mij

Hello friends,
new photos of the construction progress the BHR.
Karl  
 
 
T e i l   51

Bow rigging

 

 

 
details from sails

 

 

 
deck view details
 

 

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

Hi All
 
All the rigging is now finished.
 
All cannon doors are fitted to port side.
 
Most of the cannons are fitted.
 
Just the anchors to rope up and the stand to paint ( will make do with the stand till I get a better one ).
 
Hope all will be finished on Monday ha ha.
 
 
Denis.

MicroMark sells a micro power sander.  So far, it's worked very well for those areas I can't get my fat fingers into.  The sanding pads are sticky and hold well.  I've also been cheap and cut up sandpaper and rubber cemented it to the sanding "shape". 
 

 
 
Micromark also sells this one:
 
Again, I'm finding it very useful.  I found that the tips can be trimmed to fit openings (such as gunports) which makes it a lot easier to rough them in before using a sanding stick.

Hi everyone,
 
I finally got the forecastle and quarterdeck clamps, and the waist stringer, installed.  I learned a few things. First, the clamps increase in width, therefore increasing the deck heights, the further aft. The officers got certain privileges. Second, the sheer of the moulding at the waist outboard is not the same as the sheer of the clamps and waist stringer inboard. So the waist stringer on its upper surface--where it follows the sheer outboard--is not completely parallel to its lower surface--where it follows the line of the sheer inboard. Subtle, but it shows just how complex and inter-related are all of the lines of the ship. I continue to marvel at the design.
 
I started on the clamps for the roundhouse, but then realized that these will be in the captain's cabin, and I need to think how I am going to color the cabin. The Princess Royal discussed in Rob Napier's book shows white bulkheads in the admiral and captain's cabins. I find white a bit garish, so may consider natural wood panelling. At any rate, the roundhouse clamp will have to wait until I think this through.
 
Mark
 

and here is the result:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

That's what I use even on my drill press, and also on my router table.
 
When sometings starts to turn out differently than I imagined it is a huge relief to not have to take off one hando of the worlikng piece in order to turn off the machine!

This is what I always use.
 
A feather board and a push stick.
 

 
An on/off foot pedal.
 

 
Regards
 
 mij

Package came with the ordered nails. Dimensions of nails: 8mm length, diameter 1 mm, 1.3 mm diameter head.
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

I think a solid hull is very respectable, and hardly a shortcut. The vast majority of models "back in the day" were solid hull type. As I recall the history of model building in the early 20th century, when the hobby developed, some of the most prominent builders - amateur and professional - preferred solid hulls. People like Charles Davis who felt that the solid hull gave you the best form for the hull. Davis, like Underhill, also worked with POB and POF, and implied what we emphasize on MSW -
 
the goal is to build and enjoy. It matters not the medium (plastic, paper, wood, clay) nor the subject matter (so long as it be ship related, that is). The goal is personal enjoyment. Skill levels differ, but the journey - whatever the duration- is to be savor end.

thought i would include a couple pics of my first scratch build

the first half Setup for final outside shaping.

Finally I feel I know enough to start the rigging.  I did the starboard shrouds, the fore stay and the spring lines.  I had to do the deadeye lacing three times and the spring lines twice.  I made a jig to help make the thimbles but I’m still scrap a lot.  I may have to remake the jig.  Still a long way to go but at least I’m started.
 
Bob
 

                         Starboard side
 

                         Main shrouds
 

                        Fore shrouds
 

                        Main topmast looking aft
 

                        Main masthead
 

                        Fore masthead

Thanks Max  & Frenchy!
 
It was now time to start some of the really interesting decorative work.  But first I had to tackle a job that I'd been worried about--painting parts of the hull.  I rarely use paint on my builds because (a) I like as much natural wood as possible and ( I'm worried about bleeding and running and generally screwing it up.  But in this case paint is necessary because there is some beautiful gold decorative work and to make it show up you really need a dark background.  I used Testors dark blue enamel.  First I did the stern sections.  Because I wanted them to be super smooth they required a lot of coats.
 

 
Next I installed the wales and chainwales and painted the bow sections and put on the first decorative strip.  
 

 

 
Then it was time to take a deep breath and do the rest of the painting.  I masked off the sections and went to work.
 

 
I was really happy with the results.
 

 
 
Then I started installing some of the decorative pieces.  As I mentioned earlier I was very impressed with the quality of the castings in the kit.  They required very little sanding and prep.  I painted them with gold enamel to tone them down a bit.  Also, I try to use CA glue as little as possible.  Epoxy is hard to work with so I've been using anaerobic glue that they use for industrial applications.  It doesn't work well on porous surfaces because there is supposed to be no air, but between enamel paint and metal it was great.  There are no nasty fumes (compared to CA) and it dries quickly but not so fast that you don't have time to make sure everything is where you want it.
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you for your nice comments Michael, Randy & Sjors, and thanks to everyone for visiting/using the like button.
 
Finally I have some time to spend on some other details of the ST..
I had an idea in my head about how to create my own version of the poop lantern ..
 
Too be sure I use the right dimensions I started out with an template and made sure everything was in the same scale.
 

 
Creating the frame for the glass was a bit of a struggle (after several attempts) I found a "easy" way to manufacture these ..   
I used my mill setup (with an X-Y table) to have length consistency of the individual frame parts …
 

 
And used the table saw (with some “homemade” additions) to get the needed thickness of the frame.
 


 
The result after cutting/assembling them.
 


 
I used the same technique for the muntins and assembled them with the template I made earlier to make sure they fit inside the frames.
 

 
I made a top & bottom of 2 different sized pieces of 0.6 mm finer...
... and to make life a bit easier, i used a brass bar to keep the frames in place during the gluing process.
 

 
So far so good, the wrap up will follow soon...
 

 

Thank you all for visiting, comments and for hitting the like button.
 
Continuing ...
The instructions instructs to “drill holes” in the channel for the deadeyes.
but after “all my research”, I decided to do it a bit more authentic and wanted to “carve” dedicated slots for the deadeyes and to install a “capping strip”
 

 
I “thought” I was very thorough when I marked all the positions for the slots and preventers.  
 

 
But it turned out to be a real puzzle to get everything in place.
Somehow I placed this deadeye not so nice when looking at the shooting angles of the cannon behind it..
 

 
It turns out that there’s just not much space to play around with..
After a quick fix of this mistake and moving the slots "a bit more" to the left, it became a bit better but it’s still not really perfect..
 

On this picture you can also see that i have additionally strengthened the channel with (3) nails
 


 
Here’s the final result with all the chains installed. 
At least it can shoot “straight” without damaging the deadeye and rigging 
 

 
“Another bonus”,  I rigged all the canon hatches and have now installed all the cannons on port side.
 




   
.."Quite impressive firepower" she had..
 

Thanks Captain for doing my job ro edit post
 
Idea came when I was in attic where I keep bussines archive, sorting and reducing amount of unneccesary paper in folders with old cases finished 10-20 years ago. Many empthy folders appear, some of them ruined by time, and as this is extremly booooring job, while doing this with half of brain, another half was thinking about many silly things ... saw this metal rail in ruined folder ... test streight and elasticity by fingers ... and ...why not?

Nice one CaptainSteve.
 
Regards
 
   mij

ADDENDUM:
Here are some pictures lifted from Nenad's log detailing his brilliant idea to use the metal clip from an ordinary file-folder:
 

I'm still alive 
Our move to the new house is finally finished, my new shipyard has built up and soon it will be resumed here   
 

 

 

 

 
 
Stay tuned

Thank you Dick, I think I'll do it the same way as you did.....looks very good
 
And here is another chair for Antony and a warm welcome to you and greetings to England.
 
Some more progress on the gabare, some components I had to do twice, but it was fun :) I have to learn handle the milling machine and the handling of the carving knives. But all is difficult at the beginning
 
Here some pics:
 

 

 

 

Further to my build i have enclosed a photo or two.

Thanks to everyone for the positive feedback. It gives me great encouragement for further work.
I decided to make wales from separated parts. It took me about 40 hours to make and stick 4+4 wales nad 1+1 black strake .