harvey1847

last update....
 
today the KWdG went into it`s glass case in my hobby room....
The shelf was lowered a bit in order to compensate the case hight, an with the admirals help the glass surfaces were cleaned inside / outside before closing the bonet and everthing was fitted into position. This now closes the project...
 
Nils

Thanks for sorting this out for me Dan. I've been a regular viewer of your IJN Amatsukaze build - incredible! I never realized that card models of this sophistication even existed...
 
I've managed to make a little more progress with the Triton build in between the demands of a couple of other projects.
 
The scratch stock did the job and both the keel and false keel have now also have had their ends tapered.
I turned three brass screws to hold the keel in place on the building board (and later onto a display base although that's many years away!). Brass bushes where also turned and pressed home into the keel.


 
Keel and false keel are now joined .....

 
....and the building board, now complete with a print of the jig plan, has been drilled in readiness for the keel once it has been completed.

 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Hi,
The Furniture scratch repair pens arrived .... three different browns euphemistically labeled mahogany, oak and cherry.

The first was as dark as the marker pen I used previously on the aft deadwood, the other two, shown above, were very similar to each other but do not match the woods they are named after, to be honest. The cherry, on the left, was the best of the bunch and it was this that I used on the second attempt at the deadwood and various scarf joints.

It would be wrong of me to criticize these pens without actually trying them for their advertised purpose, but with a working knowledge of furniture restoration and various finishing technique including French polishing there are other processes I'd use to repair scratches first.  The effect of this pen was generally okay although it does have a tendency to bleed,  especially on end grain.
 
Then I came across Dan Vad's advice to Jeff (Zarcon) on his HMS Victory build log about using Pigma Brush pens and archival ink.  More than twice the price of the set of three, but so much better - and worth every penny! I'll be using this for the rest of the build.

I have now completed cutting out all the components for the keel etc.







My next task is to add the rebates and additional tapering to the fore and aft deadwoods, referring to the first plan sheet and the other build logs in this forum - I love a challenge!  Once this has been done, and the parts have been assembled, I hope to be in a position to access the full set of sheets.
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Thanks for the ‘likes’, comments and input.  Always welcome and appreciated.
 
Michael (MEDDO) – the equipment is not exactly mine,  but having access to it is the next best thing. The planner / thicknesser and I go back 40 years – and I believe it was almost 20 years old when I first used it!  I must have fed the equivalent of a small forest through it over that time …..
Christian – I agree that the black and the brown pens that I used on the aft deadwood are too dark.  I have found a set of ‘Furniture Touch up scratch repair’ marker pens that contain lighter browns and plan to experiment with these when they arrive next week.
 
In the mean-time the components for the bow structure are ready to be cut out.

I’ve been working on the false keel and keel parts this week.  All the scarf joints have been marked out and cut.


 
I have also made a temporary filler piece for the space between the fore and aft deadwoods, where the frames will go later,  to help with shaping the bottom edges of the keelson components and to aid with the alinement  of the various sub-assemblies when they are glued together.


I’ll be adding the tapers to the ends later.  They are ready for gluing now and once dry I plan to add the treenails to the joints.  Showing my inexperience here,  but should these be wooden pegs or copper wire? – I’ve seen both methods used …..
 
Cheers for now,
 
Graham.

Beautyful Ed.
 
Can you show us the secret recipy for the dark glue? I mean 3:1, 4:2, 5:1.5 ?? of PVA and black dye...
 
With the Triton I am only using white glue (PVA) and it is looking awfull when I sand the frames. An another one, Do you think that by adding this black dye, you "weak" the sustance, the glue or it´s something unreliable. (?) Maybe are silly questions.
 
 
Regards.
 
 
Daniel.

Hello Marsalv!
 
With all those bulkheads glued to the false keel and the excellent keel and stem looks like a "mix" between POB and POF way of construction!!
 
Excellent clean and neat work! Keep going!
 
Daniel.

Hello friends,
new pictures of the interior of CHEBECE.
Regards
Karl
 
 
T e i l  4

A brife introduction and some thoughts…
 
While trying to put together all the info and starting the new log here I searched for the CD of the MNM yesterday and the date wrote on it was January 2012. Therefore I started this project more or less around those days.
 
MNM is the acronym for Naval Museum of Madrid. They used to be able to sell you plans and prints for one euro plus two euros for the CD but they do not do it anymore. Something that I don´t understand at all. It is totally a shame because we have an enormous Public Record Office with thousands of files and prints already scanned that should be able to be consulted by all and specially the enthusiast modelers around the World and here in Spain. It should be like the National Naval Museum in UK for example. It was once but not anymore.
 
The shipwright was Julian Martin De Retamosa (1747 -1827) one of the latest shipwrights or the Real Armada and known for building the best ships of the Real Navy in this last period. Spain had lost years ago the supremacy of the seas and was no able to build ships of the line at the rate of other navies do like French or specially the Royal Navy which has become the first world power. Never the less from 1790 to 1800 only three 74´s and seven frigates were built.
 
The print I have is dated at Madrid on 1803 and as you can see the name is not on the list above so I assume it is a draft that never went to a good end. That´s what encourage me more, to actually build a ship that is unique and do it totally from scratch. The plans and the model.
 
Since English it´s not my mother tongue I am writing on word, then copy and pasting. A single post takes me a while. I´ll be updating the log from time to time trying to put all the info the best I can but trying to explain the way I draw the draft and no boring you guys with lots of literature.
 
Wish me luck!
 
Daniel.

JIG QUESTION.
 
Good Morning Mark!


Now that we´re all re-starting the logs can I ask you to explain how you built the second Jig.
 
The one made like Ed did.
 
If you could make a sketch on paper it would be fine. I am wondering about theclamps inside that blue aluminum rail. The bridge is a great to meassure distances, deck beams, gun ports...


Thanks.


 

Beautiful lines Christian!!
 
Are you actually meausuring the hull and translating those to your CAD draws? Specially on the stern and fashion pieces.
 
Willing to see all those ribs together when you´ll start with the POF work.
 
 
 
Best wishes and happy summer!
 
 
Daniel.

The pdf´s attached are only the progress till now.
 
I have drawn 16 water lines separate 3 feet parallel to the top of the keel so I have 16 points to check on every frame. One frame takes me about two hours and when I get bored I draw other parts of the sheer plan.
 
The widths and moulded widths are from the 1784 Joseph Romero Fernandez De Landa vademecum. It also includes all the different pieces necessary to build ships of 100, 74, 64 and frigates of 34, minor frigates and boats and more. This vademecum is quite cheap (12€) and “rough”. It has no half breadth plan or sheer plan nor a general body plan for the different types of ships. So… you have to kind of “invent” how the hek all the pieces were fixed together. You have also to decide the scarfs on the pieces.
 
The book was intended to show the pieces to be cut on the forest with extra wood to drag them to the shipyard, especially huge pieces like the stem.
 
I am also using the book “The ship of 68 guns from 1752” (Isidro Rivera 2012 ISBN 13: 978-84-615-3821-8 (Spanish, no English edition). Pretty useful in order to follow a hypothesis of construction, for example the keel. This book shows how a ship is built following the rules of the English shipwrights. Retamosa follows the rules of the French but I can “extrapolate” some concepts. I have contacted with the author to see if he can clarify me lots of doubts about. Hope to meet him in a month or so…  
 
For example the scarfs on the keel were horizontal not vertical like on the HMS Triton or the HMS Victory. It has also 2 shoe keels. Slightly differences that have to be checked to end with a true model from that period.
 
If any of you have some info about the keel or the things I have wrote do not hesitate and post it here. Would be very apreciate it.
 
Enjoy the week!
 
 
Daniel.
pdf_30_10_14_cant fr.pdf
pdf_30_10_14_cant fr HB.pdf

You can always use both, Beech for the plankin and Pear for the frames. It looks like you have a lots of it. You will need it.
 
I´m using Cherry so far for the frames and keel.
 
Good, good luck!
 
 
Daniel.

So, after all this work, I started with the bulkheads of the lower platforms. The fore one has taken me like 4 days, thinking and rethinking how the hek it was made.
 
(I´m going to speak on present cause it´s easier for me)
 
 
I start with a piece of 1mm balsa wood to try to find out the form of the bulkhead. Trial and error...for me it´s the best method.
 

 
After removing the piece several times I end with this... the pic shows the stage without the 1x1 step of the limber.
 

 
After that I glue several strips of "ramin" wood with a mix of glue and dark brown achrylic to comform the bulkhead and simulate the caulking*
 

 

 
I use a file to scrap the excess of glue and sand it with a square block.
 

 
caulking*
 
I have a question, Are all the bulkheads caulked or only the ones close to the water on the hold area? On the powder room and that zones I guess there´s no doubt. Maybe I am wrong and none of the bulkheads were caulked. Please tell me something.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

HELLO Hello!
 
It´s been a while since my last post but promise, promise that I´ve been working on (the Triton). It´s just that there was nothing reliable to post here.
 
new tools: I made a block to sand the wale out of a 25x25mm piece of pine. I also discovered a metal plate to curve the timbers. I bought it years ago by mail (not inet, nor amazon) and do not remember the address of the guy. (maybe cabrapente knows it) It is pretty useful and you avoid to have lots of jigs to get the proper curvature to the timbers, specially on the stem and stern.
 
Here are the pics:
 

 

 

 
I´ll go to next post...
 

Hello All!
 
At last Saint Fryday! a whole weekend to spend modelling...
 
A small update. The keelson. When I remove the Triton from the jig, even all that pine chocks between the frames, was quite weak. Indeed I broke some of them trying to simulate the movement I should do with a sand block.
 
I put the keelson to strength the hull. From now on I have a good central "line" of wood and I can start adding the thick stuff in the inside. The inside is allready faired. I also cut yesterday the mighty hawse pieces. I´ll give them a try today. Finger cross.
 
Here are some pics...
 
 
 

 
I had to bevel a little bit the stern keelson to be able to fit it between the aft frames. The gap there was pretty narow.
 

 

 

 
Best wishes!
 
 
daniel.

Hello all!
 
Here´s where I am on right now. In order to lay all the frames I have so far, I need to do the keel. Here are the pieces marked with pencil.

 
It has reminded me someway the work I did back in 2011 with the pillars and the joist in my house. It´s amazing how things changed working from 1:1 to 1:48.
 

 
 
 
 
Good Weekend!
 
 
Daniel.

Hello all and thanks ! (We are just four or five... )
 
I have stolen a little time just to cut the parts of the stem. My intention is to glue all the four pieces #3 together and then sand and fair them. That´s why I´ve left some extrawood above where they joint with piece #4.
 
Here are the rough cut pieces and the lefties.
 

 
Then in order to sand them I always ensure the perpendicular of the table sand machine.
 

 
Here is the tyniest piece I´ve ever sand with the disc sand.
 

 
And here is the result of sanding. I have to fair them much more. I hope to have some time tomorow and glue the whole thing together. We´ll see.
 

 
Best wishes!
 
 
Daniel.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello Again.


It has happened again. As Randy advised me
I did bevel too much frame #28 so I have had to redo both. More scrap pieces to
the sack. But I am happy because I am at last building something rather than
being cutting and sanding day and day.


The JIG has been very helpfully so far… I
do not Know how I am going to get rid of it cause it won’t come out by itself.


I have glued already frames #28,#27,#25
& #23. And tomorrow I hope to complete the whole thing.  I´ll write some more explaining the process.


Here are some pics…


 

Welcome aboard Marc!
 
I hope you understand me. Are just thougths. If you are going to make a POF model you are going to have to make lots of futtocks and put´em together. If you are going to plank both, the interior and exterior you could make the frames using plywood (laminated) as Mark is suggesting. By gluing some chocks of pine wood at the ends and between of the frames the strength you achieve is enormous.
 
If you are going to go for the POF option, what I recomend you, cut the patterns and take your time to glue them in "order" on the wood sheet you are using. You´ll save lots of wood.
 
 
Best wishes!
 
 
Daniel.

Hi friends.
 
Pictures of the 74 gun-ship by Alexey Konzelko.
 
Karl

Hello friends,
thanks for the kind comments and likes.
Karl
 
 

I just found this build, and I can only echo what everyone else has said. Thank you for sharing your Beautiful work with us. Keep the pictures and post coming.

Hi friends,
thanks for the kind comments and likes.
New pictures of the 74 gun-ship.
Karl
 
 
​T e i l  10
 

Congratulations Rusty!!
 
It has been a pleasure to follow your log since the begining. Beautyful model. What´s going to be next??
 
Best wishes!
 
 
Daniel.

Some more progress pictures.