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HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
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Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
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HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
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PaddyO reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
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Trussben reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
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AON reacted to a post in a topic:
St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
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AON reacted to a post in a topic:
St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
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Thukydides reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
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gjdale reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
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Ronald-V reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
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albert reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
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Jared reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
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AON reacted to a post in a topic:
St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
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Getting back into it and it is slow going right now. Soaking the pairs in boiling water then clamp them to the frames, one on each side of the ship (port and starboard). Once dry they come off and the soldering iron gets used to remove the spring back. Then they get glued and clamped in place. I am about to lay the wale planks over the flat area, no bending, so that should go quicker. I managed to get the gifted Areopiccola bending head adapted to my soldering iron. I cut off the two tabs, filed and sanded it flat and no sharp edges. Drilled with a #29 bit and tapped 8-32 thread, then inserted a screw, cut off the head and filed that edge. Then just screwed them together. (Thank you Mort!)
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AON reacted to a post in a topic:
St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
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AON reacted to a post in a topic:
Le Rochefort by No Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
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AON reacted to a post in a topic:
Le Rochefort by No Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
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AON reacted to a post in a topic:
Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
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AON reacted to a post in a topic:
St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
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AON reacted to a post in a topic:
St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
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AON reacted to a post in a topic:
St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
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Druxey Please accept my sincere apologies for not having responded in a timely manner. I have had a very busy few weeks. First I thought I was having a stroke, but after the better part of a day in Emergency I found it was Bell's Palsy caused by a virus and treated with some heavy duty drugs. The right side of my face was paralyzed and I could not close my right eye so it needed to be taped shut to sleep at night. I still have not fully recovered, but my eye is fine and I do not dribble anymore when I have my tea. My lips feel normal but my tongue does not stick out mid face, still slight out to the right side. Then my wife caught a virus (head cold - likely from the hospital) and passed it on to me, so we've both been suffering from that. My throat is still a bit sore but my head is no longer foggy. She is much better also. I hope to be back in the shop later this week. I managed to get the first piece bent, fitted, and glued before everything mentioned above happened. I figured out how to manage the others (a two stage bending process) but have had no progress since. Laminating might have been a solution, but I'll stick to full thickness for now. Keep this idea in my back pocket! Alan
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I started with the lower most forward piece. Marked off the chamfer to fit to the stem post on both port and starboard pieces. Shaped the first one.... pretty good. Shaped the second one... darn it, I did the inside rather than the outside. Made a new piece and did it correctly. Tried to bend them with a new 30W large round head bender... wouldn't work. Tried wetting it and then bending with the new tool... still wouldn't work. My guess is 30W is inadequate heat for the thickness of the part. I soaked them in boiling water and clamped them onto the frames. I'll use my soldering iron barrel tomorrow to put that little bit more bend to them to seat properly. A member of our club gifted me a Areopiccola bending head but it doesn't fit my irons. The irons have a small threaded hole The Areopiccola head is 10mm diameter and split to slide into a barrel with a 10mm hole. I need to find a soldering iron that will accommodate it. With adequate heat it should work.
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After getting through a multitude of terribly sunny, warm and blue sky days where I just had to force myself to sit out on the back patio, then having yet another health issue I am dealing with, I finally got down to the shop today. I have my lower guides spot glued and clamped so I’ll be ready to go. I have all but one of the main wale pieces dry fitted on the bench. The one piece needs to be remade. It is not perfect, but I am aware of my capabilities/limitations and can recognize when my “good enough” has been reached. Now to get that last set remade and start getting them on the model!
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Sitting at my computer, watching yet another wonderful video with my darling wife of very nearly 50 years seated at her computer to my left... then came your comment about keeping your eraser handy to which we both chuckled! Thanks for that too.
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The proper name for the small boat cover or canvas tie down rope is ......... darn it, I forget!
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Completed the main wale edition 3 layout with the slightly more complicated double hooks. In the first photo you can see the tools used. Not so obvious is the straight pin used to hold a point of the printed sheet so it could be spun a little to help make it all follow the curve of the wales. I have a flexible curve from my pencil and paper drafting days, works better in this instance than my French curves to make a long gentle curved line. I copied (traced) my original boundaries (taken off the model and onto tracing paper) onto a new fresh set of overlapping tracing sheets. I slide the printed layout of the wales under the blank sheets and went to work with a 2H pencil. You can see the results in the second sheet. On the third photo is the bow layout. Now I have a dilemma. Do I head downstairs to the basement and start cutting and sanding to thickness new stock, and start tracing, cutting and sanding new pieces... or do I spend the last few sunny days of post summer (fall) outside. Tough one!
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