harvey1847

Hello Friends,

today I show some news of my little naval shipyards.
In the quarter galleries were still glued the window. The tiny windows were made ​​of acrylic glass. I have fixed this with Micro Kristal Klear.
As a consequence I had to install wooden strips on the quarter galleries yet. These are just decoration.
      Soon it continues here again.

Hello Juergen,
 
I guess it could be but the probrem is that the pine wood piece I have been using for all the gun ports simply do not fit on that way. I´ve seen other models and they just put it with that angle. Indeed on the sheer plan you can see the bevel on the frame and is more or less on the half of forest single frame. On my case and with that bevel I saw no necesity of cutting a long ceiling piece to conform the gunport and I decided not to "weak" the frame more than necesary.
 
Hope it helps. How does it work this first gunport on Leopard? Is it the same? Maybe you can "extrapolate" it to the hMS Triton.
 
Keep going!
 
 
Daniel.

We´ll be here around... good luck!
 
Daniel.

Thanks so much for nice comments Christian, Nils and Daniel. And also much thanks for the likes.
It's always a great motivation.
 
I have re-drawn all the frames from original-drawings Daniel. That was the reason of the long break because I must to force myself to do it

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 89 – Middle Deck Hatches/Cabin Deck
 
The first picture shows some of the treenailing on the cabin deck.
 

 
These planks are 7” wide.  At this width the standard fastening spec was one per beam / ledge.  The treenails are about 1 ½” in diameter and are Castelo as mentioned in the last post.
 
The next picture shows a typical hatch being framed. 
 

 
At this scale and on this deck, simple lap joints are used.  The head ledges are on top to secure the coamings.  These will be bolted at the pin locations, in each corner and in the center of the beam.
 
The next picture shows a coaming completed and being glued down and one still being fabricated.
 

 
In the next picture the central planks are being installed between the openings for the hatches, masts and water tanks.
 

 
These planks are needed to support the pillars under the main deck.  As with the deck below, no further planking will be done on this deck.
 
The next picture shows some additional planks being installed on the cabin deck.
 

 
After having completed the drawing for arrangement of cabins, etc. on this deck the final amount of necessary planking can be set so those details can be constructed.  I don’t mind covering some of the structural detail in this area because some of it is based on assumptions and its authenticity cannot be verified.  The members – clamps, transoms - along the line of the main deck in this area will also be hidden by the cabins and related details as will the ends of the planking that are simply butted against the margin planks.  Cabin detail will be discussed later.
 
Ed

Working on the binnacle.  The compasses and lantern aren't done yet.  They will sit in their compartment which is lined in holly.  There will be an acetate window and a brass chimney with a conical top.  The binnacle is cherry.
 
Dave

I'm beginning a build of the battle station posted on the NRG's website.  I plan several modifications to the original, andI have increased the scale to 1/2" = 1".  I started by cutting out the base, as well as some walnut and bloodwood for the bulwark frames
 
I then dframed in the gunport with bloodwood.
 
Next came a mahogany waterway.  The photo shows it shaped, but not yet cut to size or installed.
 
I then planked the outside using rosewood for the wale, black strake and rail and boxwood for the planking.  The inner bulwark was planked in bloodwood.
 
 I'm now working on details.  The photo shows boarding stairs, deadeyes and cannon parts.
 
Dave

@Antony
Thanks for the info.
 
@Daniel
I've scanned the NMM-drawing and work with the digital copy in Autocad. There I can take the measurements of all lines much easier than by hand. Also it's possible to get the information of the radii of the different curves. Be aware that the original drawing has some distortion which you have to calculate out.
The diagonal and horizontal lines in the half breath except the breath extreme line are the result of the construction work in the body plan. There I use splines. All curves in the body plan are arcs with tagential transition.
 
I will try to describe what I did, but it's not so easy to do in English. So please give me bit of time.

Hello Christian!
 
The plan looks goo to me. You might need another diagonal for the aft frames but it´s up to you if you need it or not. Did you draw the original diagonals or you just drawn them taking the points of each futtock on the sheer plan? And another one or two, Do you have the plans scanned and you use them as a pattern on CAD or you have "paper" and you have to be taking meassures? If you are using spilines to make the body plan, how you get to that weird bodyplan with all those parallel lines to the top of the keel? Did you just copy them from the original plan or are actually the center to make the different frames? I would like to know because I have never understood how the shipwrights could get to that. I mean how the hek you find the centers for these sweep lines!
 
Beatiful draft! I´ll copy your info box.
 
 
Daniel.

Wednesday, October 15th, 2014  
Today I started to apply the first planks. .  
 
These are strips of lime wood, very beautiful, size 6 x 2 mm, purchased at a model hobby shop in Milan hinterland. 
The first strip, in the photos the lower one, is in one piece and has been installed according to the line references of the deck, references which were previously marked on the bulkheads with a small incision on the outside and passed through with a pencil. With this one piece plank I secured a very accurate alignment and natural sheer. 
Then I started to apply shorter planks concentrated in the area from amidships to the stern to rise, in order to properly cover the deck walls. 
Next activity to reach the same situation from amidships to the bow. I hope tomorrow. . friendliness, Jack.Aubrey
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Congratulations Jürgen!
 
Did you re-draw all the frames or just the main frames?
 
Daniel.

As written in my last post I bought last month the design drawing for Alert/Rattlesnake at the NMM.
With my new knowledge about reconstruction of a line drawing I started to redesign the ship on basis of the NMM drawing.
 
For this I did not use any information of Goodwin, because it's not a primary source. I don't have access to the archieves so I will only use the NMM drawing and later the vademecum for the scantlings. I am not sure if I like to show my model as designed and shown on the drawing or as shown on the Marshal painting.
Both presentations have the same origin: they should show the design for a ship to the people who allocate the funds.
 
The drawing isn't finished but I like to hear your meaning about the the reconstructed lines:

 

 
It#s my first reconstructed ship, so I am not sure if everything is right.

Happy Birthday Christian!! Fifty! Fifty!
 
Have an excellent day!
 
Daniel.

The latest pic of my latest progress. I have been working on the transoms, the quarter lights, the stern timbers, the counter top rail, and the quarter deck transom. All are glued in except the quarter deck transom because I am not sure at what height to place it at.
If anyone has followed my build log from the begining you will note that I started this build using Russian Olive wood. The keel and other parts did not take well to this because of a lack of strength in the wood. I switched to crab apple after that and obtained satisfactory results. Now that I am on to the inner hull parts I am switching back to the Russian Olive. These parts will all be planked over both inside and out so perfect parts and strength will not be an issue.
After a little sanding and regluing of some of the frames to the keel I will be able to start planking the upper exterior of the hull. Will probably start with the wales.....
 
Richard

Thanks, Kees.  We are usually our own worst critics.
 
Now that the sheer strake is installed, it is time to attack the fixed blocks.  There are two fixed blocks that pierce the hull.  One of them has two sheaves and the other only one.  They are pretty straight-forward in construction.  First the block's shell is cut and dry-fit.  Next the slots for the sheaves are marked out, drilled and then finished with needle files.  The hole for the pin is drilled and the block is put back into the hull.  It is much easier to drill the slots for the sheaves prior to shaping the sides.  The inner and outer faces are sanded to conform to the shape of the tumblehome.  I made the sheaves from ebony that I drilled out and shaped with chisels and sandpaper.  Finally, they were sawn to thickness and installed.  In the pictures there is too much contrast between the woods to actually see the sheave withing the slot.  The blocks were removed, the sheaves and pin inserted and glued with CA, and the assembly was glued in place in the hull.
 
    
 
The first photo shows the blocks glued and sanded in place.  In the second photo the wood has been wiped down with a damp cloth to highlight the treenails.  The slots on the inboard face need a little more cleaning up.
 

 

 

 
The final appearance.  I still have to insert some of the gun port liners but overall I think it looks pretty good.
 

 

 
 

The sheer strake was installed next.  This is 3" thick and is let down to the top of the gun port where the width of the upper planking would have been less than 5".   There is a hook scarf amidships.  I have cut down some of the timbers to just above the sheer strake.  By leaving them a little long at this point I am preventing damage to the top edge of the sheer strake. 
 

 
I ran into two problems:  one correctable and the other not.  Although it is hard to tell from the pictures, my Dremel has developed a wobble in the shaft and consequently the holes are slightly oversized.  I solved this by dipping the treenails in dilute glue before installing.  Usually I install them with pressure fit and rely on the finish to seal them into place.  It appears a new Dremel in on my horizon.  You can see my general approach for treenailing in the following picture.  I draw a light pencil line to indicate the center of the frame.  Next, I pencil in the locations of the treenails.  I use a carbide stylus to prick the wood so the drill bit does not wander.  And finally I drill the hole.  I start at the bottom and work up to the top.  The sawdust drops down so by starting at the bottom I do not have to clean off the hull after each hole has been drilled.  I sanded the aft area so show how the treenails disappear until finish (or water) is applied.
 

 
Now for the relatively uncorrectable problem.   As I mentioned before, I had to correct the sill heights to get a smooth run.  This was accomplished by lowering the central gunports and raising the aft gun port and bridal port.  I have already stripped the planking twice and began to be concerned about the integrity of the frame glue joints with the repeated application of isopropanol.   Therefore, I decided not to strip the planking again even though the appearance is not perfect.  You can see my shim on the lower port opening and the height that had to be removed at the top.   I am not pleased with it but weirdly feel better for showing the problem to whomever reads this log.  I guess that means I need a life!  The wood was wet down to show off the treenails.
 

Thanks for following this build, Christian.
 
Not much got done this weekend, between Fall cleanup and getting my Hannah cleaned up to take to the NRG meeting next week, there was not much time for building.  When I bought the styrofoam for the base, I found  a hobby-quality drafting table.  It elevates and tilts, important to me since I prefer to work standing up (I guess it's the surgeon in me). And at 30% off, what girl could say "no"?  A bungee cord across the base keeps everything in place, even at an angle.  And the casters allow me to follow the sun.
 

 

 

 
The second two rows of planking are almost completed.  When I return, I will start the planking below the wales.
 

 

 

Hello Guys
 
Here's a little update of my build. I install the aft Cant-Frames at the moment. You can see my practice of the following photos. I hate it to do the same for several hours. That's why I decided to produce a Frame, install it and than produce the next Frame and so on. At this way I had a bit of change.
 

 
To saw out the parts I use a band-saw with a special saw band for slightly curves.

 



 
I hope that the next update is showing the finish of the frame build.

Hi all,
 
here we have port and starboard, ready for the gunports to be marked and cut.
 
regards
Tom

Hi all,
 
more frame cutting. I am sandwiching two pieces of wood using toothpicks. This way i am cutting the starboard and port sides of the frame in one go.
The two pieces are dowelled together, the pick protrusions cut and then it's the jigsaws turn.
 

Kuddo's for Daniel! Now it's up to you Piet to make great Jol.
 
Remco

Hello everyone.  I hope that all y'all had a great weekend.  There was a nice air show in Daytona Beach, sponsored by Embrey Riddle University.  It was supposed to be a very nice one but I didn't go.  Too crowded, problems parking the car and problems with frequent body functions
 
In any case, I have been busy with a few domestic chores and taking some measurements for the display board and the dust cover.  I begin to like the idea of making that from acrylic plastic sheet.  i could even paint ocean and sky on the "wall side."  A couple of seagulls or perhaps a MLD sea plane 
 
Daniel (harvey1847) from Madrid Spain read my post where I showed my first attempt in making the lines drawings for the dingy and offered to draw them for me with CAD.  I gratefully accepted his offer, even though he was very busy himself, he went right to it and in a few days he was done.  They look magnificent.
This just show you what a great place this is where people help each other.  
 
When I wanted to make prints with my copier that &%#*@ thing ran out of back ink  grrrr, grrrr    Have not been able to go to the store to buy some, just to busy with domestic chores.  We'll do that tomorrow for sure and then make an attempt with the dingy.  Some of you have given me some good advice and we'll see what comes out of it.  I'll have to make  some more plywood and veneer for this simple little boat.   Simple?  Not in a long shot, at least not to me.  
 
Here are the drawings Daniel made for me.  There are a few more in color no less, that show the individual stations.
 
Piet Dingy A4_1_50 BW copy.pdf
 
Piet Ding keel 1_50 BWy.pdf
 
Piet Ding Water lines 1_50 BW.pdf
 
Cheers, 

Monday, October 13th, 2014
 
Today I overcame my reluctance to make dust and in the afternoon I set a good pace to shape the bow and adequately prepare the bulkheads with the "famous" bevel angle.  
Below you can see the bow area, where there was to sand more with power and manual tools than in other areas of the hull:
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But even in the stern there was enough work to do, in particular for shaping appropriately the transom in order to make possible to glue the last piece of the planking. Here a view of the internal side:
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While here below I propose a view of the transom from the outside. As you can see the stern looks more like a stern than before I worked on it. In due time, I will also shape the top side, the horizontal one, of the same.
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However also the entire hull, limited for now only to the part above the waterline, has been sanded properly. In fact, the next step will be the installation of the planking at the top of the hull, in particular on the external and internal sides above the main deck. The lower hull will be planked in a second time, when the top is complete and will be possible to capsize the hull without risks:
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To do this work, today I used a new entry: the belt sander BS/E (or BSL 220/E) from Proxxon. A couple of tests on pieces of wood to waste just to make some experience with the tool and then I started . . it works pretty well although quite noisy and tending to heat up quite a bit after you use it for some time.
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Kind regards, Jack.Aubrey.

Continuation of the previous message . . full view images.
 
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Regards, Jack.Aubrey

start another deck