jablackwell

The length of the struts will depend on the placement and angle of the cabane struts. Make sure these are properly placed and angled out appropriately to match their attachment points in the upper wing. Once those are in place, you can attach the upper wing and check into the length of the interplane struts. These came out very close to their planned size for me, maybe a mm off. You have to cut them a little long in order to file them to a wedge fit into their parts CAW42. They should be tight, as in they will "lift" the lower wing a bit and they will attempt to pull down the upper wing onto the cabane struts tightly. They shold not bend the upper wing... that's too tight ;-)
 
~john

Hi Mike,
 
The instructions for this state:
"Create the lower wing dihedral by tapering
the bottom ends of the front and rear spars
so that when they are rejoined by parts
CAW38 and CAW39 they will lie flat within
the cast joints and the underside of the
outermost ribs(CAW06) will be elevated
25/32" above the work surface."
 
This means that you have to file or sand down the BOTTOM side of the lower wing's spar at the point where it attaches to the metal casting.  I used two small wood blocks, each 25/32" high, placed under the last wing rib to get the angle set correctly.  When I built the lower wing, my wing sides were not connected. The long wooden spar piece was left in two parts, with the center disconnected. That way, I did not have to saw them apart later. If you built this as one large wing, you will have to separate them into left and right wings using a knife or saw, being careful to cut precisely in the middle of the two spars. Images attached for you.
 
~john
 
 
 
 

Top and bottom wing now have tensioners. The trailing wing edge has been added. Ailerons have been separated from the wings (using a small XActo saw... very nerve wracking). Now to hinge the ailerons and then move onto the fuselage. 
 
~john
 
 

The top wing has been polyurethaned (silk finish without color). I am now starting the arduous work of capping the wing ribs, lovingly, one by one. This will take some time. Please stand by ;-)
~john
 
 

Congratulations! Lovely build. Thanks for letting me follow along.
~john

Well, that about wraps it up. The following pictures were taken by my daughter with a better camera than I have, so I'll use them even though there's a few odds and ends that need to be finished when these shots were taken. Namely the barrels need to be lashed and rope coils needed on a few davits.
 
I purchased a case, for what I though was a reasonable price, from a gentleman who runs a site called Grandpa's cabinets. You can customize size, wood choice, and finish, and it comes complete with high quality plexiglass. Assembly is simple. I also purchased a nice, unfinished table that will serve as the display table. I'll post some final pictures when the table and case are set up. Right now I need to finish the new base, and I'm waiting on a nameplate that I ordered.  
 
Anyway, I really enjoyed this build. I think it's a sharp looking vessel, and I'm a little surprised how few KC's are on this site.  So it's my first completed ship build. (I'm not going to count the Taurus, and Benjamin W Latham I built almost 50 years ago as an early teen. I think the Taurus is still sitting around my mom's house, but the Latham is nowhere to be found. 
 
  I learned a ton about model building, and whaling. It's been a great journey. Not only did this build lead me to this site, it lead me to a great club, The ship Model Society of New Jersey. 
 
 I've taken advantage of Model Shipways end of season sale and picked up the Pride of Baltimore 2 for a50% off, so that's on it's way and will be the next project. 
 
Thanks to everybody who checked in, and for all the likes along the way. Special thanks to this site, as I would have never been able to complete some things without the help and knowledge of the members here. This place is a wealth of information and the contributors are great. . 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No solder-easy-brass working gun port hinges.....
 
So I like to get the port lids done early before I put the cannons in.  The main reason is that I build the lids within their respective openings.  This would be impossible after the cannon are in place.  This is something you guys can do at anytime and you dont have to wait for chapter 5.  You guys probably have all the materials to get these lids done.
 
So first the lids...
 
I think someone may have asked this question a while ago.  But you know how you see a port lid on a contemporary model and it isnt just a flat square but actually is conformed to the shape of the hull.  A port lid can be curved which is something you rarely see on a kit model.  Fortunately for us the lids arent that extremely shaped.  But the one at the bow will need to have each layer or strake of the lid pre-bent just like the hull planking.
 
To explain....you must keep the run of the hull planking in each port lid.  Thus it is best to use 1/4" x 3/64" strips to build the lid up.  In the photo below you can see how I cut the first two strakes and trimmed them so they fit tight in the port opening.  Then I glue them together edgewise right in the port opening.  I do simulate the seam between each segment with a pencil just like we did when planking.  The last piece for this lid is sitting on top of the sheer rail.

With the lid glued up I remove it and sand the outside and inside surface smooth.  Dont do this while its in position because you will screw up the finish on the hull planking.  It will be hard to get the finish to match in the area you recently sanded.  Then there is the matter of the second inboard layer or the lid lining.   This is done with strips too....or you could just cut one piece that fits.  In the case of the lining it is 1/32" thick.  Its cut to shape so a rabbet is left on the bottom and the sides.   To finish it up paint the inboard side red along with the edges of the port lid.
 

Then put it back in position on the model....make sure it still fits nice.  Apply a finish of wipe on poly to the outboard side.  In some cases the frieze will need to be added as well.  Just like hanging wallpaper, you must match the pattern.

Making the port lid hinges...
 
There are many advantages to making brass hinges from scratch.  Mostly because the photoetch ones available are either shaped funny or two wide.  They just never look right to my eye.  So here is how I make them.  You will need a brass strip 1/16" wide and 1/64" thick.  K&S used to sell these.   These wont be supplied by me so this is something you have to get.  You can cut strips from a brass sheet if needed as well.  Looking at the photo from top to bottom....some finished hinges on top

Then step one....on the top of the lineup...
 
The first thing I do is drill a hole through the end of the brass strip.  Use a #74 drill bit.   Then I round off the end around that hole which will become the bottom of the hinge.
 
Step 2...Using a flat file, I file a tapered angle into the strap just above the drilled hole.   You dont have to file too deep.  Just enough to make a gradual taper in the hinge.  Then I round off the end so it looks like a small circle on the bottom of the hinge around the hole.  This step is also optional.  You can go with a straight hinge that just has the bottom rounded.  Its up to you.  But I think these look nicer.
 
Step 3...Measure the length of the hinge by using the plans.   Mark this on the brass strip.  Now its time to file a little tail into the top end of the hinge.  This is easy enough.  Using a flat needle file just file half of the width of the brass strip away.  This resulting tail should be about 5/32" long.
 
Step 4...Use a needle nose to roll up the tail to make a loop.  Just like you do when you are making an eye bolt.  Make the resulting hole in this pretty small so a 24 gauge wire can snugly fit into it....more on that later.  But here is the real trick to this.  Before you bend that tail into a loop, file the tail down even thinner.  Just the tail.  This makes it easier to get a nice small loop on the top of the hinge.  It also keeps the finished hinge from looking to too bulky and chunky.  Hope that makes sense.  Thats it......repeat to make 20 hinges.   But remember to make left and right pairs.   Each lid gets a left and a right as you will see in the photos.  It just means make the loop in the tail in the other direction on the top of the hinge.  Blacken all of the hinges when you are done.

Now in the photo above...with the port lid in position, You can glue the hinges to the lid.   Try and keep them even.  Try and keep them the same height etc.
 
Then remove the lid as shown below.  This is where you will drill a hole into the lid through the hole you made in each hinge.  I had made the very tiny eyebolts with 28 gauge black wire.  On these I added split rings that I made from 24 gauge black wire.  I made the split rings by wrapping the wire around the shank of a #50 drill bit.  Then I sawed them down the shank to part off nice split rings all to a very uniform size.   These split rings were carefully inserted into the tiny eyebolts I made and were ready to glue into the holes in the bottom ends of the hinges.  I was careful not to drill through the lid or push the tail of the eyebolts through the lids.  I didnt want them breaking through to the inboard side.
 
Lastly....create some tiny "L" shapes from 24 gauge wire which will be used to secure the lids in position.   But before you place them into the hinge straps.....place the lid back in the port opening so you can drill the holes where those little "L's" will go.   Drill the holes close to the hinge straps.  Note the left and right hinge straps on the lid.   This is done so the little "L's" are both on the inside.  Then you lid will never fall off after you glue it on the hull.

Here is a photo of the lids done on the starboard side.   I will keep them closed until I am ready to add the cannon to avoid damaging them.  Now to repeat this on the other side.  Any questions....I dont think I forgot anything.  That was a lot to write in one post!!!

You want to make another one!!!!   🤣  LOL
 
Truth be told....I almost chose Minerva instead.   But Winnie won out because of the wealth of primary source info.
 
By the way....the Minerva is also another 5th rate with just 3 lids aft and just one up at the bow.  Look closely at that forward lid.....note how the lid curves like the bow.   You need to pre-bend those little pieces before you make the lid.  Although not that much as I suspect that lid is curved even more due to age and warp.
 

An update, since it has been a long while. As many of us have noticed, the world is in a bit of chaos right now. My job and life surrounding my family and job have been really... "wild"... and unpredictable. I am still working (good), teaching astronomy and physics (good, too) and almost all remote (also good). I got back to the Syren build this week, which has me excited and happy. It offers some respite from the world's craziness. Right now I am continuing with the boxwood planking above the wales. I've decided to finish off one side first, perfect my methods then work on the other side... maybe the second side will be more presentable! Ha! So that places me some place in the early stages of chapter 5 on the build. One...plank...at...a...time 😉
 
~john
 
 
 

The benches are pretty simple as well.  You just want to follow the curve of your transom.  This might be different slightly from model to model.  First,  you add one of the bench sides to the side of the rudder trunk.  See below.   Note how the top aft point of the side is even with the break along the inboard counter.  
 
At the same time,  assemble the front panel for the bench with the other side.  Have it ready to glue into position.  It will sit on top of the lower counter.  But you can see how the front panel is actually up on the lower counter and not actually on deck.  This is correct.   The benches will not extend all the way to the bulwarks.
 
keep in mind that the bottom of the front panel is beveled so it will fit snug along the forward edge of the bench on top of the curved counter.
 

To finish it off,  add the tops of the benches.  Bevel the back edge so it fits the counter.  It really finishes off the great cabin nicely. The bench tops overhang ever so slightly along the front edge and of course the ends as well.
 

 
 

An update, since it has been a long while. As many of us have noticed, the world is in a bit of chaos right now. My job and life surrounding my family and job have been really... "wild"... and unpredictable. I am still working (good), teaching astronomy and physics (good, too) and almost all remote (also good). I got back to the Syren build this week, which has me excited and happy. It offers some respite from the world's craziness. Right now I am continuing with the boxwood planking above the wales. I've decided to finish off one side first, perfect my methods then work on the other side... maybe the second side will be more presentable! Ha! So that places me some place in the early stages of chapter 5 on the build. One...plank...at...a...time 😉
 
~john
 
 
 

An update, since it has been a long while. As many of us have noticed, the world is in a bit of chaos right now. My job and life surrounding my family and job have been really... "wild"... and unpredictable. I am still working (good), teaching astronomy and physics (good, too) and almost all remote (also good). I got back to the Syren build this week, which has me excited and happy. It offers some respite from the world's craziness. Right now I am continuing with the boxwood planking above the wales. I've decided to finish off one side first, perfect my methods then work on the other side... maybe the second side will be more presentable! Ha! So that places me some place in the early stages of chapter 5 on the build. One...plank...at...a...time 😉
 
~john
 
 
 

I painted all the yards, stunsail booms, gaffs, etc and rigged all the blocks, pendants and stirrups that have to go on the yards,  hoping I did not miss any because it would be more difficult to rig them when the yards are in place.  I also fitted the horses but as you can see from the photos they are not adjusted correctly.  The outer end of the horse is tied to the yard accordingly, passed through the eyes of the stirrups, but the inner end I left loose around the yard.  I will adjust these to the correct position with a sagging effect and tie properly the end of the horse just before I fit the yards in place.  I made the stirrups from 0.5mm black coated copper wire I already had.  It had a shiny look so I painted them mat black.  I was thinking of making them from thread, but I think it would be a bit difficult for them and the horses to keep the right shape. 
 
Blocks rigged to yard before fitting the stunsail booms to the yards.

 
 
Rigging the two buntline blocks and the tye block that go in the centre of the topmast yard.

 

 

 
Foremast Yards

 

 

 
 
Mainmast Yards

 

 

 

 
 
Mizzenmast Yards

 

 

 
 
Now, that I know that I have the yards ready when I come to them I have to concentrate on the wok that still has to be done on deck and on the hull before I start the rigging, such as the fire buckets and the hammock crane nettings.  I have ordered some very small decals of the monogram that goes on the fire buckets.  But unfortunately it is taking some time.  
 
Robert

Good to see you back in the shop. I've found throughout this year that getting in the shop brings a little sense of normalcy in these otherwise "not normal" times. 

An update, since it has been a long while. As many of us have noticed, the world is in a bit of chaos right now. My job and life surrounding my family and job have been really... "wild"... and unpredictable. I am still working (good), teaching astronomy and physics (good, too) and almost all remote (also good). I got back to the Syren build this week, which has me excited and happy. It offers some respite from the world's craziness. Right now I am continuing with the boxwood planking above the wales. I've decided to finish off one side first, perfect my methods then work on the other side... maybe the second side will be more presentable! Ha! So that places me some place in the early stages of chapter 5 on the build. One...plank...at...a...time 😉
 
~john
 
 
 

An update, since it has been a long while. As many of us have noticed, the world is in a bit of chaos right now. My job and life surrounding my family and job have been really... "wild"... and unpredictable. I am still working (good), teaching astronomy and physics (good, too) and almost all remote (also good). I got back to the Syren build this week, which has me excited and happy. It offers some respite from the world's craziness. Right now I am continuing with the boxwood planking above the wales. I've decided to finish off one side first, perfect my methods then work on the other side... maybe the second side will be more presentable! Ha! So that places me some place in the early stages of chapter 5 on the build. One...plank...at...a...time 😉
 
~john
 
 
 

Tryworks tools and lances.
I made the handles using a drawplate and running bamboo through it to about .03" or about 3" diameter. The strainer is made out of a thin brass ring and the base is a piece of styrene filed to fit. The holes are #78 drill bit. The lances are 32 gauge steel wire. The tips are just punched flat om an anvil and shaped a little with files. 

 

 
The bucket is also a piece of brass tube, and the "poker" laying across the cooper's bench was made out of a thin needle, with the eye cut opened and turned a bit to look like the tool in one of the above posts from New Bedford. 
 

More whalecraft....

 
Here's some loaded in a boat. 
 

 

 
I still need the second line tub for each boat, and it looks like I have enough room under the forward 3 thwarts for a waif, and maybe a boat hook, and boat spade. 

Thanks for joining the build, John and Grant. 
Good point about scale. I'll post a couple of images here for you to give an idea of the size-of-things. The little charcoal cube is 1cm. 
The model is  3/4" = 1'  (1:16) scale of the F.1 Sopwith Camel. The wingspan will be 534mm (21") and the longitudinal length (prop to empennage) 584mm (about 14"). 
Construction materials: basswood, brass, Britannia metal, steel, rubber tubing, copper tape and tubing, thread. 
 
 

The prop is made from a laminate of laser-cut pieces, then sanded to shape.
 

John:
I enjoyed following your construction of the Sopwith Camel.  I also built one and it was a challenge for my 84 year-old fingers and eyes.  But I got through it pretty well.  160 hours of work.  I just wasn't able to hook up the control cables to the stick and rudder pedals  but it doesn't show.
I grew up in Salem (NH) and got a Civil Engineering degree at UNH and moved west.  Worked for the City of San Diego for 40 years and retired in 1999.  Never missed the New Hampshire winters!  Over the years I have returned in Octobers to enjoy the beautiful foliage.
Regards,
Bob Cain

Topsail yard in place. It sure is getting crowded under the top with all those lines running through the fairlead holes. I used a row of 2.5mm wooden bulls eyes to serve as the fairleads under the top, and on the shrouds.  The fore tac, and clew line, and the braces are left off to allow a little better access to the rails on the deck to belay all these lines. For now, they are run through the belaying pin holes with extra length, and the pin in each hole to hold the lines there. 
 
 

 

Work is moving along. All yards have been completed and hung! Each is complete with all reef, bunt, leach, lifts, and sheets. The braces have not been added yet. They will wait until I make the rope coils for the pin rails. The braces, along with the fore tack/clew garnet/and fore sheet rig would inhibit access to the deck. I'm happy to report there were only a few minor setbacks in the process. I knocked the boom's main topping lift, and had to re-rig that whole thing. I also managed to burn part of the topgallant halyard tackle trying to "de- fuzz" the royal clew line. I used a different thread for the royal clew...a .005 white line from Bluejacket dyed to match Chuck's light brown line. Brown  Rit dye did the trick, but the line was way "fuzzier" than Chuck's superb line. So I tried to pass a lighter over the .005 line, and the topgallant halyard caught fire. I spliced it by using a little CA on the ends, slicing both end on a diagonal, then a dab a CA, and rolled the two lines together in my thumb and forefinger.  Came out OK. I can't even tell exactly where the slice is in the maze of rigging under the fore top. 
 
Next up is making all the rope coils. I'll be experimenting with different methods, but as of right now I'm leaning towards following Tom Lauria's method on You tube. 
So that brings me to here....
 

 

 
A look at the tryworks and some running rigging at the pinrails. Some hanging threads on the backstay that have to be trimmed off. I had to re-tension the backstay after knocking the bowsprit and the forestays numerous times during rigging. Luckily tightening up the backstays took care of the forestay's sag. 
 

 

 

To hang the jolly boat from the rear davits a few steps are necessary: I need to get the rudder pendants out of the way, close the gun ports, hang the jolly boat from the davits and relocate/ re-tackle the long guns. As a first step of course a lot of destruction is necessary . . .
 
Img 1 shows the initial solution for the rudder pendant. With this solution on my Syren the rudder pendants and the tackles for the jolly boat would have touched each other where they crossed (img 2). To avoid this I used a slightly different solution for the rudder pendants, which can be found on a lot of models and follows in general the guidelines from Steel (img 3). This solution moves the crossing points of the rudder pendants to a part of the davits, which has a stronger slope and which allows to have the ropes cross each other without touching: the rudder chain is moved outward and hung from three hooks on each side of the rudder (imgs 4-5). Each rudder pendant is attached to a ring at the end of the rudder chain via a moused hook with a ring splice and a thimble (img 6). Imgs 7-8 show details of the implementation.
 
Thomas
 
 

 
Image 1
 

 
Image 2
 

 
Image 3
 

 
Image 4
 

 
Image 5
 

Image 6
 

 
Image 7
 

 
Image 8
 
 

John between you and Mike Dowling I have gotten to this point thus far. I ended up using gap filling CA on the motor parts and it has seemed to work nicely. I did do a black wash on the engine to take away some of the "brightness" of the metal. 
 
Best regards,
Ray