Beef Wellington

Post 13
 
With the hull still inverted and secure on its board I decided this was a good point to add the planking nails.
 
10lb monofilament line  provided in the kit was used. This size line has a given diameter of 0.11” (0.279mm)
 A #77 drill is indicated  for use  which has a ø of 0.4572mm. The actual line is close enough to 0.3mm ø
 
 I was somewhat puzzled by this, why use a drill that is almost twice the size of the line required to be fitted.
 I found that a 0.4mm drill was more than sufficient for the task.

0291
Tape was used to mark the frame lines.

0292
A wood strip was used to position the holes top and bottom of the planks.

0294
I used a flexible light behind the hull to reveal the frames.

0295
It is then just a case of dipping in pva and inserting ad nauseum. Can’t really complain as there are only four strakes to do in total.

0297
I don’t think I would have had enough 10lb line to complete a full hull.

0299

0304

0302
A little more fettlin’ before I can  turn the hull the right way up and start removing the centres.
 
 
B.E.
03/03/2023
 
 
 
 
 
 

Post 12
 Picking up on an idea used by Jean-Paul, but one that seems natural to me, I decided to form the two upper wale planks over the existing planks.

0277
The planks were first soaked to give flexibility, and once held in place were given the hairdryer treatment. This way much of the stress was taken out of them.

0278
I used Tamiya tape to protect the existing planks.

0271a

0275
I again fitted the sheer planks first using ca for the bow bend, and pva thereafter. The hull was turned the right way up for the process.
 It is worth checking the frames before gluing; I found several instances where the ca had not fully grabbed the first layer of planks at the top edge.

0274
A side benefit of those little blocks fitted to protect the frames during fairing is that they provide an anchor in a tricky place to hold a clamp during re-gluing.
 
Oh dear,  whilst securing the bow wale on the s/b side, the bow plank 13 (third down) snapped along the grain between the bow rabbet and first frame when I inadvertently pressed too hard.
Unlucky 13 for me, I have already had one breakage, and both sides were re-cuts.

0279
The one small compensation was that the broken plank came away easily. I left the aft one in place.
 
Am I downhearted, you bet, I am thoroughly annoyed at my ineptitude.

0283
Re-fitting the new plank proved quite a trial taking a long session of sanding and dry fitting before it sat easily without stress.
I had already scrapped an earlier one after a fair time having cut it a tad too short to meet the aft plank join.
 
The lower wale planks were attended to next.
 
Starting with the starboard side;
 
Again, I had to do a lot of tweaking to get the bow section (15) to fit. The aft section (16) was also problematic.
 
When tweaked to fit it lay above the joint line of the corresponding plank beneath it, revealing the cheat that belies  the wale as one thicker plank.

0288
I re-cut another plank using a Tamiya tape pattern taken from the hull, which covers up the offending joint.
 
The port side went a little easier.

0285

0286
Above – dry fitting the lower wale planks.
 
Overall, I found the planking trickier than I seem to remember from when doing the Royal Barge.
Perhaps it’s just as well I went for the open frame version.
 
Movin’ onto a final sanding and finishing of the planking.
 
 
B.E.
28/02/2023
 
 
 
 
 

Post 10
Planking begins.
 
The sheer line plank at the bow begins with Plank 17.

0235
As you can see this is the port side and this short section has a downward curve, which at first sight may seem counter-intuitive, but it is correct to keep the line right as it bends around the bow frames.

0237
I use water and heat to perform the bend around a large circumference tube. Not having used Alaskan Cedar in a build I was a little nervous of using heat only in case the strip snapped at the bend point.

0238

0239
Several bending sessions were required to get a stress-free lie around the bow, plus a small twist at the bow end so the plank sat square within the rabbet.

0243
I have re-inserted the balsa spacer blocks to help support the frames during fitting of the planks.

0247
I opted to use ca to glue the first plank, apart from any other consideration it is always tricky to clamp planks around the curve of the bow, and it is useful to hold the plank at the exact level for an instant grab.

0248
Dry fitting the aft plank, this piece needed no adjustment for fit.
The aft section of the sheer plank is a lengthy piece for which I will again use ca, progressing two frames at a time.

0249
At the transom a piece of 1/16th strip was used to allow for the capping rail which sits beneath the transom wings.
 
With first sheer strakes glued into place the hull is again inverted for the next two strakes to be fitted.

0251

0255

0258A
I do seem to have a slight variance in a couple of the frame tops above the sheer planks port and Starboard, towards the stern, but otherwise the application went quite smoothly.
 
The next two planks are likely to prove more of a challenge to get a tight fit against the sheer plank, but at least I now have a plank to work against.
 
 
B.E.
 
14/02/2023
 

Post Nine
 After a short delay back to the lining off.

0207a
This time the tick strips match both sides.

0227
I had a dabble with the tape fully in the knowledge that the pre-spiled planks obviate any need for the process.
As an exercise to gain an appreciation of how Chuck arrives at his end result it is useful, particularly how the aft three and foremost three frames were not initially tick marked, but the run being eyeballed to the stem and Transom.
 
One has to bear in mind that Chuck won’t always be there to pre -spile planks for you.

0228
This I found easier said than done with the tape reluctant to stick at the bow; doesn’t bode well for leisurely sighting and tweaking of the line, but I get the idea.
 
So, I will now move onto the planking…
 

Even though a fully planked model gives more modelling for your money I have made the decision to complete her with open frames, and only plank the top three strakes.
 
This will match the style of the Queen Anne Barge that I completed in 2021.
 
In some ways this is more of a tricky build than a fully planked model, where one starts with the Garboard planks and works up the hull sequentially.  I will be starting at the seventh strake and need to ensure that I use the correct planks at the correct level.

Rustyj Dsc0048 numbered.

Jpr62 HULL3 03 numbered
To this end I have borrowed a couple of photos from the builds by Rusty and Jean-Paul on which to mark the plank numbers.
 
I have started by playing around using card replicates of the planks to give me a feel for the job.

0229

0230
I’m pleased to note that the sheer planks pretty much hit the tick marks for the upper strake.

0231

0232

0233

0234
I have decided to start from the sheer rail with the hull the right way up. Here, the frame tops, stem rabbet, and transom wings provide a guide. (Making allowance for the capping rail that will fit beneath the wings)
 
 
B.E.
11/02/2023
 
 
 

Thank you all for the likes and the kind comments.  Chapman, yes, this print has been quite fascinating to me.  I suspect that it is directly connected to or derived from the “Gilded Ghost” portrait.  While this engraving is often labeled Soleil Royal, there is not enough specifically detailed information to make that connection.  The only detail that seems to hint at this possibility is the figurehead.
 
What is more interesting is the caption note that explains that this is a Levant fleet ship, which would make it more likely a representation of the Royal Louis.  In any case, I like the crossed fish tail ornaments on the upper bulwarks, and I will attempt to incorporate this idea into my decor for the SR 1670 project.
 
This weekend, I painted and installed the upper balcony support pillars:


I definitely think that beefing these up was a good idea.
 
I also finally managed to glue-in the starboard headrail.  Before doing so, I decided to add  a small support that attaches to the middle main wale.  This is a small detail that I have observed on various models and portraits:

I had an extra pair of cathead supports, so I used these to fashion these small supports:



I like the continuity of this small addition, as now all of the ornamental pilasters of the headrails are supported.  It is well in keeping with the spirit of the kitbash.
 
Now, I can prepare the figure carvings that are placed just aft of the headrails, and which bridge the bellflower garland between the main deck guns and the headrails:

Prior to installation, I pad the backs of these carvings so that the carving can seat just above the drift rails:

Little by little, we are getting there.  There is a  continual process of paint-retouches and weathering that is happening simultaneously. Next, I’ll secure the port headrails, so that I can fill-in the intermediary headrail support timbers and begin filling-in the head grating.
 
Thank you for looking in.
 

good evening everyone
 
day 20 1st planking
 
the bow is 1st planked, - absolutely nothing special, but will serve as a good foundation for the 2nd layer, i look forward to many hours of sanding before that happens
 
the stern will be completed in the next day or so
 
 
 

Just a quick update...all of the aft cant cant frames in this step have been completed.  This includes framing the sill for the aft-most port and the frames there.  Then I just completed the remaining few.  Fairing was done on both sides as well.  But I still have to add the treenails to those aft cant frames.  I will do that first before moving forward to the next step.
 

 

 
There are still a few cant frames left but that will be done in the next step...
 
That will require a new jig along the top of the model for alignment and I must make the wing transom as well.
 
More updates to follow soon.   But its getting there.
 

 
 

Headworks (Part 1):
 
The shipyard has not been very active recently, partly due to lack of time, but also trepidation of the fact that I can no longer delay work on the headworks - something that has caused some anxiety if I'm honest given that this is another aspect of the model that is so important to the overall look of the ship (...and especially considering that the TFFM devotes 17 pages to this!).  I had completed the main rail back in 2018 (Yikes!) which are detailed here (Post #513) for reference. 
I tried to follow the guidance and approach described in the TFFM as this will all need to be scratch to replicate the original plans as closely as possible, but did probably simplify some steps.  With the final profile of the bow having been finalized, the position of these can be determined.  This was done by eye in the absence of any definitive measurement, ensuring that the head of the mainrail is perpendicular to the keel and vertical when viewed from the bow.  These were drilled and pinned to hold in position for now.   Together with the standard, the 4 head timbers were rough cut and sized to their respective position, the outer face being cut to the angle formed by the head rail.  The curvature of the head timbers was estimated from the AOTS diagrams, but left a little oversized at this stage (the interior profile has also been ignored for the present and will be cut to final shape later).  The main consideration was to ensure that the position of the bottom of the main rail was determined, and this was done by multiple fine tunings and a sanding stick.

The position and fitting of the lower rail proved to be the more challenging aspect.  The TFFM indicates that it should be straight when viewed from above, and the plan profiles suggest that it should be position midway between the main rail and the upper cheek..  On top of that, it needs to clear the interior hawse hole, and will also need to taper in profile at the bow.  The seats of ease on the Artois class are outboard, and will also clear the lower rail.  I do not know the thickness of this piece, but estimated it should be 2mm thick which seems consistent with the proportions shown and described in TFFM for the Swan class.
 
I started by drawing my own simple scale mini-plan using the measurements of the hawse hole, position of head timbers and length of the lower rail.  This allowed the depth of the slots to be determined on each head timber, at the point mid way between the bottom of the main rail and top of the upper cheek (This will also determine the required final curvature of the head timbers to ensure that the lower rail sits neatly behind the covering boards which will need to be added in the future,

Once these had been roughly determined and cut into the head timbers, the theory and application was proved using some of the kit supplied white metal decorative strips which are very easily bent.  (The kit indicates that these should actually be used for the lower rail which seems to be a very reasonable compromise, but think Jason deserves to appropriately proportioned and profiled wood rail).  The curvature of this metal rail can then be used to determine the curvature of the top of the lower rail that will be cut from wood.  (Note:  The forward head timber has been ignored for now, I will need to recut this piece so it extends higher over the standard, as it is, its not think enough to accommodate the lower rail).  The white metal strip is also very useful because it allows the length of the lower rail to be determined.

A cut first approximation of the lower rail was then cut from some boxwood sheet and temporarily placed in position to again prove the approach.  This proved to be successful, and I was happy with the general profile that resulted.  This looks overly bulky to my eye even though the dimension are appropriate, but I suspect that this will be corrected once it has been profiled.  The next step will be to cut and profile the actual pieces.  This also shows that I will likely need to adjust the hawse bolster to allow the lower rail, and the yet to be fitted eking rail (see last picture, the lower rail does not clear the top of the bolster. Even though there is still much to do in this area, I'm feeling more optimistic with this complex area.

 
 

Headworks (Part 1):
 
The shipyard has not been very active recently, partly due to lack of time, but also trepidation of the fact that I can no longer delay work on the headworks - something that has caused some anxiety if I'm honest given that this is another aspect of the model that is so important to the overall look of the ship (...and especially considering that the TFFM devotes 17 pages to this!).  I had completed the main rail back in 2018 (Yikes!) which are detailed here (Post #513) for reference. 
I tried to follow the guidance and approach described in the TFFM as this will all need to be scratch to replicate the original plans as closely as possible, but did probably simplify some steps.  With the final profile of the bow having been finalized, the position of these can be determined.  This was done by eye in the absence of any definitive measurement, ensuring that the head of the mainrail is perpendicular to the keel and vertical when viewed from the bow.  These were drilled and pinned to hold in position for now.   Together with the standard, the 4 head timbers were rough cut and sized to their respective position, the outer face being cut to the angle formed by the head rail.  The curvature of the head timbers was estimated from the AOTS diagrams, but left a little oversized at this stage (the interior profile has also been ignored for the present and will be cut to final shape later).  The main consideration was to ensure that the position of the bottom of the main rail was determined, and this was done by multiple fine tunings and a sanding stick.

The position and fitting of the lower rail proved to be the more challenging aspect.  The TFFM indicates that it should be straight when viewed from above, and the plan profiles suggest that it should be position midway between the main rail and the upper cheek..  On top of that, it needs to clear the interior hawse hole, and will also need to taper in profile at the bow.  The seats of ease on the Artois class are outboard, and will also clear the lower rail.  I do not know the thickness of this piece, but estimated it should be 2mm thick which seems consistent with the proportions shown and described in TFFM for the Swan class.
 
I started by drawing my own simple scale mini-plan using the measurements of the hawse hole, position of head timbers and length of the lower rail.  This allowed the depth of the slots to be determined on each head timber, at the point mid way between the bottom of the main rail and top of the upper cheek (This will also determine the required final curvature of the head timbers to ensure that the lower rail sits neatly behind the covering boards which will need to be added in the future,

Once these had been roughly determined and cut into the head timbers, the theory and application was proved using some of the kit supplied white metal decorative strips which are very easily bent.  (The kit indicates that these should actually be used for the lower rail which seems to be a very reasonable compromise, but think Jason deserves to appropriately proportioned and profiled wood rail).  The curvature of this metal rail can then be used to determine the curvature of the top of the lower rail that will be cut from wood.  (Note:  The forward head timber has been ignored for now, I will need to recut this piece so it extends higher over the standard, as it is, its not think enough to accommodate the lower rail).  The white metal strip is also very useful because it allows the length of the lower rail to be determined.

A cut first approximation of the lower rail was then cut from some boxwood sheet and temporarily placed in position to again prove the approach.  This proved to be successful, and I was happy with the general profile that resulted.  This looks overly bulky to my eye even though the dimension are appropriate, but I suspect that this will be corrected once it has been profiled.  The next step will be to cut and profile the actual pieces.  This also shows that I will likely need to adjust the hawse bolster to allow the lower rail, and the yet to be fitted eking rail (see last picture, the lower rail does not clear the top of the bolster. Even though there is still much to do in this area, I'm feeling more optimistic with this complex area.

 
 

When all blocks were cut out they were aligned upside down on a flat surface covered with wax paper and glued together. Shaping was done with sanding blocks to match the frame lines. I traced the outline that would be the top of the boat on a scrap piece of maple, cut that with the band saw and glued the boat hull plug to that. I then discovered that by saving the cut off sections I could use those as clamps during the framing process.
 
Next, the keel clamps. The whole hull construction is 1/8" wide thin strips of Basswood. The keel was laminated to the proper thickness, When dry both sides were carefully block sanded. On the upper side where the keel meets the hull wood 1/8" spacer blocks attached.
 
The plug was sprayed with a couple of coats of clear lacquer then waxed so nothing would stick.
 
Assembly was pretty straight forward. I centered the keel and taped it down fore and aft. Starting from the center thin strips, extra long were soaked in water for about 30 seconds. I did some pre-forming around a 1" wood dowel. I inserted the piece between the keel spacers with a small drop of glue and with smaller dowels rolled pressed to the hull and keel then attached the ends on both sides with a couple dabs of glue. Taped it in place with some blue tape, fit up the outer clamps, added another 1/8" spacer on each side of the frame. Repeated same until complete. Planking was done in the usual manner. Cutting hull loose along the sheer line established by the upper strake was pretty easy with a sharp No.11 Xacto blade.
 
More sanding, primer, painting was next. I mixed a warm white with a touch of yellow and deck tan for the hull. Pure white is too bright for a scale model. As in a painting white should be reserved for that super white sparkle reflected by the Sun.

Thank you No Idea for you input and welcome aboard.  I could be wrong and this is my first effort at contructing a rabbet but I thought that the rabbet would follow the line of the two pieces of wood supplied in the kit which gives additional support for the first planking. This I believe is also the bearded line I used these pieces to mark where the rabbet would go. I still need to work out how much material I need to remove (deadwood area ) and I might have to adjust this somewhat depending upon how the first layer of planks lie..Hopfully it will turn out like this.
There  was no seperate stern post on this kit so I removed a section of the plywood and need to make one  as per AOTS Diana.At the top edge of the rabbet is about 1 mm from where the stern post will be and works out is the thickness of the second planking. Hope I am making sense. Best regards Dave 

We’ve caused problems, and solved those and others.   I found out why my deck colours didn’t match - obviously I used the wrong paint!  When I bought the kit I also bought buff colour paint intending to mix with yellow to paint the hull sides.  But then I bought Yellow Ocre for the sides, putting the Buff paint away for future projects.  But then it came time to paint the upper decks and I grabbed the Buff instead of the Deck Tan I’d used on the lower deck.
 
But it all ends well, since my cannon ropes frayed (see cannon below), requiring me to rip out the cannons.  Thankfully the kit has an extra sprue of cannons, and besides I’m replacing the forecastle 12 pounders with vacuum formed 32 pdr cannonades a friend in my model club made for me - so the destruction of a few cannons in the removal process isn’t so bad.  And, since the deck is now scratched up from canon removal I can repaint with the proper Deck Tan paint, clear coat and add my diluted black wash to match the lower deck.
 
My friend above from the Toronto model boat club (I highly recommend joining such clubs) also made me oars for the boats, and gave me better string for the cannons.  See below, note the oar in the boat.  I’ve also made the skid beams from 2.5 mm square styrene strips, to hold the boats. 
 
And a reason for joining clubs is advice when all seems lost.  The starboard (larboard) forecastle deck edge would not meet up with the hull side, no matter my clamps.  The club recommended I used children’s white craft glue to fill the gap.  And it worked perfectly, see below.  I took the opportunity to glue over gaps in the stern gallery and quarterdeck to hull sides.  Once the glue dries I’ll paint all with the Deck Tan and then restring the cannons and get back to it.

Started working on my Snake after focusing on the Granado for a while.

An amazing model, thanks for sharing your progress.  I can understand why this has taken so long!

Thank you Kevin, and Ron.
@ Ron - I don't think Wallace has sufficient gravitas to grace the head of such a fine frigate, besides he's  a very inventive fellow, where do you think I get my ideas from. He's gone off now for a nice bit of Wensleydale.
 
Post Eight
 
Stern and upperworks Framing
The stern area of the model is way ahead even of Sphinx in terms of authenticity.
With this design Chris has saved me a lot of time and effort modifying the stern interior area to create a realistic great cabin and Quarter galleries.

0508

0510

0507
The framed doorway to the Qtr Galleries, if you want this on Sphinx you have to do it yourself.
This stage is mostly click and fit, and the framework rises with almost minimal effort altho’ some of the parts are delicate and require gentle handling.

0501
In this phase parts #48, fillers for the cabin decking, require some shaping in the form of a slight bevel to match the deck camber, a section of frame 18 is removed, using a micro saw, as with the Qtr gallery door openings. – that’s it!

0506

0513

0515
It is almost incredible that building the hull to this stage has taken me only eight days, but progress will slow now as the  less interesting but all important aspect of sanding and fairing beckons.

0517

0514
I think this stage marks the end of the ‘honeymoon’ period of this build. Going forward things will get more complex requiring greater skill levels and attention to finishing.
 
B.E.
18/03/2023
 

good evening everyone
Day 18 1st planking
 
as soon as i left the make up of the hull, i have had to start thinking about things, and this has resulted in some redo's, lol no matter how much fairing you do, there is always more
 
anyway the hull is is about 50% done and although bit messy in places, i have a sound basis  to work on
and yes i am still missing one part number 29 stern post filler, and the one fitted need working on
 
 
 





 

Hi Dave, have fun with the experimentation.  Hope you don't mind me jumping in with a comment on your wood selection dilemma.  The Tanganika supplied with my kit also had terrible grain which prompted me to go down the maple route.  I had sourced maple from Cornwall Model Boats, and the initial supply provided was generally OK, but the edges were rough and did require tidying up - there were also quite a few unacceptable strips.  In retrospect, I did not order enough at that time and underestimated wastage/QA failures, and had to purchase more to finish the decking on the quarterdeck and foc's'l.  Despite purchasing again from CMBs, I had to make multiple purchases as I got some really poor quality wood.  In retrospect I wish I had ordered enough at the start to ensure consistency and quality between the decks.  I also found that the wood provided often wasn't even maple - and can be further confused with the various species (hard maple being desireable, the soft maple having a much more pronounced grain).  That may well have been a covid era problem that is now resolved.

Work continues.   Started on the aft cant frames.
 
The first thing that needed to be done was to add the aft cant frame jig.  This is added the exact same way as the fore cant frame jig.  Glue the small laser cut square under the last cross beam.   Then add the jig.  The jig like all the cross bars are not glued.  They are just taped together.  That works very well.
 
Make sure to line up the jig with your center line thread.  You have the etched reference lines on the cross jigs to do so.   But you will notice I also added the small cant frame strip for our first cant frame.   That is aft cant frame 24. It is the last slot in the jig.  You will need to line up the forward edge with the same mark on your base board plan.  Lining up this jig so your cant frames are even on both sides is very important.  As is making sure all your square frames were perpendicular to the keel and the same height etc, and all follow the center line.  
 
If for any reason you need to tweak this jig or any of the others, I have left some wiggle room.  Do that before taping.  In fact,  if I didnt mention this little tip before,  you can just add a toothpick as a shim on one side to adjust the aft jig until l you are back on the center line and your cant frames all line up with the base board plan.  This is a neat trick you can use with any of the cross bar spacers for the square frames as well.  It works really well to keep you on that center line.  I exaggerated in this photo so you can see how to adjust any of them.
 

Lining up the strip with the baseboard plan below...
 

Then just like the fore cant frames are started working my forward after assembling each cant frame.  They are made in two pieces.  I have added six working my way forward.  But now I will switch directions and start working from the other end of the jig for the next six. More pictures will follow when I get that done.
 
Note how two laser etched lines on that last cant frame 24 face aft.   Shown in red. That is important because we will need those to line up our some pieces later.
 
Also not how the first aft cant frame on the jig I added,  that same number 24...you have to make sure you place it in the correct deadwood slot. 

This is what the hull looks like at the moment.  I will work on the remaining aft cant frames this weekend.  Im getting close to completing all the hull framing.  It wont be long now.
 

 

To finish up the bow timbers I had two more to go.  The first of those was done exactly like the previous three.  But the last one is a bit different.  The filler that closes the gap is just a little bit different.
 
Step one is the same.   Shape the angle that will fit against the cant frame.  No biggie there.  There is a laser reference line for that just like the others.  But that is the only reference line laser etched.
 
Once shaped to fit against the cant frame,  test it on the model.  It should fir pretty good.   Then you need to take a sharp pencil and draw the next reference line yourself.  Just trace the shape of the cant frame edge onto to the filler as shown.  This will be your outboard hull reference.  Use that line and bevel just as you did in step two for the previous bow timbers.
 

 
It will look like this when you bevel and clean it up with a sanding stick.
 

You dont have to bevel the inboard edge.  We will need to trace that in pencil against the cant frame too.  But that is kind of tricky at this stage.  Once you take a look inside there you will understand.  There really isnt much to bevel inboard actually.   It is best to just leave the inboard side as is until after we remove all of the jigs and fair the inboard side later.  That will be done after planking.
 
But now you can go ahead and fair the outside bow timbers.  Fair them into the cant frames nicely.  Use a long batten to check how true and smooth the run of planks will be.  You dont want any dips.   Dont be afraid to really sand it good with coarse sandpaper first and then switch to a finer grit on your last pass.
 
You will notice that the bow timbers are too high and the tops should be trimmed down to match the sheer.   That can be done after fairing outboard.  Almost done fairing outboard below.  The tops of the bow timbers have been trimmed down as well.
 

How do you know where to trim down the head timbers?  Well you could measure up from your build board using the plans.  But I decided to take some considerable time to create a template.  Its quite an extensive template actually.   Basically its an expansion drawing to scale that shows every last detail of the outboard hull fittings.   
 
This includes the run of the planks at the bow and all ports....swivel stocks...scuppers and fixed blocks and channels with deadeyes....etc.
 
The bottom of this helpful template represents the top edge of the upper wales.  This is in fact how we will transfer the correct lines for the wales later.   But you can also use it to check the positions of all ports and also trim down the bow timbers to the sheer.  Just make sure you put it on both sides of the hull and have them even.
 
This template lines up at the bow based on the cheeks.  You can see on the plans how the upper cheek sits right on top of the upper wales and then transitions onto the stem.  You want to line up the cheek on the template where it will transition onto the stem.  This is important because you want to have everything line up when we work on the hawse holes and bolsters and headrails.
 
It will make locating everything quite easy I think.  I dont believe any other kit or even monograph has such a template and expansion drawing like this.  I thought I would try something new.
 
Time to start the aft cant frames...yippie!!!
 

Here is a quick look at the template.  When flat the expansion clearly shows the gentle "S" curve at the bow for planking run. I folks have a hard time getting this right so this should be a life-saver.  In fact, with all the planks at the bow now shown with their shape and taper this leaves no guesswork at all.  When the time comes we will transfer those planking lines to the frames.  No tick strips needed.   Lining off will be much easier.
 

 
 

Thanks to all for the likes and for continuing to look in.
 
A little more sanding was require to achieve a fair run before I started planking. Two planks each side fitted and I noticed that bulkhead 11 wasn’t seated correctly in the keel so they had to come off again. Unfortunately as I was trying to correct one mistake I made another and the transom broke away. I was able to CA the transom back, temporarily reinforced with strips of boxwood either side until there were sufficient planks in place to hold it firmly.
After these trials, planking has gone quite well. I have used a dab of CA at the prow and then sparingly applied PVA on the edges of each plank. I also brushed dilute PVA into the joints.. I applied PVA to BH11 and the transom and only to the other bulkheads where necessary to maintain the line.
Three more strips each side should complete.
 
David




 

Cheers Rusty 👍
 
Chapter Seven
 
 Deck fitting.
My initial attempt at dry fitting indicated a mismatch between the two deck halves just shy of 1mm.

0465

0464
This was quite disconcerting as I note that Kevin reported in his log -  the main deck went down without any issues -  where have I gone wrong, thinks I.😬
The retaining slots were cleaned using an emery board, close attention paid to the seating– but the mismatch remained.

0433
The port side half aligned with the deck beams but the starboard side alignment remained stubbornly a fraction out.

0468
After a lot of faffing around I decided to tweak the slots of the starboard side, taking a sliver off the aft edge of the slots which allowed to section to move forward to align the cut-outs. The depth of the slots  around the bow area was also deepened by a sliver which allowed the centre lines to meet without overlap.

0472
The deck halves now sit down nicely, with the masts and the all-important riding bitts slotting into place.

0479

0480

0484
Happy with the deck fit I can now remove the deck section to reveal the lower deck and Orlop ladderway.
 
In fitting the deck I perceived that there is a potential weak area around the Mainmast where there is a lack of deck support. I added a beam just aft of the Mainmast to span the gap to provide this.
 
Satisfied with the result I can now move onto fitting the deck.
 
Gluing decks can be a fraught exercise, particularly on a deck of this size, where the glue can start to go off before the deck is in place. This is exacerbated if there is any last-minute fumbling in locating the deck.
 
Certainly in this case, I didn’t think it necessary to glue both deck halves at the same time. Separate halves will reduce the time before glue contact is made.

0488
I glued the Port side first using slightly diluted pva brushed onto the deck beams, the starboard side slipped into place and the deck weighted.

0489

0490

0494
Job done, and moving on…
 
B.E.
17/03/2023
 
 
 
 

Chapter Six
 
Modifying the Gundeck
The Gundeck will remain largely intact, but Chris has been kind enough to provide the interesting little feature of the ladderway down to the Orlop.
This will be hidden under the standard arrangement but I want to reveal it. It adds to the illusion of a fully fitted out model.
My idea is to remove that section of the deck between the Fore hatch and the Riding Bitts, but I will need to add carlings.

0444
A template is used to check exactly where and what may be seen.

0449
The Riding Bitt standards are test fitted as these will have a direct bearing on where the carlings are placed.
 
The other thing to consider is avoiding opened up spaces looking like a standard feature.
In the case of the ladderway to the Orlop if I leave a minimal square opening in the Gundeck above, to allow it to be seen, that could look like another hatchway opening.

0450
To counter this the unplanked area across the deck is extended and will allow a greater view of the lower deck in this area.

0478
The effect is completed by representations of the carlings and ledges.

0477
3mm x 2.5mm pearwood square stock was used for the carlings, and 2 x2mm for the Ledges.
 
 
B.E.
16/03/2023
 
 
 

Thank you Ron, Kevin, Marc, and Capt. Birdseye.
 
Chapter five
Framing the Gunports.
This is an ingenious method devised by Chris that gives a nod to the Plank on Frame method and removes all that testy business of cutting ports into a hull.
The longitudinal stringers that form the top and bottom of the gunports are now fitted.

0454
I fitted the rear gunport strips from the stern forward, I found it easier to locate the two aftermost slots fully into the  bulkheads.

0452
These are followed by vertical risers that complete the port framing. They are position specific so care has to be taken in their fitting.

0453
The parts fit together beautifully, and at this stage of the build it is rather like doing a 3-d jigsaw puzzle, but without the puzzle element.

0457
I’m loving the look of her even at this stage, I think you will all agree she is an impressive sight.
Chris must be well pleased with the fruits of his labour.
 
The next stage is fitting the gundeck, but at this point I am going ‘off piste’, as I have some modifications to work out given the ‘Navy Board’ style of my build.
 
B.E.
15/03/2023
 

Chapter Four
What lies beneath.
Before the Upper (gundeck) is fitted I need to establish what may be seen below on the Lower deck.
This is relevant on my build as the deck will be open to maximum view.
Planking and detail provision is made for the Lower deck between the Fore hatchway and the Mainmast, but aft of the Mainmast there are also ladderways and hatches down to the lower deck which just may be visible should I choose to leave the gratings off the hatchways.

0427
Template taken from the plans for the section aft of the Mainmast.

0430

0431

0428

0429
These additional areas of the lower deck are planked using cannibalised maple deck sections left over from my Sphinx build, and I knocked up grating sets that are pretty much the same as the Gundeck arrangement.

0433

0434

0435
Temporary rough fitting of the gundeck gives a sense of what may be glimpsed on the lower deck.
This will I hope give the illusion of a fitted out Lower deck limited as the view will probably be.
 
B.E.
13/03/2023

The supplied Maple strips for the Deck turns out to be Tanganyka and not maple as listed which I have not used before so thought I would give it a try on the lower deck which will mostly not be seen. This turned out to not be a great success. Firstly  I  used permanent marker for staining the edges of the tanganyka strips which worked great on Walnut for simulating calking between the planks . I then used 2 parts shelac 1 part alcohol to seal the wood . Unfortunately not only has the ink leached into the grain but I am not sure I like the fleck in the grain of the tanganyka  to start with which is totally out of scale too.
Here are a couple of photos of the mess.


Conclusion. First off get rid of the Tanganyka . Second try and source some 1mm x 4 mm Maple strips. Not so easy when ready made here in the uk. I have never used maple before but looking at samples  of local suppliers  the grain looks to be too large  for 1:64 however a few modellers have used this in the past . Alternatively I could easily source some 1mm thick x 100mm wide sheets and cut them myself on a Proxxon FET saw but  I think there could be a lot of waste 
               Then there is the other problem of using either the permenant marker and shellac together or perhaps its the mixing with alcohol. Perhaps I should return to using sand and sealer instead of shellac or try something else to simulate the calking. I am inclined to go back to what has for me been tried and tested and use walnut for the decking which is readily available and always looks good when sand and sealer is used in combination with the permenant marker. I have also used charcoal or pencil lead but do not think it makes as good a job as the marker pen. 
          No doubt I will need to carry out more tests before on the decking before I finally decide which is the best coarse of action.