Stuntflyer
-
Posts
1,129 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from Beef Wellington in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Molding strip under friezes and some interior details completed. The red paint is much smoother than it appears here. I applied 4 coats thinned just a little bit with water. Used 1/64" and 1/32" shims to get the floor spacing as close to the plan as I could. The front platform required a lot of sanding and fitting to place it low enough thereby making room for the risers which I have yet to work on.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from Beef Wellington in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
First two friezes finished. Used Krylon Workable Fixatif 1306 to protect them and 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive. If you happen to get some of the adhesive on the out side there is a great product called UnStik (see below) that will easily remove any excess without harming the frieze or the planking. I used it for many years when I was in the picture frame business. You can even use it on glossy photos.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from WackoWolf in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Got the cap rail sanded and shaped today. Average width is around 0.100 inch except where it flares slightly at the bow.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from MEDDO in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Decided to fix the shear plank by redoing the planking once more. I realize that I could have left things as they where but I need planking experience anyway. After sanding the hull with 400 sandpaper to a near sheen I applied the stain, 1 part Golden Oak to 3 Parts Natural and a coat of Wipe-On-Poly. After removing the bulkhead centers I thinned the bulkhead tops to 3/64". 3/64" + 1/32" plank + 1/64" overhang will give a 3/32" cap rail. I stained the hull inside as well. I then added the cap rail which is now ready for sanding.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from MEDDO in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Locker and cockpit details completed. The hinges were made as Chuck suggests in his build log using card stock and 28 gauge wire. I know that the contemporary model calls for a red cockpit but it ended up not looking very authentic when painted on such a broad surface using a brush. I was trying to get a even coverage but it didn't work out. I decided to do the cockpit area over again. The instructions say that using stain here is okay.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from fatih79 in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
More interior details completed. I ended up braking a thwart while trying to get it under the cap rail. Fitting them close to the inner hull width means that one has to bend them slightly and they can break easily. Raising one end up so it touches the cap rail makes it easier to insert the other end. I'm still working on the wider thwart for the mast and need to paint the filler piece at the bow red.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from fatih79 in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Molding strip under friezes and some interior details completed. The red paint is much smoother than it appears here. I applied 4 coats thinned just a little bit with water. Used 1/64" and 1/32" shims to get the floor spacing as close to the plan as I could. The front platform required a lot of sanding and fitting to place it low enough thereby making room for the risers which I have yet to work on.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from Aussie048 in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Got the cap rail sanded and shaped today. Average width is around 0.100 inch except where it flares slightly at the bow.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from Aussie048 in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Decided to fix the shear plank by redoing the planking once more. I realize that I could have left things as they where but I need planking experience anyway. After sanding the hull with 400 sandpaper to a near sheen I applied the stain, 1 part Golden Oak to 3 Parts Natural and a coat of Wipe-On-Poly. After removing the bulkhead centers I thinned the bulkhead tops to 3/64". 3/64" + 1/32" plank + 1/64" overhang will give a 3/32" cap rail. I stained the hull inside as well. I then added the cap rail which is now ready for sanding.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from MEDDO in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
More interior details completed. I ended up braking a thwart while trying to get it under the cap rail. Fitting them close to the inner hull width means that one has to bend them slightly and they can break easily. Raising one end up so it touches the cap rail makes it easier to insert the other end. I'm still working on the wider thwart for the mast and need to paint the filler piece at the bow red.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from fnkershner in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Got the cap rail sanded and shaped today. Average width is around 0.100 inch except where it flares slightly at the bow.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from WackoWolf in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
More interior details completed. I ended up braking a thwart while trying to get it under the cap rail. Fitting them close to the inner hull width means that one has to bend them slightly and they can break easily. Raising one end up so it touches the cap rail makes it easier to insert the other end. I'm still working on the wider thwart for the mast and need to paint the filler piece at the bow red.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from Aussie048 in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
More interior details completed. I ended up braking a thwart while trying to get it under the cap rail. Fitting them close to the inner hull width means that one has to bend them slightly and they can break easily. Raising one end up so it touches the cap rail makes it easier to insert the other end. I'm still working on the wider thwart for the mast and need to paint the filler piece at the bow red.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from fnkershner in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
More interior details completed. I ended up braking a thwart while trying to get it under the cap rail. Fitting them close to the inner hull width means that one has to bend them slightly and they can break easily. Raising one end up so it touches the cap rail makes it easier to insert the other end. I'm still working on the wider thwart for the mast and need to paint the filler piece at the bow red.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from WackoWolf in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Molding strip under friezes and some interior details completed. The red paint is much smoother than it appears here. I applied 4 coats thinned just a little bit with water. Used 1/64" and 1/32" shims to get the floor spacing as close to the plan as I could. The front platform required a lot of sanding and fitting to place it low enough thereby making room for the risers which I have yet to work on.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from Aussie048 in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Molding strip under friezes and some interior details completed. The red paint is much smoother than it appears here. I applied 4 coats thinned just a little bit with water. Used 1/64" and 1/32" shims to get the floor spacing as close to the plan as I could. The front platform required a lot of sanding and fitting to place it low enough thereby making room for the risers which I have yet to work on.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from fnkershner in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Molding strip under friezes and some interior details completed. The red paint is much smoother than it appears here. I applied 4 coats thinned just a little bit with water. Used 1/64" and 1/32" shims to get the floor spacing as close to the plan as I could. The front platform required a lot of sanding and fitting to place it low enough thereby making room for the risers which I have yet to work on.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from mtaylor in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Molding strip under friezes and some interior details completed. The red paint is much smoother than it appears here. I applied 4 coats thinned just a little bit with water. Used 1/64" and 1/32" shims to get the floor spacing as close to the plan as I could. The front platform required a lot of sanding and fitting to place it low enough thereby making room for the risers which I have yet to work on.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from Ryland Craze in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Molding strip under friezes and some interior details completed. The red paint is much smoother than it appears here. I applied 4 coats thinned just a little bit with water. Used 1/64" and 1/32" shims to get the floor spacing as close to the plan as I could. The front platform required a lot of sanding and fitting to place it low enough thereby making room for the risers which I have yet to work on.
-
Stuntflyer reacted to Mike Y in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Now the progress is really fast!
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from Aussie048 in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
First two friezes finished. Used Krylon Workable Fixatif 1306 to protect them and 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive. If you happen to get some of the adhesive on the out side there is a great product called UnStik (see below) that will easily remove any excess without harming the frieze or the planking. I used it for many years when I was in the picture frame business. You can even use it on glossy photos.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from Jack Panzeca in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
David and Chuck, thanks! much appreciated. Chuck, you said in the Longboat Instruction Manual ". . take your time and treat each plank as a small milestone", which I think is great advice. I am trying to do this with each step regardless of how simple it may seem.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from fnkershner in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Decided to fix the shear plank by redoing the planking once more. I realize that I could have left things as they where but I need planking experience anyway. After sanding the hull with 400 sandpaper to a near sheen I applied the stain, 1 part Golden Oak to 3 Parts Natural and a coat of Wipe-On-Poly. After removing the bulkhead centers I thinned the bulkhead tops to 3/64". 3/64" + 1/32" plank + 1/64" overhang will give a 3/32" cap rail. I stained the hull inside as well. I then added the cap rail which is now ready for sanding.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from dcicero in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
First two friezes finished. Used Krylon Workable Fixatif 1306 to protect them and 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive. If you happen to get some of the adhesive on the out side there is a great product called UnStik (see below) that will easily remove any excess without harming the frieze or the planking. I used it for many years when I was in the picture frame business. You can even use it on glossy photos.
-
Stuntflyer got a reaction from Chuck in 18th Century Longboat by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - Model Shipways
First two friezes finished. Used Krylon Workable Fixatif 1306 to protect them and 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive. If you happen to get some of the adhesive on the out side there is a great product called UnStik (see below) that will easily remove any excess without harming the frieze or the planking. I used it for many years when I was in the picture frame business. You can even use it on glossy photos.
Our Emblem ®
