harvey1847

For the moment, I have been working on the forward section, completing the structure over the starboard hatch/companionway (I have no idea of its correct name). I shaped a block of MDF then covered it with veneers, and added some hinge pins and a handle to complete the look.
The dimensions for the catheads are only best guess, the plans are a little vague. Does anyone have information regarding the diameter and width of the sheaves in catheads, also the length of the slots to accommodate them? The out board end of the catheads are 300mm (12") square.
 

 
Grant.

Hi, and thank you Pat!
 
a small update from the yard. I'm working on hinges and handles. Hinges are from black paper, rubbed with pensil to recieve metal look. Handles turned from brass nail. Now the photos:
 

 

 

 
Alex

My thanks to the many who visited and clicked the "like" button", and you know who are are     it's much appreciated.
 
To Freek, Gino and Ian and others who may have silently questioned the same thing, thanks for your comments on the dingy or jol in Dutch.  Lat year I guess, Gino and I had a private discussion about this little dingy or jol about the same issue.  Was it stored upside down or right-side up.  The question is of course either we have an air bubble trapped inside the little boat or it's always filled with water when right-side up.  Either way, the solution would obviously be holes do let the air escape or to let the water drain out.  This all sounds very logical and without having much or anything to go by it'll become a guessing game.
Before I had concrete proof that I was fortunate to obtain in the meantime, I opted for storing the dingy inside side up with a few bung holes in the hull somewhere, but most likely the stern bulkhead.  They could have used either rubber or wooden "bung hole" plugs to close the holes.  
I also thought about wear and tear on the holes, how would they hold up in use.  Where would these alleged holes be, in the bottom hull planking?  Would they be thick enough?  Would there be some sort of reinforcing?  
 
However, when Remco send me a copy of the general layout of the O19 and a few other drawings from the Dutch Naval Archive, the dingy shows stored in the inside out position.  See copy 1 below.  I enlarged that particular section for y'all to see that it was placed in the inside out position with the bow forward.  See copy 2 below.  Right now I'm not going to argue with the drawings and accept them as fact.
I also have a few pics of the O19 when on Ladd Reef where they were just extracting the dingy from it's little "house" and lowering it into the water.  As y'uns can see the dingy is already in the inside out position hanging from the loading boom  See pic 3.  Ah, but we could say, well they could have turned it over before the pic was taken.  Yes, they could have but is that what happened?  Without anything to go by the best we can do is give it a "swag"        and no one would be the wiser, at no fault of ourselves.
 
I just was extremely fortunate to have received the needed info from my dear friends Remco, Gino, Boris and Fred Huijgen, not only about the dingy but other details as well.  
 
Lo and behold, I also received a few pics of the O21 where they were in the process of taking the dingy out of it's little hangar.  See pics 4 and 5.  Here we can see clearly that the dingy is in the inside out position on it's cradle.
 
I trust that I have now satisfied the questions and opinions, and accept the shown facts that the dingy was indeed stored inside up.  How the water drained out when surfacing I'm going to leave up to our imagination.  At this scale it's not important but I do have my thoughts about that   .
 

 

 

     
Cheers,
 

Well, stayed up longer than I should have, but I got all the frames raised with wood spacers in between the frames and the keelson attached. 





 
Tomorrow afternoon I should be able to start the fairing process of the frames.  I am glad to finally see this model come together. 

I spent most of the day Saturday putting together my build board.  Today, I dry fitted all of the frames to the keel and keelson and started gluing them in place.  I must say, the build board makes is so much easier to keep them straight and level as the glue dries.  So far I got frames A, B, C, 0, and 1 attached.  I think I may be able to get 2 and 3 on before I call it a day (got that lovely thing called work in the morning).  I am hoping to be able to start the fairing process by Tues or Wednesday of this week.  So without further adeui (spelling), here are the pics:

March 2014
 
My main motivation for starting this project was to learn the craft of scratch-building - and the online format with so many build logs and supportive modellers makes this an ideal educational environment. I also wanted to develop my skills on some of the power tools I now own, some of them thanks to my friend Clarence who was an avid woodworker but downscaled his workshop when he and his wife decided to sell their home and move into a senior's condo. His scroll saw has basically been collecting dust in my home except for the one scary time I used it to cut the rail cap on my first build, the Swift. I had no clue how to properly work it, so this project was going to be my scroll saw course.
 
As I looked over the plans for the Triton it started to dawn on me what a challenge1/96 might be. The size of the parts for the frames would make things 'interesting' in the Chinese curse way. The futtocks would have to be cut from 3/32 stock. This was my first scratch build so I still wanted to try assembling frames, but making 9 of them at this scale was beginning to worry me. So, I came up with a compromise that I could live with...but I'm not sure what you folks might think. I plan on building the outermost frame pairs (4 and D) accordingly, but the inner frames I'm going to cut as single pieces. This way I get some experience building up frames, the model will look more authentic (outwardly at least) and I won't go nuts.
 
After some research and a look through my supply of wood, I decided to go with birch for the inner, one-piece frame pairs. To get my 1" stock down to 3/16" it needed to be resawn and then planed...and I didn't have the equipment to get this done. However, we have a wood shop in the school where I teach and the woods teacher was happy to help me out. So, after classes on a Friday afternoon he coached and helped me make the stock I needed. (Thanks, Michael!). Later that evening I printed out the frame plans and glued them to the birch with spray adhesive.
 

 
The next day I used the band saw to roughly cut apart the frames. I grabbed #4 and took it to the scroll saw for the moment of truth. I set up a fine-toothed blade, dialed in a fast speed and nervously pushed the wood into the teeth. Well, I suppose it was an ok job...but it took a bit more reading, a great YouTube video and a few more frames before I could really say I had the hang of cutting a controlled line!
 
 
My goal was to use the scroll saw to get to about a millimetre of the line on the plan and then take the frame to my little belt sander to get the wood to the line. But, the frames at this scale were just so thin that I became very nervous about snapping them while getting them to size. So, I decided to cut and sand to the inside line before even cutting the outside to give at least some support to the wood as I worked on it. I chose to do the inside first because it was harder to work with at the sander.
 
 
The belt sander was terrifying to use...it could remove material so fast that it took a very light touch and a lot of concentration not to grind a frame down too far. There were many heart-stopping moments, and one mistake that will need a bit of a fix. To smooth out the lines left by the sander I made a couple of sanding blocks that fit the inner and outer curves of the frames using a product called Sand-to-Shape. I had picked these up at the sale table at our Lee Valley.
 
 
Eventually I had the hang of things and I was able to complete a frame in about 30 minutes.
 
I soon realized that my one-piece frame pairs had a weakness. The upper futtocks ran with the grain of the wood, but the grain went across the first and floor futtocks. So, in addition to being very thin I had to be careful not to stress the lower parts of the frames too much. Sure enough, while cutting frame 3 on the scroll saw the blade caught the wood and it snapped. The worst part was that it happened while cutting the outside line...AFTER I had already spent the time and energy to cut and sand the inside of the frame. Ah well.
 

Greetings to all,
Many thanks to all for your kind words. Please excuse me for not posting lately. I just feel as if I don’t have enough to post, then I should continue to work on my model until I do have enough. Now that being said, here it goes.
I last left off with just the lower deck planked, lower deck hanging knees, and ladder going into the lower hold complete. Since I’ve only been working small items at a time, I’ve managed to install the hold pillars, add the gun deck beams (which have been planked to include the waterway and spirketting). Added the gun deck hanging knees, coamings for the gun deck hatch and ladder way, and made the main topsail sheet bitts.
I plan to make the gun deck stanchions, quarterdeck clamps and beam, and start planking around the gun ports over the weekend. The following photos will show you what she is starting to look like.

Stern rebuild progress...
 
Taking apart the keel wasn't as big a deal as I thought it would be and went fine.  Nothing came apart that shouldn't have.  Have the two end sections ready to go as well as the stern post which I was able to reuse with a small patch on the bottom that's barely noticeable.  Still contemplating redoing it because of the patch, but I think it looks good.  Next up is the deadwood and two aft sections of false keel... again, lol.
 

In this set of photos I checked the clearance for the well room and stove and added a little more to the platform.

The deck clamps were installed next.

I made the “brick base” from Padauk and the stove from basswood.

Today I was able to install the starboard dingy hatch doors and gave it one coat of paint on the inside of the doors.  I still need to give it one more coat and then touch-up the outside and some needed trimming and futs'n with it, as usual.  I always find stuff to tweak here and there. 
 

This shows the dingy hatch doors installed and closed seen from the port side.  It still needs touching-up paint and some dye for the slats and whatever else I see that needs to be prettied up. 
 

This is looking forward and uh oh, what de we see?  Ah, I need to to redo the wooden slats on the starboard doors   I didn't see it on the model, but does it show up on the pictures though.  They need to be toughed up anyway.
 

This shows the hatch doors open with the first coat of interior paint in dark grey.  The dingy loading / unloading crane beam acts as the center hatch door support.  It'll hinge on a pivotal brace just aft of the conning tower.
 

This is looking forward with a plastic boat acting as a temporary dingy 
 
Cheers, 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 50 – Port side ceiling continued
 
In the first picture some of the 8” thick bilge ceiling members between the forward and midship view ports have been installed and one of the lower members is being glued into place.
 

 
The next picture shows this area a bit later, unobscured by clamping.
 

 
Strapping installation has been proceeding in parallel and keeping ahead of the ceiling members and deck clamps.  The next picture shows the extent of the midship view port – left free of strapping.  The members marked “X” will be removed later up to the middle deck clamp.
 

 
In addition to exposing the inside of the lower hull, the view ports will also show the cross sections of the ceiling and other inboard planking and structural members.  A part of the ceiling cross section can be seen below.
 

 
Below is another view of the port side inboard area aft of midship.
 

 
Bolting of the bilge ceiling and deck clamps is keeping pace with the other work.  The next picture shows the area between the view ports drilled and partially bolted.
 

 
The bilge ceiling ends are easier to fit after the lower deck clamp is in place.  The next picture shows the aftermost section of the lower deck clamp being installed.
 

 
The strapping is nearing completion in this picture.  The next picture shows most of the strapping work completed.  A few lower pieces near midship have not yet been installed.
 

 
The outline of the aft view port can be seen in this picture.
 
 
Ed

Hi druxey, I'm hoping that by measuring at the former where there is no movement and by paying
close attention to the fit I should be able to keep a creeping error out of it. Fingers are crossed here.
 
Hi Daniel, Oops I got talking about the bulkheads and filler blocks I forgot all about adding the stem
and keel. Chuck uses a cleaver way to create the rabbet. He has you glue a 3/32" x 1/16" stripe on
the edge of the bulkhead former. It extends down the stem and continues along the bottom edge of
the bulkhead former. Once the keel and stem are added, this strip will form the rabbet. At the stern
I had to trim the former to form the bearding line. Once this was completed the stem is test fitted
against the rabbet strip and adjusted until a good snug fit is obtained. The stem is them glued to the
rabbet strip. After that the keel and false keel were glued in place too. I did not need to pin or bolt any
of this assembly in place as it was a snug fit and glued good and tight.

this is the last photo of what I do at the moment, will be continued in the process of work if you have questions I'll try to answer
 
это последний фото того что сделал на данный момент продолжение будет в процессе работы если есть вопросы постараюсь ответить
Анатолий
 

hi all, thought for a long time but even so I decided to show his ship. I had planned to do a whole but made a mistake in the Assembly and grinding sawed off his nose and began to do as did Carl will try to put in the nearest time the process of building seems to be all I apologize for the translator
 
Привет всем, долго думали, но решил показать свой корабль. Я планировал сделать все, но ошибся в сборке и шлифования отпилили его нос и начал делать, как это сделал Карл постараюсь выложить в ближайшее время процесса создания, кажется, все прошу прощения за перевод 
, 

Thanks all for the kind comments.
 
 
I did, at 1200 dpi it managed to keep the font readable. A couple of years back this wouldn't be possible on a home printer.
 
So back to the more mundane cabin building. The doors have louvered openings, the rest is pretty straight forward but involved a lot of testfitting. alle the bulkheads are assembled off the model as this was easier to build. 
 

 

 

 
It's getting pretty crowded on the deck and there is more to come, a pantry, the bitt's and pump's
 

 
Remco

Hi guys, rookie is back again...
 
So, I was all excited to raise my first frame, #28.  Got the ends of the transoms prepped and ready to go then came the test fit with some rubber bands and as you can see from the pics, the width is way off.  I have no idea where this error came from or how to fix it yet.  If I push them out, to get the brace in-between, I won't even be able to attach it to the transoms.  What boggles my mind even more, is that it fits fine on the template. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  I hope the blacking out is ok for the copyright stuff as I don't know how else to get my explanation of the problem across.  Thanks in advance guys...
 
View from fore:

 
View from stern:

 
Plan View (assembly)

 

Hi everyone, been a while, but I have also been busy making the aft can't frames and they're ready to start raising.  Not to many pics this time around.  In one of my research books, it was stated that the frames were bolted with 1" copper bolts and also anchor chocks were placed in-between the futtocks.  I did the bolting, but not the anchor chocks on the aft cant frames as I couldn't see exactly how to cut them into the futtocks before I faired them in.  I do intend to place them into the square frames though.  Next up is raising the aft frames them moving on to the fore cant frames and hawse pieces, then fill in the middle.  Thanks to Guy and Daniel very much for the help with the angles, they worked out really well.
 
I'm all set to start raising them.  Have some good scrap pieces to make the support block spacers and some walnut for the gunport lintels & sills, and a set of braces for the top to set the correct width.  Until next time...
 

I've been working my way towards the center and this is how far I've gotten.
 

 
While gluing them up I had a thought about putting some bracing between the bulkheads to
help stiffen them some more for when I have to fair them. I also thought it may help eliminate
any change of the hull twisting.  I took and measured the distance between the bulkheads at
the former and cut a piece of bracing and glued it towards the outer edge making sure not to
displace the bulkheads.
 

 

 
It seems to be working. I'll let you know when I finish with all of them.

The wellroom and shot lockers is made from marble wood (Acacia bakeri). It was in a “grab bag” of pen turning blocks I bought a while back.

The framing for the platform is made from 1/8” square Beech wood. This set of photos shows the installation of it and the limber boards.

This is a few more photos of the thick stuff being installed.

The meeting continues, ladies and gentlemen of the jury.