Captain Al

GJ..., the way you put it makes 100% sense.  We're it not for some ambiguity issues I would easily see why you'd advise not to use a deadeye if it called for a clump block.  But consider this:  A.L. has also listed regular blocks (doubles as I recall) as "frames."  That one took me a few hours to sort out before I realized I was better off using the Spanish parts list.  Then there's the problem that while they "call for" both deadeyes and clump blocks, clump blocks is but one of many different ways they refer to a block, be it single, double, and now, using your logic, a triple.  There are no triple blocks in the kit.  I think the safest thing now for me is to assume that when they say "clump blocks" they are referring simply to a block (with sheaves) and not to a deadeye.  It may be that the so called "clump" is a single (as in your diagram), a double, or a triple (but that would probably not be the case or they'd really be amiss in not supplying any).  I am going to have to get better at following the rigging plans to determine exactly what type of block to use and how many sheaves it should have.  Going to the plans should make it clear though whether it should be a deadeye or a block.  This discussion has enlightened me in several ways, so thank you all again.

GJ..., the way you put it makes 100% sense.  We're it not for some ambiguity issues I would easily see why you'd advise not to use a deadeye if it called for a clump block.  But consider this:  A.L. has also listed regular blocks (doubles as I recall) as "frames."  That one took me a few hours to sort out before I realized I was better off using the Spanish parts list.  Then there's the problem that while they "call for" both deadeyes and clump blocks, clump blocks is but one of many different ways they refer to a block, be it single, double, and now, using your logic, a triple.  There are no triple blocks in the kit.  I think the safest thing now for me is to assume that when they say "clump blocks" they are referring simply to a block (with sheaves) and not to a deadeye.  It may be that the so called "clump" is a single (as in your diagram), a double, or a triple (but that would probably not be the case or they'd really be amiss in not supplying any).  I am going to have to get better at following the rigging plans to determine exactly what type of block to use and how many sheaves it should have.  Going to the plans should make it clear though whether it should be a deadeye or a block.  This discussion has enlightened me in several ways, so thank you all again.

Incredible work Danny.  Truly inspirational.  So glad to see you back at work and healthy. 

You are very complimentary.  At this point in my build I need all the encouragement I can get cause I've become somewhat frustrated.  I'm at the point where reading diagrams and plans is important and I'm not all that good at it.
 
I agree with your choice of chocks.  I wish I had a lathe.  Maybe I'll invest in tools instead of kits in the future and do some scratch building.
 
I do have McKay and its been helpful in some areas, not so much in others. 

Ha Ha, I like the one on the far right -- cause that's all I was able to accomplish.  Wish I had a lathe.  Did you have your power equipment before you started kit building or bought them for the project?  If I ever finish my Bounty I'm going to make the decision to either invest in another kit or put the $$ towards some fancy equipment and try scratch building.  It seems like a lot of the stuff I've had to do to make my kit work was kind of scratch building, so why not scratch from scratch.  Only trouble is, I'm really poor at reading plans.  Anyway, to be serious, I like the last one you did also.  Not too fancy like you said and definitely the right color.
 
I hear what your saying about the instructions dropping off.  Ridiculous.  Just when you need them the most.  Here's a trick I learned today (better late than never), learn Spanish.  Then you won't have to rely on some bizarre translations into English.  It took me days of wondering and asking others if some blocks (#s 331 and 417s) were single or double cause they appear different in photos and drawings.   In the English parts list they were both just called "blocks."  I finally looked at the Spanish list and there they are called "cuadernales" as opposed to "motones"/   My espanol is good enough to surmise what "cuad" means.  I already made up 10 single blocks on eyebolts before I really questioned what was the right one, so now, hopefully I can use those singles somewhere else.
 
You and I are in the same time zone.  I live in No. Cal near Sacramento.  What part of So. Cal are you from?

OMG -- I just tuned into your build!  You mentioned my build log early on, so thanks for checking it out....but you are putting me to shame.  As a first timer, with this same AL kit, I was really over my head.  But you seem to have a great knack and eye for this.  There aren't many suggestions I can make; just keep doing what you're doing.  I think I may put aside my build and wait til you catch up so I can ask you questions in real time.  I'm at the point of finishing up all the main deck features, including putting blocks around the mast holes and I'm finding it almost impossible to distinguish (from plans, instructions, parts list and photos) one type and size block from another.  Wait, this isn't my build, its your's, so I'll just say it again -- great start and keep on posting.

Moving right along.  Some photos of where my Bounty stands after a year's work.  Some of the deck ornaments above and below are not yet glued in place.  I'll be completing all the deck stuff and adding a few more pieces down below before I start on building masts.  So enjoy and comment away.

Moving right along.  Some photos of where my Bounty stands after a year's work.  Some of the deck ornaments above and below are not yet glued in place.  I'll be completing all the deck stuff and adding a few more pieces down below before I start on building masts.  So enjoy and comment away.

Hey Mike,  things are looking great.  I know how much you're enjoying it. 

Well thank you all for the input.  I think its better to know how such a distasteful word came into being than just slough it off and not be able to discuss it.  We're all in agreement I guess that while we find the word distasteful and wouldn't use it ourselves, discussing its origins does not make the discussion itself distasteful and contemptuous.

Well thank you all for the input.  I think its better to know how such a distasteful word came into being than just slough it off and not be able to discuss it.  We're all in agreement I guess that while we find the word distasteful and wouldn't use it ourselves, discussing its origins does not make the discussion itself distasteful and contemptuous.

Tom, thank you for that idea.  It may even still work on mine.  But its now in my notebook of ideas and techniques.  Thanks.
 
I also would note to Jan, that I am in total agreement.....no in depth analysis of the term is needed, and it goes without saying that it was contemptuous and in keeping with the times.  My curiosity stemmed from the fact that Artesiana Latina continues to use the term.  I would write to them but I've tried on various occasions on different issues and have never received a reply.

This is a very interesting topic to me today because I am just finishing the build of the main capstan on my Bounty and I've had a couple  questions in mind to throw out.  First, in this politically correct world we live in (and in this case rightly so), how in H does the kit manufacturer get away with calling the end pieces "niggerheads" and where did that term originate from?  Second question is what are the square holes in both these "niggerheads" and in the barrel of the windlass used for?  I'm guessing that on a vertical windlass spokes would be inserted in order for crew to operate/turn the thing.  But if this is so, why have I seen no kits, including mine (by A.L. and pretty detailed) that show the windlass or capstan with these spokes in place?  I reckon the same might be how the horizontal windlass was turned, with the spokes inserted into the "niggerhead."  But in that case only two crewmen could stand alongside and turn the thing.  The square holes on the surface of the barrel are even more puzzling.  I see in a picture above that pegs might be put in them to keep the rode isolated to a section of the barrel.  Is that the purpose and is it the only purpose?  Finally, how does a model builder get these tiny square holes into the piece?  In my case, for the barrel holes, I resorted to drilling small round holes in the lining before gluing the liners to the barrel.  I painted the barrel part black to emphasize the hole.  I did the same to the "niggerheads."  But I haven't figured out yet what I'll do on the smaller vertical capstan where the holes are not in the barrel but above it.  I may resort to just penciling in square holes and varnishing over it.  Any answers mates?

Moving right along.  Some photos of where my Bounty stands after a year's work.  Some of the deck ornaments above and below are not yet glued in place.  I'll be completing all the deck stuff and adding a few more pieces down below before I start on building masts.  So enjoy and comment away.

Moving right along.  Some photos of where my Bounty stands after a year's work.  Some of the deck ornaments above and below are not yet glued in place.  I'll be completing all the deck stuff and adding a few more pieces down below before I start on building masts.  So enjoy and comment away.

Moving right along.  Some photos of where my Bounty stands after a year's work.  Some of the deck ornaments above and below are not yet glued in place.  I'll be completing all the deck stuff and adding a few more pieces down below before I start on building masts.  So enjoy and comment away.

Thanks Mike. And your encouragement has helped a ton.

Well, just to show that my time isn't totally wasted in theoretical mish mash, I will describe my progress and post photos as well.
 
The last major post on my build log saw me complete the lower deck cabin and just start work on the stairway and the breadfruit plants. I was unsure whether to put some greenery into the pots as Cannon Fodder had done. I tried several different ideas and none worked well and all of them were too much work for too little payback. So I opted for the pre Tahiti Bounty. But to give the model a little more umph and authenticity I added rope handles to the buckets. This was a good learning experience in the use of a needle and thread and making tiny knots. My wife taught me everything I now know.
 
Next I went for the stair way. The only difficulty I encountered here was getting the stringers to pop out of their template. The laser cuts didn't go all the way through. The tips of two out of the ten broke off. I was able to repair one with CA glue but the other was a goner. Into the scrap heap. Thinking I would need to make one of my own, I pondered this until, lo and behold I discovered that only 4 stairs (and therefore 8 stringers) are needed. So I now have an extra stringer. Having built the little stair case I thought that it had very little gluing surface to it, so I added a footer which would glue directly to the deck. Then I thought about building a railing and/or bannister as well cause I thought there was no way the real ship would not have had one. I experimented with different size dowels and square timber for the stanchions but I could not find anything I could build with my current array of drill bits -- either too small or too large. So I opted to use the deadeyes that are supplied. For the rope I found my old sailing ditty bag full of odds and ends of waxed twine and assorted needles. Good find. The result of my work can be found on the following pictures. I still struggle to put captions and text on the pictures, so I resort to all the pictures at the end of the post.

A big thank you again Danny.  I'm seeing the whole thing clearly now.  I'll have no problem adding these wales.  Today I added the 3rd basswood plank below deck level on which the channels will sit.  I might add one more plank below that.  The interesting thing about the wales is that the aft portion (of the open side) is already on and, following A.L.'s picture, I cut it off at frame 38 (second to last frame aft).  Now that I'm positioning the channels and seeing where the chains will attach to I can see that these wales should have extended one more frame.  There is not enough wale to attach the forward most chain.  So I need to extend these by 40 mm.  The picture shows a mock-up of where this aft channel will go.

The last six months have not been wasted.  Just haven't had time I guess to update this log.  So I will skip all the gory details of how I've managed to get to where I am today and just post some pictures.  All I'll say is thanks to Mike D. for his almost daily support and advice without whom this would not be possible.  Mike says I'm an anorak.  In the context I have taken that as a compliment.

A big thank you again Danny.  I'm seeing the whole thing clearly now.  I'll have no problem adding these wales.  Today I added the 3rd basswood plank below deck level on which the channels will sit.  I might add one more plank below that.  The interesting thing about the wales is that the aft portion (of the open side) is already on and, following A.L.'s picture, I cut it off at frame 38 (second to last frame aft).  Now that I'm positioning the channels and seeing where the chains will attach to I can see that these wales should have extended one more frame.  There is not enough wale to attach the forward most chain.  So I need to extend these by 40 mm.  The picture shows a mock-up of where this aft channel will go.

The last six months have not been wasted.  Just haven't had time I guess to update this log.  So I will skip all the gory details of how I've managed to get to where I am today and just post some pictures.  All I'll say is thanks to Mike D. for his almost daily support and advice without whom this would not be possible.  Mike says I'm an anorak.  In the context I have taken that as a compliment.

The last six months have not been wasted.  Just haven't had time I guess to update this log.  So I will skip all the gory details of how I've managed to get to where I am today and just post some pictures.  All I'll say is thanks to Mike D. for his almost daily support and advice without whom this would not be possible.  Mike says I'm an anorak.  In the context I have taken that as a compliment.

The last six months have not been wasted.  Just haven't had time I guess to update this log.  So I will skip all the gory details of how I've managed to get to where I am today and just post some pictures.  All I'll say is thanks to Mike D. for his almost daily support and advice without whom this would not be possible.  Mike says I'm an anorak.  In the context I have taken that as a compliment.

The last six months have not been wasted.  Just haven't had time I guess to update this log.  So I will skip all the gory details of how I've managed to get to where I am today and just post some pictures.  All I'll say is thanks to Mike D. for his almost daily support and advice without whom this would not be possible.  Mike says I'm an anorak.  In the context I have taken that as a compliment.