Nirvana

The shrouds are jigged up to start the rat lines

I have this model waiting to be built...... sitting in the waiting room for some time.
This hull of yours look very nice. 
 

👌You are well on your way to a perfect looking hull!

Hey all!
 
Finally finished the second belt!
 
That sure took a while.  I'll share some pics.
 



 
I realized after working on the keel, that getting the correct angle is difficult.  I haven't measured for the 3rd belt yet to figure out the widths of the planks, but I hope I did a good enough job on the first 2 belts so the 3rd goes on alright.
 
I haven't finished sanding and filling some small areas yet, but I will do that after the third belt is complete.
 
Thanks all!
 
Jeff

"Please, Cap'n, there's a gubbins in the rigging!"

..like more 3D pear blocks.

Two bags worth just ordered (and some other 3D gubbins)...

When chapter 5 comes out.  All of you guys building the model will get a complimentary figure to show scale.  I will randomly select one of these and include it in your order for that chapter.
 

They are available!!!   
 

Those look amazing! 

Once again you have brought us a wonderful product! You are a resin printing Guru!

Thank you, I did notice the other non-wooden ship sections of this forum but what attracted me to here from r/ModelMakers on Reddit was the wealth in wooden ship knowledge and experience.
 
Billings now include a cast metal lion figurehead for this kit so I would be saving some work there; it's not as detailed as newly designed 3D-printed ones, but it will do. The instructions still say to carve out my own volutes for the decorative bulwark ends from the balsa blocks, however, so hopefully I will be able to manage that. 
 
I did consider the two other kits from the shipwright series at first, but decided on the 18th century longboat to practice instead as I preferred its looks. 

Excellent. I've added a number of your 1:48 pear wood pins to my latest model. My scale is 1:64, but the 9mm ones don't look terribly out of scale. However, as soon as you've stocked the 7.4mm in pear wood color I'll jump on my next order!
 
To see how good Chuck's new 3D belaying pins look I'm attaching a close up of my just completed HM Cracker gun brig. Keen eyes will note that adjacent to these pins are slightly smaller ones with rigging lines tied off to them; these are the smallest available (old school) brass ones: I paint these guys brown. I also use them because I have been paranoid that tying-off to the resin ones might be problematical with taut rigging lines. I'm anxious to see if the smaller 7.4 mm ones will hold the belaying line tension and not break.
 
AND – your new 3D swivels look wonderful. A tip: I apply a light dusting of metallic weathering powder to black 3D resin (as well as some P/E parts) to create a more convincing metallic finish. The plastic modeling guys use this stuff everywhere. The photo here also shows this effect on the carronades and the straps on the gaff jaws.

 
 

Impressive little beasties! Well done, Chuck.

Another new item will soon be in stock.  I had run out of my old swivel guns.  Those were cast in the traditional way and not 3D printed.  They has casting marks etc.  So now that I ran out of them I figured I would do a redesign.  Here are photos of the new 3D printed swivel guns.   Two pieces.   The yoke is flexible-ish.  This enables some manipulation to just slide the yoke into position from the bottom of the barrel and into the the holes.  Once you get one done the others will be easy.
 
I am pretty thrilled with these results because as some of you may be aware, black 3d printing resin is somewhat less than desirable.  The results often look too much like plastic or are too shiny and doesnt really show details well.  So I have conducted many tests yet again on my resin of choice.  The black finish is not to stark a black or but nice and warm and on the touch of a dark warm gray.  Very dark.  The material is also matte or barely satin.  So its a win-win.  I tried very hard to make these look like blackened brass or brushed metal which I think I achieved pretty darn close actually.  This batch is 13/16" long not including the handle.  (What is used for the Winnie).
 
Use these straight out of the bag. 
 
I should have some more sizes and these will be fully stocked in a few days.
 
 

 

Yes I do sleep!  I work most of the day on it.  It is a commission and I want to get it to him by Christmas.   My first ever attempt at rigging Bentinck shrouds.  

Welcome to my Bluenose log(s). Same model, two  manufacturers . One is a solid hull the other is another ship that Rodney gave me before he passed away.  I want them to look the same , so I will be painting  both hulls together. Thats why two for one.


Part One :
  The Scientific Bluenose.  It is a solid hull kit with old lead deadeyes and dories. Both have the same history..

First up is to open the box and see what I got.


The kit cost $16.95 in 1968, I paid $10.00.
I put everything in separate containers,  and looked at the plans .

The plans say to use a utility  knife and cut out the pieces.  I did one and then used the scroll saw for the rest.


Then I glued on the keel pieces 


Fitted the two decks, and glued them on. Applied some weight and let it dry. Tomorrow will be a lot of filling and sanding.  After I install the forward and aft Bulwarks, the hull will be ready for painting. Then I will do a part two and get the Billings Boat ready to paint as well.
Both will be copper hull red, as like  @John Ruy did with his Bluenose.  
I don't  know were PFCGP  is now, apparently he got arrested for being under the influence of alcohol in Texas 🤔.  He's not Canadian, come to think of it, I don't know what he is. But he is on a plane to somewhere and said find another Inspector  He will be hard to replace 

 It is glued down for the night, and meet Freddie Fisherman, my new ships inspector,  my good freind @Gabek printed out this for me, he had a pipe but ,,Gabe had a bit of a problem with it and pipe never printed right,  internet files not his lol. Anyway I personally like the non smoking Freddie,  more on him later.

wow what a frist post lol.  Thanks .
Knocklouder 
 

Wishing you a warm "Welcome Aboard" to Model Ship World.  You're in the right place with 000's of like-minded modelers. We don't just build wooden ship models.  There is also a dedicated section on MSW for non-ship models.  You'll also find models in wood, plastic, multi-media and paper.
 
About 60 years ago, I helped my neighbor work on his Billings kit of the Norske Love.  I was about 6 yr. old and not sure if I was much help.  If I recall correctly, the model came in two separate kits; one with the wooden parts and one for the fittings.  The Lion figurehead was just a block of wood that had to be hand carved by the builder.  I don't think that model was ever finished as my neighbor put the kit aside at the planking stage.  Too bad, the NL builds into a beautiful model.  There is also a build log for the NL on MSW by Nils Wilhelm.  You should be able find it in the Kit Built Models section listed by date of launch. 
 
Beautiful work on your dory.  Are planning to build the other kits in the Shipwrights Series?  I suggest that you build the Norwegian Pram and the Lobster smack before taking on the NL.
 
Welcome Aboard!
 

By the way I received this drilling positioner tool today. Looks very nice, well made all metal.
 
 

I placed many already built parts together today for this photo, but at this point, nothing is glued down or attached, all dry fit.
I painted some of the brass hardware which really hurt, because I really liked the look of the brass, but it did not work for "the Calypso look".   I am sure my fellow Calypso builders felt the same when painting over their brass parts..  Still working on the helicopter. 
I have put off gluing the upper deck down trying to decide if I should add LED lighting.  My wife has already determined that this size model will not end up or fit in our home, but end up in my other house, which is my art/painting studio. She said "what are you going to do? Go over to your studio at night to look at Calypso with the lights on?"   We had a good laugh over that.

 

I know what some of you are wondering...
 

Are those just planks? What kind of build log shows just plain walnut planks?
 
Any build log that features the Greyhound, that's what kind.
 
One of these humble 1mm by 4mm walnut planks began life as one of seven surplus 2mm by 4mm plank that Corel generously provided for reasons unknown, given that hardly any wood in the kit requires wood of these measurement.
 
At the same time, I need 1 mm by 4 mm walnut to build my own transom, given that the metal one Corel provided is slightly off in terms of shape.
 
Therefore, with the help of my patented X-Acto Knife and 400 grain sandpaper program, our patient lost half his body weight in under an hour! *
 
It was exactly what the ship needed. Although steps like these aren't quite as thrilling as building something new or getting something into the perfect shape, they nevertheless remain an important part of ship building.
 
*(I do not endorse this weight loss technique as a legtimate medical remedy for any condition.)
 
 

I discovered last night while installing the catheads that I had angled mine way too much, even if they did look roughly like the ones in the instructions.
 

 
Believing the instructions on this was simply a mistake.
 
After cutting out the slots in the bow for them, I had to make new catheads. Unlike the old ones, the new ones were vere slightly sanded to an angle.
 
Cutting out the slots was relatively easy. After measuring and cutting with an X-Acto knife, I used a file to sand the final bit to shape. I was worried about the potential to cut the slots too wide, but I was careful, and it worked.
 
It's fortunate I had extra wood to make a full seven catheads. Here's the finished product.
 

I am about ready to start planking the deck. But before starting that I have been making drawings of the deck fittings (deck furniture in the olden days) to determine what parts I need to have made from 0.005 inch (0.13 mm) brass with photo etching. Here are some examples.
 
This is part of the blueprint for the stern roller chock. All of the minesweeping cables pass through the rollers or blocks attached to the "arms" of the top piece.
 

 
This is just a small part of a large blueprint that gives the dimensions of all individual parts and a complete parts list. From this I made a CAD drawing of the assembly, and from it I can make 2D scale drawings of all the parts. I will make the pieces from 0.010 and 0.015 inch (0.25 mm and 0.4 mm) brass and solder them together.
 

 
 
 
Some of the assemblies are more challenging. Here is a side drawing of the minesweeping winch (for towed sweeps to clear moored mines).
 

 
I have top and end drawings as well. However, these drawings only give dimensions for the entire assembly, to be used for planning the mounting arrangement on the deck. No detailed and dimensioned drawings of individual parts are given, and there is no parts list. So I have to do a lot of measuring and calculating to guess the dimensions of all the parts not shown. I do have some photos, but they don't show many parts of the assembly.
 
Here are pictures of how far I have gotten so far. The light brown parts are the wooden mounting base that sits on the deck. The red parts are work in progress for the metal base of the winch. The gray parts are finished. And the rollers on top are close to the natural colors of the reddish-brown polyester coating on the nonmagnetic metal rollers.
 

 
 
This assembly sits forward of the stern roller chock and aft of the much larger winches and reels for the magtail (magnetic mine sweep cable) and the acoustic mine sweep cable (another very complex assembly!). The magnetic and acoustic sweep cables ride on the two large rollers at the top of the frame. The three large reels below are for the two long cables (left and right) to the pigs (floats) for the towed sweeps for cutting the cables of moored mines. The narrower center reel is for a shorter cable that tows a "kite" close behind the ship that pulls the moored sweep cables down deep just aft of the stern so the cables carrying the mine cable cutters will run under the mines to cut their mooring cables. All of these cables run through the stern roller chocks shown above.
 
I do have separate detailed dimensioned drawings of the winch motor, and it is perhaps the most complex part of the assembly. But I have simplified it greatly, leaving off details of bolts and screws. On the model the motor will be about 0.73 inch (18.5 mm) long so the tiny details are too small to make. The whole winch assembly will be 1.7 inch (43 mm) high, 2.2 inch (56 mm) wide and 1.5 inch (37 mm) long. Most of the parts will be made of brass, but I may 3D print the gypsy heads (if I had a lathe I could turn them out of brass). It will be a nice little model in itself.
 
There are about 30 separate deck fittings on the model, so I am just getting started!
 

Deck fittings can be such fun, Phil (or not!). 🙂
 
John

Good luck on your journey,  the Duchess of Kingston is a wonderful ship to built, the quality of the material and the great instructions are hands down the best I have ever done. One peice of advice hide the knight figurehead until the last possible  second to install lol 
Pulling up a chair as they say  hope you don't mined    
Bob  M.