Fam

You have done lot of interesting researches, have to admit that symbology laying beind any part of these flags is very complex!
Chapeau for the interesting lesson of italian history, it's always interesting to learn something new
Ciao
Fam

You have done lot of interesting researches, have to admit that symbology laying beind any part of these flags is very complex!
Chapeau for the interesting lesson of italian history, it's always interesting to learn something new
Ciao
Fam

You have done lot of interesting researches, have to admit that symbology laying beind any part of these flags is very complex!
Chapeau for the interesting lesson of italian history, it's always interesting to learn something new
Ciao
Fam

Friday, May 22, 2015  
Due to a common cold, but quite strong, and other commitments, I haven't produced a lot this week. . in practice I was not even able to completely the installation of the gunwale: still missing are the two segments at the stern.
However the work had gone smoothly. The most challenging part was to cut openings where to insert the sheave blocks for the fore sheet, amidships, and for the main sheet at the stern.
Hoping better achievements for the next days.
Regards, Jack.
01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150521_173046_zpshd5letcm.jpg

02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150521_171300_zpsosiucbws.jpg

03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150521_171131_zpsn36jvgr3.jpg

 

Hello Fam,
I appreciate your attention to this detail of the flag.
Yes, I know of the existence of a version of the lion bringing the sword, but as for I know it was used only by the land troops.
I was fascinated by the possibility to use the lion with sword, but definetly, after checking many paintings, books and drawings, I abandoned this idea, since there was no evidences at all of its use for the military ships.
The lion holding the sword instead of the book was also a symbol of the justice administration, so it is found in many buildings which were part of the Venetian Republic.
Since the battle of Lepanto che Venetian fleet used a flag with the lion bringing a cross (defender of Christianity!), and so remained until the conquest by the Napoleon troops.
The only deviation was the flag of the flagships, which was made like in the previous post (a more famous way to represent the venice flag).
If you have the occasion to go to Venice again, you can go to the Museo Correr, which has a lot of paintings of naval battles, many contemporary.
In one way is boring, but you can see all the flags used by the ships!
Below you can find some photos to give some consistence to what I said:
 
first photo (taken from Alinari archives): the flag used by the Venetian fleet at the battle of Lepanto, from Museo Correr.
second photo: A detail of one of the ships of one of the paintings from the Museo Correr.
third photo: a detail of one drawing taken from the collection of Biblioteca di Padova;
fourth photo: a detail of a painting from the Atlas made in 1785 by Gian Maria Maffioletti.
fifth photo: a flag used by land troops, with the above mentioned sword raised (but book open!), from Museo Navale di Venezia.
six photo: one of the many sculptures present in Italian buildings with lion with sword raised (and book closed!)
If you are interested, I can suggest some sources of informations (not easy, all sparse informations to be collected)
in anycase try the books written by Guido Ercole, edited by Gruppo Modellistico Trentino, which have a lot of interesting informations about this argument!

Thank you Mark
unfortunately I've no skill at all, nor the tools, to turn anything, apart from some very limited capability with a power drill that I transformed into a homemade lathe. I use it for shaping the masts and yards:
 


 
No possibility with any metal, it's too imprecise!
 
And this is a big problem for me, because I don't know how/where to get the guns and carronades barrels: the optimum would be to turn them in brass, this is the obvious solution. In fact, I've contacted Johann (archjofo) who is building Le Créole french corvette of 1827: I cross-checked his carronades with Ancre plans and apparently the design is the same. Unfortunately he got his barrels from a friend, so this is not a viable solution... sobh
Now I've a half-committment with a friend of mine, but he's going to have a babyboy and so I see very few possibilities... double sobh :(
Cheers
Fam

Thank you Mark
unfortunately I've no skill at all, nor the tools, to turn anything, apart from some very limited capability with a power drill that I transformed into a homemade lathe. I use it for shaping the masts and yards:
 


 
No possibility with any metal, it's too imprecise!
 
And this is a big problem for me, because I don't know how/where to get the guns and carronades barrels: the optimum would be to turn them in brass, this is the obvious solution. In fact, I've contacted Johann (archjofo) who is building Le Créole french corvette of 1827: I cross-checked his carronades with Ancre plans and apparently the design is the same. Unfortunately he got his barrels from a friend, so this is not a viable solution... sobh
Now I've a half-committment with a friend of mine, but he's going to have a babyboy and so I see very few possibilities... double sobh :(
Cheers
Fam

Hi Cristiano
is your Polacre a merchant or a military vessel? Because I remember from my last visit to Venice that on military ship flags the S.Marco lion helds a sword in its fore right paw. Maybe this is not your case, just a warning
Ciao
Fam

Hi Cristiano
is your Polacre a merchant or a military vessel? Because I remember from my last visit to Venice that on military ship flags the S.Marco lion helds a sword in its fore right paw. Maybe this is not your case, just a warning
Ciao
Fam

Thank you Mark
unfortunately I've no skill at all, nor the tools, to turn anything, apart from some very limited capability with a power drill that I transformed into a homemade lathe. I use it for shaping the masts and yards:
 


 
No possibility with any metal, it's too imprecise!
 
And this is a big problem for me, because I don't know how/where to get the guns and carronades barrels: the optimum would be to turn them in brass, this is the obvious solution. In fact, I've contacted Johann (archjofo) who is building Le Créole french corvette of 1827: I cross-checked his carronades with Ancre plans and apparently the design is the same. Unfortunately he got his barrels from a friend, so this is not a viable solution... sobh
Now I've a half-committment with a friend of mine, but he's going to have a babyboy and so I see very few possibilities... double sobh :(
Cheers
Fam

I decided to fight against my laziness and I modified the Venetian flag.
Now is more similar to the one that should have got this polacre.
Now the cross is stright and big, as it should be, and I added the sea.
Some explanation is needed, since the venetian flags were filled of symbols, that varied during the centuries.
in the first photo there is the modified flag, that "theoretically" will be added to the model (until new modifications are made!).
the second is an original flag, of the first years of 1700, present at the Venice Naval Museum.
The difference is the presence of a coat of arms instead of the open book.
But it should be considered a variation from the "rather" standardised one.
the third photo is a section of the painting of the "Sacra Famiglia" ship, where is clearly visible this type of flag (see old posts).
the fourth photo is an original flag of a Venetian flagship, dated between 1660-1675 (Which is of the type more famous).
the fifth is the Venetian Lion made by Carpaccio in 1516.
the last two photos are just to explain better the meaning of sea in the flag:
The lion has two legs on the sea and two legs on the land, to symbolize that its power is extended both on sea and land.

Very nicely done, Fam.  The sheaves look perfect. 
 
On the paper and punching a hole.... can you turn brass?  Maybe make a punch with a sharp point?

May 20th, 2015
 
Hi all
here I am to satisfy someone’s curiosity...
 
Firstly, my own personal porcupine! LOL
 

 
The lighter spot on the deck, in front of stbd gunport #3, is where I had to sand off the sealer to correct a defect, still to be fixed with another coat of sealer.
 
And now the tests for the water scuppers lining.
I drilled 3 holes 2mm diameter (left, for the scuppers) and 2 holes 5mm diameter (right, for the hawse holes) in a scrap wood piece. Then cut 2 disks from a piece of thick paper, about 4mm diameter, and 2 other disks of 7mm diameter. The problem with this method is to give the paper a sufficient lip surface to let the glue hold down the paper on the border of the holes when the paper is pressed into the hole... I tried with 1mm wide lip, but maybe 0.5mm is feasible if a thinner paper is used.
 

 
The last 2mm hole is used for the second method, using a paper roll (standard printer paper) to be inserted in the hole. The roll is then cut with scissors as close as possible to the wood surface, then the paper is soaked with glue and pressed to the hole border using a conic tool that creates the lip. This is similar to the technique plumbers use to prepare the ends of metal pipes for leak-proof connections.
 

 
And this is the final effect after a coat of dark gray acrylic paint... I didn’t even try to be precise with the brush tip, and the lining lips are far from perfect, but considering the size I think the result it’s not bad!
Maybe a slightly lighter shade of gray...
 

 
Just one consideration about the technique: gluing a paper disk above the hole borders, then pressing the tip of a tool trough the disk center to create the hole, is easier where accessibility for scissors is poor. Conversely, the pipe method seems to give a better result (well, to me), but free space for the scissors is needed.
So I think I’m going to use the first method on the inside, which will be also partially hidden by guns and various deck fittings, and the second method outside, where the lining will be perfectly visible.
Finally, all these holes were at 90deg to the wood surface, things may be slightly different when the hole is angled...
 
Next test: the sheave block pulleys.
The scope was to simulate the pulleys with something that gives the ‘idea’ of a pulley, even if the grove is not visible. Also consider that most pulleys will have a rope passing through, so will be only partially visible.
The method I used is the one I’ve already described, and you can see in the picture below the tool I used to punch the styrene disk out from the 1mm sheet. The sequence is straight-forward, no need for further explanation I think.
 

 
I painted the disks with bronze acrylic paint, but the result is maybe a bit too dark...
 

 
The look is not a shining brass as I’ve seen in many models, but I prefer not seeing any shine in my model, I think it’s too evident and not realistic... well maybe with the exclusion of the ship’s bell!
Don’t know, what do you think?? Any comment is really appreciated.
 

 
And finally yesterday evening I added the stem pieces/cut-water to the bow: the piece is made of three main parts, the other joints lines are just simulated... well, it will be partially painted and partially copper sheeted, so simulating the joint is a non-sense, but I wanted to see how it looks!
 


 
I had to cut a slot in the bulwark external layer of Yellowheart planks, because this layer is glued externally to the extension of the false keel, while the internal profile of the stem timber exactly follows the false keel profile.
Ideally, the hook of the stem timbers (the upper appendix for the main stay that is hold by the clamp in the above picture) has an extension internally to the bulwark that I added as a separate piece before planking the bulwarks: you can see it in the first picture of today, same color of the stem pieces.
If you compare this detail to the same in JackAubrey’s build-log, he cut all the way through the bulwark and the extension is integral with the stem timbers... definitely a better approach, but I was too late !
 
I also had to cut a slot in the forward side of hull basswood planking, to 2/3 of the height down from the wale (about where a darker strake is laying), to let the cut-water reach the false keel profile. Apart from this, the matching is quite good and there is a little slot left free for the second planking layer.
 
I’m now preparing the keel pieces; they will be two, and will be joined to the cut-water and to each other by scarph joints (where the green headed pin is visible). Cut-water and keel pieces will be fixed more strongly to the false keel by means of 2mm wooden pins. On top of the keel, the ‘shoe’ will be added covering the fixing pins. The second step in front of the green pin is just the housing for this piece.
Two holes will have to be drilled in the keel and shoe pieces for the bolts of the model supports.
 
And this is the end for today
Cheers
Fam

May 20th, 2015
 
Hi all
here I am to satisfy someone’s curiosity...
 
Firstly, my own personal porcupine! LOL
 

 
The lighter spot on the deck, in front of stbd gunport #3, is where I had to sand off the sealer to correct a defect, still to be fixed with another coat of sealer.
 
And now the tests for the water scuppers lining.
I drilled 3 holes 2mm diameter (left, for the scuppers) and 2 holes 5mm diameter (right, for the hawse holes) in a scrap wood piece. Then cut 2 disks from a piece of thick paper, about 4mm diameter, and 2 other disks of 7mm diameter. The problem with this method is to give the paper a sufficient lip surface to let the glue hold down the paper on the border of the holes when the paper is pressed into the hole... I tried with 1mm wide lip, but maybe 0.5mm is feasible if a thinner paper is used.
 

 
The last 2mm hole is used for the second method, using a paper roll (standard printer paper) to be inserted in the hole. The roll is then cut with scissors as close as possible to the wood surface, then the paper is soaked with glue and pressed to the hole border using a conic tool that creates the lip. This is similar to the technique plumbers use to prepare the ends of metal pipes for leak-proof connections.
 

 
And this is the final effect after a coat of dark gray acrylic paint... I didn’t even try to be precise with the brush tip, and the lining lips are far from perfect, but considering the size I think the result it’s not bad!
Maybe a slightly lighter shade of gray...
 

 
Just one consideration about the technique: gluing a paper disk above the hole borders, then pressing the tip of a tool trough the disk center to create the hole, is easier where accessibility for scissors is poor. Conversely, the pipe method seems to give a better result (well, to me), but free space for the scissors is needed.
So I think I’m going to use the first method on the inside, which will be also partially hidden by guns and various deck fittings, and the second method outside, where the lining will be perfectly visible.
Finally, all these holes were at 90deg to the wood surface, things may be slightly different when the hole is angled...
 
Next test: the sheave block pulleys.
The scope was to simulate the pulleys with something that gives the ‘idea’ of a pulley, even if the grove is not visible. Also consider that most pulleys will have a rope passing through, so will be only partially visible.
The method I used is the one I’ve already described, and you can see in the picture below the tool I used to punch the styrene disk out from the 1mm sheet. The sequence is straight-forward, no need for further explanation I think.
 

 
I painted the disks with bronze acrylic paint, but the result is maybe a bit too dark...
 

 
The look is not a shining brass as I’ve seen in many models, but I prefer not seeing any shine in my model, I think it’s too evident and not realistic... well maybe with the exclusion of the ship’s bell!
Don’t know, what do you think?? Any comment is really appreciated.
 

 
And finally yesterday evening I added the stem pieces/cut-water to the bow: the piece is made of three main parts, the other joints lines are just simulated... well, it will be partially painted and partially copper sheeted, so simulating the joint is a non-sense, but I wanted to see how it looks!
 


 
I had to cut a slot in the bulwark external layer of Yellowheart planks, because this layer is glued externally to the extension of the false keel, while the internal profile of the stem timber exactly follows the false keel profile.
Ideally, the hook of the stem timbers (the upper appendix for the main stay that is hold by the clamp in the above picture) has an extension internally to the bulwark that I added as a separate piece before planking the bulwarks: you can see it in the first picture of today, same color of the stem pieces.
If you compare this detail to the same in JackAubrey’s build-log, he cut all the way through the bulwark and the extension is integral with the stem timbers... definitely a better approach, but I was too late !
 
I also had to cut a slot in the forward side of hull basswood planking, to 2/3 of the height down from the wale (about where a darker strake is laying), to let the cut-water reach the false keel profile. Apart from this, the matching is quite good and there is a little slot left free for the second planking layer.
 
I’m now preparing the keel pieces; they will be two, and will be joined to the cut-water and to each other by scarph joints (where the green headed pin is visible). Cut-water and keel pieces will be fixed more strongly to the false keel by means of 2mm wooden pins. On top of the keel, the ‘shoe’ will be added covering the fixing pins. The second step in front of the green pin is just the housing for this piece.
Two holes will have to be drilled in the keel and shoe pieces for the bolts of the model supports.
 
And this is the end for today
Cheers
Fam

May 20th, 2015
 
Hi all
here I am to satisfy someone’s curiosity...
 
Firstly, my own personal porcupine! LOL
 

 
The lighter spot on the deck, in front of stbd gunport #3, is where I had to sand off the sealer to correct a defect, still to be fixed with another coat of sealer.
 
And now the tests for the water scuppers lining.
I drilled 3 holes 2mm diameter (left, for the scuppers) and 2 holes 5mm diameter (right, for the hawse holes) in a scrap wood piece. Then cut 2 disks from a piece of thick paper, about 4mm diameter, and 2 other disks of 7mm diameter. The problem with this method is to give the paper a sufficient lip surface to let the glue hold down the paper on the border of the holes when the paper is pressed into the hole... I tried with 1mm wide lip, but maybe 0.5mm is feasible if a thinner paper is used.
 

 
The last 2mm hole is used for the second method, using a paper roll (standard printer paper) to be inserted in the hole. The roll is then cut with scissors as close as possible to the wood surface, then the paper is soaked with glue and pressed to the hole border using a conic tool that creates the lip. This is similar to the technique plumbers use to prepare the ends of metal pipes for leak-proof connections.
 

 
And this is the final effect after a coat of dark gray acrylic paint... I didn’t even try to be precise with the brush tip, and the lining lips are far from perfect, but considering the size I think the result it’s not bad!
Maybe a slightly lighter shade of gray...
 

 
Just one consideration about the technique: gluing a paper disk above the hole borders, then pressing the tip of a tool trough the disk center to create the hole, is easier where accessibility for scissors is poor. Conversely, the pipe method seems to give a better result (well, to me), but free space for the scissors is needed.
So I think I’m going to use the first method on the inside, which will be also partially hidden by guns and various deck fittings, and the second method outside, where the lining will be perfectly visible.
Finally, all these holes were at 90deg to the wood surface, things may be slightly different when the hole is angled...
 
Next test: the sheave block pulleys.
The scope was to simulate the pulleys with something that gives the ‘idea’ of a pulley, even if the grove is not visible. Also consider that most pulleys will have a rope passing through, so will be only partially visible.
The method I used is the one I’ve already described, and you can see in the picture below the tool I used to punch the styrene disk out from the 1mm sheet. The sequence is straight-forward, no need for further explanation I think.
 

 
I painted the disks with bronze acrylic paint, but the result is maybe a bit too dark...
 

 
The look is not a shining brass as I’ve seen in many models, but I prefer not seeing any shine in my model, I think it’s too evident and not realistic... well maybe with the exclusion of the ship’s bell!
Don’t know, what do you think?? Any comment is really appreciated.
 

 
And finally yesterday evening I added the stem pieces/cut-water to the bow: the piece is made of three main parts, the other joints lines are just simulated... well, it will be partially painted and partially copper sheeted, so simulating the joint is a non-sense, but I wanted to see how it looks!
 


 
I had to cut a slot in the bulwark external layer of Yellowheart planks, because this layer is glued externally to the extension of the false keel, while the internal profile of the stem timber exactly follows the false keel profile.
Ideally, the hook of the stem timbers (the upper appendix for the main stay that is hold by the clamp in the above picture) has an extension internally to the bulwark that I added as a separate piece before planking the bulwarks: you can see it in the first picture of today, same color of the stem pieces.
If you compare this detail to the same in JackAubrey’s build-log, he cut all the way through the bulwark and the extension is integral with the stem timbers... definitely a better approach, but I was too late !
 
I also had to cut a slot in the forward side of hull basswood planking, to 2/3 of the height down from the wale (about where a darker strake is laying), to let the cut-water reach the false keel profile. Apart from this, the matching is quite good and there is a little slot left free for the second planking layer.
 
I’m now preparing the keel pieces; they will be two, and will be joined to the cut-water and to each other by scarph joints (where the green headed pin is visible). Cut-water and keel pieces will be fixed more strongly to the false keel by means of 2mm wooden pins. On top of the keel, the ‘shoe’ will be added covering the fixing pins. The second step in front of the green pin is just the housing for this piece.
Two holes will have to be drilled in the keel and shoe pieces for the bolts of the model supports.
 
And this is the end for today
Cheers
Fam

May 20th, 2015
 
Hi all
here I am to satisfy someone’s curiosity...
 
Firstly, my own personal porcupine! LOL
 

 
The lighter spot on the deck, in front of stbd gunport #3, is where I had to sand off the sealer to correct a defect, still to be fixed with another coat of sealer.
 
And now the tests for the water scuppers lining.
I drilled 3 holes 2mm diameter (left, for the scuppers) and 2 holes 5mm diameter (right, for the hawse holes) in a scrap wood piece. Then cut 2 disks from a piece of thick paper, about 4mm diameter, and 2 other disks of 7mm diameter. The problem with this method is to give the paper a sufficient lip surface to let the glue hold down the paper on the border of the holes when the paper is pressed into the hole... I tried with 1mm wide lip, but maybe 0.5mm is feasible if a thinner paper is used.
 

 
The last 2mm hole is used for the second method, using a paper roll (standard printer paper) to be inserted in the hole. The roll is then cut with scissors as close as possible to the wood surface, then the paper is soaked with glue and pressed to the hole border using a conic tool that creates the lip. This is similar to the technique plumbers use to prepare the ends of metal pipes for leak-proof connections.
 

 
And this is the final effect after a coat of dark gray acrylic paint... I didn’t even try to be precise with the brush tip, and the lining lips are far from perfect, but considering the size I think the result it’s not bad!
Maybe a slightly lighter shade of gray...
 

 
Just one consideration about the technique: gluing a paper disk above the hole borders, then pressing the tip of a tool trough the disk center to create the hole, is easier where accessibility for scissors is poor. Conversely, the pipe method seems to give a better result (well, to me), but free space for the scissors is needed.
So I think I’m going to use the first method on the inside, which will be also partially hidden by guns and various deck fittings, and the second method outside, where the lining will be perfectly visible.
Finally, all these holes were at 90deg to the wood surface, things may be slightly different when the hole is angled...
 
Next test: the sheave block pulleys.
The scope was to simulate the pulleys with something that gives the ‘idea’ of a pulley, even if the grove is not visible. Also consider that most pulleys will have a rope passing through, so will be only partially visible.
The method I used is the one I’ve already described, and you can see in the picture below the tool I used to punch the styrene disk out from the 1mm sheet. The sequence is straight-forward, no need for further explanation I think.
 

 
I painted the disks with bronze acrylic paint, but the result is maybe a bit too dark...
 

 
The look is not a shining brass as I’ve seen in many models, but I prefer not seeing any shine in my model, I think it’s too evident and not realistic... well maybe with the exclusion of the ship’s bell!
Don’t know, what do you think?? Any comment is really appreciated.
 

 
And finally yesterday evening I added the stem pieces/cut-water to the bow: the piece is made of three main parts, the other joints lines are just simulated... well, it will be partially painted and partially copper sheeted, so simulating the joint is a non-sense, but I wanted to see how it looks!
 


 
I had to cut a slot in the bulwark external layer of Yellowheart planks, because this layer is glued externally to the extension of the false keel, while the internal profile of the stem timber exactly follows the false keel profile.
Ideally, the hook of the stem timbers (the upper appendix for the main stay that is hold by the clamp in the above picture) has an extension internally to the bulwark that I added as a separate piece before planking the bulwarks: you can see it in the first picture of today, same color of the stem pieces.
If you compare this detail to the same in JackAubrey’s build-log, he cut all the way through the bulwark and the extension is integral with the stem timbers... definitely a better approach, but I was too late !
 
I also had to cut a slot in the forward side of hull basswood planking, to 2/3 of the height down from the wale (about where a darker strake is laying), to let the cut-water reach the false keel profile. Apart from this, the matching is quite good and there is a little slot left free for the second planking layer.
 
I’m now preparing the keel pieces; they will be two, and will be joined to the cut-water and to each other by scarph joints (where the green headed pin is visible). Cut-water and keel pieces will be fixed more strongly to the false keel by means of 2mm wooden pins. On top of the keel, the ‘shoe’ will be added covering the fixing pins. The second step in front of the green pin is just the housing for this piece.
Two holes will have to be drilled in the keel and shoe pieces for the bolts of the model supports.
 
And this is the end for today
Cheers
Fam

Hi all
yesterday I tried a variation to Tlevine method for scuppers lead lining, that I’m hoping to use on the bulwark outside (Tlevine’s method on the inside end).
I got inspiration from the model of the Dutch brig Irene (formerly HMS Grasshopper), a British built brig of 1806, which I’ve seen in Annapolis US Navy Academy museum...
 


 
On the outside of the hull the scuppers look like a pipe cut at an angle, flush with the hull surface...
 


 
Unfortunately the inboard ends of the scuppers are totally missing (!), an evident error of the model.
So my idea was to roll a strip of thin paper around a drill bit, let’s say 1.5-1.75mm diameter bit for a 2mm scupper hole. The paper is glued to itself, creating a small pipe. The pipe is then slipped and glued into the scupper from outside, and cut flush when glue is set. Finally painted medium gray.
I did another test on the same scrap piece of wood where i'm doing the other tests: this evening will cut it and see how it looks like. Tomorrow hope I have something new to show you.
 
Cheers
Fam

May 15th, 2015
 
Hi all
lot of work but so little to show...!
I’ve completed the weather deck treenailing, sanded and sealed with matt sanding sealer. Then I’ve cut the gunports and started treenailing the bulwarks. Finally I’ve drilled the water scuppers, but unfortunately don’t have images of this last job.
 
So, some pictures of the various phases:
Treenailing... well, deck and bulwark and gunports were not done in subsequent steps because treenailing is so boring that I couldn’t resist the temptation of jumping to other tasks here and there...  
 

 
This is a small area of the deck that I’ve already sanded to see the final effect...
 

 
The holes are marked by pencil, then punched with a needle point and drilled at 0.6mm. Then the tip of the nail is inserted  with some white glue, let dry, cut as close as possible to the deck surface and sanded flush (which also helps cleaning from any residual glue).
 
And this is an overall shot of the entire deck, just to give an idea. I left some alternate free areas for better accessibility, then cut the wooden pegs flush with the deck and treenailed the remaining areas.
 

 
I couldn’t resist the temptation to cut the gunports because wanted to see the result of my building method for their framing...
Here you see the Pearwood framing exposed, and contrasting with the Yellowheart wood of the bulwarks planking. Also evident is the upward tapering of the bulwark, as per Ancre plans.
 


 
And the following pictures show the treenailing test for the bulwarks (inboard-outboard). Treenails are Birchwood toothpicks, the same material as for the deck. Treenailing extends only to the area that will not be painted, so only to the first 4 strakes down from the bulwark top.
 

 
A shot of the completed deck, after sanding.
Treenailing of the port bulwark is completed on the outside only: it requires about 500 nails for each side, because the vertical rows of nails are more closely spaced w.r.t. those of the deck... so still other 1500 nails to go!
 

 
Finally these pictures are taken after application of one coat of matt sanding sealer to the entire deck: difference is subtle but evident, the color of Ramin planks is warmer and the treenails are more contrasted. The yellowish deck area close to the starboard bulwark is just a reflection from the bulwark planks, not a color defect.
 




 
Finally, I drilled the water scuppers: they are 4 per side just in front of gunports 5-6-7-8, 2mm diameter, drilled in the waterways at the same level of the deck.
I used the method of progressively drilling from outside and from inside, until the two drill bits met in the middle. This way I had no problems with the linearity of the holes. I finished the inside of the scuppers, in the waterways side, with spherical diamond grinders. Could not do the same to the outside because the outward holes are in the area still to be covered by the 2nd planking.
These holes were lined with leather or lead: I’ll use the method suggested by Tlevine, in his buildlog of the HMS Atalanta... will see how it works.
 
My best regards and stay tuned!
Fam

December 23rd, 2014
 
Hi to all the MSW members,
as promised, I’m posting a final update before stopping the shipyard for the Christmas holidays.
In the last week I reached a major milestone, i.e. completing the lower hull planking. Now the 1st layer of limewood strips is set on both hull sides, from the upper border of the wale downward to the keel.
I took a couple of work sessions to smooth out all irregularities and bumps in the planking, by sanding with progressively finer sandpaper: started with 80 grit, then 120 and finally 240, for a smooth and even finish. No need of filler in any point.
I’d like to show you the result with the following pictures. I am in the background because this permits to appreciate the size of the hull, which is quite large: about 71cm long, 15cm high, 20cm wide.
 



 
Next job was to trim the planks closer to their final size and start refining their stern side.
Well, this was done during the final phases of the hull sanding, to ease the smoothing of the surface in proximity of the stern counter. This is why in the next pictures the hull finish is not smooth yet.
The next picture shows how the planks running into the counter were cut to permit accommodating the counter template.
 

 
After this was obtained, I cut the rudder hole into the counter base plywood, in order to facilitate the following works on this detail.
The job was done by firstly drilling lot of small holes along the inside of the hole profile, then joining them with a cutter and finally cleaning the hole borders with needle files and grinders.
 

 
Next was the preparation of the first counter plank, whose scope is also to finish the running of the hull planks.
I soaked a piece of limewood strip for about 15 minutes, then tried edge-bending it with the help of three clamps and a piece of suitably shaped scrap plywood.
 

 
When released from the clamps (after a couple of hours) the wood was completely dry, the spring-back was minimal and the shape was maintained.
I was so pleased by this result that later I decided to try the same technique with the bulwark 2mm thick boxwook planks (see below). Well, the result was unexpectedly negative: the spring-back was so large that the shape was completely lost. I have the doubt that probably this was due to the different characteristics of the wood, much more dense and compact w.r.t. the limewood, but also to the larger thickness (2mm vs 1.5mm) requiring much longer soaking in water and more time into the clamps.
Will try again changing these parameters, but if anybody has any suggestion for bending the boxwood I will appreciate and try it immediately.
 
Next picture shows the first counter plank positioned, while glue is setting.
A second plank was fitted right below, needing some width adaptation. The shape of the counter is such that its upper and lower border does not run parallel to each other, so the width of the plank needs to be narrower at the extremes and wider in the middle. Five full planks are needed for the counter, plus a filler at the joint with the transom.
 

 
With the hull planking completed, I could not resist the temptation to try my new wood reserve!
So I started cutting the planks for the bulwark exterior. This area is partially painted black, from the wale up to the gunport sills. Then from this level up to the gunwales the color is natural yellowish, with an ochre tone.
 

 
For this reason I decided to use boxwood to plank the bulwarks all the way up to the gunwale.
As stated above (Nov 24th) the planking thickness above the wale starts with 1.75mm for two stakes, then there is a small step (0.5mm), reducing to 1.25mm and fading to 1mm thickness at the top of the bulwark: four strakes are required above the gunport sills up to the gunwale.
So started calculating the amount of planks require for the first thicker band. The Ancre monography states that hull planks length varied between 30 and 40 feet, which translates into between 190 and 254mm in 1:48 scale, if British feet measure is used for conversion.
But my question is... did French shipwrights use British units during the Napoleonic Wars? I don’t think so! Additionally, conversion into 1:1 scale gives planks of 9-12m length, that in my opinion is a bit excessive... but again I’m ready to change mind if anyone has suggestions...
I also had to consider that my planks need to seat on the top-timbers, so in the end decided to shorten a little bit the plank length to an average 180mm, slightly varying depending on the position of the bulkheads top-timbers.
 
The following picture shows the planks being cut from boxwood billets 5mm thick: for a 1.75mm thickness I set the table-saw to 0.25mm more (2mm total), to take into account for the next sanding.
 

 
The cut is crisp and the wood is holding very well a sharp edge! Also I noticed that, regardless of the small thickness of the planks, they are really stiff and quite hard to bend... I should have anticipated the problems I described above, but was too excited by the beauty of this wood to be capable of thinking forward...
 
The next picture is not describing any work phase, but I want to show it because I like the streamlined shape of this hull, the neat alignment of top-timbers and ... the straightness of the keel as a result of hundreds of continuous cross checks... well done Andrea!!!
 

 
Two more shots of yesterday evening job.
I started laying the first strake of boxwood on top of the limewood planks: the separalion line between the two qualities of wood defines the upper border of the wale, which now shows very prominently. A small step is evident, the boxwood being 0.5mm thicker than the limewood (or even more, considering the latter has been sanded): a second layer is still missing to the wale, for a total wale thickness of 2.25mm in this area.
Also evident in the first shot, the bow, is the reason why I tried to bend edgeward the bulwark planks: the slight upward curve is quite visible. The curvature of the planks at the bow is quite strong, so I had to use again the water and hot-iron technique... have to admit that lot of previous training in doing this job with my little Knarr was very helpful, as I managed to bend the planks as required with little effort and also managed to give the small upward bending that is visible in the picture
 

 
First bulwark plank strake completed and glue drying... and run out of clamps as well
 

 
Last detail: each border of the boxwood planks is blackened with a soft pencil graphite, to simulate the tarred caulking. I’ve already used this technique with my 1:50 Pinco Genovese, and being completely satisfied decided to use it again!
 
That’s all from my ‘Brick de 24’ shipyard.
Any comment and suggestion, as always, is more than appreciated and will be happy to answer any question.
 
I wish to all the members of MSW, and to their family as well, a Happy Christmas and a Happy Prosperous New Year 2015!!
 
Fam

And now I’ll continue with the Brick de 24
 
December 05th, 2014
 
Planking, planking, planking...
After I gave up with the spiling technique for the first planking, I started at a slow pace proceeding at the same time on both sides. Standard technique, learnt with the Santisima Trinidad kit, standard problems! At the bow the planks, that cannot be curved edgeward, tend to climb up (down in the photo where the hull is capsized) so I had to force them a little bit, as much as possible without letting them to raise from the bulkheads, and to introduce several drop-planks. The same happens at the sterns where the convexity leads to converging planks.
On the keel side, conversely, the Garboard plank was easily added and then I started planking downward, with the addition of some stealer where the hull is concave.
 


 
Can you see all that pins with a tiny plastic ball tip? They are the reason for my fingertips aching... because modeling is a pleasure but sometimes also a pain...;-) Yes, I’m a Queen and Freddie fan!!
Consider that I also sliced one fingertip while shaping the stealers... So no more than 3-4 strakes per evening!
 
December 12th, 2014
 
One week later (while at the same time working on the Knarr), this was the status of the planking...
 


 
December 13th, 2014
 
The following evening...
 

 
December 14th, 2014
 
... and finally yesterday night ...
 


 
Minor milestone achieved: the starboard side is fully planked from the keel to the wale!
Next task: complete the port side, obviously... before Christmas I hope ;-)
 
In the meanwhile... the second major milestone: getting the required wood types and having them properly cut and sanded to the thickness I need.  DONE!!
 
Firstly, I tried to cut 1.75mm planks from the Cirmolo I already have. Remember? I need them for the wales, to be overlaid above the 1st limewood planking.
This is the result: very easy to slice with a "Super-Cut" blade in my Proxxon KS230, coarse pink-ish to beige texture, quite easy to bend, also accepts a good amount of torsion (90deg in a 300mm long strake) and some edgeward bending.
But the most amusing thing is... the smell of it! When freshly cut it’s like being in a Swiss mountain hut, all built in wood... I love it!
Here is it:
 

 
And this is the wood I managed to find:
Boxwood in two different shades, one is so yellow that seems to be stained, the second (which I haven’t cut yet) is more amber tone. I plan to use it for the bulwark internal and external planking (the yellowish one) and for the figurehead (the amber one). Limewood, the different shades are only due to the orientation of the pieces w.r.t the light. I plan to use it for the deck planking. Pearwood. This shade is much more reddish than the shade I already have. I will use it for the keel, cutwater, sternpost, gunport linings and deck fittings. Tanganika veneer. To be used for the second planking. Ramin. To be used for various deck fittings and guns carriages Not big quantities, but I hope enough for the scopes I intend to use it...
Here they are:
 


 
Best regards
Fam

Hi all, I’m back again with the Brick de 24 shipyard!
Past two weeks were full of satisfaction for me: I managed to reach 3 milestones, two major and one minor, in my shipyard activities... unfortunately my job kept me far from posting the updates here, so I’ll show you what I did respecting the chronology... hope you’ll enjoy it!
 
December 15th, 2014
 
First of all, even if a bit Out-of-Topic, I’m proud to introduce you to the first of my major achievements: The Viking 11th century Knarr is completed!
It started as a side project, while masting the USS Constitution Cross Section... then the latter was stopped while waiting for the blocks from The Syren Company, and the Knarr become the main project. Then I started the Brick, and it became again a side project, but I continued working on it to give some rest to my aching fingertips (will tell later!)...
 
It is a Dusek small kit, quite interesting and quick to build until the planking phase is started... then headaches started... definitely klinker planking is not easy!!
Hystorical sources are... scarce, if not absent. The kit is based on the remaining of Skuldelev 1 wreckage, which can be visited in the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde, Denmark. I slightly modified the shape of the keel tips, to give it a ... more Viking looking... well, it is intended to be a personal interpretation of a type more than the reproduction of the real ship, but this is the only modification I introduced!
 
Some interesting information on the ship can be found on this fantastic site:
http://home.online.no/~joeolavl/viking/vikingknarr.htm
and some other information about the building techniques are here:
http://home.online.no/~joeolavl/viking/norse-shipbuilding.htm
I mainly based my Knarr rigging on the Borgundknarren replica, and on some information I exchanged with Mr Jack Panzeca here on MSW.
 
As this is the build-log of the Brick de 24 I’ll post only 3 pictures of it.
 
General views


 
The helmsman position

 

November 28th, 2014
 
Hi all
a small update from the "Brick de 24" shipyard: I’m fully into the planking phase now.
I had to give up with my ideas of planking techniques, spiling and all that sort of things: there is no chance for me to get large planks, I only have 5mm wide limewood strips and was not able to find anything else.
I took some measurements, following the guidelines of Chuck’s “Lining off your hull for planking” tutorial. But the shape of the hull at the bow is such that spiling is required from the very beginning, even at the wales.
So, for the first planking I’m back to my standard techniques, with several drop planks and stealers wherever needed. For the second planking I had some ideas, but first of all a couple of pictures of the model:
 


 
Sorry for the quality of pictures, my tablet camera is not it’s better feature!
But first of all I added to the keel a couple of hexagonal nuts, ready to house the bolts for fixing the model to the display base. This is the first time I try something similar, but (as usual) lot of pictures are available here on MSW, so just copied!
 




 
Yesterday I had a hard disappointment and my disillusion grow up again, once more after several other episodes!
I went to pick up my boards of Cirmolo cut to 6mm thickness, and ... totally useless for my scopes. The texture is too coarse, unsuitable for 1:48 planking to remain in natural wood color.
Of course it's totally my fault, due to ignorance on timber characteristics: when I bought the Cirmolo log it appeared as a god choice, the color was appealing, the grain was thin. But after cutting, this is the result:
 

 
Even if cutting the planks edgewise (which was the plan to get 6mm wide planks), the texture will remain very evident and unsuitable for the bulwarks.
So now my hope is back to the original Pearwood, a bit darker but with adequate grain:
 

 
(the color in the picture is a bit altered). New hope also from the log of boxwood I'm getting prepared right now, we'll see how it looks like!
 
What can I do with that Cirmolo? This is my idea: I'll cut one board into 6mm planks, and will ask the carpenter to reduce another of the boards, the thinner is 4mm thick, to just 2mm (or even 1.5, if possible) thickness. This should be suitable for the wales second planking, finally making good use of the spiling technique.
 
So, stay tuned and a big ciao from
FAM

November 18th, 2014
 
Hi all, some slow progress in my shipyard.
Next steps: the counter and hull preparation for planking.
 
As anticipated above, for the lower counter I prepared another cardboard template. I had some problem in getting the correct shape, as the only views I own (my monography is not arrived yet, so I have to rely on scanned copies kindly sent by Jack Aubrey!) are seen directly from the stern, so they are correct in athwartship dimension but compressed in the vertical direction.
I had to play a bit with geometry, trigonometry and graphic tools to get the correct shape, but in the end I managed to obtain it.
The next pictures show the Counter template dry-tested in position: the hole for the rudder is apparently smaller than required, but the plans provide the correct shape and size for this detail and a section view of the transom-counter-rudder head, for its correct position. So I glued another paper template of the hole to the Counter template and cut the hole to check its position with respect to the false keel and transom timbers.
I’m not fully confident about its size, yet: I'll recheck it when the sternpost piece will be available. Nevertheless, this layout permits me to adjust the position of the counter more accurately.
 

 
I also managed to bevel the template to improve the joint with the transom, so I feel its position is pretty close to be definitive. Another internal view of the rudder hole...
 

 
... just showing how the internal transom timbers are exactly separated by the size of the rudder hole.
 
The third picture also shows the last side reinforcements to the transom timbers: this 3rd layer of plywood adds enough material to permit shaping the transom to its final size.
This technique is my ugly attempt to copy the same used by Chuck, and I give to him full credit for having shown us what has become, to me, one of his most efficient trademarks in hull structure design (his most recent example, the HM cutter Cheerful, is a fantastic example!).
 
In the meantime, I continued adding plywood blocks in between the bulkheads, until obtaining the needed stiffness for the structure.
 


 
The lateral stiffness has increased a lot after I’ve completed this addition, but torsionally is still not enough so I will continue using the base building board as long as possible.
The latter picture also shows the bow filler pieces, another addition of these days. Another cardboard template was used to draw the shape of the hull at deck level, thus defining the amount of material to be removed.
 

 
After all these dry tests, I felt sufficiently confident about the lower counter, so decided to create and glue the real piece. It is made from 0.8mm plywood, and obviously it is only the base for the following counter planking.
My last three days were spent in sanding, and shaping, and filing, and ... cough cough ... making lot of sawdust.
Regardless of the vacuum cleaner continuously working, virtually every surface of my workshop has now a pretty layer of dust!!! I’m looking forward to completing this phase and doing some cleaning to the room!
Another two pictures just taken this early morning, showing the stern and bow filler blocks shaped, the lower counter and the filler pieces in the transition area in between bulkheads XII and XIII (to help planking).
 

 
Some more sanding and I’m almost ready to start planking the hull
 
Regards
FAM

November 06th, 2014
Let’s go on...
I spent some days in collecting all the parts to build the base-board. The copyright of its layout is 100% of JA: it works, so why not copying??
Another friend of mine, in the Company I work for, kindly cut the upright posts with a large circular saw to ease my work. Then I quickly assembled all the parts and immediately started gluing the frames. Well... not so immediately, because each bulkhead needed cleaning from paper formers, filing and sanding the borders and finally fine trimming the joints slot with the keel.
Anyway, the following pictures show the start of the gluing phase. I always had used LEGO blocks to ensure the bulkheads are correctly at a square angle to the keel, and this time was not different (thx to my son who lent me the pieces I needed !!   )
 


 
November 09th, 2014
3 days later, the job is completed. This is a minor milestone in the project, for me, so I shot lot of pictures in good daylight (I usually work at night in artificial light). Here are three of these shots: can you see what I wrote about the shape of the hull being so evident thanks to the large number of bulkheads?
 



 
I also tested the flow of the hull lines from bow to stern with a thin and long plank, and the result is really outstanding! No corrections to be done, perfect alignment of the frames and top-timbers: ready to start beveling the bulkheads before laying the planks.
 
But many other works have to be completed before, to fix the inherent weakness of the stern timbers and give a proper shape to the transom and bow.
 
Finally, I show the details of the masts steps and the bow timbers (maybe ‘hawse timber’ is more correct?)
- For the mainmast step I sandwiched two battens of the required thickness (2.5mm) between the keel and another piece of plywood, so that the width of the housing is exactly 10mm (that is the diameter of the mainmast according to Lees, the reference we decided to use preliminarly). This creates a squared housing 10x10mm, 50mm deep, where the dummy dowel for the mainmast fits tightly.
 

 
- For the foremast step I used the same concept, but the side plywood pieces are directly notched into bulkhead n. Va for a stronger joint. In this case the size of the housing is 9x9mm, again 50mm deep.
 

 
- To conclude, I’ve joined the top parts of the two bow fillers, representing something similar to the innermost hawse timbers, with horizontal plywood pieces: they have been glued in position and then suitably shaped. This fixes an error I did in interpretation of the required height for these parts. I still have to check this height with the top timbers of the bulkheads, but this is an easy job.
Here it is also evident that I already cut the toptimbers of the foremost bulkhead (n. VIIIa) with double width, to account for the subsequent beveling.
 

 
That’s all for today
FAM

November 01st, 2014
 
A few days later, this is how she looked.
 


 
I logged about 15 hours to get at this stage: all the bulkheads cut, the false keel cut, the bow fillers and transom timbers cut, all the parts finished, checked and dry fitted.
 
Some detail about my technique: I used 5mm thick poplar plywood, so had to use a dedicated version of the plans that JA kindly provided.
All the parts are hand-cut with a manual scroll-saw, as I’ve little room in my 3x3m workshop for bulky tools and machines (that will remain, anyway, my dream ). The bulkheads are cut for a tight fitting with the false keel, considering that the paper formers still have to be peeled away.
I used a stick glue for the formers, that is quite easy to remove but strong enough to support the stress of the saw blade.
 
The attentive observers could note that something is different from JA’s model:
- the most evident is the number of bulkheads. While JA decided to reduce it to the minimum strictly required for the building, I retained all the original 22 bulkheads that he had draught. The only missing is the #5, corresponding to the main mast slot. Even for the foremast slot, I managed to arrange a solution that uses the bulkhead itself as one of the side walls for the mast slot.
Reason for this? No real need, call it a personal fixation, or whatever you prefer: I like seeing the shape of the hull coming out from the very beginning. Even with my Pinco I used the same approach and doubled the number of bulkheads w.r.t. those required by Euromodel plans.
- Another evident difference is the fact that I didn’t use the two longitudinal beams, as I deemed them not necessary if the stiffeners between the bulkheads are used (that is my program).
- A third thing is that I did not use the joints strengtheners for the 3 keel pieces: again, to me these are unnecessary pieces because the building base holds the keel firmly and straight aligned until all the stiffeners are installed.
Well, same direction, slightly different paths...
 
When I had arrived at this stage, JA warned me that his plans contained two minor but significant errors:
the first dealt with the stations of the bulkheads along the keel, and instead of trying to fix it I resolved the problem by cutting 3 new pieces for the entire false keel.
 
The second error dealt with the height of the deck with respect to the top of the bulwark (is this the name?) toptimbers. As JA better explained in his build-log, the error was due to a misinterpretation of a drawing not in the correct scale. Too late for him, in time for me (thx JA!!). I recalculated the correct height of the deck, considering the thickness of the false-deck and deck planks I intended to use, and then I only had to remove 0.8-1mm from the top profile of each bulkhead. Easily done with the scroll saw.
 
The last difference for today is the way I arranged the transom timbers (hope this is the correct name): I joined them to the last and last-but-one bulkheads, to get a stronger joint. This will be a weak point of the structure until they will be joined by other pieces, which will be my next task.
 

(BTW, can you see how I moved 2.5mm aft the bulwarks without changing the original CAD plans?)
 
The transom timbers are shaped so that they form a curved line when seen from above and from behind, matching the transom shape on the plans (will be seen later).
 
That’s all for today
Ciao a tutti
FAM