Nirvana

Time to build up the port and starboard sides of the mast head.  I used the mast template to determine the dimensions.  A real mast would have its top cut at an angle to lock it into the mast cap.  This detail is not visible so I shaped it as a simple square.  The full- sized dimensions are 9” square by 11”tall, which is the thickness of the mast cap. 


Iron bands were placed around the mast head at regular intervals.  I used paper dyed with archival ink.  On this photo you can see that I have added bolts to the cheek.  The bolts are made from 24 g copper wire patinated with liver of sulfur. 

 
The wooldings provide extra strength to the mast.  The number and composition varied based on the era.  At this time, they were made of 2.5” tarred rope (all rope dimensions are circumference).  Because I will be using several diameters of line in the build, I made a table consisting of the full-sized circumference, the circumference at  1:48 scale and the diameter at 1:48 scale.  The easiest way to determine the diameter of your rope is to wrap 10-20 windings around a dowel, measure the distance and divide it by the number of windings.  Remember, circumference is πd so the rope diameter is circumference/π.  I used eight wraps for each woolding.  To hide the ends of the wooldings, I tucked them in the gap between the mast and the cheeks. 

Above and below the wooldings are wooden hoops.  I simulated them by cutting strips of paper and wrapping two layers around the mast.  This gave the hoops the appropriate thickness.

 

The dimensions of the top are determined by the size of the topmast; the dimensions of the trestle and cross trees are derived from the size of the top.  The topmast on this ship was specified on the plans as 32’ 10”.   The width of the top is 1/3 the length of the topmast wide and ¾ the top’s width fore-to-aft.  The hole in the top is 5/12 the width of the top.  The kit will provide a template for the top. 
The trestle trees run fore and aft; the cross trees run across the ship.  The trestle trees are as long as the top.  The cross trees are different lengths; the fore cross tree is shorter than the aft one because of the curvature of the top.  Look at the following drawings.  The dimensions of the trestle and cross trees are derived from the width of the top (W).  There is a small notch on the inside face of the trestle tree for the mast head.  I made them from 1/8” basswood sheet and sanded them down to the correct thickness.  It is important to make sure that the top surface of the assembly is not twisted.  The easiest way to avoid twisting is to turn it upside down and put a weight on top of it while the glue dries. 
Trestle Tree

The small piece of wood between the cross trees is called the chock.  It is a spacer between the mast head and the topmast.  It is the same height and width as the trestle tree. 
I inserted the mast into the hole in the deck.  As mentioned previously, the trestle trees are horizontal to the water line.  The cross/trestle tree assembly was placed onto the bibs and the  angle of the top of the bibs was adjusted with a sanding stick until the trestle trees were horizontal.  They were glued to the bibs. 

The final pieces to install onto the trestle tree are the bolsters.  These are quarter-round pieces of wood that prevent the shrouds from rubbing against the trestle trees.  They are slightly wider than the trestle tree and one-third its height.  Because the shrouds extend aft from the mast, the bolster starts at the fore end of the mast head and extends back to the aft cross tree.  I have added bolts to the trestle trees using 24 g copper wire.
 
Just as the bolsters protect the trestle trees, battens protect the mast head.  There are two battens on each side of the masthead and end below the second hoop from the top.  In order to lay flat against the mast head, small grooves were cut into the undersurface of each batten where it crossed a hoop with a #11 blade.

 
 
 
 

Most rings and eyebolts provided in kits are oversized, especially at the smaller scales.  They are very easy to make.  To make rings, temper (soften) brass or copper wire of the appropriate gauge by heating it in a flame.  I use my gas cooktop.  Let it cool slowly.  Drill a hole larger than the wire in one end of a dowel that is slightly larger than the desired inside diameter of the ring.  Thread the wire through the hole and tightly wrap the wire around the dowel.  When you are finished, tape one side of the wire.  This will help prevent the rings from flying away when you cut them from the dowel.  Use a metal cutting saw to cut through the wire.  If you don’t own the Czech-made JLC saw, get one.  They are fantastic.  No monetary interest in the company, so here is the link to their website. https://www.umm-usa.com/catalog/tools_JLC.html The pirated cheap imitations on Amazon are not the same quality.  Gently bend the wire to close the gap left by the saw kerf.  Clean and blacken.  Easy!  For rings that are going to be under a lot of tension, solder the ring closed before blackening.   If you are making a lot of rings, you can chuck the dowel into a drill rather than hand wrapping it.

Eyebolts are just as easy to make but you will need fine-tipped round-nosed pliers.  Your best source for this tool is a jewelry supply store.  Mark on your pliers the desired inner diameter of the eyebolt.  Take a length of wire and file the end flat with a metal file.  Grasp the wire between the jaws of the pliers without any wire protruding beyond the jaws and wrap it around one of the jaws until you have a complete loop.  Sharply bend the wire back towards you to form the stem.  Cut to length, clean, blacken and repeat.

 

Or go to the NRG store.  https://thenrgstore.org/collections/the-nautical-research-journal

Continuing on with the sail rigging...Fore sail and fore top sail next, starting from the bottom with the fore sail.  There are a lot of blocks and a fair amount of rigging required for the peak and throat halliards.  Need to pay close attention to the rigging plan on sheet 6 to make sure all the lines run to the correct pins.  
 
I attached the fore boom and loosely rigged the sheet and topping lift so that they could be tightened up as needed once the sail was rigged and attached.  

Once the boom was in place I added all of the ties for the mast hoops to the fore sail and lashed the top of the sail to the fore gaff.

I thought I had taken pictures of the completed peak halliard before I added the fore top sail but, did not have any when I went to edit the pics for posting.  

Once I had the gaff rigged, I lashed the bottom of the sail to the boom and then snugged all of the lines up.

The fore top sail was next.  I learned from the main top sail to attach all of the clew line fairleads and blocks, the rigging line and block and the mast hoop ties BEFORE attaching the sail to the mast.  So much easier to work with the sail off of the ship, duh!  Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures of this interim step and only have a photo of the sail fully rigged.  

Once again, very important to study the rigging plan, check and double check all the lines to make sure they are all routed appropriately and tied off to the correct pin prior to any permanant attachment.  I finished off all of the tie offs with rope coils.  While I was looking things over, I noticed that my main top sail and fore top sail were rigged on opposite sides of their associated peak halliards.  What I discovered is that I had placed the main top sail on the wrong side.  Both sails are set to the port side, but the bottom corner of the main top sail and tack line goes over the main gaff to the starboard side.  This is noted on the plans.


On to the stay sail...4 more to go!
 
Tim
 
 
 

And nobody will ever see that detail once the deck beams and deck planking are completed.
 
Too funny Greg.  It actually takes a lot longer to design and draft these partitions than it does to build them.  Once they are actually laser cut,  it takes no time at all to clean them up and  install them.  
 
If only I could find someone else to do that front end work for me.
 
The sail room partitions wont be fun to design I can tell you that.  

What a pleasure it must be to be able to design and laser cut your own custom cabin partitions. You may not like kitchen sinking but I guarantee yours is the only model with the correct three nail pattern on the cabin planking.
Would you like to borrow Gus, our office cat, to take care of your rat problem?

Starting chapter 7
 
The first thing I wanted to do, just to get it out of the way...was to get all the gundeck beams made.  I cleaned the char off of all 11 beams now.  Then they were cut to length using the plans as a guide.  I also used the plans to establish where each deck beam is positioned.  For now I will just set them aside and grab them as I need them.   The last thing I wanted was to have to stop what I am doing just to clean char off a beam and cut it to length.  Its a comfort knowing they are all done and ready.
 
The photo below shows all the beams just resting on the deck clamp.
 

This allowed me the opportunity to cut all the templates and see what the planking scheme would look like so I can adjust it now rather than later.   I think its a good plan as is...and I wont make any adjustments, yet.
 

 
With the beams all ready and at hand, I could start making the cabins on the lower platform at the bow.
 
Each bulkhead will be made in two layers.   Both are 1/32" thick and are laser etched with a bunch of reference lines.   Now it would be easy enough to make these from scratch but this does make the building process quicker.  Especially since very little of these will be seen.  Below are the sections for the carpenters cabin on the starboard side.   It shows both sides.  I cleaned the char from the inside edges of the door panels and then glued up each layer.
 
Before I add any details I made sure they fit on the model.  I adjusted them to fit nicely in position and adjusted the heights etc.   This is why it is good to have those deck beams handy.  You need to have the first two beams in position to get the heights correct.
 

 
Once I was sure they fit on the model OK (see the deck layout for details), I started added the hinges and stanchions.

First I added the upright timbers which are either 1/8" x 1/8" strips cut to length or 3/32" x 3/32" strips.  The plans show which.   Then I added the door handles and hinges.   Make sure to add the handles on both sides of the door.   And be careful to put them on the correct side based on which way the doors open.
 
The outside view of both bulkheads completed.
 

The interior of the carpenters cabin detailed.

 
Finally they were glued into position on the model.  I placed the side with the doors first.  Just use your planking of the lower platform to position it straight and against the stanchion on the fcastle bulkhead.  
Then I added the smaller section along the aft edge of the platform.  This will probably need the outside edge to be sanded because I laser cut them longer than needed.   So adjust the side that butts up against the frames.   But remember, there isnt any planking on the inboard side of the frames so it is expected to show a gap.   Just get it as even and consistent as you can.  
 
The carpenters cabin and boatswains cabin completed.
 
Note how the top of the bulkheads against the deck clamp are flush with the top of the deck clamp.    
 

Next up will be the sail room.  But that needs to be built a different way because of the louvered walls for ventilation. 
 
Chuck
 
 
 

I agree to that Phil, some of the answers here helped me a lot already. ALso gave me a lot of inspiration and ideas to solve some of my issues. And yes, it`s always nice to meet folks from around the world  
 
Micha

Agreed with the above.
 
MSW is my happy place and my favorite place online.

MSW has really helped me develop my model making skills and is my number one source of inspiration and ideas.
 
Being an NRG member lets me support MSW and I enjoy reading the Journal.
 
One of these days, I’m going to buy the $99 USB drive to get the rest of the NRG Journal issues.

Just renewed last week. If I remember correctly, it will be seven years now.
I'll be honest, I feel a little bit of pride being an NRG member.
I can't begin to express what this website and organization has given me. 
Chatted with people from all over the globe. Tips and techniques I would have never thought of. 
 
Not much of today's modern life can afford me that. Seems everywhere online is filled with dishonesty.
This is my happy place. 
Good honest people. 
 
 
Tom L. 
 
 

Check out the NRG website thenrg.org  You can join for as little as $40 (US funds) with the Digital Edition.  It can be read on-line or saved to your computer.  You can print out articles for your private use (copyrights).
There is a downloadable pdf copy of a Journal you can read to see a typical Journal.  There is a lot of useful information on the site.  Like all hobby related magazines we can only print what is submitted.  We do pay for modeling articles so you might want to consider sharing with your fellow modelers and write an article - and get paid.
As others have said NRG membership helps support MSW.
 
Take care,
Kurt
 

Lots of drafting to do....Deck Layouts almost completed.

Looking so clean and crisp! You and Mike (Stuntflyer) definitely share a style and a quality level  
Glad that you are back!

Just a heads up...I have decided to make the plan sheets for this project available electronically.  Many have asked for an additional set so they can cut them up or so they can have a clean extra set.  Although I am printing them and including them with each appropriate laser cut installment,  some folks may be worried about stretching and or shrinking of the folded paper plans provided as well.   So to ensure there are no issues they are available electronically and can be printed on your own for a spare set to cut up as well.  I routinely cut them up myself to use for templates and such.  Since no framing parts are included there really isnt a concern that this will lead to copying of my kit design.  Not all laser cut parts are shown on the plans...for good reason.
 
So here are the first three....plan sheets completed.  The remaining will be added to my website once I am sure they are OK, after I build those areas of my prototype.
 
They are also available on my website
 
speedwellsheetone.pdf
 
speedwellsheettwo.pdf
 
speedwellsheetthree.pdf
 
 
 
 

Very interesting, me thinks ...
 
 

Based on popular demand and multiple requests, a package of smaller door handles is now available.   This multi-pack gives you 30 each of the 3/16" tall handles and now 1/8" tall handles.
 
In addition ....a multi pack of smaller door hinges is also available.   You get 16 each of 1/8" and 3/16" tall Hinges.   In both styles....
 

 

Hello all,
 
I am selling this Vanguard Models kit of the HMS Sphinx which is in completely like new condition.
1:64 scale, overall length 797 mm (31"), advanced skill level.
I have not opened up any of the sealed packages inside. Everything is exactly as originally received.
It includes the optional pear fittings package.
I am pricing it at a 25% discount from the current price on the Vanguard website for the kit and pear fittings set.
That would be $750 at the current exchange rate, plus shipping to USA addresses.
 
Thanks for looking!
 
Dave

I'm looking forward to it!

Hopefully by this weekend.

More progress on the eight fishing dories, using swiss pear which is very nice to work with, planks are .018" thick easily bendable with fingers.
Had a clamp which I glued bits of wood to, so that sanding to shape was easier. 

 
First planking done now have to work out shape for the second plank.
 

 
Until next time,
Regards
Richard
 
 

Shawn, You're good to go. I'm looking forward to seeing your build log.
 
Mike

Interesting provision of early drawings there, Mr. Passaro as well as Greg. Looking those prints over, I am curious about that sail room. Not only does it look extremely small, but folding those sails to fit in that small room would have been heavy and cumbersome.  My suspicion is that there is more of the sail room under the forecastle deck allowing the sails to fold and store more easily. Am I on the right track?
 
Brian D

Chuck wasn’t lying, there is lots of wood!
 
Shawn

Not back in that cabin….take a look at the original draft.   The captains stateroom is on the lower platform….an even smaller space.  These were small vessels and working mainly coastal.  
 
Smaller crew and even smaller spaces.  Heres a look at the original draft and cabin spaces.