KevinR

Hi all.
 
Account is very old but I haven't posted before now. I just started an experimental build log of HMS Surprise, using a 3D printed hull with scratchbuild fittings (hopefully I'll get that far).
 
Cheers,
Irxum

Hi! and welcome.
I was able to accomplish some more work on my boat today.
  The skeg has been shaped and is ready to b glued into place. I am using basswood for most of the model. I have picked up some square poplar dowels of different sizes from the local Lowes. I use the poplar where I want something harder than basswood. I used a 1/8x1/8" strip as the keel shoe.  The smallest poplar dowel is 1/4x1/4". I had to sand it down to 1/8x1/8".
  The stem facing was made from a 3/8"x3/8" poplar dowel. I first had to shave it down to 3/8/'x3/16", then taper the side into 1/8".
  I made the rudder post out of 1/4x1/4" poplar dowel, turning it in my drill. I decided to wait to add the skeg until I have the rudder completed. This way I can ensure a better fit.
 

Skeg with the template glued.
 

The Stem facing waiting to be shaped.
 

THe Skeg shaped, with the keel shoe and the stem facing shaped and ready to be glued.
 

The new Rudder post.
 
Thank you for stopping by.  I hope to have more to show soon.
 
Catch Yall Later,

Hi! and welcome.
I was able to accomplish some more work on my boat today.
  The skeg has been shaped and is ready to b glued into place. I am using basswood for most of the model. I have picked up some square poplar dowels of different sizes from the local Lowes. I use the poplar where I want something harder than basswood. I used a 1/8x1/8" strip as the keel shoe.  The smallest poplar dowel is 1/4x1/4". I had to sand it down to 1/8x1/8".
  The stem facing was made from a 3/8"x3/8" poplar dowel. I first had to shave it down to 3/8/'x3/16", then taper the side into 1/8".
  I made the rudder post out of 1/4x1/4" poplar dowel, turning it in my drill. I decided to wait to add the skeg until I have the rudder completed. This way I can ensure a better fit.
 

Skeg with the template glued.
 

The Stem facing waiting to be shaped.
 

THe Skeg shaped, with the keel shoe and the stem facing shaped and ready to be glued.
 

The new Rudder post.
 
Thank you for stopping by.  I hope to have more to show soon.
 
Catch Yall Later,

Thanks, Russ, Denis, Mark for the compliments and all who clicked the Like button.
 
Decided to hang the dredges off the side of the boat at the stern. Hung the push boat from the stern davit but left the ropes long and loose in case I need to remove the pusher from its davit during later construction. For now the ropes are wound around the cleat with friction holding them fast.
 
Some progress pictures.
 

Hi! and welcome.
I was able to accomplish some more work on my boat today.
  The skeg has been shaped and is ready to b glued into place. I am using basswood for most of the model. I have picked up some square poplar dowels of different sizes from the local Lowes. I use the poplar where I want something harder than basswood. I used a 1/8x1/8" strip as the keel shoe.  The smallest poplar dowel is 1/4x1/4". I had to sand it down to 1/8x1/8".
  The stem facing was made from a 3/8"x3/8" poplar dowel. I first had to shave it down to 3/8/'x3/16", then taper the side into 1/8".
  I made the rudder post out of 1/4x1/4" poplar dowel, turning it in my drill. I decided to wait to add the skeg until I have the rudder completed. This way I can ensure a better fit.
 

Skeg with the template glued.
 

The Stem facing waiting to be shaped.
 

THe Skeg shaped, with the keel shoe and the stem facing shaped and ready to be glued.
 

The new Rudder post.
 
Thank you for stopping by.  I hope to have more to show soon.
 
Catch Yall Later,

Hi! and welcome.
I was able to accomplish some more work on my boat today.
  The skeg has been shaped and is ready to b glued into place. I am using basswood for most of the model. I have picked up some square poplar dowels of different sizes from the local Lowes. I use the poplar where I want something harder than basswood. I used a 1/8x1/8" strip as the keel shoe.  The smallest poplar dowel is 1/4x1/4". I had to sand it down to 1/8x1/8".
  The stem facing was made from a 3/8"x3/8" poplar dowel. I first had to shave it down to 3/8/'x3/16", then taper the side into 1/8".
  I made the rudder post out of 1/4x1/4" poplar dowel, turning it in my drill. I decided to wait to add the skeg until I have the rudder completed. This way I can ensure a better fit.
 

Skeg with the template glued.
 

The Stem facing waiting to be shaped.
 

THe Skeg shaped, with the keel shoe and the stem facing shaped and ready to be glued.
 

The new Rudder post.
 
Thank you for stopping by.  I hope to have more to show soon.
 
Catch Yall Later,

Patrick,
I love the look of finished wood. However, I build ships for the history. Historically, skipjacks are painted inside and out, except for the mast. My plan is to paint everything as well. The hull will be white and red below the water line. The interior will be a light grey. The deck will be white. Ironwork will be black. In reality they were a pretty boring on color.   The only wood that will be left bright is the mast, boom and jib club.
 
Thanks for asking.

The sides have been cut down, so it now looks more like a skipjack. I am currently working on the skeg and the stem facing.




Here is the skeg glued up and ready to b shaped.
 
Well I have a snow day tomorrow, so my plan is to complete the skeg and the stem facing. I hope to have something for show and tell at the next club meeting.
 
Catch Yall Later,

Hi! and welcome.
I was able to accomplish some more work on my boat today.
  The skeg has been shaped and is ready to b glued into place. I am using basswood for most of the model. I have picked up some square poplar dowels of different sizes from the local Lowes. I use the poplar where I want something harder than basswood. I used a 1/8x1/8" strip as the keel shoe.  The smallest poplar dowel is 1/4x1/4". I had to sand it down to 1/8x1/8".
  The stem facing was made from a 3/8"x3/8" poplar dowel. I first had to shave it down to 3/8/'x3/16", then taper the side into 1/8".
  I made the rudder post out of 1/4x1/4" poplar dowel, turning it in my drill. I decided to wait to add the skeg until I have the rudder completed. This way I can ensure a better fit.
 

Skeg with the template glued.
 

The Stem facing waiting to be shaped.
 

THe Skeg shaped, with the keel shoe and the stem facing shaped and ready to be glued.
 

The new Rudder post.
 
Thank you for stopping by.  I hope to have more to show soon.
 
Catch Yall Later,

Good day people, after many years away from building  (planes and boats) a Bluenose kit from Artesiana is tempting me to part with some cash and I am curious as to the quality of the kits.  The last kit was a Billing Cutty Sark but it met an untimely end in a house move before I could complete the rigging.
 
 

I'll find the more definitive book in a couple days.
 
From "American Ship Models and How To Build Them"; It says that wire rope replaced hemp for standing rigging about 1860. Their instructions state that 3/4" wire rope was used on the skipjack Carrie Price for the shrouds, and 1/2" for the balance of the standing rigging. Hemp was used for the running rigging.

Patrick,
I love the look of finished wood. However, I build ships for the history. Historically, skipjacks are painted inside and out, except for the mast. My plan is to paint everything as well. The hull will be white and red below the water line. The interior will be a light grey. The deck will be white. Ironwork will be black. In reality they were a pretty boring on color.   The only wood that will be left bright is the mast, boom and jib club.
 
Thanks for asking.

The sides have been cut down, so it now looks more like a skipjack. I am currently working on the skeg and the stem facing.




Here is the skeg glued up and ready to b shaped.
 
Well I have a snow day tomorrow, so my plan is to complete the skeg and the stem facing. I hope to have something for show and tell at the next club meeting.
 
Catch Yall Later,

Ron,
Please let me know what you find?

Ron,
Please let me know what you find?

Ron,
I do not believe that wire rope was originally used for standing rigging on skipjacks. Most Skipjacks were built on the cheap. I believe wire rope was not routinely used on skipjacks until the 1930s. (Unfortunately I cannot remember where I read this. I may be wrong.) Wire rope would have been an extravagance in 1890 - 1900.

I have a Skipjack book around here, I'll look it up.

Ron,
I do not believe that wire rope was originally used for standing rigging on skipjacks. Most Skipjacks were built on the cheap. I believe wire rope was not routinely used on skipjacks until the 1930s. (Unfortunately I cannot remember where I read this. I may be wrong.) Wire rope would have been an extravagance in 1890 - 1900.

Patrick,
I love the look of finished wood. However, I build ships for the history. Historically, skipjacks are painted inside and out, except for the mast. My plan is to paint everything as well. The hull will be white and red below the water line. The interior will be a light grey. The deck will be white. Ironwork will be black. In reality they were a pretty boring on color.   The only wood that will be left bright is the mast, boom and jib club.
 
Thanks for asking.

The sides have been cut down, so it now looks more like a skipjack. I am currently working on the skeg and the stem facing.




Here is the skeg glued up and ready to b shaped.
 
Well I have a snow day tomorrow, so my plan is to complete the skeg and the stem facing. I hope to have something for show and tell at the next club meeting.
 
Catch Yall Later,

Patrick,
I love the look of finished wood. However, I build ships for the history. Historically, skipjacks are painted inside and out, except for the mast. My plan is to paint everything as well. The hull will be white and red below the water line. The interior will be a light grey. The deck will be white. Ironwork will be black. In reality they were a pretty boring on color.   The only wood that will be left bright is the mast, boom and jib club.
 
Thanks for asking.

Patrick,
I love the look of finished wood. However, I build ships for the history. Historically, skipjacks are painted inside and out, except for the mast. My plan is to paint everything as well. The hull will be white and red below the water line. The interior will be a light grey. The deck will be white. Ironwork will be black. In reality they were a pretty boring on color.   The only wood that will be left bright is the mast, boom and jib club.
 
Thanks for asking.

Hiya all,
            I signed up for NRG a couple of months ago, I was already 70% complete on my first wooden model, (Emma C. Berry, Model Shipways), hence no build log. I went in at the deep end after 6 months of plastic super hero figure modelling needing something more challenging. I had no idea how valuable the knowledge base was on this forum, but I am now a firm believer it is the only way to go. The latter portion of the Emma build was so much more fulfilling having such good reference logs to pour over.
 
 Being recently retired time is not an issue so I have just purchased my second model, the Chaperon, again from Model Shipways, I really like the service I have received from those guys.
 
A build log will follow as soon as Mr. Mailman has delivered my blue box, very excited for that.
Great hobby, great site, great modelling to all.
 
 
      All the best, Len.............
 
P.S. to Anja,
                 Rossi46 a.k.a. Emerson, I'm the one to blame for the weird name, I'm his dad!

Why is it that every 15 years or so I return to ship modelling? Of all my (many) hobbies, this is the only one I come back to! ‘Just a rhetorical thought.
 
In any case, here I am back again and I must say this forum really fills a gap in the ship modelling world. My last kit model from 25 years ago (attachment) was great fun and I was fairly happy with it but the access to practical knowledge and research for personal improvement was nowhere near as easy find as this forum seems to provide. I’ve been skimming all over the forum for about two weeks now and am very happy to have found it.
 
I’ve chosen a POB kit from Model Expo, the New Bedford Whaleboat, to sharpen my skills for now and figure out what I don’t know … which will take a while. There are already some very nice builds and discussions of that whaleboat in the forum and I am less than an hour away from the New Bedford Whaling Museum.
 
I dusted off my last project (attachment) from the 90's but can’t remember the name of the kit. The stand is from Aeropiccola so maybe the kit was also made by them. IIRC it had three layers of planks. A balsa or basswood layer over molds. Then an outer and inner layer of (I think) walnut. One side of the hull is painted and the other side is natural with a thin varnish. The grating is removable. Many parts are missing.
 
So, I am really looking forward to participating in the forum. And by the way, Happy New Year!
 
Mike
 

 

Hi Kevin
 
Some nice progress so far.
 
Will the hull be painted or varnished. Just curious.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick