Beef Wellington

Hi Dave, I think you have some latitude, and I don't think anyone can definitively say how it was.  Included below are some pictures I took at the Annapolis museum, so sorry for the poor picture quality.  You can see that the frigate does not have any port lids at all (not sure which model this is), and the two decker shows ports only in the more extreme end of the hull, i.e. open around about the open deck.  Despite Chris beating himself up unecessarily, I don't think the kit representation is really that out of whack with historical likelihood.  My suspicion is the port lids are added primarly where there would have been a permanent or semi-permanent cabin for obvious reasons.

If you look at a 2 or 3 decker, you will see the same, the upper gun deck (which incorporates the Weather Deck) has few gun port lids
 
PS - Diana was my very first wooden ship kit design (25 years ago)! I have learned a lot since then, so apologies for its many shortcomings.....

Thanks David for your kind words and I would not have managed it so far without the help of others who have gone before me as your good self, so appreciate your input a lot. I can see why you have left a bigger gap between gunports 7 & 8 as I have thought about the space required for the ladders and fenders but I hopefully should be OK with 38mm as is the drawing any further and then i think there are issues down the line with forward gunports or chain plates. You have just reminded me as regards the quarterdeck chainplates and shrouds but I am certain I have alreasdy done this but will double check anyway. Haha.
 
Preperation for first layer of planking.
        I temporarily pinned the upper false beck to the upper bulhead supports and to my surprise there was a 3 to 5 mm gap between the top of the inner hull planking and the false deck. 
III
I then checked the hieght of the false deck against the Caldercraft drawing and it is correct. I can,t understand why there is  gap as I brought the inner hull planking up to the top of the bulkhead uprights and then I realized this is only level with the bottom of the upper false deck supports doh!. After realizing this I decided to raise the inner hull wall to reach the upper surface of the brackets, It was necessary to fit seperate pieces between the bulkhead uprights so now the inner hull planking reaches 5mm higher at the mid section where the upper deck is open. I will need to think of some way of supporting the mid section of the upper false deck. I see by the drawing that there is supposed to be 5 x 5mm  plywood athwartship beams which I am not sure whether using plywood in this area is a good idea as they will be seen. These are not attached to the bulkhead uprights so might have to sort something out to support the deck in this area. I will need to give this some more thought.
                I also need to fit some supports to the quarter area as at the moment when I come to start the 1st layer of hull planking the planks will be just hanging in the air  in this area.



       It was also necessary to trim the outer edge of the false deck flush with the bulkheads and some more final fairing of the bulkheads will be required before starting the first layer of planking.

It was a remarkable real challenge trying to tie and attach those pairs of single blocks "in situ"....
My arthroscopic skills helped a lot on this

Hi Stergios, hopefully I can answer your question.  The problem is that at real world scale, the lines that are secured to the braces would not pull the stays out of their natural position because they are so much more massive.  Without dealing with this at this scale, the braces would pull the stays out of their natural line which is what I wanted to avoid.  The approach used weighted the stays down enough to keep them in their natural position while the braces were given a little tension, then dilute PVA was brushed onto the braces so that when dry, they retain a 'taught' profile, even though there is no longer any real tension.  Seem to recall I just used plastic clips or simply tied other thread around the stay to counteract the force of the braces.  In the situations where the brace goes through 2 blocks on the stay, these were handled sequentially, waiting for the PVA to fully dry before moving on.  Good news, if it doesn't quite work out as you'd like, you can re-wet the line and repeat the process until you're happy.

Hi Stergios, hopefully I can answer your question.  The problem is that at real world scale, the lines that are secured to the braces would not pull the stays out of their natural position because they are so much more massive.  Without dealing with this at this scale, the braces would pull the stays out of their natural line which is what I wanted to avoid.  The approach used weighted the stays down enough to keep them in their natural position while the braces were given a little tension, then dilute PVA was brushed onto the braces so that when dry, they retain a 'taught' profile, even though there is no longer any real tension.  Seem to recall I just used plastic clips or simply tied other thread around the stay to counteract the force of the braces.  In the situations where the brace goes through 2 blocks on the stay, these were handled sequentially, waiting for the PVA to fully dry before moving on.  Good news, if it doesn't quite work out as you'd like, you can re-wet the line and repeat the process until you're happy.

About time I caught up with myself...
 
@Ben - I'm going to have to stand guilty as charged!  Appreciate your post, this was something that I have been wrestling with for some time and fully recognize that the approach taken is a compromise.  My thinking has been as follows, and I suspect that every model builder will arrive at a different place.  Your coils are certainly excellently executed!  
Quality of rope used:  Having used the Syren line on 'Jason', there is just no comparison between good quality custom rope and the 'stuff' supplied in kits.  My skill levels are just not up to achieving consistent coils following a seamanlike practice (that look anywhere near acceptable). Scale:  This seems to be a variable from modeler to modeler, but to my eye many of the coils using this technique just do not look right at scale, especially when many pins are used on a rail adjacent to each other. Much of the rope used per kit instructions are much thinner than your prototype - mostly kit supplied 0.25mm line which is not very substantial and subject to gravity making floating 'ovals' distracting Quantity of rope (on the actual ships):  Looking at many older photographs of ships, the one thing that stands out to me is that the quantity of belayed rope used on contemporary working vessels just looks far more voluminous for whatever reason than that seen on modern 'museum' ships, maybe because of longer working lengths, necessity to be worked by many hands etc etc. The bottom line though is that there is enough on this build that continues to bother me (both mistakes and things that I have since learned) to push me to continue  with an eye to completion.  I'll apply for parole at the duly appointed time...
 
Rigging (almost) complete:
After nearly 7 years, with all the main rigging elements in place, I can start to smell the scent of completion.  The only outstanding rigging feature (in addition to some remaining decorative coils) are the spritsail sail sheets which will be added when I'm confident that the anchor placement won't cause problems.
 
Braces:
One of the bigger challenges were the braces, mainly because many of these are bent onto various stays.  At this scale the rope doesn't behave well, and preventing the stays being pulled into all sorts of unnatural alignments by the much thinner braces, and keeping the braces taught, meant taking this very slowly, ensuring line had time settle into place and in many cases using dilute PVA while attempting to keep the stays in position.  This proved to be especially challenging for the fore and fore topsail braces which bend to the main stay in one rather tight spot.

Sheets, tacks and cluelines:
Petersson was a big help here to illustrate how these worked in practice as the instructions are simplified.  Given that both the main and fore require these, with 3 belaying points for each, some planning is needed to ensure sufficient working room as once in position access is even more severely limited.  The tack is the most substantial of the running rigging used and 0.75mm rope was used as per instructions.  At this thickness, it proved necessary to coil rope on the deck after belaying to pinrails.
 
I took the same approach to BE on his Pegasus build in having the sheets and tacks go outboard of any standing rigging, although the sheets are yet to be finally secured.


And finally, some overall shots..

 
 
 
 
 
 

@Mike - thanks for the kind words!
@Martin - I guess I'm located in the valley just over the hills from the Litchfield Hills of Connecticut 🙂
 
Rope Coils...
Before any more rigging can be completed, rope coils really need to be attended to.  Once the remaining braces, cluelines and sheets go on, access will be impossibly restricted.  I'm not a fan of gravity defying suspended circular coils which don't quite look right to my eye.  I really wasn't quite sure of the approach to take, but I knew I wanted to try to replicate the shear mass of heaps of rope often shown on period photos and try to give the rope some mass, but knew that doing so would be very difficult using the kit rope.
 
After many attempts, a mock up of the pin rail was made up and the rope stretched around a belaying pin and some wire.  Dilute PVA was then applied to ensure it kept its shape, and some extra rope wrapped around to keep the shape.  Once trimmed and the glue has dried, these can be hung over the desired location.  These still require some fettling and wanted to see how I feel about them in a few days with a number on position before securing or trying an alternative approach.  I'd welcome thoughts and suggestions...
 

 

Hi Stergios, hopefully I can answer your question.  The problem is that at real world scale, the lines that are secured to the braces would not pull the stays out of their natural position because they are so much more massive.  Without dealing with this at this scale, the braces would pull the stays out of their natural line which is what I wanted to avoid.  The approach used weighted the stays down enough to keep them in their natural position while the braces were given a little tension, then dilute PVA was brushed onto the braces so that when dry, they retain a 'taught' profile, even though there is no longer any real tension.  Seem to recall I just used plastic clips or simply tied other thread around the stay to counteract the force of the braces.  In the situations where the brace goes through 2 blocks on the stay, these were handled sequentially, waiting for the PVA to fully dry before moving on.  Good news, if it doesn't quite work out as you'd like, you can re-wet the line and repeat the process until you're happy.

Ensign...conclusion:
A tiny bit of steam was used to soften the ensign while various "rounded implements" with different radii (dowel, metal file shafts etc.) were used to try and introduce various folds.  I'd love to be able to describe a reproduceable scientific process, but thats not what happened.  It was really just a continual serious of tweaks, leaving to dry and most importantly trying not to introduce creases.  Steam worked fine to initially soften and allow the structural folds to be introduced, but isn't really a good ongoing solution as it tends to undo any previous work.  Real care is also needed to not 'over wet' the painted flag, not sure I was completely successful here.  Final tweaking was done by wetting very gently any tools used and trying to hold in position while it dried and the fold takes.

...and with that milestone, I'm declaring this build FINISHED!  
 
This was my first wooden ship build, and first model I've built for over 30 years.  Its taken probably 8 years to get this far off an on (probably 7 years more than it should), but I have to say I'm glad I was able to finish her.  I've come to realize that I enjoy the journey more than the destination, and I certainly experienced moments when I could easily have put her aside permanently, mainly due to me recognizing unfixable mistakes or compromises that that could so easily been enhanced had I known more at the time.  Given the length of time taken to complete, this progression in knowledge and execution is very apparent to me, but I hope is less apparent to others.  All in all, this was a most enjoyable project that exposed me to the necessary knowledge and techniques that I hope build on and leverage in the future.  I still need to make up a protective case, and will probably continue to see needed fixes and touchups before she (hopefully) is put in a place of rest.  I would like to thank this entire community for the ongoing help, support and encouragement - without which I would not have reached this point.
 
Few pictures to celebrate, apologies that these aren't exactly studio quality.

 

Sorry to keep returning to the position of the gun ports. After using the drawing as a template and cutting out the gun ports from the drawing. I found that apart from the forward 2 ports 1 & 2 the rest pretty much fits without altering the length of the upper bulwark/template and should be able to fit the ladders without having to cut the length of the upper bulwark. As regards the forward two bulkheads , If I move these a few mm forward I should be able to miss these but will be unable to fit ant gun tackle to these cannon. As these will be under the deck I am not sure this is necessary however I have glued extra pieceds of timber to the bulkhead upright supports so can cut these away at a later stage, so a bit of belt and braces approach.
       I have now received the Bloomfield Cannon barrels from Vandguard ship models and can see fom the position of the cannon on the deck I think i will need to raise the gunports slightly than on the drawing to ensure they are lieing centrally in the gun ports.



As far as I can see the position of the gun ports on the model can not be the same as the drawing on the AOTS Diana as this model is POB and not frame built. as is the AOTS Diana. I asked this question on this forum about chainplates lining up with gunports and I recieved a number of varied solutions. I also think the instructions is what confused me as both gunports being 30 mm Caldercraft instructions or 31.5 mm AOTS dimentions, both do not work out. However the Caldercraft above drawing which I pinned to the model does line up and the bulkheads miss all of the gunports except no 4 & 5 bulkheads and gunports 1 & 2. Thank you to Vane for pointing out that as this is a 3d ship and the drawing is 2 dimentional then infact these  gun ports would miss the .bulheads 4 & 5.  I therefore think that as the chainplates appear to miss the gunports as well as the bulkheads I think  following the Caldercraft drawing is the only satisfactorily solution I can come up with. Hope this makes sense. 

Those carronades are a nice touch, looking good.

I would suggest using think back card or tape as you suggest.  Think you will get a much better result that you ae happy with.

Hi Beez, think your toned down stern is much more in keeping.  You're making great progress.

6) Boomkins and railings: We are almost done and must focus on the boomkins and railings of the bow: 
 

 

 
The railings are made with 0.8 mm brass wire (not included in the kit), soldered in their middle and painted cannon black.
 

 

 

 
Finally, a couple of overall views of the progress: 
 

 

 

 
I hope you have enjoyed that sequence of building. I cannot convey enough the relief and the joy to have this delicate section behind me.
 
Yves

3) It is time to worry about the Knightheads, securing the bowsprit. In the kit, these are placed on top of the gratings, which does not make any sense and is not at all realistic. The knightheads are part of the hull framing and must be strong to fulfill their role. I used a piece of cherry of 3 mm thick and glued it strongly to the bow assembly: 
 

 
This gives me more surface and and a good anchors to glue the knightheads. These are filed to accomodate the diameter and orientation of the bowsprit: 
 

 
I know they are still hanging in the air, but that is  the best I could do with this kit.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Et voila. I am feeling a lot better, now that this delicate assembly is behind me.
 
Yves
 
 

thats Dobbie Pingate Periscope and 8 year old English Cocker Spaniel
 
My two loves 
 

Hi
I have achieved my slightly absurd, self, challenge of planking the VM 26' foot launch without resorting to stealers, infill planks or any fillers. Strangely I get wood striping even though all of the planks came off the same sheet and were always orientating outwards on one side. It doesn't really matter but is odd and I can still elect to paint. The keel has some variant colours too - but that is also okay with me. Of course there are some air gaps and you couldn't float this boat but it isn't a bathtub toy! The shell is eggshell fragile and I have yet to sand inside. A tricky but very cool little kit. I did the last plank in three sections on both sides (it's the third one up from the keel) - it was a killer to fit. Otherwise all planks run full length. When I finish it, I'll get back to the main subject = Fly.
 
 

I 'started' at the rearmost bulkhead and which positioned that gun port.  The rear of that gunport was flush against the full bulkhead with no adjustment.  From there the other positions were determined, 30mm apart which resulted in only the first two bulkheads requiring 'treatment'.  Based on differences on each it and construction, I'm sure this could vary a little which is no big deal.  There is one pair of ports where the steps are located that are further apart as indicated on plans, I made a really silly error by mispositioning this which had to be corrected.  I didn't find a satisfactory solution that avoided having to deal with bulkheads 3&4 keeping a consistent port separation.  Good luck!
 
Interestingly, I found at a later date on NMM plans that there was in fact another port added further forward, this could only be a bridle port with no cannon as it would be located in the manger area.  It would be very difficult to show this port opened, but had I known I may have attempted to show this in a closed position.

Planking has started, this will be a lengthy process....
 
I started at the keel to get going, will move up to the upper section and work down in due course.  Even though I had shaped the bulkheads, I'm trying to fine tune as I go as it isn't until a few planks start going on that emphasize deviations, and the hull lines becomes much clearer to me as the surface grows.   
 

Cheers Eamonn, Jim, BE, Stergios and the 'likes' for the interest and kind words.  I tried to superimpose 'Ballyhoo' on 'Jason' but couldn't figure out how to do it.
 
Sjors - don't worry, there will be guns on this deck (eventually).  But I believe the deck is more commonly referred to as the upper deck on a frigate (even though it has one above it...and also has guns!), although I do seem to recall seeing reference to a gun deck as well somewhere.  Maybe someone else can speak definitively on this.
 
Alistair - it did work out OK.  I split the false deck down the center line first (the grain introduces a little error here), and then taped them back together on the back side.  The 2 innermost planks were glued in place on each half and then separated so that I knew they would marry up properly during final assembly.  An unexpected issue was that the deck did tend to cup a little, probably a combination of humidity changes here as well as the glue under the planks shrinking a little.  It was easily manageable, but you can see a slightly larger gap at the extreme ends where there weren't any bulkheads under the deck to force the camber.  As for treenails, I don't feel any compulsion to do them, but, I will have plenty of time to change my mind.
 
Have managed to install the interior bulwarks this weekend, small 0.5mm slivers of scrap were used to build up some of the worst offending bulkheads to remove major waviness.  These haven't been sanded yet but overall pretty pleased, any remaining small waviness should be pretty easy to sand out.  The bow section seems to have come out OK with extending the planking past bulkhead 5.  Most miraculously, the bulwarks do seem to follow the line of the margin planks, so a big 'phew' there.  Although not entirely symetrical, this will not be seen once the foc'sle is on    Also cut slots for the skid beams as it seems to be a lot easier to do now, these aren't mentioned until page 9 of the instructions.
 
Now the interior bulwarks rare in place, the rest of the bulkheads can be faired as the extensions are much too thin and delicate to be able to shape without additional support.
 

Nice hear from you John
 
Mobbsie - cheers mate, though I think you're being a bit generous with the praise 
 
Well, bit of a milestone, the upper deck is finally completed and glued into position.  Next step will be the interior bulwarks, will require some tweaking as a few test planks indicate that the bulwarks (even after shaping) still will be a bit wavy, I'll probably just add some thin scrap strips to the these to build them up, but more on that when its done.
 
The instructions make no mention of some deck former beams that need to go on before the upper deck, the only reference is on the side plan - I nearly missed them.  When in position there is clearly a problem because the beams will interfere with the open companions, once again the plans clearly show this issue.  Simple to cut out the center section without any real structural implications, the ones remaining will be hidden by gratings.  You can also see in the picture that I glued some thin beech off cuts where the two halves will join to provide some surface to mate the deck surfaces smoothly.  Deck was glued in multiple stages, first half deck glued to center line, section half deck glued to center and mated, and then glued down to the bulkheads to give correct camber.
 

 
Final result....completing the decking off the ship seems to have worked out just fine.
 


 
Size comparison to Snake which is still laid up....Jason will be a big boy!
 

 
 
 
 
 

Decided I really needed to post  few pics to show I'm still here.  With the weather turning, and the end of the soccer/football season approaching (I coach my son and daughters teams) I can finally foresee more time in the shipyard in the evenings.  I had spent a lot of time trying to figure out the deck arrangement, picture are pretty self explanatory and work obviously still in progress.  Margin planks are not glued yet, but I did cut my first scarf joint.  As mentioned previously, estimating the line of the margin plank required the future shape of the interior bulwark once planked to be estimated - I won't know that I've been successful until its too late.
 
Unfortunately, at lot of this will not be seen once the quarter deck and forecastle are in place, but its good practice and building my confidence to tackle the more visible top decks.
 

 

 

 

Small progress, I've at least committed to the approach I'll take on the deck planking.  Nothing too exciting, but I will install a margin plank which I haven't done before,even though this will barely (if at all) be seen.  I've decided to try planking off the ship to make this a little easier.  Worst case, it will be good practice for the quarterdeck and forecastle, but I do hope to leave the option open to leave some of the fo'csle gratings off so a little more can be seen.  I've used the placement of the deck beams per AOTS to determine where the planks terminate.  The margin plank curve was estimated from laying a plank along the interior bulwark and tracing the shape on the false deck. 
 
Still early days, but no major hiccups yet...
 

David - you can rest easy, there is plenty of historical latitude at this specific time period when these ships were designed and built, which was a great period of change to really do what you want.  Built up bulwarks were the fashion, then moved back to open bulwarks, and then finally built up again.  Armament wise, carronades gradually added to, and final replaced the quarterdeck and foc's'l cannon.  Available plans are not consistent for specific ships, probably because of the factors above and depending on when they were drafted and what they represent (as designed, or built, or when in service).