3D printing tests (Form1+)

[iMack]

I thought I'd add a post/log here of my experience testing with the Form1+ printer. I've had a fair amount of experience with different 3D printers so I'll document my ramblings and it may be of some use to someone, who knows? The university recently bought a Form1+, and since I'm the printing nerd they've given it to me to set it up (and play with). We have access to a whole range of different FDM printers in the studio but they are all junk for creating very detailed parts. They are good for objects with large surface area and some other parts, but the amount of sanding and filling is their downfall - even with a coat of XTC.  

 

So the machine arrived today and I spent most of the day setting it up. I'll be busy getting all my CAD files ready for printing and I'll get a whole batch on tomorrow. From the first try, the machine prints very well and is incredibly easy to setup (compared to some others). Simple and fast to operate it certainly gives some commercial machines a run for their money. With the machine costing less than a 1/10th of the professional ones the quality loss isn't drastic either. 

 

My test print cannon is at a 1:64 scale just over 4cm in length. Printed at 0.05 mm (which translates into medium settings for the machine) took 2 hours to print. Cost came to £1 (matieral wise) using just under 10ml of resin. However cost of consumables would have to be added (the printing tray and the alchol solution).  

 

Iain

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 20, 2015 by iMack

[dvm27]

That's pretty impressive. I imagine painting might be a tad difficult on the conjoined pieces though.

[druxey]

Interesting configuration, Iain. Is there a reason for the angle you oriented the piece at, as well as so many supporting sprues (for lack of knowing the correct term)? Also, what would be the print time at fine resolution?

Edited April 20, 2015 by druxey

[iMack]

The print is angled as the machine likes to print on a skewed orientation. That's what result in so much support structure (basically a sprue as you mentioned). Handily you can set the point size so that they can easily snap off however. An alternative (and probably wiser) way would be to print the model in several parts as dvm suggested. 

 

The reason the machine prints skewed, is just a result the way the printer functions. I believe this is due to the 'peeling' process that is involved with the bed. Each time a laser shoots towards the bed (the plate that holds the resin) it tilts downwards, allowing the model to peel off. The plate holding the model then moves upwards, and the same process then happens again. If I remember right that model was about 700 'peels' 

 

On high resolution (0.025mm) it'll take 4h20. Quite a drastic difference in time. Maybe I'll get a chance this week to give it a try and compare surface quality between the 3. 

 

Cannon 1:64

0.10mm   :  1hr

0.05mm   :  2hr

0.025mm : 4hr20

 

/Iain 

Edited April 20, 2015 by iMack

[druxey]

Thanks for the extra information, Iain. Does this machine use only resin, or are there other materials that could be substituted?

[iMack]

hey druxey, 

 

yeah they are all resin based - there aren't many materials available unfortunately. They have the standard resins with different colours, a 'castable' resin (wax based) used for investment casting in jewlery and a flexible resin. But that's it. That is one of the downsides with this machine. 

 

/Iain

Edited April 21, 2015 by iMack

[druxey]

Well, the wax option is useful for making repeatable metal castings. That certainly expands the range of possibilities for this machine.

[Jaxboat]

Interesting idea, Druxey. I think it would be relatively easy to design the right casting wax. You need precise melting, flow and set

Best

Jaxboat

[iMack]

Here's some of the progress today. I've put some higher res images here compared to the last so you can have a better look (without too much eye squinting). I wanted to do some tests to see how the quality was after a coat of paint. I was suprised that it had such a good surface without any sanding or work done to it (par clipping), I had thought the slight residue that was left might prohibit a nice coat. They were sprayed with cellulose paint (they are just testers, so don't worry about my colour choices).

 

They are all printed 0.05mm apart form the red one which was done at 0.1mm. Detail does look more dull, but the trade off is it takes half the amount of time. It took 4h20mins for 9 cannons at medium detail (0.05mm)

 

I went further adding a coat of high gloss to see if it could pick up and reflect any imperfections in the print - very little stood out. 

 

Iain 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 22, 2015 by iMack

[druxey]

Definitely rougher at .1mm than .05mm. Thanks for showing us comparative results.

[bear]

How is the total cost of these parts after all that you spent on the 3 D printer and all thats needed for it?  Just want to know how much it comes out to per part that is shown here now.

 

Keith

[iMack]

Well that's the question. I know I would get a lot of use out of it since I study a modelmaking degree course and use them for adding detail to traditional clay sculpts to architectural models or film props. The machine itself costs £2,400 along with the starter kit and a pot of resin. A pot of resin alone costs about £100. Onto that you have an alcohol solution to clean them in after. So they aren't cheap. In theory you could get 180 cannons at 1:64 scale out of a bottle of resin costing (an estimated) about £1.60 each. (taking into account resin, cleaning solution, consumable bed)

 

I am wondering, would people be interested in buying these sort of prints if they were £2-3? Or is the boat community much more after having a wooden carriage with a brass cannon? The advantage is being able to print out models at any scale. 

 

Iain 

Edited April 22, 2015 by iMack

[JerryTodd]

Ye know while you're melting all that plastic you could be making a Macedonian figurehead in 1:36 scale. 

[druxey]

If it's a figurehead you're after, Jerry, see the Admiralty Models web site....

[mtaylor]

Druxey,

 

Jerry's Macedonian is RC and will get wet.