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Senior ole salt got a reaction from IgorSky in International Dragon Class II by captainbob - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Nice job Bob. All ya need now are a suit of sails a bit of lead and a nice pond to sail her in.
SOS
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from Omega1234 in International Dragon Class II by captainbob - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Nice job Bob. All ya need now are a suit of sails a bit of lead and a nice pond to sail her in.
SOS
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from augie in Loving your model...
I find myself and some work on my present build. taking the hull on my lap or between my legs to hold the hull in place during some application. Any body else do the same ? Or shouldI see my shrink ?
BTW I do have various vises.
SOS
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from WillB in Loving your model...
I find myself and some work on my present build. taking the hull on my lap or between my legs to hold the hull in place during some application. Any body else do the same ? Or shouldI see my shrink ?
BTW I do have various vises.
SOS
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from tasmanian in Loving your model...
I find myself and some work on my present build. taking the hull on my lap or between my legs to hold the hull in place during some application. Any body else do the same ? Or shouldI see my shrink ?
BTW I do have various vises.
SOS
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Loving your model...
I find myself and some work on my present build. taking the hull on my lap or between my legs to hold the hull in place during some application. Any body else do the same ? Or shouldI see my shrink ?
BTW I do have various vises.
SOS
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Senior ole salt reacted to NenadM in Cutty Sark by NenadM
Little pillars/ribs under foredeck rail, on both sides. Hell's work, but it worth any second. Wholr look of foredeck rises up
And then, front pinrail, and ... pins
Pinrail was not problem, but pins were, particulary considering they has to be equial to pins on main deck ( 1000 of them).
So I must think about massproduction of pins
In mean time, fortunaty, I remembered that there are cleats under pinrail, and that will be imposible to put them when pinrail gets in its place. So, three cleats/eye ... fixed and glued at the root of bowsprit. Not a big deal, them were prepared earlier during bowsprit works
Pin first attack was by 1mm brass wire, but this wire is so thick, and whole structure doesn't look well - crowded and too much massive
Then I tried with 0,5mm brass wire, and isolation from Cu telephon wire 0,5mm (my favorite, before I discover brass wire 0,5 mm)
After painting
And on place
I
Hmmm, maybe it can be better
And new feel and look of foredeck
Conclusion : pinrail has to be little thinner, and pins have to be little longer
That's all for today, at 39℃ in shade
I earned my cold beer ... bear ... beer ... whatever
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from Salty Sea Dog in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Fantastic workmanship.I love to see all the models posted here.
SOS
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from IgorSky in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Fantastic workmanship.I love to see all the models posted here.
SOS
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from Piet in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Fantastic workmanship.I love to see all the models posted here.
SOS
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from mtaylor in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Fantastic workmanship.I love to see all the models posted here.
SOS
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Senior ole salt reacted to mtaylor in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Still hammering away... Thanks for the likes and comments.
Here's the latest pics. Starboard side wide wale planking is complete. Needs final sanding and bit more caulking ( ) of some planks that I didn't quite get fitted right. Relatively minor fix, in my opinion. the splotchiness is from wiping it down with water to raise the grain for the final sanding. An interesting effect is that not all Swiss Pear is the same color.. some is darker than the others. Interesting.
Next comes the narrow planks. per measurements, I need 28 strakes. Seven strakes at the stern to the deadwood so I need to take those into account as they are 9" planks on the counter to the deadwood. After that, they can be wider as they run to the garboard. The bow will need serious tapering and I'm starting to mark everything out.
Any tips, oops, or advice appreciated.
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from vaddoc in Symphony by Omega1234 - FINISHED - 1/200 scale - 112' Ketch
Oh!! to miniaturizing one self and sail aboard these vessels.
SOS
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Senior ole salt reacted to mtaylor in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Here's the close up pic I promised.... I'm not done sanding or "caulking"/crack filling yet and there's sawdust all over... but you should be able to see how the ebony flows and fills the area between fore end of the channel (the open spot) and the main wale and how the main wale planking is all blended together. The wide planks (wale planks) are all about 1 foot wide, actually a bit more since the French foot was bigger than the English foot. The rest of the planking is approximately 9 inches wide, and again, it's slightly larger than the comparible English planking.
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from Omega1234 in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
Another word for scuppers. Notes on the plan call for them to be 3" high X 36" long to be between frames on the main deck in the region of what could be call "the waist".
SOS
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
Still making progress. The transom has been carved to the curve shown on the plan ( or there abouts) I carved it using a cardboard template as a guide. (see image.)
Notice in the image I first cut out for the window, before any shaping was done. The transom is carved from a scrap and provided a "handle". ( It could have been longer) This for me makes the process easier. I used gouges , rasps chisels and lots of sanding. Trial fits were frequent as well as working towards the desired thickness. The template allows me to re-establish the transom outline after sanding or whitling. After getting reasonably close to the desired shape I pinned it on the stern to get an idea how it all looked.
Glueing it on the stern resulted some "rubber band clamping anchored by my "vise block", as well as a conventional clamp.
After the glue sets up, I'll do some more shaping, filling and trimming as I deliberately made the whole thing a bit bigger.
Next comes the windows and inside "glass."
SOS
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Senior ole salt reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Forward Bulkheads Finishing
As the bulkheads were completed the framing for the upper deck was added :
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Senior ole salt reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Fore Platform and Bulkheads
There are three separate Fore Platform floors - the fore and aft floors are on a similar line, but the central one (the Coal Hole) is 1 foot lower. Note that there are two parts to the fore floor. It is intersected by the Foremast Step.
These were made in similar fashion to the Aft Platform :
Notches have been cut into the aft ends of the planks to accept the Riding Bitts and bulkhead stanchions :
The Bulkheads are made by first using card templates to get the hull shape, then edge gluing as many planks together as necessary, gluing on the stanchions and sanding their bottom ends to shape, and finally fitting a lower rail. Much dry-fitting involved here :
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Senior ole salt reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Aft Platform Carlings and Ledges
The Ledge mortices in the Carlings were marked and cut into a length of (scale) 4" x 3" stock. This method worked OK for the Platforms, but came back to bite me when I tried the same technique on the Lower Deck later on. The Carlings were also morticed into the Beams :
The Ledge mortices in the Lodging Knees were cut in with a narrowed Xacto chisel blade and the 3" x 2" Ledges were glued in :
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Senior ole salt reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Chain Pump Sprocket
Whilst I was "in the groove" with my hew-found Silver Soldering skills I thought I would make a Chain Pump Sprocket. I only need one of these as the other will be hidden from view under the Cistern.
This was made in similar fashion to the Pump Inlets using the PE side parts and 0.8mm brass wire for the bolts :
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Senior ole salt reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Chain Pump Inlets
The Chain Pump Tubes sit in "Cast Iron" Inlets in the bottom of the well.
I made the sides of these from the Photo-Etched parts supplied by Admiralty Models. I also made the bottoms from thin sheet brass, as none came with the PE set. These had to be drilled and filed :
To simulate the nuts I used 0.8mm brass tubing cut into pieces with an Xacto knife. I first inserted a 0.5mm drill into the tubing to prevent it from crushing and rolled the tubing under the knife blade until it cut through :
This was my first attempt at Silver Soldering, and I was very happy with the way it turned out . I used medium temperature Silver Solder Paste and a small Butane torch, about the size of a thick pen. I held the assembly in my vise while performing the operation :
One of the Inlets after it was soldered and not yet cleaned up :
After a pickling bath in vinegar to remove the scale and flux the part was cleaned again in Acetone and Blackened with Birchwood-Casey Brass Black diluted 1:8 with water :
The Inlets in position in the well. They will completely disappear from view later, but are a good base for the Tubes to sit into :
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from archjofo in Sloop Providence 1776 by Senior ole salt - 1:48 scale
Thanks, M Taylor for the advise for a trail cutting. Shown in the image is a cutting of a gun port on a scrap bulkhead. I did use the carbide burr chucked in a Dremel for the initial start then carefully moved to the prescribed cut as related before. I finished up with a 3 cornered file and emery board.
I decided not to cut the ports now but rather later as the hull needs much handling to glue the whale, channels, moldings bow to stern and rail caps. Along with the gun ports and freeing ports in the whole main deck I feel the bulwarks P&S will be rather weak.
SOS
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Senior ole salt reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Aft Crutch and Lower Breasthook
As I did with the Mast Steps, I used Cherry Ballart again for the Crutch and Breasthook. Card templates were used to transfer the shape of the hull to the undersides, and the top sides were taken from the patterns in TFFM.
These two pics are the Aft Crutch :
Blackened Brass wire bolts again :
The Lower Breasthook in the bow :
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Senior ole salt reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Glad to be of help Tony .
Topsail Yard Lifts
As with the lower yard lifts these are used to square the yard. They attach a little differently to the lower ones.
A Span fitted with a thimble at each end is clove-hitched around the topmast cap :
The thimbles at the ends of the span are lashed to thimbles in the standing ends of the lifts :
Then the lifts go through the lift blocks on the ends of the yard, up through the lower sheaves of the sister blocks lashed to the shrouds, and belay to the aftmost cleats on the lower part of the shrouds :
Danny
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Senior ole salt reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks for the comments once again George, Robin, Mark, Greg, David, Russell, Maury, H, Jihn, Mark and Carl .
Robin, I don't have any more pics other than what I have in this build log - sorry.
Topsail Yard Tyes
Before going into the construction of the Topsail Yard Tyes a warning to others building from TFFM - there is an error in their rigging, pointed out to me by none other than the author David Antscherl. Unfortunately this error was pointed out just as I had completed them . No biggie, I just pulled the whole lot apart and re-did them. At least this gave me an extra couple of days working on the model .
TFFM has you rigging the topsail tyes in similar fashion to the lower yards, whereas they use a DOUBLE block on the yard. The standing end of the Tye, one each side, circles the topmast and lashes back to itself via an eye. It then goes through one of the sheaves in the double block on the yard, up to the tye block under the top, and down to a double block for the tackle. The other side does the same.
The tye block has two buntline blocks lashed to it's top :
An overall view of the tye rigging :
The blocks under the top :
The double blocks on the ends of the tye falls :
The lower end of the tackle has a single block on a pendant which hooks into a ringbolt in the channels on either side. The fall of the tackle belays to a convenient timberhead. This is the main topsail tackle :
And the fore one :
Danny