hexnut

I redrew the plans of the hull at the size of the model I wanted to built, using the extreme method of pencil and paper...
I drew the lines of the false keel and the positions of the frames.
 

 

 
I cut the false keel and the frames from plywood, while I cut strips of beechwood for the planking.
I had chosen the “planking on bulkheads” method and I started building the hull with only one layer of planking.
The hull was going to be built up to the level of deck, placing later the final keel, stem and stern-post.
 

 

 

 
Thanks
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

And finally me very proud on the beach

 
 

Here are the final pictures of the Antje, KW49. It is a ship from the village Katwijk and I made the pictures also in Katwijk.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Today , proved to be a good challenge, I started by getting the Transom laid out , next I framed in the transom section and then faired it in with the frames. I then added a piece of Birch ply ( wich will be stained a cherry red ) I then turned my attention to planking . I did the first 3 rows , and then detailed  the cockpit section. I then ran the next 3 rows of planking. Next will be to finish the planking. Here are the results

Build log part 3
 
 
 
Whilst the design work goes on, I`m looking for what material resources I still have laying around that can be used without buying new....
There are still 3 of those brass candle holders that will give nice pedestals for the model`s stand, they would be conform with the stands for my "Gorch Fock" and "Pamir", and perhaps the one or other odd wooden strips from the resources bin can be used within the hull making......The base plate for setting up the frames has already been prepared and smoothend to take the third ship built on it (my shipyard slipway)
Although fingers are itching to get the new hull under steam, there is the strong desire to complete my "HMS Pegasus" within due time, she is looking at me sadly all the time
 
 

 
need to spread out (just for a moment, otherwise I`ll be in for trouble) in the admiral`s washing an ironing kitchen
 
 

 
taken partionaly from historic documents from the web...
 
 

 
will probably do the rudder heel and the window out cut from brass. The section also shows the stagered lengths of the propshaft bearing supports
 

 
here the three left over brass candle holders, ( the threads on top will be cut off, the center drilled through)
 
 

 
 

 
fit M4 spindle and a "knock in" wood nut for anchoring the spindle in the ships reinforcement backbone, (20mm beech sqarebar)
 
 

 
here is my humble hoizontal "latheing" and vertical drilling station
 
 

 
I have two power machines, a grinding device for sharpening tools, and a multi belt/disc grinder
 
 

 
my wood bin, with the "leftovers"
 
 

 
this little room in our home basement I have occupied for the "rough" work, fortunately I have a second larger room for the more "clean" modeling
 
 

 
This is the base board I shall use for the new frame set up. The board where it is laying on, can be swiveled back 90° to be out of the way. The hight of this swivel-board is lower that the surrounding ones and has just the right hight for working putting the sewing machine on (when sail sewing)
 
 
 
Nils

Build log part 2
 
 
I know it sounds strange to start making the propellers where the hull is not even on the slipway, but I was wondering if I could make them from brass, as they are a typical detail, in the way they were designed 118 years ago......., and as I`ve never seen such model props on the model market, it would be a pitty if I had to fit regular model brass props
 
 

 
I fell in love with these elegant stern lines, designed for speed
 
 

 
here some of the detail parts, in total there are 38 to be made single parts per prop, port- and stb. props rotate counterclockwise with appr. blade twists
 
 

 
raw hub with mounted, drilled and slotted calottes to take up the blades. The slot orientation is set with card template angle jig. The hub raw material is 8 mm squarebar, with centerline boring and M3 thread
 
 

 
blades soldered on and brushed over, the soldering per gas tourch was quite tricky
 
 

 
started to fit the resembled blade fastening bolts with distance sleeves and hexagonal dome nuts. Here six bolts (in actual would be 8 or 10, but that was to tricky for me to drill at that scale...
 
 

 
The actual props had a diam. of 6800 mm, resulting in 47,2 mm model scale 1:144
 
 

 
without bolts....
 
 

 
with bolts
 
 

 
the first prop took me 2 days to make, the second 1,5 day (learncurve)
 
 

 
here original design drawing with 3-blade hub
 
 
Nils
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Patrick,
yes, the decision has been made for this model, first I wanted to wait until I have the frame aligning on the slipway, but then I thought one must have confedence in the planing design work, and to push the boat out now.....
I`ve been working on the scale brass four blade, bolted on propellors and shall probably have some pics tomorrow...
 
Nils

Introduction
 
 
"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse"  (120 year old passenger expressliner)
  Fascinated by this beautiful  22,5 knots, 197,7 m long Atlantic runner, built by Vulcan shipyard Stettin, and launched in year 1897, 120 years ago, I started exploring if there would be any build plans available for building a model of this super liner. The “Kaiser Wilhem der Grosse”, short KWdG was the first luxurious German twin screw fourstacker of the North German Lloyd for the Bremerhaven-New York route and became awarded with the blue ribband for fastest Atlantic crossings at turn of the century.   The ship was initialy equipped with two 3-blade counter rotating screws and later on with two 4-blade screws with blades seperately bolted to the hubs. The ship has a streamlined hull (stern underwater shape) with underwater rudder system, as we also  know from Cunard`s “greyhounds” twins (Mauretania and Lusitania) later on, built in 1906.   Due to the size, the models length should not exceed 1500 mm and so I chose the scale 1:144, resulting in 1380 mm overall length. Knowing that it’s a tough and ambitious scale to tackle, at least there may be some few photo-etched general parts available in 1:144, for use, if my house made build capability can not deal with.   Unfortunately I could not find any plan, but found some for modelists valuable historic detail information on the web. With a portion of luck I also found and bought an odd set of the card build KWdG, which is out of production at the moment, totally sold out, and perhaps may find a revival by end of this year, acc. to the editoring and Publishing company. The card version may give important (when enlarged) rating for my model and it`s fitting out at a very much later time.   To get along now, I am designing my own frame-plan after the gathered information, for keellaying  and kicking off the build this summer, as my “HMS Pegasus”, Swan Class is in the completion phase at the moment. This project shall probably be my greatest challenge since I started building model ships, and I estimate that it may take between 2,5-3 years to complete as a static POF /POB scratch built model   Nils     Preparation phase.......     Build log part 1       The four funnels are situated in two groups       here still the originaly equipped 3-blade screws with bolted on blades. The center window outcut is not for a third propellor (like Titanic), but for preventation of fouling  the slightly overlapping prop-circles, stagered in propshaft lengths       this dry dock pic shows the four-blade screws (note the seperate bolted prop-blades to the hubs)       The card model in scale 1:250       This is a mini cast-model in scale 1:1250       starting with the frames design       note the different propshaft lengths, the prop circles are a bit overlapping within the centre window outcut area at the stern heel     further with frames / bulkheads plan.....       here a little mock up for the width of deck planking (2mm) versa figurines of only 12 mm hight in scale 1:144       this plastic box already contains the raw ply-wooden frame outlines (26 frames), ready for cutting out the contours. For the frames / bulkheads I am using up all my "left over" plywood      Nils

Hi All,
 
I wish I knew what broke me out of the slump I was in.  Then I would know what to do next time.  Anyway the mast hoops were one of the things giving me trouble.  I tried making them out of wood and then plastic, I was not happy with either.  I finally came up with the Idea that a manila folder would be the same color as wood.  I rolled a piece around a dowel with lots of glue, put it in the lathe and tore it to shreds.  Finally I cut thin strips of the card stock, tapered one end and wrapped them around the dowel covered with plastic wrap, a spot of CA at the start and a spot of CA at the end.  After all were wrapped I saturated them with CA to make them hard.  After a little clean-up I slipped them onto the mast.  Now maybe I can get on with the sail and rigging.
 
Bob
 

Strips cut 0.030” for a 1.5” thick ring.
 

Tapering the ends.
 

Strips wrapped around dowel.
 

Finished rings
 

Rings on mast.

Ought to call you "Rocket Pete" the speed at which you pull these boats together. The beginning looks great.
 
Michael

I started the day by laying out the Keel on 1/8" Bass wood, Next I lofted out all the frames , I then laid out the 3/32" Bass wood for the Frames , Next I cut out the Keel and Frames, then did a dry fit. so far She's coming out right on the money . Next will be to true up the frames and detail them along with the Keel . Here are the results

I have been planning this build for a while, and I have done extensive research. I am now comfortable with all the information gathered to start this build. This version is the one designed by Cap'n Nate (1912 ) Here are some of the drawings to give you an idea of what she will look like. Here are the results

Greg,
This discrepancy is due to the 'camber' in the deck.  The deck is higher in the middle and lower on the sides, to allow splash water to drain off the sides. 
Midwest kits are tried and true, so there should be no need to adjust any of the precut parts. 
Dee Dee

Even a better source is Bray´s album in NMM
 
Shows chest everywhere and being seated on :-)

 

 

From these images it seem just about everyone is right as there are bit of just about all comments within them.
 
From the hanging, but hinged swinging table, through both becketed and wooden handle boxes to benches and more. It's no surprise there are so many thoughts on the subjects.
 

 

 

Thanks for all the positive words, guys.
 
Couple or three pictures of the keel notching and keelson glueing. Those lolly sticks do have multitudinous uses. 
 

 
Although I did say precision is not my primary focus, I am not particularly happy with the notching. What I did was measure the thickness of two lolly sticks and used that as a standard measurement for all notches (and cut them poorly). What I should have done was cut each notch to fit the relevant frame. I'll use some packing (coffee stirrers - well, you've got me sussed by now) when I start to mount them.
 
Next task is to notch each frame to fit the keel/keelson. I'm putting off the lofting of the transoms but don't know why. They should be the next task, but I'll finish the straight frames first. 

The hull is developing nicely. I had a close shave with my floors, having estimated the required pieces too close for comfort, and not being sure until the very end that I'd have enough. Phew!
 
All the vertical frames are assembled and in place, attached with stringers. As the futtocks at bow and stern are angled, I plan to install them one at a time, to fit. Thus I'm now working to bend and attach an interior stringer at the deck line, to which I can measure & attach each futtock. For example, here's the bow:
 

 
I soaked these two long pieces in a cookie tray of boiling water, then bent them around a jury-rigged frame to the correct curve. Once they're dry, I'll glue them in place and have a solid reference point for the rest of the futtocks. Note the gentle sheer leading up to the stem. Here's the stern:
 

 
It's a bit simpler here. The stern is squared off, with a simple curve leading up to the deck. I cut out appropriate molds on my bandsaw, then glued them into an appropriate arrangement for bending the internal stringers. Like the bow, I soaked these in boiling water before bending them into place. As shown, they represent the actual shape of the stern (upside down) quite well. Once these are in place, I'll connect them to the existing stringers in the rest of the hull. Note that the last 8 futtocks are extra-long; this is because the stem also has a rising sheer, beginning there, so I cut those pieces longer to allow for trimming to the exact length once a final stringer is installed.
 
Other notes: while I could have installed all the internal stringers as one long piece, my internal perfectionist got the better of me and I instead cut them into regular, scarf-jointed planks (the actual builders wouldn't have had planks over 100' long!). These joints don't show up in the overexposed photo 1, but they're there. Also, the keelson will need to be built up with several layers of planking, but I won't do that until later.
 
Coming up next, I'll build the stern and connect the deck-level stringer all the way around, and start the tedious job of custom-cutting and -fitting the ~100 futtocks needed to complete the hull framing.
 
This has been great fun so far, and while I'm not particularly looking forward to all the fussy cant frames coming up, I love the geometry of open full framing. A voice in my mind is suggesting that I change course dramatically and build this simply as an open-hull model, with no superstructure at all, perhaps with the deck half-planked at most. What think you all?
 

Hi ho everyone and thanks for all your Likes and comments.
 
Well, it may not look like it, but I actually have been doing a fair bit of work in terms of measuring and marking the interior layout, eg bulkheads and positions of floors, etc. The only problem is that there's nothing much to show for it, but trust me, I have been doing some work!
 
I have also continued the painting of Symphony's hull. Here are the photos.
 
Still a long way to go, but fun nonetheless!
 
Cheers and all the best!
 
Patrick

Hi everyone
 
Many thanks for all of your comments and Likes!
 
Tonight, I decided to see what Symphony's hull would look like with a matt coloured under hull. So, I promptly taped it up and gave the under-hull a quick coat of matt paint.
 
I'm not totally committed to the colour I chose, so I may decide to change it later on. But, on the whole, I don't think it looks that bad.
 
I also put the drop keel in, ensuring that it can be retracted into the hull, much the same as the real ship's drop keel.
 
Here are the photos.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Hi Elia,
I thought you might be interested in this article in the latest issue of BoatUS magazine: http://www.boatus.com/magazine/2015/june/the-real-mccoy.asp
It’s about Bill McCoy who purchased the Arethusa in the 1920’s for a purpose that, let say was not exactly as glamorous as mackerel fishing 
There are some pictures of the Arethusa deck in there. Something I learned is that the wheel of the Arethusa was the model for the helm of the famous Gloucester Fisherman’s memorial in Gloucester.

Last fall I began tinkering with making a dory for my schooner with the idea of casting them in resin. The reasoning for casting them was that I didn’t think my build precision and tolerances could yield a stack of dories (5-6) in which the nested dories would resemble real stacks of dories which pack together fairly tightly.

I used a plan for a 15 foot (measured along the bottom of the dory) version. This is representative of the dories used during Arethusa’s era, and the length of dory used for halibut, cod, and other larger dory trawling fishing.

The first photo shows the plans I used.
The second photo shows the bulkheads aligned on a small build board. The transom and stem were extended to the build board and glued in place. Later on they were judiciously cut off the build board once the planking was complete.


The third photo shows the strakes used on the sides of the hull. The largest width strakes could have been left straight; I chose to pre-cut the lower edge to aid in alignment with the bottom plank. Take note that the upper strakes are purely straight planks with no in-plane spiling. This was very common.


The fourth photo shows the bottom surface glued and secured in place. The bottom has a slight rocker or camber (fore-aft) to it.


The fifth photo shows the second strake glued in place. The lap strake assembly method presented slight challenges to me. I tried applying the very small bevel to the mating surfaces of the adjoining strakes. When assembling it was difficult to get the strakes to stay in the correct spot as the bevels and the clamps (applying force - to the beveled surfaces) resulted in the upper strake/plank moving.


The sixth photo shows the dory with planking complete and cut off the build board. You can see the extended stem and transom in this photo.


The seventh photo shows the dory upside down.


I’ve done a little clean up on the dory, having trimmed down the stem and transom and will add the rail strips. I received a starter resin casting set for my birthday and my casting attempts will follow shortly.

Cheers,

Elia

OK here you go...