Beef Wellington

Thank you, Don, Lawrence, Joe, and Mike for your most generous comments, much appreciated.
@ Lawrence, served brass wire comes in very handy for a number of tricky little rigging requirements, and Catharpins are one of the best examples.
@ Mike, I didn't repost the log twice,  just in two halves. Fortunately the first half was a straight copy and paste from another forum, and the second half (Masting and Rigging) from my word/photo files, which were in a reasonable order but still took several day to complete and proved the most tiresome. Otherwise I doubt I would have had the heart or inclination to start again.
I now live in fear of the 'delete' button
ps: Have you changed your tag name from 'Landlubber Mike?
  B.E.  
 

Thank you Chuck, Nils, and Michael, and to all those  who have re-visited the log and hit the 'like' button multiple times.
Scuppers
One of tidy up items to do is the Scuppers for the Manger.
I had much earlier in the build attended to the other six scuppers required along the hull and this is the last one.
These are 'false' scuppers in the sense that they are drilled from outside and do not connect to the scupper outlets in the waterway, a much too fraught exercise to consider.

The lead flanges are made from thin slivers of aluminium tubing bashed flat on my anvil and painted  with a flat lead grey colour.

The run of seven scuppers along the hull.
With Pegasus out of her cover I took the opportunity to take some general shots.




I keep spotting things that require attention or that I have overlooked, I think this process could take a while.
B.E.
 
 

Hoisting the Ensign
This is a schematic of how I attach the Ensign to the Staff.

Incidentally this is Blue Ensign made for my Victory build, using the tissue/printing method.
I had made the Ensign and Jack Staffs some time back in the build.



The Ensign is raised.



The Jack before tweaking...............

 .........and after.
 
Almost there folks, some tidying up now to do, and a base to make.
This post marks the seven day task of rebuilding this log, I think I've got it all in the correct order.
B.E.
11 March 2017.
 
 

Ensigns.
I have opted for the Red Ensign, and a Union Flag at the Jack staff. There should also be a Commissioning Pennant worn at the Mainmast head, but these very long pennants can be difficult to  get to hang right on a model, and may be best left off, I am undecided at present.
The two references I use for flags are:
Flags for Ship modellers and marine artists by Alec A Purves
Flags at Sea by Timothy Wilson.
For Pegasus the pre 1801 Union flag design is appropriate; for Fly with a career spanning the Act of Union of Great Britain and Ireland, either would be appropriate.
Many depictions of the pre 1801 Ensign, and Jack show quite a broad white diagonal representing the Scottish Saltire

However, contemporary marine  art does tend to show the Union flag with a much darker blue ground and a much narrower white diagonal.

This extract is of a painting that hangs above my desk. It is entitled A Two-decker and a Frigate off Harwich  by One of my favourite contemporary marine artists, Charles Brooking, and is my guide for the Pegasus Ensigns.

This is my preferred design, albeit in rough form.
Making the Ensign
A photo of the Ensign is printed out at the appropriate size to form the pattern. This scales to 57mm x 87mm.
 
To make the Ensign I used Modelspan tissue.

A piece of Modelspan is taped across a box with a rectangular hole in it.
It is then painted both sides with dilute pva, and dried with a hair dryer.
It is then taped over the photo image of the Ensign and  run thro' the printer.
I allow sufficient extra on the hoist edge to form the hoist thro' which the halyard will be fitted.

The printed image on Modelspan is a little too faded so it is again taped over a backing piece and is painted over.
At this point I place a sheet of polythene beneath the image to prevent paint bleed sticking the Modelspan to the paper beneath.
To paint the flags I have used Humbrol Acrylic paints, No 60 (Red) No 77(Blue) and No 34 (White)

Painting both sides of the Ensign completed.

The Jack was prepared in the same manner, measuring 23.8mm x 36.5mm.
The next stage is to get the flags to hang limply in a natural fashion.
My approach is to steam them and tease them into shape.

These little hand steamers are just the ticket, beats holding it over the kettle spout.

A heath Robinson device to hold the Ensign at the correct angle
whilst it is steamed and pulled into shape.

The Ensign is left to dry and hopefully stick in the arranged position.

Line is loosely tied around the  flag to assist in shape holding.
The next post will deal with attaching the flags to the staffs.
B.E.
 
 
 
 

Stanchions, and miscellaneous finishings
Stanchions.
These run along the Foc'sle and the waist.
Foc'sle

A passing rope (2½" - 0.30mm) threads thro' the Foc'sle stanchions. Eyebolts at either end of the stanchions in the planksheer and bollard timbers to secure the line.
Waist

The iron stanchions along the waist are topped by a rough tree rail. I have used a length of 'ebony' boxwood strip.

Always a fine point to when to fit these delicate pieces, don't want to do it until I am sure no more fiddling in the waist area is required, hope I'm right.
Entry stanchions and Entering ropes.
The stanchions are kit provided in brass etch, but seemed a little too short to me, so I modified them. According to Steel the Entering ropes are of 3" line (0.38mm)
I  initially used Morope 0.40mm. which is closest to scale, knotted at 5mm intervals down to the water level.
On reflection I thought the overhand knots looked too bulky; I retried it using pva blobs to represent the knots, didn't like that either.

Finally I downsized to Syren 0.3mm line and this suited my eye best.
 
Swinging Studding Booms
I made these a long time ago, there are sets for the Fore and Main Studding sails.
The Fore booms are a problem inasmuch that unlike the Main booms which lie along the Main channels, the Fore Booms have nowhere to lie insitu when not in use.

When in use the Gooseneck hooks into an eye bolt fixed in the hull just aft of the Bridle port and forward of the Billboards.
The Upper deck seems to be only practical place to store these, or perhaps lashed to the spare topmasts on the Gallows.
At over 30ft in length manoeuvring and fitting these items must have been an awkward exercise when at sea.
The Main booms hook into an iron strap with an eye at the Fore end of the channel and is supported by an iron crutch towards the aft end of the channel.

Not quite sure how these are secured along the channels but I have taken the view that lashing to a deadeye strop is a reasonable option.

The Main booms do have various guys rigged to operate, but I have not included these.
B.E.

 
 

The Fore Sheets

4½" line 0.56mm Syren 0.45mm
Eye spliced to eyebolt below fixed block in hull, 5mm fwd of  sweep port.

Thro' sheet block at the yard,then aft thro' aft fixed block.

.......to the range cleat in the waist.
 
The Fore Tacks
TACKS, SINGLE, lead through the block lashed round the outer end of the boomkin on each side, then lead upon the forecastle, and belay round a large cleat upon the cat-head, or to the topsail-sheet-bitts.
Deciding the run of this lead caused me some  trouble and I raised the issue in a separate post.
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/15232-run-of-the-fore-tack/
The response to my query was somewhat thin but I have concluded that the tacks should run outside of other rigging lines leading into the Foc'sle.

On a purely practical basis, with the sail set, the tack line would otherwise be fouled.

Tack line taken inboard and belayed around top of Head rail.
B.E.

Main mast rigging ongoing
Tying up a few more loose ends.
Firstly the Main Topmast and T'gallant backstays need to attached with their deadeyes to the Channel, and secondly the Main sheets which pass outside of the stays, but then pass thro' a fixed block and inboard to belay at a timberhead.
At this point I have one of those 'oh bugger' moments, as I realise I have slipped betwixt two stools (no pun intended) when it came to the backstays.
The kit provides for two Topmast backstays, the ffm only one, and I find I have one too many deadeyes on the channel. Needless to say I have only one backstay hanging from the Topmast head.
Too late to remove all the top hamper to add another backstay in the proper manner, but it was just about possible to thread the line up beneath the stay collars, feed it around the masthead and down to the channel.
I am encouraged by Lees comment that Main Topmasts sometimes carried one more backstay than the Fore topmasts.

Crisis over and I move on, no real visual impact of this little deception, and only you and me know about it.
My approach is to attach the deadeyes to the backstays, but leave off applying the lanyards until the sheets have been fitted and belayed.
 
Main Sheets
 I had trialled the run of the Main sheets back in November,now is the time to fix them.

The run of the Main sheets can look awkward because without sails rigged they tend to lie against the Backstays before they lead inboard. For this reason I like to have a degree of slackness in the sheets so that they do not  bind hard against the stays.
That the Channels are sniped towards the aft end on the ffm plans, which throws the backstays a little more inboard may be done to counter this .
Of course the simplest method is to not rig the sheets and tacks on a bare stick model.

The sheets are a substantial line scaling to 0.56mm ø This is an awkward size in relation to scale line. Syren has 0.45mm and 0.63mm and Morope has 0.4mm 0.6mm
I need also to take into account the tack line which is larger at 0.69mm.
I would prefer to use Syren for this particular line as the synthetic Morope needs to have some tension on it to avoid unnatural looking  kinks.
For these reasons I am using Syren 0.45mm line for the sheets, and 0.63mm for the Tacks, which give a visible difference between the two.
To get a smooth kink free run of the sheet between the sheet block and lead block on the hull I dip the line in very dilute pva, wipe off the excess and put the line under light tension for a while.
The standing end of the sheet is 'false' spliced around an eyebolt  above the aftermost gunport.

It leads thro' the sheet block from out to in, runs down to a lead block seized just above and aft of the standing part, and runs thro' the fixed block to belay at a timberhead.

The Main Sheet belay can be seen opposite the gratings.
With the Main sheet belayed I can now secure the T'gallant backstay.
 
Main Brace Falls

The ffm (18.43) indicates that once the brace line has passed thro' the the fixed block it is belayed to a timberhead some 6 to 8 feet forward to allow the Mizen topsail braces and Vangs to belay aft of the Main brace.
 On the kit model this would place the belay on a timberhead adjacent to the tiller lines.

I have run the brace falls forward to belay opposite the Mizen mast.
The Main Tack

Belaying the tack to the forward Range cleat in the waist proved a little tricky, mostly because I added the waist gangboards.

Just about managed it from the opposite sides with very long tweezers, but there are several risks poking around beneath the Pinnace at this stage.
Ffm Vol 11 para 12.15 indicates an eyebolt for the Main tack fixed in side. - note this is applicable for double tack rigs not the single tacks as used in 6th rates.
I will now move onto the Fore Sheets.
 
B.E.

Return to the blunt end.
Over the past few days I have  turned my attention back to the stern.


Some of the previously rigged lines now need to have the falls formed before the area gets too crowded.
Mizen Topsail Yard Braces

I used 1½" line (0.20mm) eye spliced around the Gaff end taken up thro' the brace pendant blocks  and down thro' the lead blocks at the gaff peak.

Eyebolts are fitted to the top of the Tafferal to take the tackle blocks for the Mizen Topsail braces
The falls pass thro' the outer lead block on the Tafferal, and thro' the fixed block to belay at the Qtr deck rail. 6" single blocks (I used Syren 3/32nd blocks) and 3mm hooks
Vangs
Steel says:
VANGS. The bight is put over the peek-end with an overhand-knot, and the double-blocks spliced in the lower ends are connected by their falls to a single block, that hooks to an eye-bolt in the upper part of the quarter-piece on each side. The standing-part makes fast to the becket in the **** of the single-block, and the leading-part leads from the double-block, and belays to a cleat nailed on the taffarel fife-rail, or round the **** of the single-block.
A Pendant line of 3" (0.37mm) is hitched around the centre of the Gaff - I used Morope 0.4mm with 6" blocks (2.38mm) spliced in. Falls of 1½" line (0.20mm)

Although they don't look it on this photo the pendants are of equal length below the Gaff.
The falls pass thro' the lead block  hooked to the Tafferal to belay. Again  Syren 3/32nd blocks and 3mm hooks were used.
For those using the ffm Vol IV as their rigging reference you should note that the guidance to run the falls of the Mizen Topsail Braces and Vangs thro' the fixed block at the Qtr deck rail may not work with the kit version at least because there is less Tafferal outside of the rails in which to bring the falls in from the outside.  The book references are in relation to the Resolution model which has Quarter Galleries, and more space to work with.
This is not a problem the Vang falls can either be expended around the lower blocks or  hitched to a cleat on the inner face of the Tafferal.
 
Mizen Topmast Backstay
This was fitted a while back but now is a convenient time to secure with the deadeyes. For this I used 2.5mm Boxwood Deadeyes.
To recap:
The kit arrangement shows two topmast backstays set up with deadeyes hooked into eyebolts just forward of the Quarter Badge.
Lees indicates the use of a stool or a deadeye plate bolted to the ships side.
The ffm (Standing rigging plan) indicates a single backstay for which the addition of a small stool fitted at drift rail height aft of the Quarter badge is required.

I opted for a deadeye plate fixed to the hull forward of the Quarter Badge, a lot less fussy than a mini stool and a little more secure.

A peek thro' the Quarter badge lights. Looks like someone needs to have a sweep up in the Great Cabin.
 
The lantern
Chuck's little beauty was fixed some time ago, but there remained the supporting braces which have now been fitted.


 


B.E.

Tidying up the Foc'sle.
For the past few days I having been trying to sort out the confusion of lines around the Foc'sle.
There are a lot of loose ends now that need securing, and looking ahead a little there is the perennial problem of sufficient belaying points.
I note that the Belaying plan (Plan#3) of the ffm Vol IV shows 10 cleats conveniently placed around the inner bulwark of the bows between the Bowsprit and Cathead, but what is not shown is the Breast hook which fits over the Bowsprit and is bolted to the bow timbers which would preclude cleats in the position shown but presumably they could be fitted to the face or top of the Breast Hook.

The Breast hook can be seen in this shot.
Steel specifically mentions a pin in the breast hook to take the Fore T'Gallant bowlines.
Bowlines are a feature I am thinking of adding even tho' mine is a bare stick model, in this case they are simply hitched to their respective yards before running to belay points.
The Foc'sle is just about tidied up now and the T'gallant Backstays have been rigged.
 In a final crowning to the mastheads the trucks are added.
The photos

Tidying the line ends


Belaying to the Belfry rails is a test of patience, so many lines to snag.


Fore T'gallant backstays on the stools now secured.

Lead of the Fore Tack, something that is causing me some confusion at present, not yet ready to be secured.

Truck at Foremast head

....and at the Mainmast head; Main T'gallant back stays yet to be secured.


Coming together now I think.
 
B.E. 31/01/2017
 

Well,after spending the better part of the day applying a wash to all those gold decorations,I think there is a real improvement to them. The first picture is before & the next three are after applying the wash. They actually look better in person than my cheapo camera shows.
 
Mark
 

 

 

 

small update...
 
funnels are complete, painted and eyelets for the 10 guy wires /per funnel attached.
Two of the base structures still require the lighting windows on the beveled sides.
the resin based buff color for funnels and vents is of "Glasurit", semigloss, called desert sand (Wüstensand)
 
Nils
 

 

Gun rigging is prepared, I can start to install the guns.

Hello Everybody -- I've been silent for over a month.  Work has subsumed me, for the most part, though I have managed some regular time everyday in the boatyard.  And it's been one little detail that has snagged me.   The Drift Rail concludes at the forward end of the Quarterdeck in a Scrolled Hance.  FFM gives a good technique for shaping the scroll, but at 1:64 that technique doesn't really work -- or even matter.  Still I wanted to have something of a scroll.  At last count, I went through 12 different tries, working with and exacto, with a micro gouge (1 mm, which isn't so micro at this scale), with lots of shameful language ("Really now," my delicate flower of a wife would say, "what's going on in there?), and finally with the Dremel and a small round bit.
 
Here are some of my efforts.
 
First, you can see that I cut the outer shape as drawn, then tried to clear out the inside.
 

 
This attempt crumbled so badly I couldn't even get a picture.  Next I glued the boxwood blanks (1/16" thickness) to some scrap, aiming to prevent the crumbling.  This is the first result there:
 

 
The next evolutionary step was to take care of the inside curve first, and then worry about the outside, hoping that I could uphold some structural strength that way.
 
 
 
 
 

 
A few more casualties as I toyed with grain direction, thinking (maybe a bit too much) that if the grain moved diagonally across the scroll rather than horizontally, there would be more strength.  Nice idea, but with no practical effect.
 

 
Finally I came up with some fairly decent curves -- I can't quite call them "scrolls" since the scroll is incomplete:  the reason is that the scraper could not make the curve, and for 2 reasons.  First, as it cut across the grain, the outer edge of the hance crumbled.  Second, the complementary tail section interfered with the cutter itself.  As a rough simulation, I drilled a shallow hole, just enough to create a shadow.
 
And here is the starboard Quarterdeck scroll in place:
 
 

Now, the kit plans don't show anything like this where the rail terminates at the aft edge of the fo'c'sle, though the NMM plans show something like a scroll.  It seems to my eye that the rail needs some sort of flourish as a terminus, and so I set in the same scrolls as on the Quarterdeck.  Things get a bit tight, though:
 
 

 
That one eye bolt is tight up against the scroll, but I still think a line can run through it somewhat freely.
 
And of course, when I invited Mrs W in to see what had induced such unseemly language, she squinted hard and said, "Do you honestly believe anyone will ever notice that?" 
 
 
Next up, revised Cat Heads.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin
 
 

Here are the completed pumps. Caldercraft does not mention them, but they are on the NMM plans for the class. I made them from a square piece of stock, which was filed to octagonal. The handle and the pivot are boxwood reduced to very small thickness. Further details are the copper wire for the fittings and paper bands. I used a styrene rod drilled out for the outlet. 
 
They are just sitting on the deck for photo purposes, that's not their final location. 

Thank Wayne, as well as the "likes".
 
I received my carronades from Cornwall Model Boats. I ordered the 24 pounders with every intention of building Reindeer. Measuring the Caldercraft carronades out with reference to sizes in this NRG article http://www.thenrg.org/resources/articles/The carronade.pdf they are almost perfectly sized to be 32's, not 24's! The bore diameter is dead on and the length is much closer than it is to a 24. Therefore...Reindeer is out. 
 
I was rattling off some names from the list of Cruizer class brigs to my wife, and she stopped me at Sophie. It is her favorite girl's name, and if we had had a daughter it would have been her name. So I am naming the vessel Sophie. Sophie did serve on the American station during the War of 1812 and captured numerous merchant vessels and privateers. She was also involved in the battles of Mobile and Lake Borgne, leading up to the battle of New Orleans, so she does have a nice history. 
 
I re-painted the stern area and made a nameplate, since I was unable to successfully apply the dry transfer letters in the narrow area between the decorative moldings. I wasn't getting even transfer and was losing parts of letters trying to do it that way. 
 
And yes, I know Patrick O'Brian used the name Sophie for the fictitious command of Jack Aubrey in Master and Commander, but there was a real one too!
 
 

Well...I've decided to go a different route with regard to which actual ship within the class I am building. I had wanted to use the nice brass cannon barrels supplied by Caldercraft and build her as Cruizer, but alas they will just not work. When scaled out on the Syren gun carriage and barrel plans, they are nearly 18 pounders; not the 6 pounders Cruizer carried. I just couldn't bring myself to do it. Therefore I have bitten the bullet and ordered carronades from Cornwall Model Boats. The 6 pound bow chasers I'll get from Syren, as I already have the carriages. With that massive change in plans I have now moved forward and added the bow and stern platforms that were commonly found in the class. I still haven't settled completely on a specific ship, but am leaning HMS Reindeer, which is known to have had at least the bow platform, based on it being mentioned in accounts of her battle with the Wasp. Which ships had the stern platform is far less well known and documented.
 
The wheel was installed and rigged prior to installation of the aft platform for access purposes. Both platforms were constructed over a basic support framework and planked with the same maple as the main deck, and then treenailed. 

That's it.
 
She is finished !
After a journey that took more then 3 years she finally reached port.
I wanna thank you all for being my passengers all that time.
Also thanks to Anja for helping me with a lot of things.
 
Sjors
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Lower planking is finished . Final sanding is not complete yet, it is just 220 grit for rough sanding.
Now it is time to free model from upside down position and start on upper planking and wales.

Small update on stern decoration,...

the SPLINTERS..........
 
 
Yet another small update. Planking on the starboard side is almost finished, no more walnut for a while. Just a few remaining strakes on the upper works, but I will leave that for now,I don't want the unguarded tops of the planks to get mashed when I'm working on the port side.
 
I've only given this side of the hull a rudimentary sanding as yet. Still a lot of cleaning up to do, as well as evening up the ends of the planks.
 
Anyway, I'm still happy with the way things worked out, not entirely happy with the kit, but that's another matter.
 
Hmm.... port side looks rather naked...
 
Andy

So, after more then 3 years I can tell you that the rigging is done....
Not the total build because there are a few things that has to be done like.....hammock netting ( yep, still to do ) anchors and lanterns.
But as it goes in the whole build now and then an update.
Don't ask me where all those ropes are going.....I don't know it anymore.
I have done the best I can do with it.
At the end it looks like spaghetti and all the time the hands are in the way.
I had the feeling that tying blocks will never come to an end.
Even at the last drawing I have to make blocks.
I think it is to difficult to show it in the first drawings.....
I try to put all the ropes on there own position but even that was not possible.
The belaying pins are that small that I can not put an hair around it !
I try because you don't see the difference with my grey hair or the grey rope 
But i'm satisfied with it.
Then rest me only one thing and that are pictures.
 
Sjors

Some minor progress. Going slowly, not even steadily!
 
P.s. When I upload my images it's owner and copyright properties get lost ... any reason why that happens???

Nice work greg - looking well and truly battered like she has been sat in a ships graveyard for years.
 
OC.

Thanks Pat.
 
The second last step on the hull base is salt. I have done a salt line on the waterline, as well as from the scuppers and beneath the hawsers and along the centre armour belt. The Starboard side is not done, next is the Port side which I won't get to till next week. Thoughts for improvements?
 
Once that is done back to the airbrush.

Thanks for the commets, the likes, and the ideas. 
After some thought, it's now deconstruction and construction time.  I figure if I'm not going to do it right, then don't do it at all.  In the first picture, you can see where I'm ripping up the deck back aways.  There's also the most inboard strake laying on the beams forward.   I'll redraw, re-cut, and install one strake at a time on each side and follow Gerard's drawing and attempt the "random" bits as to plank length.  I think this will be the best way and definitely interesting from my point of view. 
 

Just for kicks and grins, here's the laser cutting those first planks. 

 
Feel free, as always, to jump in and point out errors or misconceptions.  This is a journey...