harvey1847

Thanks everyone for the "Likes".  
 
My next project is beam set 12, which includes the main mast partners.  The beam set itself is straight-forward.  The main mast partners is similar to the fore mast partners...only larger.  The carlings are half- mortised into beams 11 and 12.  I had previously made the decision not to cut the mortises on beam 11 ahead of time because any mistakes would be very obvious.  My intention was to cut them in once I had the mortises cut on beam 12 so they would be exactly parallel.  I could not cut them to my satisfaction because the upper well was in the way of the chisel.  I did not wish to remove the upper well and possibly damage it so I faked the fore tenon.  In the pictures you can see the recess cut into the carlings for the partners as well as the difference in the thickness of the fore and aft tenons.
 

 

 

 
The next pictures show the fore and aft ends of the carlings after they were installed and before final sanding.
 

 

 
The aft partner was addressed next.  This has octagonal holes cut into it for the pumps.  Now comes the tricky part.  These log pumps extend through the previously cut holes in the lower deck main mast partner and insert into the pump intake lateral to the keel.  They also need to be perpendicular to the keel and slightly canted away from each other.  The holes in the lower deck partner needed to be "adjusted" to accommodate this three dimensional arrangement.  That's a euphemism for totally trashing the holes.  After the aft partner was temporarily glued in place, I inserted the logs down to the hold.  I made a veneer of boxwood and planked over the lower deck partners to disguise the error.  In the third photo you can see the widened hole in the lower deck partner before the repair.  The fore partner was made and the last picture shows it in place.
 

 

 

 

Par l'Ingénieur De La Morandière 1823 HISTORIQUE DES GOËLETTES & MONOGRAPHIE METHODE DE CONSTRUCTION DU MODELE
 
this is the original title on the books cover but I'm working with my "working edition" copied from the english libary edition - because I can't spreak french and only guess some vocabulary by my rest of latin from school.
 
Some months ago I borrowed the english edition from the libary and figured out there are more than five schooners awaiting the reader inside.  I decided to buy the book because it is a very economical way to built a hand full of ships by one book - due to the fact that I'm not wealthy. And so I buyed the french edition pre-owned on the antique market with all the five plan sheets inside for all that I cannot speak french at all! So I payed again for the interlibary loan to get english-languaged copy again - copying it to be able to read it at all. I searched out three possible model ships for myself to get more difficult projects "to keep the challange alive" - going foreward step by step. So I followed the Monfeld's way of growng complexity in the chose of the paragon.
I wrote to the Ancre publishers to get some more details about the sweaps for the boats and the oars for the aviso - because I decided to build her in a clam towed by boats.
 
This type of model will give the possibility to me to show her full rigging of all sails and studdingsails set in an spiral order (after MacGregor "The square rigged sailing ships"). The spiral is the trial to catch any wind from any direction. And to use this moment also to give an idea of the size of the schooner to the viewer by using 1/48 figures at the oars in boat and on the deck. (I made mility modelbuilding for many years and so I'm used to alter figures to get them to fit to the situation they are placed in.)  
"La Jacinthe" is an aviso schooner built for the use in the colonies. The small armarment of two 12 pounder carronades shows clearly the were not built wor the battle line. The were built and used as dispatch vessels for collecting information and having an eye on the trade traffic. The schooner belonged to the Anemone-Class and the ships were in duty till the 1860th - some of them were altered and got an encloses bulkwalk and a one part gun lid from the hulls side up to the middle of the port. A problem I'm dealing with in my article about the  "La Munite" in her appearence of 1833 ( http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4810-la-jacinthe-building-a-variation-further-sources/ ). A picture added below.
The shistership "La Topaze" doesn't had a topgallant sail and yard. She may have used the two triangeled sails instead.
 
The dimensions are given in the original enlisting from the drawing below. A very good model was to see on the woldchampionship in Rijeka 2012 winning a C1 silver medal by the skilled builder Slavian Narlev from Bulgaria.
 
So I'm going to tell something about her and my thoughts about my first scratch project - I'm going to catch as much information before my start as possible.
 
Here are the plans sheets - all are scaled to 1/48! The very best point for the very beginning greenhorn like me is the planking is shown plank for plank in the sections drawing. Where to glue to the formers and how thick the pear has to be. 
Best for me may be to put a first planking of solftwood (lime/linden) on bulkheads and than to sand till the blood is coming out under the nails... to be able to add the second pearplanking on a smooth surface.
 
So I start now to collect some information, ideas and perhaps warnuings from all of you - long time before starting the building. So I'll have a look towards my copies and asks some of the typical greenhorn questions.

Thanks everyone for visiting and your like votes, it's much appreciated.
 
Could not get far today.  I forgot that I had our monthly meeting of the colored pencil society chapter here in Palm Coast.
 
I managed to fabricate the two hinge bracket pairs for the AA gun bun lids and soldered them to the lids.  
 
I first had to make the hinge mounts from brass sheet.  These are the rings you'll see on the photos.  I still have to make brackets that hold the center hinge part, a small copper tube, that'll be soldered to the ring  This will eventually be cemented to the outside of the styrene bun that sticks above the deck. 
 
The lid hinge brackets will have hinge pin holes drilled in them for the hinge pins to complete the hinge assembly.
 
It's kinda difficult to describe the manufacturing method so I have made a few pictures that hopefully will show what I mean.
 
I also had rotate the aft crew hatch tube by close to 90 degrees so the lid opens against the snorkel exhaust pipe instead of the port side railing.  I should have consulted the drawings first 
 
Well, that is all for today.  But it's progress and that's a good thing
 

This shows the parts I made for today's project.  The ring that'll go around the styrene tube and that'll be the foundation for the stationary hinge part.  Then the two hinge brackets to be soldered to the top of the lid.  The lid I made a week or so ago.
 

I figured to temporarily cement the brackets to the lid with a dab of CA so I can tack-solder the brackets because I had no way to hold them to the lid.  Big mistake because solder would not hold at that spot.  Fortunately it was only a tiny spot and is not noticeable.
For the second one I first spot-tinned both parts and then hand held each bracket to tack it to the lid.  Now I could hold both brackets to the lid with clothes pins and a steel clamp for a heat sink.
 

This is the completed lid assembly.  I made the brackets extra long so I can play with the final size.
 

This the same lid assy from a different angle.
 

This is the completed second lid assy.
 

This shows the forward gun placement. Here I have temporarily put the base ring over the styrene tube and placed the lid on top to show how it'll look like.  The lower part of the hinge bracket has to be made yet.
 

This shows the aft gun placement with the lid and base hinge ring temporarily put in place.  You can also see the change I made with the crew hatch tube.  
 
Cheers, 
 
 

So here is my keel so far.
Not glued up yet. Minimal sanding still needs to be done but won't do that till it's glued and pinned.
Cherry will be my primary wood for the framing. I can mill my own wood so my options for contrasting wood are open. All joints were cut with a chisel. At first I attempted using templates glued to the wood but I just ended up with hogged keel. So I cut my keel straight and cut the scarfs as close to the plans as I could. I must have messed up at least 6 keel pieces before I got my first somewhat acceptable scarf joint. I have also been messing with numerous other pieces of the keel but won't know if they will work.
 
I bought a copy of TFFM off amazon for $28 and that has helped a ton with this build so far. I'm assembling the build board and hope to study the rest of the plans once they become available.
I have a few other builds going so when I feel like making saw dust I will turn to the Triton.
I'm really excited to be building this ship and hope to learn a ton from you guys !
 

Hello all, Thank for the Birthday wishes and the likes. That was very nice. Had a good
day and a nice dinner. No work either! So far doesn’t seem any worse than any other.
 
Hey Joe when you get there let me know how it is. I may have to stop counting.
 
Hi Michael, Yes with your projects I would see it not being an eye opener.
 
Hi Grant and thanks for the info.
 
Well I have cut the pedestals for the swivel guns and then notched the channels to
fit around the pedestals. Glued them in place and took the pictures………..
 

 

 
Crap the port channel (1st pic) is *$#@ backwards! The notches for the chain plates are
reversed! Oh well I guess I needed some more practice making them. Just another head
slapping duh moment.
 
Next up while I wait for my brass for the channels to arrive I will be playing around
making the optional storage cover for the mortar. It has to be removable so I can
show it in either state. Should be fun.
 

Comments on my courage are highly exagerated for sure. I thank you all for the comments though - much appreciated.
 
Daniel, you are right. The keel/keelson is indeed massive. The keel is sided 16" and is 31" deep. That includes the 4" sole, the bottom tier of 12" and the top tier of 15". The frame floors are 17" deep. Aft of the last full frame a 17" filler rests on he keel below the keelson. The keelson is in two tiers, each 24" deep. So the height to the top of the keelson is 8' (about 2 1/2 meters).
 
As clipper keel/keelson structures go, this was fairly lightweight. Other clippers of similar size often had substantial "sister" keelson structures bolted on either side.
 
Ed

Hello, Daniel
You right. I hope its help your

Hello Egen!
 
Beautiful work as always. A table saw is one of the machines on my list for this year...
 
I am kind of "slow" so I have make a sketch to see if I have understood the idea of your device. Tell me if I´m right or wrong please. I´ll erase the post if you want. I do not want to confused the people...
 

 
best wishes!
 
 
Daniel.

Hello,
thank you very much for the nice comments.
Currently I am working with the gunports.
Once I made this pictures, I'll show them.

In the meantime, just a picture of all the guns of La Creole.

Hello,
the twentieth carronade is now mounted.
To this end, a few photos for assembly.

 

 

 

 

 

Hello,
 
here are some pictures for mounting the gun port lids:
 

 

 

 
 

Hello,
thank you for your interest in my work.
I use brass-black LINK to blacken the brass parts.

As an addition to the previous images here illustrations showing the gun ports lids on the hull.
Please enjoy them:
 

 

Hello Friends,
many thanks for your nice comments. This is the motivation for the next work.
 
Here is the continuation of the construction of the gun ports lids.
Based on the following pictures the next steps are clear.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello Egen!
 
Beautiful work as always. A table saw is one of the machines on my list for this year...
 
I am kind of "slow" so I have make a sketch to see if I have understood the idea of your device. Tell me if I´m right or wrong please. I´ll erase the post if you want. I do not want to confused the people...
 

 
best wishes!
 
 
Daniel.

Daniel that looks like quite a sturdy house you are building!

Recently I was doing grating and would like to talk about a device that made my friend Sergey from Russia.
I think the principles of easy to see from the photos.
I myself could not do it out of iron, but I made out of wood and it works the same way.
I hope it will be useful to many.

Hello and Hola!
 
I have not try the drawplate. I was tempted but I prefer to complete the lower deck clamp and move on. Beside I have to screw the clamp to the table and I need that space on the table for the sand disc machine.
 
Any way here are some pics. Without a doubt It has been the worst piece I have had to do. More difficult than the hawse pieces or the stern cant frames. The clamp is really thick and I have been boiling the different pieces, one every single day. Glue it while “fresh” and let it dry for at least 24 hours… The Admiral was starting to look at me kind of weird…
 
Those "poles" to keep the piece in place are bamboo sticks, pretty cheap and disposables.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I will spend next week sand the exterior of the hull and cleaning all the patterns. Wish me luck!!
 
Daniel.

8:22 AM.
 
With those square doors that tiny superstructure make the impression of a little house to me. It could be design in our days from MVRDV dutch architects for example... Watching so many movies with all the doors with round corners have "intoxicated" me. Funny how the things were done on 1939 or before and how the designe of a single door has changed over the years.
 
Here´s a pic I have found on inet, you might have it. With the amount of pics on your log, I´m sure will be here... Anyway It´s another one that goes to my wall on a frame!

 
 
Happy day!
 
 
Daniel.

Hello and Hola!
 
I have not try the drawplate. I was tempted but I prefer to complete the lower deck clamp and move on. Beside I have to screw the clamp to the table and I need that space on the table for the sand disc machine.
 
Any way here are some pics. Without a doubt It has been the worst piece I have had to do. More difficult than the hawse pieces or the stern cant frames. The clamp is really thick and I have been boiling the different pieces, one every single day. Glue it while “fresh” and let it dry for at least 24 hours… The Admiral was starting to look at me kind of weird…
 
Those "poles" to keep the piece in place are bamboo sticks, pretty cheap and disposables.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I will spend next week sand the exterior of the hull and cleaning all the patterns. Wish me luck!!
 
Daniel.

Thanks Michael, Pat and Alex. Well good sirs other then pot's and pan's the stove it complete, accept for the  stack. I finally added the pully's and chain, for the pit, which was just a little touche. Most of the new parts are made out of metal accept for the pulley's which are wood. Couldn't find any brass round stock big enough. Well back to the pump's. Gary

Thanks every one and those folks for there likes. I have got the stove further along and do think  I have come close to the cast iron look, at least as close as my skill will let me. Well back to work on her gun deck guys. Here is some updated photo's guys, and Mr Jones finally got a paint job along with the stove. Some were he seem to have picked up a slop bucket. Now I wonder where he got that from. Thanks again guy's.
 
Gary

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 34 – Stern Deadwood continued
 
In the first picture the stern deadwood has been constructed.  A template has been made and is being used to mark out the bearding line on the model.
 

 
As mentioned before, the bearding line describes the position along the hull where the hull profiles intersect with the width of the deadwood.  Below this line the deadwood narrows down to the rabbet of the keel.  The cant frames rest on this line and provide for the increased breadth of the hull above it.  The other side was marked with the same template.
 
In the next picture another template is being used to mark the cutting down line on the port side.
 

 
The cutting down line marks the intersections of the inboard faces of the frames with the deadwood.  It is just slightly below the top of the deadwood.
 
In the next picture the fore and aft lines of each cant frame are being marked on the deadwood.
 

 
These lines are squared up from the base drawing using the small square and the special Plexiglas square that was made to clear the keel side support strips on the shipway.
 
The next picture shows the cant frame lines drawn in.  As with the bow, these lines define the shallow mortises that will seat each cant frame.
 

 
The dashed lines forward of the cant frames mark the location of the half frames back to the last full square frame.  The next picture shows the remaining area to be framed.
 

 
In the next picture the two central stern timbers have been cut out and are held up in place on the sternpost.  Stern framing evolved during the clipper period.  Early clippers continued to feature the square counter stern and transoms of earlier times.  As the elliptical and circular sterns evolved, new methods were used in their construction.  Young America’s actual construction was not recorded.  I have elected to go with the transomless framing that was widely used at the time on circular/elliptical sterns.
 

 
In the next picture the lines of the cant frame mortises are being scribed with a knife before paring them out.
 

 
The last picture shows the in situ paring of the mortises on the starboard side
in progress.
 

 
The extent of each mortise is defined by the two cant frame face lines, the cutting down line at the top and the bearding line at the bottom.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 33 – Aft Keelson/Deadwood
 
In the first picture a section of upper keelson tier is being glued to the lower tier.
 

 
I have been using pins with small wood blocks as opposed to clamps when gluing pieces like this.  It is working well, but it is important to size the blocks (or drill the holes) accurately so just enough pin head has to be driven into the wood.  Too much and the pin will bend or be hard to remove.  Not enough and the piece will not be secured.
 
The next picture shows some of the lower keelson pieces glued in place.
 

 
The frame cross spalls are being removed as this works proceeds.  With the lower keelson glued and bolted to through the frames into the keel, the  hull frames are quite secure and no longer need them.
 
The next picture shows the fitting of the last keelson section.
 

 
The last step in fitting these last pieces is to carefully trim the aft ends of the slightly over sized piece for a neat fit against the sternpost knee.  All of the scarph joints were cut before either adjacent piece was installed.  The next picture shows the final fit.
 

 
As I mentioned earlier, the keelson in these long clippers was the main longitudinal member and so it was installed in a straight line from stem to stern, with the deadwood at each end built up on top of it.
 
The next picture shows the first two deadwood sections cut out and and set in place between the keelson and the inner post.
 

 
Once these have been roughly fit, the patterns are removed for final trimming as shown below.
 

 
The last picture shows an upper piece ready for gluing.
 

 
Glue is placed in the gap and the pins driven down for a tight joint fit.  There is still one section above this – in two pieces – that will form the curved top of the deadwood.  All of the sections are also later secured with epoxied copper bolts into the sections below and the inner post. 
 
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 32 – Frame Alignment/Fairing
 
The aft half and cant frames are bolted to the sides of the keelson/deadwood, so these cannot be installed until that assembly is in place.  The keelson comes first, but to install that it is necessary to have the inboard faces of at least the floor timbers well faired.
 
The first step was to check and, if necessary, adjust the alignment of the installed square frames.  The first picture shows this being done with a batten.
 

 
It can be seen in this picture that there is a gap over the center frame.  To correct this, the pin holding the top of the frame to the ribband was removed and the frame pushed downward slightly on this side to adjust it outward.  A new pinhole was drilled while holding the corrected position – as shown in the next photo.
 

 
All the frames aft of 0, on both sides were checked and five or six were adjusted in this way before proceeding with the next steps.
 
The outsides of the frames between the floor heads and the ribbands were then faired as shown in the next picture. 
 

 
In this picture a cabinet scraper is being used on this part of the hull.  This tool has some advantages for this.  First, it works with the grain so sanding out cross grain scratches is reduced.  More importantly, it allows you to easily see when the frames have been leveled out – or which frames are out of line.  Pre beveling of the frames before setting greatly reduces the amount of work in this step.  No cross grain sanding was necessary in these areas.
 
With the outside of the frames faired out, the floors could be faired to receive the keelson.  This fairing was done out to the floor heads.  A rotary tool with a flapper wheel as shown in the next picture was used for some of this, so taking this fairing out at least to the floor heads is advisable before installing the keelson.
 

 
This tool also has the advantage that it sands with the grain.  In the next picture the fairness is being checked at the floor heads.  The frames above the floor heads are still a bit rough.
 

 
Finally the joint face with the keelson is leveled out as shown below.
 

 
All this work was done in the forebody earlier to install the forward part of the keelson and the forward deadwood.  The next picture shows the first section of the lower tier of the aft keelson installed.  Copper wire bolts through every other frame have been inserted through into the keel and epoxied.  The frames are now well secured.
 

 
The next section of the upper keelson tier is ready to be installed.  The dark areas are still damp from washing off the epoxy for the bolts with isopropanol.
 
The central model support bolt hole comes through the aft end of the keelson section in this picture.  The next task will be to cut a mortise around that hole to insert a nut – next time.
 
Ed