harvey1847

Hago una nueva campana

A little addendum to the story of my Druid.  Grand Rapids (here in Michigan) has hosted for the past six years an event called ArtPrize.  This is a city wide hosted event focusing on art, both professional and amateur.  There is a prize purse in excess of half a million dollars so this isn't small.  This year saw 1536 entries spread over 174 venues.
 
My wife wasn't impressed with a lot of last years entries and said she was going to enter the Druid, which she did.  So I earlier this year became an official entry of the 3-D category (with 346 of my closest friends).
 

 
I ended up being hosted by a seafood restaurant actually directly across from the art museum:
 

 
Over the course of the last week and a half I have been on site talking about my work to over a 1000 people.
 

 
I made up small business cards to advertise (standard fare for this event) but took it up a notch with a customized card holder:
 

 
I do not want to turn this into a 'what is art and what is not' topic but I was the only ~accurate model based entry (all years).  It was a little hard to keep my ego in check with the consistent outstanding comments people directed at me.  There was lots of "My Grandfather / Father / Son would love this / used to do this."  "I grew up with one of these in the house and have always loved them...."
 
The feedback was worth it if nothing else.  I did meet a special youth that I invited over for some ship modeling discussions.  Peter has faced a lot of challenges but has been working on a model of the Titanic with popsicle sticks and pictures (no plans):
 

 
There is a lot of interest out there in models, particularly ship models.  Do not be afraid to engage and put yourself out there,  I can tell you the rewards are huge.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark
 
 

Hello,
thanks to all for the kind compliments !!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
E.  Quarterdeck
Construction end,
the forward gun ports were only as needed with 12-pdrs.cannons armed.
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l   53

Hello friends.
Iron construction of the handrail mounted.
Karl   
 
 
T e i l    52

Hi chuck!
 
Thanks very much for the pics about your laser cut machine and for the walk around your basement... trully a cave, a big one, should say. Mine is about 3x2m2...
 
 
That made me smile. Even my 6 square meters are as messy as yours. Tidy tidy tidy guess we are always tiding up our small or big shop. Ain´t no need to be embarrassed.
 
Good luck and happy modelling!
 
Daniel.

Thanks...
 
The shop will hopefully be cleaned after I get back from St Louis.   
 
Alistair,  I wont be distributing the DXF files.  That would just make it to easy for folks to duplicate everything and pirate the plans.  The plans will be sold in paper format only,  rolled and mailed in a tube.   As far as the laser cut parts go...I really want this to be a scratch project for folks and I dont see myself getting in the kit business.  As we were talking about earlier...Maybe the bulkheads but thats it think.   But who knows,  we shall see,  I hate to close the door on it all together.
 
I am however using the laser for most pieces of the prototype.  Its quicker and I consider it just another tool like a scroll saw.  Plus,  after what I paid for the laser, I might as well use it whenever I can. Having said that,   these pieces are easy enough to cut with a scroll saw.  Its a really basic design and a simple single masted cutter.  Its the perfect starter project for a first time scratch builder.  I have tried to keep it as accurate as possible and as you will see with the square tuck at the stern,  its the first POB cutter project that will show it correctly modeled.
 
So basically...the plans and a few other laser cut pieces will be made available but not a full kit.  No electronic files either.  Other than the monograph which will be free.  I think folks will enjoy building it.  I hope.
 
The treenails on the stem and keel are all done.  Tomorrow I will glue in the bulkheads and start on the gunport framing and bow fillers.
 
 

Not to get to off topic...
 
 
But just a few...Boy am I lazy today.  I am crapping up my own build log to boot!!!
 
Great Republic by Boucher...1912
 

 

 

 

 

And just to round out the images of where I spend 10 - 12 hours per day...
 
This is the other side of the shop which is in my basement...yes I know it is an absolute bloody mess.  In total its about 25 feet long and 18 feet wide with that little hallway which leads to my kids man cave.
 
This is my block making station where yesterday I finished up milling 2000 2mm blocks.  Theres a lot of sawdust on the floor....and my shop mascot snuck in the picture.   You can see a drill press behind my hi-tech dust control system...the fan. , Byrnes saw and Sherline mill.
 

 
This is one half of my rope making station...You can see one half of that cheapo ME ropewalk on the table as well as all of the scraps from making a few thousand feet of rope over the last few days....I WANT TO BELIEVE.
 
I will be bringing all of that rope making stuff to St Louis to do a demo for the NRg Conference.   I will be showuing how I make 20 - 23 foot lengths of rope on that little Model Shipways rope walk....thats how I make all of it.
 

 

 
And then looking down the length of my basement and down the 30 foot long hallway to the other end of the rope making station.   This is where I make my rope.  Nothing too terribly exciting.   Alond the wall is my library and a bunch of old models...including the 18th century model that I should really find a better place for.  There is another old Dutch model there too that is crying out for some love and restoration.  I have no idea what it is but looks about 60 - 70 years old.  Maybe.  By God I have to tidy up this place...there is crap all over.  I am embarrassed.
 

Windlass 2.0
 
The final version....no photoshop this time 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is time to work on the lower hull.  I pressed the top timbers, stem and counter timbers into a 2" thick slab of styrofoam. I then threaded butcher's twine through the gun port openings and secured the hull to the styrofoam in four places.  This allows me to comfortably work on the lower hull while having the ship securely attached to a flat surface.
 
The lower hull planking is holly.  I am using a different holly for the hull planking than I did for the decking.  That wood was more grey and had some color imperfections which became apparent after the finish was applied.  This is a whiter wood without any visible flaws.  (Thank you Hobby Mill.)  The garboard strake was installed first.  When you look at the plan, you are tempted to say "Oh, a straight line with the keel.  Easy."  Well, because of the twists in the plank fore and aft, that straight line is anything but.  The key is to make templates of everything and then transfer the outline of the template to the wood, leaving a little extra for fine-tuning.  The fore end of the garboard was terminated per the layout in TFFM.  Prior to gluing the planks in place, the keel rabbet was cleaned up.
 

 

 

 

Ben and Mark, thanks for the support.
 
I have reached a milestone...the upper works' planking is completed!  I left the frame ends protruding above the level of the top rail to protect the upper edge of the planking.  Now you can even tell which frames have timberheads associated with them. Because the only things keeping the starboard frames in line are the ribbands and the filler blocks above the top of the frames, this side was not cut down.  Now I have a question.  In TFFM it states that where the sheer strake "...widens down to the ports there is a change in surface level to produce a smooth, continuous chamfer line..."  I interpreted this to mean a smooth chamfer to the top of the port.  Another interpretation would be to make the lower part of the strake the thickness of the hull planking and the top part the thickness of the sheer strake.  Looking at a contemporary model of Atalanta did not show enough detail for me to tell which direction to go.  If someone could give me some direction, I would appreciate it.  I left things so that it would be easy to convert if my interpretation is wrong.
 
On to the lower hull planking.
 

 

 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 87 – Middle Deck Inboard Planking continued
 
In the first picture the last strake of inboard planking on the port side is being installed – leaving the air strake above it.
 

 
Treenailing has begun on both sides.  The next picture shows some nails installed and holes drilled for the next group.
 

 
The treenails measure 1½” (.021”) in diameter and are drawn from long strips of Castelo.  The next picture shows the completed forward area above the middle deck.
 

 
The next picture shows a treenail strip being inserted into one of the aft deck beams – about to be clipped off.
 

 
The aft part of the middle deck is the first to be finished off so the beams of the cabin deck can be installed next.  The cabin deck is just a few feet above the middle deck.
 
 In the next picture the middle deck work in this area below the cabin deck is being given a coat of wax – below the clamps.
 

 
In the next picture the wax has sunk in and dried.
 

 
The aftermost cabin deck beam has been glued in.  The next picture shows another view of this.
 

 
The next step will be to fit the deck beams and their knees for the cabin deck framing.  Treenailing along the rest of the deck continues.
 
Ed
 

Piet,
 
Some help in the mulling. Have a look here: http://www.koga.net.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=26364&start=140 Approximately halfway down the page he starts at his dinghy/sloop whatever you wanna call it (I know it's Polish ... often enough one image says more than a thousand words ..... enjoy!).

Hi All,
 
When starting the planking I wondered about the waste, or maybe better put, the amount of wood needed
to plank the hull in this manner. I started with a 2" x 18" piece of wood and I was able to cut all the spilied
planks for both sides and still had wood left over. I was very pleased with this.
 
Now onto my impression of this style of planking a hull. In the words of my sweet granddaughter
.......OMG........ though time consuming it was soooooo much easier to lay the planks. No twisting and
bending and forcing them into place.
 
Here are pictures of both side rough sanded. Once the entire hull has been planked I will progressively
sand it down to 400 grit and then seal with wipe on poly.
 

 

 
On to the second belts!

Hello everyone,
 
The last few days I have been trying to make a set of work drawings for the dingy.  I am rescaling a set I obtained some time ago and transferring it to a blank sheet of paper.  I'm not being very successful with it due to the small scale.  
If I go with these then I'll use the trial and error method.  Making the frames a little larger and then shaping the form with a sanding block.  I can also remove extra wood from the inside with a small rotary file in my flex drive adaptor.  I'll have to do that after the planking is on to have some rigidity.
 
Another way would be to draw a set in a larger format and then reducing the drawing to my scale.  
 
I'm planning to use boxwood for the keel and all the frames.  The planking will most likely be done with veneer that'll remove from some maple plywood.  I have a few nice blocks of boxwood and can slice off a 1 mm board on my 10 inch table saw.  Well, actually I'll cut a 1.5 mm slice off so I can sand it down nice a smooth.  
 
To show that the dingy was not flat bottomed but had some rather nice lines I'll attach a few pics of the original manufacturer's drawings.  I'll also show my first attempt at drawing a 1:1 drawing for the dingy.  Most was done by eye and hand from the actual lines.  
 
 
As you can see this is a photograph of the drawing because of the distortion.  It's the measurements though that count.  Nice looking body plan.
 

 

This is my hand-drawn version 1.0.  Not too bad but unusable as is.  Just for the halibut I'll draw one up to a larger size and then reduce it on my printer.  I have nowhere else to go except for some standard home maintenance and cooking a few meals for my dear bride Gwen.
 
Cheers,

Hello All!
 
Thanks Juergen, Beatiful progress you´re making on the Leopard. I progress slower than you. Are you going to drop the HMS Triton or is it temporary "parked"? It´s the only one "as designed", please don´t do it! (leave it)
 
After the big discover about the number of gunports I have decided to leave it there, glue the ceilings and plank the whole area. I was thinking about planking it anyways.
 
I have been all this morning with gunport no.#1 and I´m pretty sattisfied with the result. It is beveled on both frames aft and fore... quite tricky.
 
Here are the pics! I know there is a lot of them for a single detail but it took me a while and as I said it´s tricky and the plans don´t show it in its complexity. The next days I will sand the wale and paint it. I´ll make some trials with srap wood first, we´ll see...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Daniel.

Hello Hello!
 
The gunports are almost completed. Two more to go one on the aft and another on the fore... I managed myself to build a shelf for the ship. My workshop is quite small and it´s a way of having the ship always tidy and my table clean to work with other things plus more room for the machines.
 
I was looking the plans and counting the gunports... and I was counting fourteen on the ship and thirdteen on the plans...Of course I thought to myself the plans were wrong not My Triton. 13 vs 14teen, 13, 14, 14, 13... And the plans ARE RIGHT!! I have had tue gunport cut since post #170 18th June. No small mistakes here in this hobby.
 
Remember! Thirdteen gun ports!!
 
Here´s a bunh of pics...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
You can see obiously there´s is something odd with the gunport but I just thought... I do not know what I thought, I was having fun cutting the scarfs and the ceilings. Back to cut with the scroll saw.
 
 
Best wishes!
 
 
 
Daniel.
 
 

Micheal,
 
If its a long lost relative, you might be a long lost heir to a ton of money.  The company was successful and had a huge business for more than a century.  They made everything from toilet fixtures to tanks to cast iron fencing starting in 1828,  They eventually moved to Trenton, NJ.  You can find their catalog on line.
 
I guess a lot of us have a bit of model railroading somewhere in our past.  I remember an article in the 1960's on using Strathmore paper to make all sorts of simulated iron structures, including trusses.  It was sold by ply then - 2 ply, 3 ply, etc. and by surface - high, medium, etc. I haven't seen those designations for years - but I still have my ponce wheel.
 
Ed

End result:
 

 

 

 
Now the fun part - cutting the rabbet. I do not have any power tools to do it, so will make some hand jig and will slooooowly cut it with chisel and knife. Now when the keel is assembled, it would be a pity to ruin it by making a bad rabbet.

Removed the nasty laser char. In hindsight, it is good that I selected a timbering set without laser cut frames, the char removal process is messy and definitely not pleasant. In his youtube videos, Dave recommends to remove the char using the shaving blade. It works only to small extent, because char is pretty deep in the wood.
 
Here are the laser cut pieces on a different phased of cleaning:

 
Another issue is a bad precision of a laser at some lines, they are cut with "steps", so lots of wood should be filed away to make that surface smooth:

 
Some joints are too wide - they fit tightly with char, but if you start to remove the char (and the "steps") - then the joint is too weak: 

 
So I cut away that joint and scratched a new one
 
Another improvement was a deadwood - supplied laser cut deadwood was made of a single piece, which is too far from desired level of correctness. So I made a better one. 
But it was a hell of a job to nicely fit all the curved timbers together! It is easy to make a tight fit when parts are straight, but when they are curved - it really needs a skill. Here is how ugly it looks when just cut:
 

 
Next time will try to cut smoother... It took around 4 hours of sanding and filing and sending and filing to make them fit. 
Resulting fitting is not great, but next time will do better:
 

I do not know which dingy look more risky if the US one or the one your father used...
 
One thing is sure the rubber US boat can fit much more sailors than the wooden make boat and they could have more than one. Did the Ductch subs have rubber boats as well?  Is there any reason to have such a wooden boat aboard? Cold water, ice, rocks...?!
 
Happy journey!
 
Daniel.

I finally finished arranging the laboratory, now I went back to making sawdust
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Carl, I'll have to keep that in mind for when I need to make a model of a rubber raft, however - - - there is one difference and a big one with the O19 dingy or jol - - - it's a little rowboat!   It's 4 meters long and 1.4 meters wide. "A noten dop," or "nut shell." 
Here are few pics of what the KM (Royal Navy) Submarine Service used.  These are the same type that was on the O19.  Even the crew of the Cod were surprised to see a little rowboat.
 

Dingy (jol in Dutch) on the O21
 

Dingy (jol in Dutch) on the O21
 

Dingy (jol in Dutch) on the O21
 

Dingy (jol in Dutch) on the O27
 

The O19 dingy (jol) being lowered during the rescue by USS Cod, July, 1945, when O19 ran on Ladd reef in the Spratly Islands.
 

O19 dingy (jol) in the water helping transferring O19 crew during rescue by USS Cod, Joly, 1945.  The rubber boats are from the USS Cod.
 
Cheers,

cover term forecastle

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 86 – Middle Deck Inboard Planking
 
Heavy members – standing strakes – 10” thick by 12” deep are fitted over the waterways and bolted through every frame timber to further reinforce the connection of the deck structure to the frames.  These members are joined along their length by hook scarphs as shown in the first photo.
 

 
These members were also bolted down into the waterways but I omitted these bolts because they will be covered by the next higher planks. 
 
In the next picture some of those planks are being installed and holes are being drilled for the standing strake bolts.
 

 
Note that the top strake being installed is notched for a drop plank to account for the widening planking band where the hull flares out at the bow.  The next picture shows a higher strake being glued in – wedged down to close the joint.
 

 
Standing strake bolts have been installed in this picture.  In the next picture, the next section of that plank is being glued – wedged and clamped in this case.
 

 
I did not bother to jog the planking joints in this work, because hanging knees will hide this detail.  Long planking strips were used and their joints placed under a knee location.
 
The next picture shows the completed planking – except for treenails – at the starboard bow.
 

 
The gap above the top plank is an “air strake” – left open to ventilate the space between frames above the keel.
 
The next picture shows the larger of the two fresh water tanks ready to be rigged into the opening in the decks.
 

 
In the next picture the tank is placed temporarily in position.  The top of this tank will be just below the main deck planking.  A smaller tank located just forward of this one has yet to be fabricated.
 

 
I did not go overboard in making these tanks.  They will be difficult to see at best.  I used the wood blocks shown earlier, some file folder and a ponce wheel for the rivets.  After assembly the paper was impregnated with dilute shellac and finished with flat black enamel.
 
The detail of the actual tanks, like many other things, is a bit of a mystery.  Webb’s Challenge had rectangular iron tanks so I followed that design.  I based the design for these on pictures from the JL Mott catalog from 1886.  Mott was the foremost New York ironmonger from 1828, making a large range of iron goods well into the 20th Century – a likely source for these tanks.  The catalog featured cast and wrought iron sectional tanks.  It is likely that these large tanks would have been of the wrought iron type – probably lead lined.  They were built up to the required size in formed modules.  The top and bottom manways are speculative.  No nozzles yet.
 
 
 
Ed