Rusty. Nice and slow.

Thanks! Better to ask Chuck, he would know.

Gary, These are very stable, so they not to tip over easily. This is my go to company as well. Friendly staff and very good service. https://taytools.com/products/kinex-machinist-try-squares-with-base-875-1?variant=32402292539479

Tom, I trust the angle gauge. A scarph angle on the plan was 7°. I set the angle gauge to that after doing a horizontal cut. The 7° cut was right on the line that I was milling, for its entire length. When I joined the floor and futtock the frame shape matched the plan beautifully. I don't think that I could ask for more than that. Of course it would be nice if the angle gauge was digital, but I'm not complaining. Square Frames (pt.1) After getting acquainted with the new mill along with some trial and error with initial setup, I'm ready to move on. The first frame I installed was (Aa). The scroll saw, spindle sander and disc sander made shaping easy enough with minimal work required. I used PVA and some squares to hold everything in place while the glue dried overnight. The width of the frame lines up nicely with the half breadth line on the drawing with some wiggle room for fairing. In addition to the frame being vertical it is also square to the rising wood. I would not expect the laser cut frames and jigs to match perfectly with my milling work. I was curious as to what would happen when adding the second frame. It was very close but not exact. That didn't bother me at all. I knew that I wanted the frames to be parallel to one another, so I made a strip the same width as the space between the two frames. When setting the second frame I used the strips to ensure that the spacing was even between the frames. The space between the two top cross pieces is barely that of two sheets of paper or 0.010". I can certainly live with that and I much prefer that the view from the side is as even as possible. Once the glue dries and before I remove the squares, I will secure those top cross jigs together, . Mike

Moving along, I added the extension piece to the top of the rising wood. This establishes the proper height for the wing transom. While I was at it, I placed a stop behind the keel to register its exact position relative to the drawing. I made it to the same angle as the stern post to prevent any marring of the wood. Square Frames (initial setup) It wasn't long after I started to make the first frame that I realized I had a problem. At the larger scale some of the floors end up being quite long. In order for the end mill to cut the scarph joints cleanly the wood must be held firmly near the cut. Too much movement could result in chip out or even chunks of wood being torn away. As you can see here, the initial setup was far from being ideal. Being a newbie when it comes to milling, I reached out to both Mark and Greg for some expert advise and a little brainstorming. They were very helpful with their ideas and suggestions. In the end I went with a Sherline tilt table which is predrilled at the factory for attaching the milling vise. It has an angle gauge in one degree increments as well. Thanks, guys! Mike

Glenn, My setup is quite simple. Just a white backdrop that is for the most part white balanced already. Also I shoot under an overhead ceiling fixture that has 3-5000K LED's. Sometimes I use an umbrella to reduce shadows. Here are a few links. HTH https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1732646-REG/neewer_66600016_1_roller_wall_mounting_manual.html https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1508549-REG/savage_1_5318_background_paper_super_white.html https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/362385-REG/Impact_S3233_White_Translucent_Umbrella_33.html

Steve, you have done a great job on her so far. This is no time to walk away over one little section of the ship. Slow down, concentrate and get it right. You’ll be glad you did.

Jim, I think that Ken is referring to my build log.

Thanks, Ken! It's always nice to hear that.

Build board (pt. 2 ) The aft keel and stern post support jig was completed first. To narrow the gap, I added about three layers of tape until the inside dimension at the closed end of the slot was about equal to that of the keels width. I used blue painters tape, followed by a final layer of white Ph neutral artist tape. https://www.dickblick.com/items/blick-masking-tape-acid-free-natural-1-x-60-yds/ I did this to prevent any chance of the blue color eventually rubbing off onto the keel. The keel was then slid into the slot in the jigs base. I clamped the open end of the slot against the keel which held everything together while aligning. After everything was aligned on the drawing, I drilled the holes in the jigs base for the bolts that would hold it down. The bolt size doesn't really matter though the holes were drilled larger into the build board allowing for some shifting of the base sideways, if needed. The upright for the stern post was added after the jig was locked down. I added some tape here as well in order to close the gap in the slot. The upright has a laser cut tab that fits into a wider slot in the base. This allows for the upright to be shifted sideways in order to get the stern post vertical. I made a jig in order to position a machinist square 90° to the keel while leaning it back against the stern post. The forward keel and knee support jig was done basically the same way as the aft one with one small change. I went with a custom made taller knee support. I felt that it held it more firmly and made it easier to set the stem vertical. I can always remove it later if necessary should it get in the way of things. Here is photo for comparison showing the lower and upper support. A machinist square was placed against the stem, not the stemson, as a means for getting the knee vertical. After the fore and aft jigs were completed, I made a simple jig in order to see if the keel was square to the drawing. You can just make out the line close to the base of the jig. Mike

Only you can make that decision, Steve. Do-overs are common in this hobby. Believe me, I know! Mike

Looking really nice, Rusty! Your almost ready for the fun part.

Build board (pt.1) The boards platform was made from a sheet of 1/2" MDF cut to 12”x 42". For support I added primed 3/4”x 1 1/2” strips underneath. All of the strips where shaved on the table saw in order to establish a straight edge when gluing them to the board. The shorter cross strips were shaved slightly deeper than the two long ones in order to recess them. Clamps were used to hold everything in place while the glue dried overnight. 3/4" Polyester Felt Tape was added to the two long strips to allow for sliding the board on the work table. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01455QMX4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I primed the MDF with a few coats of Krylon colormaxx white primer. https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K05584007-COLORmaxx-Spray-Aerosol/dp/B07LFWPFLC The primer was then lightly sanded smooth with a flat sanding block and some 400 grit sandpaper. The build board was now ready for the plan sheet. I trimmed the plan to a desired dimension, leaving a view of the lower frames on the sheet as a reference. To protect the printed lines I sprayed on some Krylon Workable Fixatif. https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K01306-Workable-Fixatif-11-Ounce/dp/B00023JE7U Once I established the positioning I placed some blue masking tape on the board to aid in the alignment of the sheet. I placed a centering tic mark on both the tape and plan sheet. I used Scotch Repositionable Spray Adhesive to adhere the plan to the build board. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Spray-Artists-Adhesive-MMM6065/dp/B00006IFBF My amazing wife helped me to hold this long sheet of paper while we carefully placed it on the board. Mike

Nice, Ben!

Aft deadwood, stern post, wedges With the addition of these parts, the central spine is finished. The stern post and the steps in the deadwood were cut on the mill. The straight taper in the deadwood, from the bearding line down to the foot, was done as described in Chuck's build log. There is a lot more wood to remove here than you might think. I often checked the work with a straight edge to insure that the final taper was straight and not rounded. More sanding will be needed later when it comes time to fair the cant frames. Mike

druxey, that’s a good point. I will keep it in mind.

I suppose you could, but honestly I don’t think it’s necessary. The tape should do the job of protecting the wood while it is on the build board.

Diver, are you sure? Looking at something unfamiliar to you might seem unattainable. This is much easier to do than the traditional way in which it is often done. Chuck has made this very straight forward with etched lines and laser cut shapes to start off with. He has simplified the process for those who want to build a POF and thought they never could. Mike