BareHook

When dealing with this issue I run a single lanyard and tighten to my planned tension. This determines how many twists the line does at that tension. I then reverse the twists to the correct count, wrap the lanyard and apply tension and everything straitens-out.
 
Ken

I look forward to following your build, I've been considering this kit for awhile
 
Ken

I probably could convert from any schooner, but when I start scratch building, I want to build as historically accurate as possible. Right now I'm "cutting my teeth" or building my skills on some ficticious kits that i'm renaming after each of my kids.
 
Ken

Interesting, what kind of documentation/plan are available?
 
Ken

Brian,
This is where almost every AVS build differs, depending on the interpretation of the plans by the builder. I ended up with the sides of my windows vertical and the angles forming an arch along the top and bottom (see pic). I also chose to round the frame edges and have them protrude out instead of being flush mounted. I think any way you do it will look good, just remember to keep the window frames identified in their laser cutouts because the inboard and outboard port and starboard are slightly different.

How about:
 
"Rigging Period Ship Models"
 
and
 
"Rigging Period Fore and Aft Craft"
 
Both by Lennarth Petersson.
 
I've been planning on getting these two.
 
Ken

Completed Booms, Topping Lifts, Sheets

More pics below

Looking good, you may want to add some support blocks bonded between the bulkheads to stiffen up and keep the keel strait while planking, Also make sure you take plenty of time in fairing the bulkheads, seems almost everyone who builds the AVS reflect that they could or should have done more fairing.
 
Ken

Completed Booms, Topping Lifts, Sheets

After a 5 year "shore leave" I'm back I'll call restart date July 2020, its good to get back into it, got distracted fishing and a couple moves makes it hard to work on.
Masting completed, rigging in process, will post some pics soon.

More pics below

Another idea, is a diorama you could call "after the storm" she looks like she rode out a hurricane, pretty cool looking if you take it in a "storm damage" context. Especially the top down photo looks like she is sitting in calm water at a dock, . I can only imagine sailors from the era dealing with a similar mess after riding a storm.
I look forward to seeing her restored.

I've added notches for the bulwark and gunport framing. Next up is installing the frames and the fashion pieces then completing the bulwark, transom, counter planking and cap rails.
I decided not to do treenails on the deck. I did a small experiment piece on a scrap of wood and was not happy with the look. I think the soft basswood used on the decks makes creating sharp details such as treenails very difficult, especially at 1:80 scale.

I completed the deck planking and quarterdeck face planking. I used pencil graphite for the caulking and basswood for the planks. Next time I may try black colored pencil or crayon for the caulking, the graphite dust was messy and seemed to penetrate the grain of the wood. Though the basswood is a bit soft, I like how the grain shows up and has some color variation, you just need to be carefull not to splinter or gouge it.
 
Next up is treenailing the decks, I'm not sure if the filler I have will show any contrast though considering the drill size will be a #76 (.020) in soft wood.
I'm going to do an experiment with some planking on a block to try out treenail filler as well as the rail/gunport framing notches inside the upper planking.
 
Ken

I've completed the planking from the wale down, but it still needs sanding.
I shaped-up the rudder and drilled the hull for the rudder and masts. The rudder is a different wood than the walnut planking, so I may need to stain to match or leave as is? Opinions?
 
Next up is deck planking and then the upper hull rail and gunport framing/planking.
 
Ken

Its good to be back and modeling, I'm continuing my Hannah build after being shelved for 5 years.

OK, completed masts, shrouds, ratlines, catheads rigging, anchors & bouys, forstays, fore running rigging, fabricated booms & gaffs
I think that captures most...
Next up rigging booms, gaffs, yards, backstays
 
Gotta give a shout out to "Syren" co, their blocks are awesome! though I need to buy more needle threaders, I only get about 2-4 blocks esp the smaller 2mm and 3/32 before threader wire breaks.

I'll call my official start date 6/14/2014
 
I found this kit on ebay, and wanted to build a Hannah without having to commit to a full POF scratch build. This will be a fun little build that will be for my youngest daughter Hannah. I want to try and improve the historical accuracy of this kit, but don't want to kill myself getting there, my main goal is a nice little intricate ship that represents the Hannah that my daughter will be proud to display in the future when she has her own home.
 
The kit included a solid hull, plans, printed deck on thin wood, wood dowels, wood strips, several cut pieces, rigging materials, cast cannons and sails. The box claims 1:48 scale but by best calculatuions estimate her as 1:80 scale. The cannon casting in brass or bronze are suprisingly decent and am considering keeping them as-is as they have a nice aged patina finish.
 
The upgrade will include planking over the solid hull, Planked deck, and complete full rigging following "Lennarth Petersson Rigging Fore and Aft craft" American schooner rigging info.
 
The hull has now been initially faired, I had to align the stem slot a bit to starboard to be it properly centered, but the rest was within reasonable limits. I now need to do final checks between P & S for conformity and shape then mark the hull with lines for planking butts and calculate planking bands and widths for tapering.
I remade the stem, keel and stern post from walnut so that it will match the walnut planking and give me the option of keeping the hull a natural finish. I will be planking with walnut strips for the hull and basswood for the decks. (Note: I have enough wood leftover from my AVS to complete these).
Last nite I started carving out the rabbet and hope to have the garboard strakes installed this weekend.
 
Ken
 
EDIT: I will also be using the Sultana practicum as a guideline for this build

Fairing and the rabbet are pretty much complete, when measurung for planking both sides were really close in length. I just want to double check the stern section profiles, but mid section forward are a good match.
In the bow pic, you can see where I had to fix the keel slot, all pieces are loose fitted at this time.
Initial measurements look like 3 planking bands of 5 strakes each with a nominal width of 1/8" plus the garboard strake.
 
Next up:
Complete fairing Final hull and deck marking Trace deck profile for outer nibbing strake pattern Install upper deck spacers and frames Ken

I've added the upper deck (would it be a poop deck on this vessel?) spacer blocks and faired them to the hull contours and deck camber.
I cut the rabbets and installed the stem and Keel, but am waiting on the Sternpost until after planking the lower hull as this will allow me to trim all the planks even.
The wales have been formed and painted and I'm in process of forming the Garboard strakes.
 
Next up
Install the wales and Garboard strakes Calculate planking bands and tapering - final adjust Plank lower hull Question, would it help with bonding the planking if I prep the solid hull with sanding sealer or dilluted PVA? I plan to use PVA for my planking.
 
Ken
 
Edit: Thought of the day, I got a great deal on this kit, but as it turns out, by the time I'm done upgrading, I should have just bought a more expensive version with more usable parts.

I've completed the planking from the wale down, but it still needs sanding.
I shaped-up the rudder and drilled the hull for the rudder and masts. The rudder is a different wood than the walnut planking, so I may need to stain to match or leave as is? Opinions?
 
Next up is deck planking and then the upper hull rail and gunport framing/planking.
 
Ken

I completed the deck planking and quarterdeck face planking. I used pencil graphite for the caulking and basswood for the planks. Next time I may try black colored pencil or crayon for the caulking, the graphite dust was messy and seemed to penetrate the grain of the wood. Though the basswood is a bit soft, I like how the grain shows up and has some color variation, you just need to be carefull not to splinter or gouge it.
 
Next up is treenailing the decks, I'm not sure if the filler I have will show any contrast though considering the drill size will be a #76 (.020) in soft wood.
I'm going to do an experiment with some planking on a block to try out treenail filler as well as the rail/gunport framing notches inside the upper planking.
 
Ken

I've added notches for the bulwark and gunport framing. Next up is installing the frames and the fashion pieces then completing the bulwark, transom, counter planking and cap rails.
I decided not to do treenails on the deck. I did a small experiment piece on a scrap of wood and was not happy with the look. I think the soft basswood used on the decks makes creating sharp details such as treenails very difficult, especially at 1:80 scale.

I've loose fitted the rudder, pintiles and gudgeons. After blackening the brass, they wil be bonded in place. I came up with an easy way to create the rudder hardware, I cut a strip of brass the combined width for pintle and gudgeon and slit it down the middle with a dremel cutoff blade, leaving a center section the width of the rudder solid and bent the strips opposite around the rudder and hull to form the assembly. The rudder is stained to match the walnut hull after it is finished, so appears darker at this time.
 
I've completed the upper planking to the main caprail and am pretty happy with the results in planking to the frames.
 
Next is the main caprails which are fabbed and painted (no pic).On many models of the Hannah, the next plank above the cap rail is of a lighter wood, then a false rail with scroll work, I may keep the plank walnut as the rest, since all the cap/false rails will be black.