roach101761

How is the facsimile? Is it clear? I have bought a few print on demand books where it has not been good. Some times it looks like a copy of a copy and needless to say the illustrations are lost in black ink. If its a good copy I think I am sold and will add them to my list to order. Phil

Michael You are right. No one tells you, shows you, or teaches you how to use that craft knife. Most people would say that is true of modeling in general. When I was a kid I was always saving and looking forward to my next plastic model kit. Mostly ships, some airplanes(most of those at 1:48) and various 1;72 infantry support pieces, little trucks, jeeps etc. I loved those little guys. I think my little favorite of all time was a German 88. It elevated, rotated, it detached from the limber and the supports folded down. I digress. The point is, I had a model and at first a pack of 5 single edged razor blades. I could not buy more because it would cut into my model budget and I needed to buy glue as well, and then all those little Testor bottles of paint, then Humbrel and brushes etc. An air brush was a dream. No one ever heard of a sprue cutter back then. That X-acto with the #11 was a significant upgrade and all us kids were reluctant because the blade replacement was more expensive and not available unless mom took you to the hobby shop. A place most of our mothers detested. These are the same mothers who turned us loose in Woolworth and had to come looking for us on the model aisle when it was time to go home. I could get more single edge blades on my bike by riding to the closest garage or the 7-11. Then we all know what happens in high school. You have a driver's license, more money, more freedom and Lori is now you primary diversion. It takes marriage, kids, jobs and a mortgage or two before you finally splurge and buy that X-acto handle to maintain your sanity. Anyway, now you are 30 something and still there is no one to teach you about that blade. Apparently none of us ever learn and have all the cuts to prove it. One of my biggest fears is that it is going to fall off the table and I will find it sticking out of my foot or my dogs back. I am still looking for a lesson. With any blade, I find it very hard to make a straight and square cut. That's why I own a Northwest True Sander, which I use mostly to square up my cuts. If any one wants to know how poorly you make cuts, I invite you to put together an inexpensive Guillow's balsa airplane kit. The Chooper does little to help because it crushes the wood and getting the angle is tricky. To be clear, I am not talking about cutting a straight line, I am talking about keeping the blade perpendicular to the work as you cut. Perhaps there is technique or perhaps it is trial by error for everyone. This is a skill I would like to learn. PS I also use the blades as scrapers because the thickness or rigidity of the blade makes it well suited to the use. Phil

I started this thread because I have become really frustrated with the X-acto handles. I have one in which the collar is actually splitting, and it is an X-acto brand handle. Just so all of you know, I have never been, nor will I ever be one of those guys who thinks that a new putter or the latest driver will make me a better golfer(modeler). Clark is right on the money. I need a better handle. Thus far, I will test the Tamiya handle and the selection of scalpels. If I can find a rear tightening handle I will try that too. However, I think in the end, they will all be very well suited to particular tasks I believe you like what you are use to and what you have become comfortable with. Phil

It seems that scalpels and blades are ultimately less expensive than the hobby brand craft knives and blades, and as others have pointed out are a superior product. Not to mention the fact that there also seems to be more variety in cutting blades at the same price points. I have not gotten my new stuff yet, so I can not judge, but.........someone please tell me why everyone starts with craft handle and #11 blade? Phil

Tonight I poked around on Amazon. I made my purchase of various medial devices. Total cost was just under $33.00. I bought 4 sets. Each set contained one handle and various included blades. I bought: #3 handle with ten #10 and ten #11 blades #7 handle with ten # 11 blades a round #3 handle with five #10a and five #15 blades #4 handle with ten #20 and ten #21 blades There were many economical choices. I opted for inexpensive handles for now. I have four handles and 60 blades on the way. Phil

Found this in the the Ship Modeler's Association news letter, vol. 41, number 9, Sept. 2014. Dave Yotter wrote... "There was a discussion regarding #11 scalpel blades as a superior alternative to hobby blades like X-acto. This was brought up before and an excellent place to get these blades is Cincinnati Surgical hppt://www.cincinnatisurgical.com They offer a house brand along with the Swann Morton brand (highly recommended by Mike Lonnercker, Don Dressel and myself once we tried them). They can be ordered in boxes of 100, $33.00 for the non-sterile ones. They have other blade shapes: I use the #10's a lot and they also have a line of hobby/craft blades. The have lots to offer so poke around." So I will poke around and get back to you guys. Phil

Got my Tamiya Knife handle and blades in the mail yesterday. I have not used it yet but I have the following observations thus far. 1. The handle is longer and seems a bit heavier than my largest X-acto handle. Most of the weight and strength of the handle is in the end of the handle at the knife end. 2. The handle is a hard black plastic with metal fittings comprising the collet for the blade. 3. Although the Tamiya brand is printed with white letters on the handle, the manufacturer is imprinted or branded in the plastic handle. The Manufacturer is OLFA Japan. 4. The biggest difference is how the blade is held in the handle. The flat portions of the blade are not sandwiched between the flat portions of the collet. Instead the blade is clamped on the two edges of the shank (the part with the hole) of the blade. There is also a spring type spacer that prevents the halves of the collet from being able to mate flush on the other axis, which I think prevents you from bending the collet if you tighten it too much. This I think insures that he mating surfaces of the handle with the blade stay parallel to the shank of the blade so as to ensure full contact with the blade on both edges. Although I have not used it yet, the blade seems very secure. I am sure that some basic engineering concepts are at work in the blade holding design. 5. The Blades have a slightly different design. The shank (again the part with the hole) is longer, therefore providing more mating surfaces on the edges than other blades. The blades are stamped as being made by OLFA. 6. Just so happens I had the following #11 type blades in my tool box: Excel, X-acto, and Testors. They will all fit into the handle and seem secure, although their shanks are slightly shorter than the OFLA blades. 7. I did not look long, but I could not find more than a five(5) pack of replacement blades which increases the cost of the blades significantly. This will be a big draw back for me because I toss my blades often. Believe it or not, a sharp blade is safer than a dull one. This is what I know for now. Phil

I think the purpose of the steel is to unroll the cutting edged of a knife. When you use the edge it actually curls over or rolls over. The steel takes the curl out. Some one told me this once and I am not able to check the source tonight. Phil

Well, I guess the votes are in. There is no better X-acto handle than the ones I have. However, not being able to resist the urge to buy something today, I put my money down on a Tamiya Hobby Knife Pro. Its twice or more than and X-Acto. Perhaps its actually made in Japan. I have also decided that I will explore the surgical options. Its hard to beat the #11 for price. I toss my blades very often. I learned along time ago that a dull blade was a danger to my health. Phil

Is there a better handle for holding the #11 blade? X-acto and other similar holders are not doing it for me. I wear them out and the blades get loose. I believe the issues are that the machining is not fine enough and the tolerances are too great. Keep in mind we only spend between 6 and 11 bucks which problably also explains it. So, is there a better knife handle out there waiting for my money. Phil

I am really late to the party here, but saw your remake of the metal life rings. On a model of mine, I added white metal life rings from Blue Jacket. I cut off the metal rope parts, filed them down to the 4 holding straps, then drilled a hole through the straps, then ran line all the way around. I painted the life rings. I ended up with a life ring with a less stiff look. I can find a photo I will post later Phil

Of coarse having Kurt guide you and personally answer your questions is better than having the articles. Phil

Paul Was surfing MSW this evening and came across your post. Kurt Van Dahm, the Chairman of the NRG wrote multi part article for ships in scale that appeared in 2013. It is in four parts and begins in the Jan/Feb issue and concludes in the July/Aug issue. It will be well worth your time to acquire these articles. Phil Roach

Just looked up the Cambridge University press editions at Amazon and Abe Books. All four volumes are reasonably priced. Knowing that the Pound is at least twice the Dollar, it seems that Amazon has the best price for new copies. Also found a print on demand, however it was not clear which edition was scaned. Phil Roach.

Mark I do not know if the version you cite is authentic. After all the Gill edition says it is authentic. Phil

Tony The Nautical Research Journal published an article entitled "Steel Examined" by Loyd M. Maloney. It appears in Vol. 52, No.4 Winter 2007 pgs 213-220. Mr. Maloney discusses the various editions of Steel and in particular the Claude S. Gill 1932 edition of the the 1794 Steel. The cold hard truth revealed by Mr. Maloney is the the Gill Reprint is far from an authentic reproduction of the 1794 Steel and in fact contains material from 1794 ed. and the 1806 ed. He also states that there is much missing information and describes Gill's work as the Readers Digest version of Steel. In order to make his conclusions he located a two volume set by Sim Comfort and verified it was an actual reprint of the 1794 Steel. The article is full of information on the history of Steel and the various editions over time and various reprints of the information in various books. If you are ready to invest your money in Steel read the article. Hold out for an edition that is a true copy. Phil Roach

A very good place to start for Bounty's rigging and Sails is the Anatomy of the Ship series book, The Armed Transport Bounty by John McKay. If you limited yourself to one book to build Bounty, this is the one. This book is readily available on line, new or used and is a good value for the money. I paid less than $26.00 for mine and it included shipping. Phil Roach NRG Director President, Southwest Florida Ship Modeler's Guild

I am building an 1815, 80 ton US revenue cutter. The Doughty Large plan in Chapelle's book. It is actually the AL kit of Dallas. I am to the point where I must begin planning the rigging. There are obvious errors in the AL plans. As the vessel has no ratlines(this is correct by the way), I determined long ago that the Topsail was bent to the spar on deck and then hoisted flying. My understanding of this term is that with the use of the halliard/halyard the the topsail yard with the sail bent to it is then hauled up to the peak of the topmast. Remember that there is a sheave up there running through the top mast in order to hoist the yard and sail.This also means that there are no stirrups on the topsail yard. In larger Square rigged ships, Sky and moon sails would be set in a similar fashion, although not from the deck, but most likely from the tops. Because it is set flying, no one will go up to furl the sail. If not needed it would be lowered to the deck. Therefor no need for the bunt lines,leech lines or reef points. MY PROBLEM IS HOW WOULD THE SHEET LINES and BRACES BE DEALT WITH? I have looked at and reviewed the following plan sets while searching for a solution. AL Dallas- The kit does not have sails and no rigging plan for sails is included. Model Shipways, Pride of Baltimore II--This is a double topsail schooner and a much larger vessel than the Dallas Kit. It has Ratlines. However the top gallant yard can be a fill in for the practice. Just so happens that the top gallant spar is lowered to the level of the cross trees, so the yardr and sail can be handled from that point. Corel USS Ranger Kit plans--No Revenue cutter Ranger existed in 1823 and this kit is actually based on the mid size William Doughty plan(56 tons) of 1815 vintage. This kit comes with sails but has obvious errors. The sheet lines are just tied off to the yard below. There are no ratlines on this kit either, but yet the topsail has reef points. The yard has no stirrups. For this vessel size and the DALLAS size, I think that he sail is relatively small, therefore no need for reef points. It is simply set or not set. The original Pride-- Also a double topsail schooner but smaller than Pride II. I have no plans but photos of the ship in the Pride of Baltimore book by Gillmer show a relatively small topsail sheeted to the main square sail yard below it. The photo shows no detail. Various line drawings in many books just show that the sail is sheeted to the yard below it. Halifax(1760s) 83 tons by Hahn--the one sheet on the rigging is disappointing. It does not provide the detail necessary. Model Shipways Sultana(1760s) 52 tons--I think the answer lies here but I am not sure. The topsail yard has a halliard to lift it in place and actually has a down haul to help control it on its way down, but the sheet lines are unclear. Also it has ratlines but no stirrups on the yard. Also when the Brits took Halifax and Sultana into service the re rigging is a bit beefy. Most of the sheet lines in plans for ships seem to run through sheaves set in the spar below it. See Cutter Alert. In my case it would be the Main Square Sail Yard. This yard is present on all of the plans listed above and the Main Square Sail would only be used in light winds. See several Chapelle drawings in the The History of American Sailing Ships. The Square Sail Yard would also be lowered to the deck to have the sail bent to the yard and the sail was spread with a square sail boom. Some of the Chapelle drawings show this. However the Top Sail was more routinely used as the the sail provided more control of the vessel, especially in a constricted seaway. Petersson's Period fore and aft craft show the sheets of the fore top gallant run through sheaves on the yard below. The vessel depicted is also a larger double topsail schooner. Back to Sultana--I have reviewed Chuck Passaro's practicum on building the Model Shipways kit. He states that the topsail sheet is run through a block attached to the main and fore yards. I have not seen the plans to Lively, nor at this time do I have access to them. IF THE TOPSAIL IS SET FLYING THIS MEANS THE FOLLOWING--- The topsail sheets(2) and the topsail yard braces(2)--a total of 4 lines, 2 starboard and 2 port, will follow the yard all the way down to the deck for the sail to be bent or unbent. AND what happens to the topsail sheets when the topsail is unbent from the yard? Are they belayed somewhere on deck waiting for use still rove through the blocks on the fore yard? I am trying to determine if my conclusion is correct. Phil Roach

In MOBY DICK Herman Melville describes the Pequods bulwarks as follows: "All round, her unpanelled, open bulwarks were garnished like one continuous jaw, with the long sharp teeth of the sperm whale inserted there for pins, to fasten her old hempen thews and tendons to." In Chapter 16 entitled "The Ship", he describes the Pequod as more than half a century old. Writing in 1850 about events 9 years previous--"Some years ago---never mind how long precisely--..." (Melville shipped out on a whaler in 1841), this places the ship's construction slightly before or at 1790. A post colonial ship. The adjective "unpanelled" is causing me some confusion. Does unpanelled mean an open rail, or a bulwark that is planked on the outside to the rail with no planking or ceiling on the inboard surfaces? Perhaps I am not clear on the term open bulwarks. What is an open bulwark? Phil Roach NRG Director President, Southwest Florida Ship Modeler's Guild

I am away for the labor day weekend, and therefore away from my books. However, on some British Revenue cutters,(single mast sloop rigged) the top mast is positioned behind the mast. I wrote the first post as parallel to the deck but the proper term is parallel to the water line as others above have indicated. For posterity I will edit the first post so it will read correctly. I also edited it for spelling and changed the word parallel to perpendicular in paragraph "A" above. Phil

My query is how a top mast is fitted or set to the lower mast in schooners or other craft when the masts or mast are set at an extreme raking angle. Baltimore clippers, Virginia pilot type vessels and the Bermuda sloop are my concern here. In a vessel in which the masts are not set at an angle, I can find pictures, drawings and diagrams galore as to how the top mast is set or fitted. The topmast generally passes between the trestle trees and hounds(a trestle tree and hound each on port and starboard) and through the cross trees(one each fore and aft). The fid is inserted through the topmast. The fid rests on the trestle trees thus taking the weight of the top mast. In this regular setting the trestle trees and cross trees are parallel to the water line. The problem with the fitting or setting of the topmast on raking mast is as follows. 1. The trestle trees are set parallel to the water line. To achieve this the hounds to support them are cut at an angle. Thus the trestle trees will be parallel to the water line but set at an angle to the mast(not perpendicular to the mast). 2. In many of the plans I have reviewed, including the AL kit Dallas and Model Shipways Pride of Baltimore, the trestle trees and cross trees are parallel to the water line but set at an angle to the mast. The top mast just appears to be sitting on top of the trestle trees and cross trees with NO PASS through. The top mast does not appear to be locked in place. However, in the plans to Corel's Ranger, the trestle trees and Cross trees are set perpendicular to the mast and at an angle to the water line. 3. In the majority of Chapelle's plans he shows them parallel to the water line, however, in some plans he shows the trestle trees and cross trees perpendicular to the mast so that the trestle trees and cross trees are set at an angle to the water line. For his drawings of the Bermuda Sloop he showed it both ways. Go figure. 4. Clay Feldman in his Virginia sloop book sets the hounds, trestle trees, and cross trees perpendicular to the mast and at an angle to the water line. My questions are.... A. If the trestle trees are set parallel to the water line, logic may dictate that that the trestle trees should be notched in such a way to receive the cross trees so that flat faces of the cross trees between the trestle trees are perpindicular to the lower mast so that the top mast can pass between and be locked into place without cutting and making an odd shape out of the foot of the topmast to make it fit between the cross trees. Is this correct? B. If trestle trees and cross trees are set in the regular manner how does the top mast pass through to be locked into place? C. In short what is the actual practice? Has anyone had the opportunity to examine the fitting of the topmasts on Pride II or on any other sailing topmast schooner or Bermuda sloop? Phil Roach NRG Director President, Southwest Florida Ship Modeler's Guild.

Just so happens I have been reading Whaling books of late and possess Whale Ships and Whaling by Albert Cook Church C. 1938. Dover Re-print 1974. Turns out there are several photos of whale ships hove down and in the process of hull repair, sheathing and copper plating. Very enlightening. All photos are in black and white. What they show is that the even brand new copper plate while being applied to the hull were variegated in color. The photos are worth a look. Quite honestly these photos are the best demonstration of the sheathing process and coppering process I have ever come across. The best photos are of the Ship James Arnold, bark Josephine, bark Morning Star, Sunbeam and bark Andrew Hicks. A scan from my book would not work. However, a google search of these ship names may turn up the same photos. I found one in 5 minutes. This is the Bark Josephine from flckr. If I find more I will post. https://www.flickr.com/photos/spinnerpub/3247433975/in/photostream/ Phil Roach NRG Director President, Southwest Florida Ship Modeler's Guild

If you are looking for a color tone of aged copper(not green) look at copper pennies. Lots of people collect coins, I have an older coin or two. Pennies that have been in circulation basically turn a dark brown very quickly. I guess its all the dirt and oils form skin that causes it. I bet there are some excellent photos on-line of copper coins more that 100 and 200 years old. I would think that the more valulabe coins are the ones that show little wear from actual circulation. Therefore their current color will not have been influeced by dirt and oils. I have seen pictures of old coins in coin books but can never remember seeing the 1909-s Lincoln cent as a shiny penny. It seems it is always brownish, but clear in the details. Coins are never supposed to be cleaned as it impacts thier value. Hope this helps. Phil Roach NRG Director President, Southwest Florida Ship Modeler's Guild

Richard and Chapman The AL Kit Dallas is a model of the 80 ton revenue cutter plan. However, the real Dallas was built on the 51 ton plan. Its why I call my model the "The Ship that is NOT the Dallas". Marc Mosco a few years back explained that the kit was created and marketed to take advantage of the popular TV series by the same name. As to the information provided by King, if you look at the sources he sites, he sites Howard Chapelle. See my post above for my journey to identify the ship. Phil Roach NRG Director President, Southwest Florida Ship Modeler's Guild

A friend gave me some small planks of Mara Macho. Its a South American wood. They are four feet long by 1/2 inch thick and 3 inches wide. It is a very light red in color and has a tight grain. It came out of a cabinet shop. Has anyone used it in any ship models? Does anyone have an opinion on its use in Ship Modeling? The raw material seems great for lifts or is ready to reduce to much smaller planks and strips. Phil Roach NRG Director President, Southwest Florida Ship Modeler's Guild