cardensb

I recently opened up my Niagara kit, bought back in 2011, and began inventorying it, referencing the included instructions and plans. I immediate noticed I had an odd amount of cannonades and a missing ship bell; Modelshipways sent me a new package of carronades (they are a slightly different size than the originals) and a bell using their replacing missing parts app on their website. I recently realized if I am going to fully rig all the guns and spares, I don't have enough eye bolts or split rings. The instructions demonstrated how to make both with wire but the kit includes no extremely fine wire. I am going to write MS's customer service since their search engine does not resolve the part numbers and guessing that small size is a gamble. Part of my normal preparations are to come to this forum and skim recent build logs. There are several excellent logs here with great photography, excellent descriptions, everything you could ask for. I am using the following ones as my references: - Ablerson's build started in 2022 - 6ohiocav's build began in 2016 - mikiek's build began in 2015 My intent is to document significant challenges I had to work through along with other builders' challenges so the next new builder as one more place to reference when confused. I will periodically update here after I collect a few challenges and feel it is time to update. This post includes assembling the bulkheads, framing, installing laser cut pieces and beginning to plank. This kit is intended to be painted, the wood provided does not provide a dramatic look in the raw or even stained. ADVANTAGE: This allows the builder to use wood fillers like putty and scrap wood to fix mistakes easily as paint will cover it up. This makes a complex ship model, a nice one for someone that is new to ship building, a way to get stuff built quickly without worrying about the appearance until its time to paint. If you are a builder that likes the look of natural woods, you may find yourself replacing provided strip wood with other materials though. I normally hate to paint now instead using exotics like bloodwood and ebony, but the kit was purchased and I won't let it sit in storage forever (two more sitting in boxes). FRAMING. 1. Beard line. It was much easier to shape the beveled edge of the keel assembly before gluing in the bulkheads or permanently attaching the keel. The instructions show to carve and chisel wood to the breading line with the keel attached, I have yet to not accidentally damage a keel in this manner so I marked all lines before the keel was glued and used a simple sanding jig to have a more consistent angle and depth of wood removal. 2. Additional blocks between bulwarks. All logs I have skimmed included adding some size of additional support between bulwarks using additional softwoods. At a minimum, I think building up 2-3 bow sections is important to allow planking material plenty of surface area to adhere too. I placed narrow blocks between each bulkhead to where they would provide more glue surface area at the rounded edge while ensuring the center keel did not bend to the port or starboard accidentally (I had an early build end up with a twist due to I suspect, time to complete stabilization, humidity, and working one side completely then the other instead balancing support to each side. I think this blocks also help in the process of fairing the hull smooth by giving more surface area for your files or sanding methods. I skipped completing this fairing step for a while and intend to final shape it this weekend now that the "ceilings" are planked. 2b. Coaming support. I have not added coaming supports yet, if I could go back, I would do this before planking the inner bulwarks and then fair all the deck supports only once. 2c. Stern's shaped blocks. At the stern, I shaped a block for each side to fill the space above the deck line to the rail allowing an even shape for planking too along that distance. The kit calls for four total blocks below the deck line too. Now that I go back to the manual, a "fashion piece" is shown in Fig 2-6 that I have unconsciously ignored on the plans and manual. I hope that it does not mean my stern railing piece is still not wide enough. 3. Stern L-shaped framing pieces. These four pieces look the same but they have different angles and despite me labeling them as inner left, outer, left, etc... I somehow still had to cut them away because I installed the inners where the outers should be. Holding all of these while gluing to remain level is tricky. I used a small hand clamp on the top of each, binding them to a scrap of strip wood, forcing them to remain even. Abelson's log has excellent photos of what it should look like when done right the first time. 4. Mounting options. Before I plank the lower hull, I have added some support blocks, above the beard line, to allow screws to hold the brass pedestals in place since I don't thing the inner keel piece is wide enough to fully support wood screws. The kit does not provide any basing options (this is called out in the documentation though). I ordered two 1/4 inch wide opening pedestals from model shipways. Other builders have glued in small metal nuts for a screw through the keel. Just do something before you plank up access. PLANKSHEER and RAILING. 5. Laser cut pieces do not fit perfectly. As others pointed out, the laser cut parts due not quite fill the space completely (planksheer has gaps towards the bow) or the rialing is not wide enough to provide a small lip on each edges to include the stern piece. The stern piece is actually probably slightly undersized in length and width. Some builders option to use the provided part as a template to start from and replace the wood. Fundamental, I do not intend to buy a kit and replace all the provided wood and laser cut parts. I would have just bought plans and hardware from the multiple dealers out there. I opted to fill the gaps with strip wood and wood filler putty. Paint will be my ally. For the railing, after completing the above the whale planking and inner bulwarks, I added a 1/32 x 1/32 strip to each side of the railing. The kit includes 20 strips plus I had leftovers from other builds. GUN and SWEEP PORTS. 6. Framing the openings. Make a final shape desired block for each to place on the model and frame around. I did not, my gun ports are uneven and I am finding myself adding vertical strip wood to some and was filing away excess framing material on others. I knew better but did not take the time because I hate gluing the block in place if I use excess glue. Ideally, you have some scrap metal square stock that can be sized to the dimension for each opening. The stern gun ports are not square on the plans once planked but were framed the same unless you realized they are rhombus shaped early on. I used scrap materials from the laser cut sheets to build the side walls up allowing to be shaped to the size on the plans stern planking section. 6b. Painting too early. Painting above the wales and inner bulwarks or "ceilings" as the this kit calls them... Most builder's logs agree that painting early ends up being a waste of time because paint gets damaged during later steps. I do intend to paint before I install the deck or eye bolts. Your gut will be to paint the strips so you have a clean edge between colors, your gut is failing you this time. 6c. Testing gun ports fit. Before you install the railing, you should consider how you plan to do the decking so your gunports are tall for the carronades to fit. At least one builder added an additional 1/16th of strip wood on top of the framing and bulwarks to account for laying their deck out on thin plywood, card stock or replace the provided deck strips with something thicker. I plan to build my deck on manila folder material. I did assemble one gun and make sure it fits on a mock up with the 1/16th inch provided deck wood. PLANKING. 7. Missing second dimensions. Both the manual and sheet plans lack information on which strip wood should be used where in the planking process. Both only reference one dimension such as 3/64" thick plank. Abelson based his build on the provided materials and planned to use as this copied from his #6 log entry August 22, 2022: I am following his recommendations and so far above the wales and inside all line up pretty well. I did have to use one strip of slightly taller plank as I progressed towards the bow, I hope that is not a problem later as I don't know why my bow as a slight gain of about 1/16th inch beyond where the plans specify an additional strake in front of the forward gun port. I did not do any excessive shaping to the tops of the bulwarks, fearing I would break them off. I did install the rail before planking and it has a slight wave to it that was corrected with some woodworking skills. Again, I have not bothered to paint any of the strakes yet and will tape them off prior to deck installation for painting by hand, airbrush, or both. I am also aware that to rig the ship per the plans, the kit lacks enough blocks, variety of cordages, etc... 6ohiocav's log has an extensive shopping list within it. When I go back through his log, I will note here where it can be found. That's where I am after opening the kit a few months ago and only touching it occasionally because I have a lot of hobbies, a job and a family. I will add to the log when I gather more hard lessons learned to share. I appreciate the most recent three logs and will continue to use them as a reference.

Impressive build log. I recently began the Niagara MS kit myself. I am using your shopping list for the shortage of blocks, etc... It almost makes me want to not buy another complete kit again with the amount of stuff just not used or not enough of in the first place but I think I have two more unopened boxes of kits in storage. I share your thoughts on trying to avoid painting when possible and have embraced the exotic woods. I highly recommend bloodwood for inner bulwarks, coamings, etc... It is hard to bend at the bow if the bow has a harsh curve but thinning the planks and heating them seem to work. The Lumberyard in Ohio is my go to place for pre-milled stock. I don't know what type of saw they use but they do a better job than I can on my table saws and bandsaw. I also love ebony for a lot of the pieces like the rails, wales, and thr such. It does not bend well either. Your harvested cherry is beautiful, I bet it hurt to paint some of it. I have a block of cherry I harvested about 20 years ago for my dream scratch build. I also like how you tried to make jigs for repeat work and used power tools. I enjoy the individual filing and shaping sometimes by hand but other times, I really do wish i had a shorter tol rest for my lathe to turn spars, masts, etc... I have your build book marked and am learning from your work as I go.

6ohiocav's build log has a list. I think his log is the what I am reading in the NRG mag too. Good stuff. "Thanks for stopping in. It is good to know there is another Niagara builder out there. Here is a rough inventory on what I have purchased from Syren so far. Chuck sells his products in small plastic packs. What I am listing below refers to individual packs. RIGGING TAN .008 - 5 packs .012 - 6 .018 - 2 .035 - 1 BLACK .008 - 2 .012 - 2 .018 - 3 .025 - 2 .035 - 2 BLOCKS 3/32 SINGLE - 5 3/32 DOUBLE - 4 1/8 SINGLE - 4 1/8 DOUBLE - 3 5/32 SINGLE - 1 5/32 DOUBLE - 1 7mm CLEATS - 2 7mm CLOSED HEARTS - 1 3mm rigging hooks - 2 That is not a complete inventory, as I have a number of partially used packs, and am not finished rigging. That will however get you to where I am. When I am totally finished, if that day ever comes, I will be able to provide a more detailed inventory."

okay, well I did not see a comprehensive list in the first dozen...

I found about a dozen build logs on the site for this kit and many mention purchasing additional cordage, eye bolts, blocks, etc... Does anyone have a comprehensive shopping list of what they ended up purchasing to be satisfied? Mind sharing it? I have found myself digging into leftover strip wood from other models to adjust some of the laser cut pieces already and figured I need to order additional eye bolts and blocks soon but hate to pay for shipping twice if I can get an order to Syren, Bluejacket, MS, etc... once.

I recently started this kit and wished I had come here looking for build logs. Your log puts the instructions to shame. I found I was not the only one looking at strip wood provided, the instructions, and the plans and wondering what the inner bulwarks were planked with. I like your order of work, on my prior models, I seem to install eye bolts once seized to each cannon/carronade and drilling those holes with the deck in place is tough. I was torn on painting in stages like you did or just do it all once all the inner and outer planking is done. I have book marked your page and now it's my default instruction book.

I just scrolled through your log, I have the MS kit sitting in my pile of kits bought when they had a great sale about 10 years ago. I think this will be my next build based on your log. Echoing many others, love the amount of photos that are quality and clear. Also love the drawing on the plans for clarity. I really appreciate you identifying all the small eyelets and chock points needing mounted to the hull before starting to rig and find it difficult to get a pin vise in later. Any major lessons learned to pass along that did not get documented but as you reflect back to the early steps of the build? Some specific questions: 1. Frames and filler blocks: Any regrets for not using filler blocks entirely between all of the framing? (I had a keel take a bend during a break in planking years ago) 2. Additional purchases: Have you compiled a list of "must buy" additional parts or do I need to scroll back through? I would rather shop all at once if possible. I see you id'ed shortages of many smaller items that add up in shipping charges. 3a. Gun tackle: Do you like how the brass hooks turned out in the armament tackle assemblies for the time it was worth or should I stick with bending wire? 3b. Or should I skip the hooks completely and just attach the lines to the rings with a little glue like many of MS kit's have us do? (I like the hooks ideally but once done, not sure if it looks to busy or out of scale?) Or should I skip the gun tackle completely to reduce "deck clutter" 4. Copper plating: your photos of the real ship appears to have copper plating below the waterline, any recommendations to do it or not do it? I have done it on some and not others so it's not the repetition that makes me think otherwise. 5. What's next for you? You are into the rigging now, have you thought what is your next build? I like the Niagara for the different cannonades than I have done before but I really enjoy building frames so my follow-on will like be a one where each frame is cut from about four pieces of cherry locally harvested. I recently purchases the Washington Galley plans. I find myself thinking ahead as I finish up a Hannah build based on plans and a wood only kit from The Lumberyard that has been a work in progress for about 7 years. I wonder if I need to try a completely different style of ship to expand my skills like a viking longboat or an Egyptian ship from a two-thousand years ago.

In my box of leftover parts, I have a set of chainplate assemblies that a 3/16" dead eye from Model Expo fits into but the plate is a hard wire material. I am trying to find a way to insert the dead eye without damaging one side when squeezing it into the plate. Seeking suggestions. I have 16 of these assemblies that consist of a small "plate" with a ring at the bottom; a single section of wire chain link that is unsoldered to allow connecting the bottom plate to the ring on the plate and finally a soft metal plate with three holes that attach to the hull and to the chain link. They might be from the MS model 1:64 Prince de Neufchatel. My model looks like I may have figured it out once, years ago. Anyways, I am trying to press the wooded deadeye into the hard metal wire ring using a vise now and am damaging about every 3rd deadeye.

My list is not as thorough but here is how I have tackled it for the few I have fully rigged. 1. Install all eyebolts into the hull before installing guns or anything that may get in the way. Sometimes I attach a block and run a started line through it to tie it out of the way. Te starting threads allow me to just glue the actual line to the end and carefully pull it through later, only need a few inches (less is better to keep from getting confused) 2. As a general rule, I install all rigging from the center of the ship towards the edges and start at the front and work my way back. this means I am not trying to reach through standing rigging later to try and attach something or I have through through how I am going to reach a center line located block later (starter thread used) 3. Generally work bottom up. so I rig all the lower mast assemblies before moving up a layer. 4. On the bow spirit, I generally rig the entire assembly of wood sections together before installing it and make sure all blocks are in place for running rigging. 5. I have not actually used any sort of pre-rigging jig assemble holding thing yet so when I do my stays for example, I rig a left and then a right side while on the ship. I use a few sections of bent wire fitted to both dead eyes so my cord length is consistent. I do serve the cords prior to installing at the top of each mast assembly using a 3rd hand tool to hold the loop in one end while I whip/serve the middle where needed. Yes, so my ratlines are done on the ship. I just took an index card and drew a few lines spaced at the distance between "rungs" and clipped it below my work. I tied a few at a time and took a break. I tired to keep a little slack in them but was not always consistent. A jig will probably make it more consistent but I hate seeing all that thread wasted when tying off to a square frame. 6. I pre-rig all blocks to spars and if a block may be in a tough spot, I run a starter thread through it too. 7. All of my standing rigging is tied off at a pin or wherever it should then cut short. Later I coil a bunch of cord around a pair of finishing nails as a holder and leave a long enough tail to neatly wrap around the pin like it should appear. Hope that helps. I have an old build log on here where I posted lots of photos as I rigged the Prince de Neufchatel.

I hate having a ship model with no one on board so I am looking at wargaming miniature figures. Does anyone have any experience with them? I am looking at Old Glory brand 25mm figures trying to determine if they fit a 1:48 or 1:64 scale ship. I "war game" in 28mm scale and the brand (Warlord Games plastics), I use are too tall for either scale. Perry's Miniatures 28mm in plastic also seem a little too tall and do not have many poses that would work beyond altering an infantry based box set. (I have an American Infantry regiment set). Old Glory brand has sets with titles like "men climbing rigging", "pirate deck crew gunners", "AWI (American War of Independence) Naval Crew" (spelled Navel though) and "Swivel guns with crew". I don't have much experience with metal based figures. Before I spend $20 to $40 plus shipping, I was hoping someone else had tried these already and could provide feedback.

Appreciate the tip, I found the book on Amazon and ordered it. Pretty good progress over the weekend. I finished the inner bulwarks (bloodwood is a pain to work with, I had forgot how fragile it is even after a good steaming). I installed apple wood rail caps (opportunity to remember how to use and maintain by scroll saw). Cleaned up the gun ports so they are all the same size. cleaned up the exposed framing below the few rows of planking I had installed years ago. Began planking the quarterdeck above the cap line. Started shopping for pre-cut grating for the 5 hatches and 10 swivel guns. Now if I can just find where my wife hid my digital calipers so i can get some accurate measurements.

Our honeymoon was 11 years ago...

I don't know if my photos will remain available after this month, they were uploaded to photobucket and now the bucket wants to charge a fee for use. If you are looking for a photo described, message me and I will see where it is in a cloud or hard drive.

Mike - amazing build. I just picked back up where I stopped in 2016 on the Harold Hahn version and am referencing your log for some details I cannot figure out. I know build logs can be tedious so thanks for the extra effort.

I'm returning from about a seven year break and just picked up the box of Harold Hahn's "Hannah" based on his plans sold through The Lumberyard with a wood material kit for plank on frame. Apparently I stopped while planking the inner bulwarks but also had not planked the stern. I cannot find any pictures or diagrams of how the stern should look. Did your kit include anything? I think I have all my blueprints displayed again but no stern view.... I started to make a punch list to re-orient myself to the model. -Plank transom and stern -Figure out how to get the keel to fit past the inner planks. then fabricate rudder attaching strips/hinges (I cannot remember the term) -Steam and finish inner bulwark planking then clean up gun ports. -Clean up glue residue below planking where I am going to leave lower framing exposed. -Sort and ID remaining strip wood from the box - it appears that I have some that does not go with my build... pine planking??? -Figure out the deck furniture builds before planking deck to know what will be exposed or not. How many cannons to build if partially decked?

Retired Army guy here so I did quite a few moves across the USA. I custom built moving crates for each ship from scrap lumber and found plywood. I built each case so I had 4-6 inches space around the outer edges of each model. I built cradles for the hulls that screwed to the base and then drilled 1/2 inch holes along a line that was just beyond the hull. Two moves, I laced paracord carefully through the model, passing through lines and making sure no line was up against anything that would break using the 1/2 holes in a plywood base as my attaching point. Two moves I used zip ties as a different method that did not need me pulling 20 feet of cord over a railing. The sides of the cases were often just heavy cardboard staple gunned to the framing. I left the top open so handlers could see what moving but most moves, I packed them in my own box trailer with cushions from patio furniture as additional padding. One year I dumped a bunch of packing peanuts inside but did not seem to make a difference. My last move was more along the line of the rolled towels in the back seat of my pick up with pillows around them and did not bother with the crates. Worked fine for about a one hour drive on I-95. For ships without tall masts and rigging like admiralty models or works in progress, I really just wrapped with the small bubble bubble wrap and made sure to mark this side up with tape in case I had anything on the deck that may come lose and get lost. Those got laid into a large box with pillows and other random items from the basement.

Well, It has been almost two years since I updated the journal. My PdN has been completed for almost a year and a half and I completed LSS's Fair American during this time. Now that I am in the middle of leave and my household goods have shipped to my next assignment, I find myself with lots of time to provide an update. In July 2012, I moved on to the main mast installation and rigging. The main is much simplier than the fore, none of those mysterious lines to figure out and I had worked out my techniques for ratlines, serving, etc... I did however, run out of rigging lines and had to order more. I installed the stays and shrouds in pairs and added the horizontal planks to the shrouds. I decided to exceed the model kit in a few places such as the hearts being added. (It appears I have forgotten how to have my images orient properly' they look fine on photobucket...) The ratlines went fast due to my index card that was marked for spacing. although I did have some sliding since I was not gluing each knot as I progressed. The upper ratlines got tight as expected but were not too bad. Here is an in progress photo taken on the 17th. This week ended with a decision to sew sails and add them causing some changes such as having to remove the rings from the masts and fashion new ones as well as more research into how a sail is actually fashioned, attached and manipulated. As I reveiw my excel spreadsheet daily journal, I loved my comment "I love ratlines" and also noticed this was the week after our honeymoon (finally) in New Orleans.

Rob Welcome to the AVS ranks! I really enjoyed this kit and learned a lot from my mistakes. Here are a few things I learned. 1. Install spacers on the bulkheads and their extensions. 2. Make sure the plywood sits level and slopes as required. I did not and after installing my decking and planking the bulwarks, my cannons did not sit well. 3. Spend the time studying plans looking for eyebolts that will be needed later and at least pre-drill the holes. Install if possible. Trying to fit a pin drill in later may be difficult. 4. Pre-rig the cannons as much as possible before gluing in place. 5. When installing the rigging, I found it easier to work from the center of the ship outward once you get the shrouds in place. Enjoy! I became addicted after the AVS.

Bill Another option is 3D printing. A gentlemen on Shapeways.com has a set of cannons for the Hannah. I contacted him offline and asked him if it were possible to change the scale and quantity. He is going to adjust to my needs and re-post. You could have them printed with a black material so clean-up would not require touch up.

Philo426 - this sounds like a disaster for one of those women! I have tried the microwave method with planks in paper towels and also in bowls of water. My only problem is when trying to do a longer plank than will fit. I have found tall, skinny vases filled with hot water from a tea pot of coffee maker work great. Once soaked I clamp the plank into a wooden mold that came with a starter model ship tool kit. I gave up on the plank bender that came with the kit. I ended up just scorching the plank each time.

I often wonder how many build logs are just never completed. I know I followed one that had a two year break. The builder had something happen in life that made him put the kit down for a while. I know I am lazy on the logs. it takes time to properly capture our work and then turn that into a journal that others can follow. I know I still have more work on my second to last build which was stretched out over several years due to a long break. I was lazy and did not photograph the rigging and sail construction as much as I wanted. I have since completed another model and never documented anything beyond hours spent on it since there were more than one logs on the same kit already here. If you want feedback and help, the log is a big plus. As a first time builder about 8 years ago, I would have loved to have known this site existed to use other logs as reference and to ask for clarification.

The lower masts did not recieve much documentation. They were pretty straightforward. I did create the rings for the sails to be attached too by laminating strips of brown paper from a grocery bag around a same size dowel rod. This modification would later be removed when I decided to sew my own sails and replace the rings with wire. Here is the base of the main mast. Here is the bowsprit getting a stay attached. The lower fore mast is barely in the shot. Here is the lower fore mast getting a shroud attached. My shrouds were partially rigged with a third hand tool to help with the serving. Then I would run the line through the trestle, sew a few loops on it and serve it on the model. Finally, I would measure the second side of the shroud and serve it on the model. Not the most efficent method but everything stayed even and taut. The upper masts were shaped and added. Intersting point about the PdN, she has extra standing rigging. This frustrated me and I turned to several fourms for help. The rigging plans had so many lines on them, I could not tell what went where towards the trestle areas. I took a break to build and then rig the spars. All were unpainted and clear coated with poly. Here is a photo of boom jaws and a trestle. Here are photos of many of the masts and spars assembled. This is my first multi-masted ship to rig. I put the smaller spars in ziplocks with their part numbers on them so I would not put them in the wrong place. The plans are hard to follow and I ended up re-rigging several shrouds and stays. For reference here is how I rigged my fore mast. pairs 1&3 go to the platform and will have ratlines attached. pair 2 goes to the top mast. pair 4 is a stay that goes to the platform and is not rigged with ratlines. pair 5 goes to the platform and was rigged with ratlines. pair 6 goes to the fore mast tree as a stay and pair 7 went to midway up the topgallant mast as a stay. The main mast was simply with 3 pairs of shrouds and 1 pair of stays. I temporarily tied stays in place to make sure everything remained orderly. Well, it is late. I will add more when I have time. I need to show rigging the tops, ratlines, running rigging and sails. I probably need to photograph her completed too still. I know I did not allow any photos of me operating the sewing machine. lol.

For the rest of Spring 2012, I worked on the ship's boats, anchors and started on the lower masts. I enhanced the model with cannonball racks too. I took a short break for a training exercise, my wife had surgery and we sprung a leak in our second home that was being prepared to be sold that ended up costing us a lot of time to repair the water damage. Water leaked from a second floor toilet pipe through the floor that had been stripped for new tile, through the first floor ceiling (ruined in living room and kitchen), through the brand new hard flooring (causing 100% replacement on the first floor) through the subfloor and into the crawlspace ruining much of the insulation. Here is a photo showing the stern davits that I added based on pictures on a book on the same ship. Here is a picture showing one anchor in storage and some of the cannonball racks. The cannonballs are 4mm beads found at Hobby Lobby. Notice, I replaced all the brass eyebolts with black wire that I shaped myself instead of having to paint them all. Here is a photo of the waist. Here is a photo showing the ground tackle or anchor rigged in a stored position. You can also see the additional rigging added to the gunport hatches. Here are several photos of the ship's boats under construction. I built the one provided with the kit and bought an additional one from Model Shipways. Both were built at the same time. Here is the larger one on it's frame assembly. Here is the small one on it's frame assembly. Here is one of them removed from the frame and partially planked. The planking was quick and required minor shaping. I regret not taking enough photos. I planked as in the plans. The I installed the rails, seats. and stratchbuilt accessories. Here is the stern boat attached. This was the larger one which was bought separetly. Here is the kit provided boat on the deck. Note the addition of oars, masts, sail cloth, coils of rope and you might be able to see a small grapple hook towards the bow which was made from four short lengths of thin wire.

Hello I am am closing in on the last chapter and thought I would offer up some more comments and answer your questions. #1 I did not start a log on this build, his site had several already before the data loss and I figured I would just add to them like now. I have some general notes which show I am currently at 145 hours of work and on the chapter for finishing the quarterdeck, installing the rudder. #2 The ebony and bloodwood were not too difficult to work with overall. I did have some some issues with shaping the inner bulwarks planks and had a few random chips in the bloodwood. Luckily, I found the chips and was able to glue them back on. Eventually, I will psot some photos. #3 I really wish I would have installed the cabin lower deck beams before the main deck's beams. Turns out I removed too much from the inside and the beams sat about 1/8 inch lower when using the ladder assemblies as a reference. Next build, I will know better. Today, as I was layering up planks for a partial cabin floor I thought "why did you not just install a shelf along the frames like you did fore the main deck and shim the gaps?" I could have covered the shims with a plank on each side... #4 I decided to make the gungeons and pintles functional. I cut the brass tubes in half and used pins inside them as the hinge pin. I superglued the brass strips around the hinges' barrels and into the notch in the rudder which I made a little deeper than in the plans to compensate for the additional material. The brass supplied had been indented at bend points which during attachment proved to be weak points that broke so all the effort was for a little less since I ended up gluing more than I wanted so the rudder does not move now. I did install pins through the gungeons on the rudder as I have on previous builds.Since the brass is so fragile, I decided not to try it on the sternpost though. I am currently rigging the rudder assembly and added a rudder chain assembly tonight.