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Stuntflyer

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Everything posted by Stuntflyer

  1. Just a quick update. . I managed to complete the upper rail today which finishes up chapter ten. One thing I would mention is the importance of being able to tweak the pillars on either side of the gun barrels. In my earlier post #483, Ofelia shows the way to get them into alignment. If I had glued them in with epoxy or CA it would have been very difficult to tweak them later while installing the upper rail. The rail is thin, so it wouldn't take much for things to not line up perfectly. Before adding the rail, I checked it for the run along the pillar tops. It was check in both directions, sideways and from the top. I ended up changing the curvature of the rail as well as re-tweaking one or two pillars. Since the pillars where glued in with PVA, I simply nudged the pillar one way or another without the need to moisten the glue joint. Mike
  2. Hi Joe, My camera is an old Nikon D5100 DSLR. It has a very good 16 megapixel sensor for its time. But in order to get sharp shots I use prime lenses. Mostly the 60mm macro lens, but sometimes the 35mm f/1.8. Of course I always use the tripod and I shoot at bass ISO. Surprisingly , new cameras with more megapixels are not going to yield better shots for the kind of photographs that we are taking and where they are being posted on the web.
  3. I guess that we each have our own idea of what constitutes a milestone. For me it's getting all that repetitive work completed in making guns. Mike
  4. Thanks you all! I've been catching up on areas of the ship that were not completed earlier. The Q-gallery windows where on hold to avoid damage or dust collection. The remaining large guns due to my just being lazy. Anyway, here are some photos along with a few updates to chapter ten. After I drill the holes for the pinned QD guns I will finish up the upper rail on the QD. Mike
  5. I placed a square stick in the Dremel. Using a dial caliper to measure, I reduced the diameter of the stick at three locations with needle files. The base of the handle and right below the squared area was reduced using a round file to .035. The bottom of the spoke at the hub was reduced using a flat file to .045. Once that was done I was able to do the final shaping while using the reduced areas as a guide. Mike
  6. More progress today. I managed to get the wheel finished and on the ship. I could have used the laser cut spokes, but I decided to scratch them instead. Either way would have worked just fine. Mike
  7. Yes, it’s true. I spent a lot of time on those columns. That said, Chuck’s attention to detail when laser cutting parts really makes all the difference. He lays out the foundation, but the work has to be done beyond that in order to get a satisfying result. Mike
  8. Thanks, Chuck With regard to adhering the friezes to the binnacle. Do you prefer Scotch Spray Mount or Elmer's Glue Stick? Mike
  9. The breastrail which was one of those in between projects I've been working on is finished. It looks pretty straight forward, but the six columns required some time to shape. Luckily the laser cut side gave me the shape that needed to be duplicated on the adjacent side. Mike
  10. I didn't realize that it's been almost a month since my last update. Actually I've been working on the ships wheel, binnacle, QD rail, etc., as the mood strikes. Kinda gives me time to think about my next move on making a specific part. Getting started on the QD rail proved to be finicky when I tried to add too many parts at once. My only suggestion is that however you go about it, don't do that. I ended up only adding and securing the pieces that I felt would would form the foundation for the remaining pieces. Every timberhead and post that goes on the rail should be set vertical. Everything was pre-painted beforehand. The two sections are ready to accept the remaining parts. I can move either one forward or aft while setting up the post, etc. Ofelia, my fiancee, shows how to use a short stick to establish the proper angle for the posts. The stick is placed along the two upper moldings and the top outside edge of the post. Before the glue sets it's easy enough to tweak the post. As of today. . Mike
  11. I finally managed to get the companionway on the ship. The uprights were pinned with 24 gauge wire to the coaming. The four long rails were pinned to the uprights by turning a tiny round end into the rails with the Dremel. Holes were drilled equidistant into the uprights to accept the rail pins. Mike
  12. Thank you! As you push the sticks underneath the 1/64” brass sheet, the pressure created by lifting the sheet against the hold down screws is enough to keep the sticks in place. Use a stick that's anywhere from 3/16" to 3/8" thick. Mike
  13. I've been working my way through chapter ten. . The first thing I did was to make the three coamings that sit on the center belt of QD planking. It's easy enough to just glue the coamings together. However, to get a good result, I always take the time to make sure that everything is squared up and the sides are at a 90° angle. I like to use this setup for sanding the grating and coaming as a unit. It is easy to adjust the camber by simply moving the metal sheet up or down with the sticks. I use Porter Cable sticky back 220 grit sandpaper. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223SN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 Once that was done, I moved onto the center belt planking. Here are a few shots of the completed work. Good time to clean up the dust! Mike
  14. Thank guys for the kind words and for all the "Likes". Fred, when I made the bollards, I was presented with two choices regarding the shape. The plan is to add a swivel gun to the top of each one. Mike
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