Stuntflyer

I'm continuing to raise some frames while cleaning and assembling other frames.
 
Here are five "tall frames in place with the two "short" frames waiting their turn. 
You'll notice the blocks for the sweep ports there too.

 
The two short frames have now been added and the sweep port blocks have been roughly shaped. More fine tuning is needed.
I'm also checking the frame locations with the supplied templates and my height gauge to check the sweep port and gun port locations.

Rusty,
 
Something that you might want to consider with regard to those top timber jig pieces. Not that you are, just don't assume that by clamping them together that the frames automatically square up. They might need to be tweaked a bit with a toothpick or something like that. I know that Chuck did and so did I.
 
Mike

Rusty,
 
Something that you might want to consider with regard to those top timber jig pieces. Not that you are, just don't assume that by clamping them together that the frames automatically square up. They might need to be tweaked a bit with a toothpick or something like that. I know that Chuck did and so did I.
 
Mike

Thank you Rick and Ben.
 
Thank you for that information. One reason I haven't taped them together yet was I was wondering about that but had yet to confirm it.
 
Thanks again!  

Rusty,
 
Something that you might want to consider with regard to those top timber jig pieces. Not that you are, just don't assume that by clamping them together that the frames automatically square up. They might need to be tweaked a bit with a toothpick or something like that. I know that Chuck did and so did I.
 
Mike

Rusty,
 
Something that you might want to consider with regard to those top timber jig pieces. Not that you are, just don't assume that by clamping them together that the frames automatically square up. They might need to be tweaked a bit with a toothpick or something like that. I know that Chuck did and so did I.
 
Mike

When doing the belaying pins, I found that paper backed fingernail files in various grits worked out nicely. They are great for smoothing out the wood as you’re turning them on the Dremel. Depending on what section of the belaying pin that you are doing, pillar files come in handy.

When doing the belaying pins, I found that paper backed fingernail files in various grits worked out nicely. They are great for smoothing out the wood as you’re turning them on the Dremel. Depending on what section of the belaying pin that you are doing, pillar files come in handy.

When doing the belaying pins, I found that paper backed fingernail files in various grits worked out nicely. They are great for smoothing out the wood as you’re turning them on the Dremel. Depending on what section of the belaying pin that you are doing, pillar files come in handy.

Mike, Thanks for the tip.  I had figured out using fingernail files when my regular files were leaving gouges in the wood.  I have a pillar file I'll give a try as well.
 
Erik

When doing the belaying pins, I found that paper backed fingernail files in various grits worked out nicely. They are great for smoothing out the wood as you’re turning them on the Dremel. Depending on what section of the belaying pin that you are doing, pillar files come in handy.

When doing the belaying pins, I found that paper backed fingernail files in various grits worked out nicely. They are great for smoothing out the wood as you’re turning them on the Dremel. Depending on what section of the belaying pin that you are doing, pillar files come in handy.

With outdoor temperatures up to 98 degrees (37 Celsius) here this week, it was easy to want to stay indoors and work on my Cheerful.  After procrastinating for a bit, I tackled a couple of things I've been putting off.  I built the ladders.  These were a bit of a challenge as they are not straight, even though they look straight.  They actually lean aft with the sheer of the deck.  It took a while to get all the steps cut to exactly the same length, and the notches filed into the ladder sides, since I did all that by hand.  They wound up turning out the way I had hoped with the right amount of lean and both ladders being symmetrical when compared with one another.  I know the model will rarely be viewed from dead ahead or dead astern, but hey, you have to put your best foot forward.
 
The other thing I had been procrastinating was making the belaying pins.  In my 45 years of model making I've never fashioned a part using a power tool.  So, the photo you see below is my first attempt at making a belaying pin.  I used the Dremel rotary tool my dad gave me as a gift in 1985 when I was fifteen years old.  I followed the dimensions Mike (Stuntflyer) had used for the belaying pins on his Cheerful build.   The pin is .375" long, or 18" in 1/48 scale.  I turned the square stock down to .045" in diameter, then shaped the top.  The bottom shaft was then reduced to .030" in diameter.  It looks rough obviously, but turned out OK for a first attempt.  The little collar between the lower shaft and the handle looks a little clunky, so on the production pins, I'll reduce the width of that a bit.  I still have some playing around to do with which specific files I'll use, but I'm happy I got over the mental hurdle of giving it a try in the first place!
 
Erik

Glenn,  Thanks for the compliments.  I think it's just the angle of the photos for the pin rails.  They're made/shaped exactly to size from the plans.
 
Erik

Completed the Aft Bulkhead and installed the QD beams behind it.
You can see I used the laser cut door handles from Chuck, I think they look much nicer than the normal knobs.
Now on to the next Bulkhead.
 
ben

I've been assembling some frames, and they are going well. I just couldn't resist placing first frame (Aa) on the keel.
For the picture I moved the left square to the back of the frame so you can see the how it lines up with the plan.
It's now back where it belongs. Back to assembling more frames!
 

 
 

I've finished up the starboard hull planking and I must say that I'm quite happy with it. So far it's been sanded with some 180 grit sticky back sandpaper attached to soft sanders. You can find them here, just search for "soft sanders" https://www.woodcraft.com/ I prefer the coarser grit as it allows me to even out the undulations in the wood more easily than if I went with a finer grit. I'll finish up with some 320-400 in order to remove any scratches that can be seen.

I still need to add the hance piece at the quarterdeck. Once that is in I will final shape the shear of that last filler plank.

Mike

I've finished up the starboard hull planking and I must say that I'm quite happy with it. So far it's been sanded with some 180 grit sticky back sandpaper attached to soft sanders. You can find them here, just search for "soft sanders" https://www.woodcraft.com/ I prefer the coarser grit as it allows me to even out the undulations in the wood more easily than if I went with a finer grit. I'll finish up with some 320-400 in order to remove any scratches that can be seen.

I still need to add the hance piece at the quarterdeck. Once that is in I will final shape the shear of that last filler plank.

Mike

I'm continuing the char clean up and bagging the frame pieces until assemble.
Below is a set all cleaned and ready for assembly later. The laser cutting is clean and precise.
There are a total of 42 "square" frames to be made up in chapter 1.
Back to scraping and sanding.  

 

 

Coming along nicely. Keep your pencil mark-out lines as thin as possible; a thick line can lead to poor fitting joints. A harder lead (3H or higher) will keep a much sharper point. A clutch lead holder and sharpener such as below is ideal for this kind of work.
 

Thank You...
 
With the catheads completed I could finish some inboard details at the bow in preparation for fitting the bulwarks with the pissdale and other stuff.
 
In this photo you can see the the waterway was added around the perimeter of the fcastle deck.  It was done exactly like the other decks.  
 
Then I I added the final breast hook at the bow.  This was done just like the others on the deck below it.  It was laser cut in two pieces.  I made sure to bevel the inside edge so I got a tight fit against the bulwarks and stem.  I added nine bolts that stood proud using 30lb black fishing line.   Then it was painted red.
 

 
Lastly,  I added the thin an delicate molding strip on the inboard bulwarks.   If this is made too heavy it would just look bad.  So I made sure it was very thin and not too wide.  Its a nice feature on the model actually.  You guys wont have to worry about scraping the fancy profile into a strip of wood.  I laser cut these for you with the profile.  But I didnt use wood.  I laser cut them from very thin syre-nite acrylic.  This stuff is awesome really.  It is very, very flexible.  And we will need it to be, which is why I chose to use it.  It bends so nicely without breaking.   We will need that flexibility when it has to go around the top edge of the pissdales which are up next.   I would just recommend that you round off the top edge to make it look like a nice fancy molding strip.  Just be careful and use a fine 400 grit sandpaper.  Its beige to match the wood color but I could have actually laser cut them in red.  But for those of you who want to go natural without paint I am using the stuff that looks like boxwood.  The same stuff I used for the stern lights etc.   So you must paint it red before you glue it on the hull.  
 
It runs from the aft side of the cat tail and along the sheer in the waist.  It continues all the way back to the poop bulkhead.  
 

You really must try and keep a nice run with this molding.  It should be a graceful run from bow to stern without any dips or waviness.  Follow the run of your inboard planking.  the top of the molding is flush with the top of the cap rail along the waist.
 

I've finished up the starboard hull planking and I must say that I'm quite happy with it. So far it's been sanded with some 180 grit sticky back sandpaper attached to soft sanders. You can find them here, just search for "soft sanders" https://www.woodcraft.com/ I prefer the coarser grit as it allows me to even out the undulations in the wood more easily than if I went with a finer grit. I'll finish up with some 320-400 in order to remove any scratches that can be seen.

I still need to add the hance piece at the quarterdeck. Once that is in I will final shape the shear of that last filler plank.

Mike

My finished Longboat, a very rewarding and humbling experience.
 
A big thank you to everyone for all your support over the past eight months. You have kept me going when I was seriously in doubt. I know that this wonderful group of people here on MSW will help me to move forward and I look forward to sharing thoughts and ideas with other members in the future.
 
Now, if I could only decide on what to build next?
 

 

 

 
 
 

Mike,
 
I’ve read your Winnie log several times, and it’s truly an amazing model. Thanks for reminding me that your model was built without treenails, it’s a very nice look.
 
Best Regards …. Rick

I've finished up the starboard hull planking and I must say that I'm quite happy with it. So far it's been sanded with some 180 grit sticky back sandpaper attached to soft sanders. You can find them here, just search for "soft sanders" https://www.woodcraft.com/ I prefer the coarser grit as it allows me to even out the undulations in the wood more easily than if I went with a finer grit. I'll finish up with some 320-400 in order to remove any scratches that can be seen.

I still need to add the hance piece at the quarterdeck. Once that is in I will final shape the shear of that last filler plank.

Mike