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  1. Hi Wayne and Gary: Its a real pleasure to see the amount of literature that the two of you have collected. I do collect books from time to time, especially books from very hard to aquire sources.But my bigest challenge that I seem to enjoy more is aquiring those books on line. It has taken me many a year to get some of those books. They range from the 16th century to present day. From naval architecture to life aboard a ship. Model construction to model design. You get the idea. I read each one when I get them and organize them into their respected folders. The books I have I value
  2. It would seem that we can get off topic real easy here. To me since you want to use a certain size plank say 1/4" and the kit supplies a 3/16" plank then obviously it would make sense that the size of the Garboard strake would be altered for the number of runs for the larger plank. Dave
  3. To check calipers is an easy process. The faces you use to measure by wear naturally. the move you touch metal surfaces. But I have also come across new calipers that were not ground properly. First thing to do before any callibration is to close the cliper faces and then hold them up to the light. You should see no gaps or spaces between the anvils. If there is a space then get new ones, if there isn't a space calibrate. Set to zero. If you find any movement in the sliding caliper part( a rocking motion) then they are not adjusted right Everything has to be snug but not over tight. Some
  4. I just purchased the 24 tooth saw blade on ebay. All for 10.00 us. I used the 66 tooth for over 2 yrs and no problems. I am hoping the new blade will allow me to cut a little faster and not so rough finish. Oh BTW Shipped same day as I ordered now thats service to me. Dave
  5. I agree with Robin. The 3rd book in the series is invaluable when it comes to the rigging of the French ships. Dave F
  6. The one I saw had 2 little probes on the end and a digital meter on the other. The guy stuck it in and it said what it was . I would assume they are expensive and unless you are doing a lor of wood its not worth investing in. Perhaps a trip to a cabinetry shop my result in them testing it for you. Worth an ask as far as im concerned. Dave
  7. I have cherry cut into planks 1" thick by 6 to 8" wide and what ever length I could get out of a fallen tree. The saw mill guy told me to do what Jud said paint the ends to stop some splitting. I asked him how long to dry and he said it depends on how much moisture content I wanted. If I was doing furniture he said a moisture content from 6 to 12 percent. Oh Yes and he also said I should sticker the planks. HUH? so he explained that it was putting sticks between each plank to let air around the planks evenly as possible. I looked on the net and some places recommend almost a year to dry
  8. Hi Andy: I have a King Scroll saw and got the book as well. Excellent reference. If you go on line and check out Intarsia wood working. These people use scroll saws exclusively, and the information on various web sites is outstanding. One blade I wound up purchasing and use is a round shaft cutting blade. They have various "teeth". What I like about this is you don't have to move the blade to do work 90 degrees to each cut. Because it is a shaft or round you just move the work in that direction. It took me a while to get used to using this type of blade but I will not use any other. Check
  9. The other option is to use gold leaf. I have seen it done and makes a better looking finish than painting.(which I know I am not good at). Hope this gives you another oprion. Dave
  10. Gentlemen: As a person who has a degenerative eye condition, I wear prisim glasses. I read and work on my models on average 4" from my face. I have read everything so far and you all describe the conditions I have to live with. It's either that or quit reading and building. I would suggest that all of you see an eye doctor before screwing around with your vision. It is a precious thing that the wrong type of loupe or magnifying glasses could screw up. That said the right eye doctor will work with you and tell you what type or style of loupe or magnifyers are ok to use. Buying out of "
  11. Richard Sounds like you have the gist of files. BTW Cross cut tooth sets are used strictly for fast removal of material. Metal or wood As far as diamond, I have never used them so I don't know. Maybe someone else has the answer to that. Dave
  12. Richard All you need to look at are the teeth. A rasp is very course long tooth. It is used primarily on wood. The finer the set of the teeth then you can start mixing materials. I would also tend to look at what the files are made of. If they are just HSS( or High speed steel) they tend to disintergrate with metal. I tend to go with tungsten carbide for metal. Cost more but I still have my original files when I started machining in 74. A good quality set will work on both but you also need to look after them. Brass nails are soft but over time they will slowly chip the set.
  13. If you are using Autocad there is a program that goes with it called Raster Design. It does what you are asking for. There is no quick conversion programs because all scanned images have faults. These must be corrected before you can convert. pixel dots , lines that are larger, or don't intersect. These are some of the problems. If you go to you tube you can see short vids about what Raster design operates. Not the answer you are looking for but hope it informs you. Dave
  14. Wood workers who make cabinetry have the same problem. When I built my kitchen cabinets I was told and successfully did the following. You seal only the end grain of the board. They make sealers that will seal the wood. Soak in the end grain so that stain will be even. Usimg a rag or brush, only apply enough of the sealer to do just that, seal.Now stain the whole plank. I would suggest trying on scraps of the type of wood you are using until you get an even consistency of the stain. Apply a coat of sealer, not much, and then stain all sides and see the effect. If not happy with this t
  15. It doesn't matter size of saw the result is the same. Your wood is binding or twisting at the end of your cut. Questions to ask. Are you using a push stick to move the wood through at end of cut? Important for fingers but twisting occurs. Are you making sure wood is up against fence at all times? It is natural to concentrate on the blade ( because that's where the cutting is ) Burning is usually a sign of misalignment as wood passes between blade and fence. Also check that fence is absolutely parallel to blade. Any misalignment ( .oo1 to .005 on the smaller saws will cause this).
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