themadchemist

Build log part 59
 
 
completed and fitted now the ladderway hatch stanchions with rails for forecastle- quaterdeck and maindeck, put some safty chains on as well.
 
Now the fore mast rigging can proceed
 
My workdesk .....(last two pics with all Tools for rigging )
 
 
Nils

Build log part 57
 
 
have attached the burton pedants of the main top, which take the jeers blocks tackle of the lower mainyard later when the yards are made. Have to rig all the lines that go to between  tops and lower mast caps first, before the caps and topmast parts are (dry)- fitted
 
I`m showing here some of my ladderway hatch openings, not doing them too narrow, so a  mediun sized Crew member can enter up and  down in upright Position giving attemntion, but without bumping his head.
 
These Swan Class vessels are rather small and the deckbeams therefore quite low, but I did my best to provide Standing height (without hats) on all decks, at least between the deckbeams, based on the contures of the modified Amati plan Frames.
 
Will have to do the ladderway hatch stachions I have forgotten to place, now before I move on, Need to look for a good solution. (I saw some inspirations here at MSW already)
 
 
Nils

Thank to you Martin and Piet,
 
nice appreciated arguments...
 
I think both of you found the right arguments for any misalignment in the deadeyes row. Yes ist a workship and so is the retensioning from time to time probably a regular process in the deckwork. This hopefuly may ease the objections fellow modelers may have had with their upper deadeye rows
 
Nils

Build log part 56
 
 
 
have been busy doing the lower shrouds for mizzen and main, as well as their stays.
The ratlines will be done later on. In order to get the right Tension to the shrouds is was unfortunately not possible to Keep the shroud deadeyes 100 % in horizontal line.
But I`m very happy that the alignment angles of shrouds and chainplates correspond very well to the measures I had taken with help of a dummy mast and and a string, like shown earier in this log (Kester would say "a sigh of relief" was brought out)
 
The Standing rigging so far is quite tight and the masts are in alignment. Shall move on to the foremast next.
 
I fitted some wedge protectors to the bow rail contact area of the main stay. The wooden "mouses" for the stay slings are made from bamboo rod

Build log part 55
 
 
 
 
Here a Little status update.....
 
Those trestletree parts with their Slim dimensions looked extreme fragile to me, so I decided, for strength reasons to do them in Bamboo as well (are blackened anyhow afterwards).
 
After receiving the new rigging book the foremast bits have been equiped with cheekwise double-roller chucks to each post (They take the foremast lines for  jeers, clue, and Sheets.
The mast parts now are ready for attaching the appropriate blocks, shall start with the Standing rigging soon
 
Question to fellow modellers....
 
Lennarth Petersson`s very detailed book " Rigging Period Ship Models" Shows 4 sails over the frigate`s bowsprit and jib-boom
- fore staysail
- fore topmast staysail
- jib (sail)
- flying jib (sail)
Who knows and please would kindly tell me if  all 4 of These sails on a frigate apply for the Swan Class Sloops as well or perhaps less sails...
Many thanks....
 
Nils
 
 
 
 
 

Deadeye tackle on the mizzenmast shrouds
 
 
its the first time I`m making use of deadeyes instead of turnbuckle shroud spanners. Having to look for the right thread diam. in relation to the deadeye sheaveholes, so the rearside counterknot at the beginning  does not rush through the the predrilled hole when tightening the tackle.
 
The deadeye spacing distance is made repeatable by using spacer two easy removeable clamps after the zeising is put on the upper deadeye shroud cords
 
 
Nils
 
 
 
 
 
 

it also becomes more fun and for me relaxing. The slow process of fitting planks is one that draws me into "the zone" you know when you look at the clock and go, WOW, where did that all that time go. I've actually gotten so engrossed that when I saw the sun coming through the windows was my first indicator that I'd worked through the night.  
 
For a beautiful single planked hull from a first timer, just check out Randy's Florencia, Its a beauty. (tmc says as he looks at the SF1 kit on the shelve).
You just gotta love a Galleon.
 
It's funny Randy's talking about rigging, because it was his and Robbyn's issues with their SF2 kits which caused me to slow way down and start pouring into research of the Gaff rig. Randy is right, as big as the learning curve is on planking, rigging may be even bigger. But that's not to intimidate, that's the challenge of this hobby. If it was easy everyone would be doing it.

Off and running on the starboard side.
 
One thing for anyone doing planking for the first time.  After you do 6 or 7 planks, it get easier and faster, and less intimidating.

Looks like a good start John and that sentiment is true for everything… in life and model boat building…. practice makes it less daunting and easier.
 
Wait til you get to rigging      

Good looking chute.  Is that where Santa will come out?
 
Bob

thanks to you all for the good word and the likes.   I've been hit by a few  'waves'.......but not bad enough that it would stop me,  by any stretch of imagination     I'm really not that far in finishing the mods to the hull.......pretty soon,  I can start treating it as a normal build  {if there is such a thing) 
 
the mod goes on with refining the chute........can't do too much right now,  because there is still the filler work to the transom.  here,  the edges are somewhat rounded off.
 

 

 
with the deck in place......this will be the size of the chute.
 

 
the stern bulwark is put back in place at this time.
 

 

 
for that minor short coming along the transom with the deck,  I decided to cut both deck halves even to one another,  and add in a strip of square stock,  to fill it in.
 

 
the starboard side platform is cemented in place at this time
 

 
when it was dry,  the port side was installed
 

 
while I was waiting.......I did the filler work on the transom.   most of this will be sanded off
 

 
any gaps in the deck platform got some filler,  especially the seam down the middle.  again,  most of this will be sanded off
 

 
I need to run a few errands with the admiral..........when I get back,  it out to the garage.  I don't want to sand this in the house.  perhaps I can do some of the hull work while I'm out there      pictures later........if I survive!

This is what I was trying to explain in post #75. It's hard to put into words...
 
You want the hull where it is in contact with the keel flat. By flat I mean perpendicular to the keel. For example, at the stem you have curvature in the vertical axis but the hull/keel contact patch is flat at 90 degrees off the keels vertical. Hope this makes sense.
You also want this flat surface on the hull the width of the keel, actually minus 0.5mm per side is best as to form the rabbet in which the second planking can fit.
I achieved this by taping a full sheet of 100 grit paper to a flat table and by running the hull, while holding it level, back and forth you sand flat to width. Now at the stern you don't need to remove anything as its already too wide. To sand the stem/hull junction into the hull I used the same method by rolling the stem from where it meets the keel to its top across the sandpaper. making sure to keep the boat perpendicular level. This was slow tedious sanding.
 
See post #403 to 408/9 for pictures of what I'm trying to explain.
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/997-swift-by-themadchemist-al-150-the-dock-side-of-the-moon-pink-floyd-custom-build/page-27
 
Once the flat patch is wide enough the full length of the keel and stem I marked the keel edges with with a pencil onto the hulls flat patch. This gave me how much material Had to be removed, which I think is your question. I found you dont know this until the junction is flatted to accept the keel/stem. You can see I scarf jointed and put it all on as one piece, that is the keel and stem.
 
For the removal of the excess (outside the lines) I used scrapers. The shmoo/ogee scraper at the stem and forward portion and the flat ones back at the skeg/stern. Like you stated on sanding, just keep shaping and fitting the keel until it looks right. If you dont have scrapers, the single flat razor blades work well for the flats. For the concave curvature up front I'd use a 5/8"ish dowel with 100 grit paper glued to get that garboard strake curvature into the keel, It goes from vertical at the stern to horizontal at he stem which forms that curvature in the twist section. For the heavy removal 100 grit is fine then when you reach the keel line switch progress to lighter grits as the shape develops.
 
The inner stem curvature probably wont fit the hull shape exactly and once you have the flat pad for it to ride you can fit the inner keel by filing out the stem until its snug. The best way to figure out the hull curvature is with a pin contour gauge. and then transfer that to the stem inner curve.
 
Post 443 shows the pin contour gauge being used to make the stern post
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/997-swift-by-themadchemist-al-150-the-dock-side-of-the-moon-pink-floyd-custom-build/page-30
 
My stem/keel glue up is at post #471 if your interested.
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/997-swift-by-themadchemist-al-150-the-dock-side-of-the-moon-pink-floyd-custom-build/page-32
 
I cut my own cherry stem and keel as I saw the mahogany stem fit poorly and I also planned on adding a figurehead. I deviate from the swift plans early on and my log is a mess of chatter but I tried to illustrate some of the methods I've learned and developed while bashing my Swift into something completely not a pilot boat. Surprisingly my study of pilot boats has caused me to want to build another without the customized direction.
 
Here some reading for you if interested 
Its Pilots: Pilot schooners of North America and Great Britain by Cunliffe. The google version isn't complete but there's enough of it there. Its on my list of book purchases in the future.
http://books.google.com/books?id=VNsGi3nmuaQC&pg=PA37&source=gbs_toc_r&cad=4#v=onepage&q&f=false
 
One last thing, I placed the bulwarks first before the stem as it will also need flattening on the portion where the stem sits, just under the bowsprit hole. You also asked how important is the first planking evenness to the quality of the second. I'd say it is Everything. The 2nd can only ever be as good as its foundation. One reason there is so much chatter in my build log is that I was stalling until I had her exactly as i wanted before 2nd planking.
Heed Bug's advise, but not just with sanding. Patience is the key to everything. Bug is spot on about resisting switching sandpaper once the 2nd planking's on. I'd not use more then 220 on it as its so thin. and 1000 gives it a really nice polish 
 
Also know, everything I pass to you was given to me by another generous MSW member, Its all about helping each other here
The Spice Must Flow!

Thanks Keith, those pictures are very illuminating.
 
I'm considering just going without sails, just need to figure out what the running rigging should look like for static display without sails.  I've never been looking forward to the sails, just because the stitching is something that I don't think I can do in any way that would look decent at all (the long running stitches every 1/2" or so for the entire sail surface area), and because of the 'looks' thing as well. 

some illustrations of lacing if you decide on that, I agree that on a vessel the size of Carmen hoops would be preferred though.
 
Here are a few differing illustrations, first with 2 methods


and expanded view



and a 3rd double wrap

 
Hoop attachment, for future reference.


These should give you some ideas, I hope. One of the reasons I've slowed WAY down on the DSotM build is that I'm learning how it all works before progressing.
Order of installation on rigging can quickly paint yourself in the corner. Your finding that out the hard way, but there is nothing like trial by fire to learn.
A lot depend on if you want a kit made like is pictured on the box or one outfitted as they really were.
 
The kits simulate LOTS of things and leave out even more. This is where it becomes the builders decision how detailed to go. I'm a detail junky, where your approach on this kit was to finish it based on kit materials. 2 completely differing Philosophies. You are probably seeing why so many scratch build rather then try to figure out what the kit skimped on.

Sails might be a bit problematic right now since the masts are already in and the standing rigging is set up. The sails would be attached to hoops that fit around the masts. Those hoops really need to be on the mast before it is stepped.
 
The better order of masting and rigging would to make hoops and stitch them to the completed sails, then lace the sails to the gaffs and booms, then fit the hoops over the masthead, then attach the crosstrees etc and step the masts and then the standing rigging. The gaffs and booms would be pre rigged with halyard and sheet blocks so that they could rigged once the standing rigging is set up.
 
That said, you could try and use brass split rings for the hoops and open the rings slightly to get them around the masts and then squeeze them closed so they do not look like they are split rings.
 
Russ

Main mast backstay is done, which completes the standing rigging.
 
I can build the booms and gaffs now, but after that I will be at the point where I need to decide what I'm going to do with the sails.  Just the thought of hand-stitching them has me ready to quit (I do not have a sewing machine before you ask).  I know I've read a few things about people using pencils or other ways of 'faking' the stitching, just need to go find some of those now and read up on them again now that I'm nearing that point.
 
Here she is with all the standing rigging.
 


 
And bow on, got the masts pretty close.
 

Pictures to go along with the previous post.
 
I did my first rope stropped block.  Fairly happy with it.
 

 
The offending line.  Is it the topmast shroud?
 

 
And here is all I have to go off of in the instructions:
 

 
Here is what I did, for better or worse.
 

 
And the deck attachments.
 

 
Now I get to do another one just like this for the main mast.
 
Russ - see that you replied while I was typing this.  Thanks!
 
So is this a 'shifting backstay', or is that just the name for the deck attachment method?  It does make sense to me that it would be two separate ropes, just for ease of replacement if nothing else.

you know Jesse, sailors didn't have serving machines and they managed.
I noticed the clothes pin trick in an earlier pic and thought it was I a very inventive way around the problem of the hanging thread.
 
I remember my dad talking about sitting on shift, while in the USN, and splicing lines. It was all done by hand and gave him something to do to pass the time.
 
Thanks for the illustration. As logs are for future builders to learn, it is nice to see every different method or way of doing a job shown. It's equally important for newer builders to see that beautiful details don't require a lot of expensive tools, just a bit of ingenuity.

Just put the last plank in on the larboard side.  No dropped planks and very little gaps. Overall, real happy with how it went.
I really learned a lot on this job.  I read over a planking tutorial again today that I had read before starting and much of what it said finally made sense.
When I was first starting out, I read tutorials, looked at build logs, got advice, and watched some videos. It was almost to much sensory overload for me, almost overwhelming with all the info. Being a more "learn from doing" person, as I progress, much of what I was told and read is making a lot more sense.
 

 

 
It looks like the second garboard on starboard doesn't sit on the edge of false keel, but it does. So it will all work when sanded an the Keel is put on.
 

 
 

Update time finally. Here are the finished chainplates and channels for the main mast:
 

 

 

 

 
It's some work to make them, especially reshaping the deadeyes and scratching the metalparts. It feels good to do some other work now before starting with the next mast. 
 
 
/Matti

Several times while fighting with the ratlines and the other rigging yesterday, I nearly knocked the ship off of the wobbly stand that came with the kit.  So, not feeling like tackling the other side of the ratlines at the moment, and needing a more stable platform, I decided I would try my hand at cobbling together a better stand to work off of.
The local hobby shop had a basswood plank that was originally 1/4" x 4" x 24", but someone had broken it off at the 17.5" mark somehow, so the shop had it marked down and I grabbed it for a buck, having no idea what I'd do with it.  I grabbed that plank, and a 5/8" oak dowel that I found at Lowes, and went to work with a scroll saw and my Dremel tool.  Much sanding, fitting, and drilling later..
 

 
It works great, and with some finishing, will probably be what I actually display the Carmen on when it is finished, rather than the flimsy kit stand that supports only via the keel.  I glued on some black velvet that I had used years ago to cover some ugly wood & bricks that were used for a large aquarium stand.  I'll trim that tomorrow after the glue has had a chance to dry well.
 

 
And here is what the ratlines look like currently after the super-glue instead of knots system.  I brushed on some acrylic clear flat to cover up the shiny glue.
 

 
Tomorrow after work I'll get back to the ratlines, and depending on time maybe work on the standing rigging some more.

Nils sorry I missed answering your question.  I have almost made up my mind to leave the cutter as a free sailing boat.
 
Set the sails and rudder and let her go.
Bob you nailed it.
 
Today was still cold it did get up to 5 degrees and the sun was shining for a bit this afternoon.
 
the new support cradle is refining up nicely, I made some 3/4 inch bolts with square nuts to begin assembling the structure the thread size is 3x48 the nuts were made by milling up a strip of 1/16 brass to .156 or 5/32 wide, then drilling a series of holes  tapping them and then cutting then off the strip with a jewelers saw. doing a final clean up with a file.
 
The first picture shows the more simple configuration with opposing verticals rather than pairs on both sides. the bottom timber is clear fir and 8 1/2 wide by 10 inches high the uprights are pine and are 6 inches x 2 inches these are full dimensions. there will be a further timber partnered next to the upright 6 x 2 closest to the camera this will have the swiveling pad that will be adjusted to fit up against the hull.
 

 
The second shows the bolts and the position at the stern
 

 
looking from the stern
 

 
Michael
 
 

There is no one absolute correct way to do any one thing. That's why ship and boat construction is a great never ending topic to study. Not just us as modelers, but the real builders development of things nautical over time are a testament to the never end possibilities that the human mind can develop.
 
I'm looking forward to watching this progress as your statement, "I thought about it for a day or two and decided..." tell a lot about your approach. Spending time thinking is a VERY overlooked part of this hobby.

So I have decided that I am not a big fan of ratlines. 
 
The kit has only one size of black line, so I only got one size of black from Syren.  I began the ratlines using this line, but after 4 I decided that they were ugly as all get-out, just way out of scale.  So I raided the AVS kit for the smallest non-thread line in that kit, as I've decided I'm going to rig the AVS in dark brown standing rigging instead of black. 
 
This line looks better, but the knots were simply impossible.  The line from the AVS kit is some sort of non-cotton that refuses to keep a knot tight.  Neither overhand knots or clove hitches would stay tight, even long enough to get my little tiny single strand rat line done, and as the knots kept opening up, it was impossible to keep the lines even and not be pulling the shrouds in or pushing them out.  Soaking the line in water, or even 50/50 white glue and water didn't make any difference.  The only way I found that would work was to tie a knot, hit it with super glue, and then hold the knot while it dried enough to hold it tight, but that made doing any adjustments impossible. 
 
After just four of these, I just gave up completely, started cutting off short bits of the line, and just supergluing them directly to the shrouds.  It's not "right", but it looks better than the mess I was making trying to tie this terribly uncooperative line onto the shrouds.  If I hadn't already decided to replace the AVS kit line with Syren line, this experience would have made that decision for me I do believe.  Once the glue has completely dried, I use nail-clippers to trim the ends off.
I wasted the entire day fighting with the rat lines, and at the end of it, I've only got two of the four completed, and nothing else accomplished.
 
I did get some syringes in the mail today, so glue application should get better now.

Yeah for me...after 11 days and 3 tries, the hawse timbers are cut, assembled, shaped, and installed.  They still need lots of sanding but it's best (from my point of view) to blend into the framing plus there's an inside curve down down low that becomes the outside curve as it rises.  I'm thinking it's best to try it this way.
 
There's also still a ton of fairing to do and I want that done and out of the way before attacking the stern.   So the next update my be awhile. 
 
I'm debating whether to drill out the hawse ports or put in the plugs and leave the anchors unrigged.  My reasoning is that I'm considering full rigging and sails for this one.