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JerryTodd

NRG Member
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About JerryTodd

  • Birthday 09/20/1960

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  • Website URL
    http://todd.mainecav.org/model/
  • Skype
    geraldatodd

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Severna Park Maryland USA
  • Interests
    Astronomy, sailing, horse riding, motor cycle riding, wood working, living history and reenacting, wargaming, ship modeling, history, maps, reading, ice cream, animals in general but cats especially, a lady named Daphne

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  1. I can fit 5 carriages on the plate, angled at 45° takes about 2:25 hours 8 tubes at 45° are taller and take just over 3 hours. 7 carronade slides take 2:10 hours, and a dozen carronades are a couple of minutes take 1:56. "For those watching at home;" print time is based on layers, so the taller something is, the more layers it will have and the longer it takes (that includes the supports). Otherwise how much in on the plate (the blue box in the pics) has no effect on time; though it obviously effects the amount of resin used. The parts have to be angled to keep the surface area of each layer to a minimum or the wrong side will win in the tug-of-war between the plate/supports and the bottom of the vat.
  2. So, I've been printing cannons in between other things and have all the 18 pounder tubes I need, but only 15 carriages so far. and half the carronades with their slides.
  3. This time I got a nearly perfect print but for some reason it printed over the hole at the bottom with the same gash in it as the first print had. I'm not printing it again, so I'll drill out the hole, or maybe put in a pin so it can spin.
  4. I figured I was done until the model was far enough along to merit adjusting and printing this thing, but I had a nagging feeling I needed to test print it rather than wait. Always trust your gut, I guess... The first thing I noticed was the boxes that formed the sockets for the capstan bars hardly printed at all. Both disks should have printed solid with square holes in it, so I'll probably need to rework it to figure out why they didn't. Note: I yanked off the supports, gave the parts a quick wash, and cured them quickly, so they don't look a good as they could even with their flaws The post connecting both capstans together is supposed to be a tube, and came out that way on the upper capstan, but, for some reason didn't on the lower one. The bottom closed-up except for a small gash, and inside it printed what look like vanes. The band at the top of the lower capstan which forms a socket for the upper to fit into, tried to fill in. In the model this part didn't have faces on it's inner surfaces, which is a sure-fire way to give the slicer a fit trying to interpret it. So it's "back-to-the-drawing-board"
  5. The gun models done, I moved on to the capstan. I based my model on a drawing from NMM of the Neptune's capstan "taken off at Deptford Yard, 1796" The drawing has an actual scale on it, rather than "1 inch = 5 foot." or some thing equally useless when you're working from digital scans. I'm working in Anim8or again, and had the bulk of the model done in a couple of hours. The spar-deck capstan is separate from the gun-deck one to make it easier to install in the model. I made the pillar hollow to save on resin and facilitate curing, so it doesn't crack over time. I breaks at the band above the lower capstan, and the bit that extrudes below the upper one will need to have it's length adjusted to fit what the model actually turns out to be. I simplified some items, like the pawls and stops, and the whole model's basically non-functional, 'cause I don't need it to be functional.
  6. Assuming you're working in 1:64 scale normal sewing thread should be fine, though I suggest polyester over cotton. Both Pride I & II's shrouds were wire rope and the seizings were also wire, though most eyes were spliced. Neither boat was truly "authentic."
  7. Still trying to figure out blender so i can do all the curly decorations on Constellation's head and Macedonian's stern and not doing very well with the learning curve, so after shoveling some snow today, I fell back on something I know how to do, guns. I had these basically modeled for a while now and was just adding details; eyebolts, rings, etc; but I rebuilt the carronade slide completely from scratch. For Macedonian, I'll need 22 carronades and 28 18's and maybe 2 more for chasers. Besides various drawings; I used images of the 18's on board Unicorn and the carronades on Trincomalee as general guides. The files for both are available on Thingiverse I've started printing them, though it's taken some fidgeting to get them to come out right, mostly in how they are angled and supported. I'm a bit up-in-the air about the color of the carriages/slides. On Victory their all a buff color, Trincomolee they're black, on Unicorn they're unpainted. So what color should I paint them for a frigate in 1812? Test prints are done, time to go into full production
  8. Most of the lines made-off to these pins will be static and basically "for show,' they won't be under much stress. I'm use a resin meant to be stronger than the stuff people use to print D&D porn figures. The real test will be the rigging screws
  9. If your model is post 1800ish - it mostly likely didn't have this cat's cradle on it.
  10. Welcome from near Annapolis
  11. While looking for other possible pin-rails to make, noticed the aft pin-rails also had one of those big mallet pins, and also had more pins closer together than I had modeled. Follow the red arrow in this portion of an 1890s photo So, I fixed the 3D model and printed it, again The mounting holes were drilled and the rails primed, then painted. By the time they could be handled, it had gotten cold again, so they haven't been installed. The bulwark needs fresh paint were the pin-rails go anyway, so it's waiting for another unseasonally warm day (above 50°f outside) so paint and glues will set, and fingers will function
  12. The best image of the bow pin-rails is one from 1926 when the ship was in Newport Rhode Island These were modeled the same for each side, but the angle on the back was reversed because the bulwark leans outboard here. And her they sit where they eventually get installed
  13. The midships pin-rail printed perfecly, and awaited the gloms of primer, paint, and clear-coat that will protect from UV while sailing in the Chesapeake Bay. The forward pin-rails are on the printer as I type this... And here's the forward pin-rail
  14. Half-an-hour-ish, and I've fFixed the pin-rail model to have the proper angle back-side, and set it to printing. Five hours and some change later it came out perfectly. See the angle? Well there it is siting somewhere near where it will live. While that was printing I started making the midships pin-rail; the one closest in this screen capture. In this picture from the 1890's, I originally though there was a caval at the aft end, but it actually appears to be a pair of meat tenderizers. This wasn't going to fit in the printer, even at an angle, so I made each side in two parts, and angled them (not to fit, but make them more likely to print properly) As I type here, this one is on the printer with about 4 hours to go Keeping with that workflow I should be making the forward pin-rails while the others print, but it's almost 3am, so, later...
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