Will Everard by Izzy Madd - Billing Boats

[Izzy Madd]

Ahoy, me hearties.

 

I'm just starting this log a little after the event but too far. Any suggestions or criticism welcome.

 

I'm spreading my self a little thin as I'm also doing a 1/130 & 1/350 Cutty Sark at the same time as this so progress my be patchy. But they will all be finished. Eventually.

 

When I first bid on this "vintage" model on eBay. It was simply for a chance to try building a wooden boat. As I've always stuck to plastic kits in the past. But as an ex cabinetmaker I though it was about time to take the plunge.

 

When I got the winning bid I began to do a little research. Only to discover that this small working boat which was bought by OCL way back when. Was the very same boat I spent a day sailing up and down the Thames way back when OCL had just bought her/him. Back even befor there were a comforts just long benches and wooden tables. But that day has sat in my mind all these years, 40 ish that is.

 

And to find I've been a victim serendipity thrills my inner child with great pleasure. Like I said having been a wooden top for too many years I'm hoping to leave her with as much wood showing as possible. Which considering she's built of steel is fine by me. As she will still be the same memory for me but why try to hide the wood. Let the beauty of nature shine is my hope and feeling. But time will tell.

 

Sadly there are no instructions for this model. I don't know if there ever were. As the new laser cut version varies in several details. But I've got the plans, the knowledge of wood, and a stubborn streak a mile wide. So I'll end this part of my journey with a picture or two of her as she was yesterday, on arrival.

 

 

And how we stand this afternoon

 

 

So I'm going to set sail for now and add to the captains log soon.

[Izzy Madd]

Ahoy there,

 

Just a bit of surprisingly early update.

 

But as things have turned out there is quite a bit I want to add today. So sorry for all the images. Hopefully they are all right way up.

 

First of all, thanks for the like Ray. Second as as far as I can see very few logs as to the build of "Will" I'm going to assume there are very few and treat you all to the gory details. I know there was a built on here back in 2013. But none I can find now. Please feel free to correct me. Also I want to avoid using CA as much as possible on the wooden parts as I find I crystallises over time as the wood moves and the glue doesn't. So parts become loose or fall of. So it's very similar to the way a wooden boat would have been built.

 

All will become clearer as we go along

 

Yesterday I'd gotten as far as glueing the the ribs on one half. As this is built in two hales then the halves glued together. I'd also started to fix the base of the boat on.

 

For now I'm going to write about halves so anyone following me double up what I've written as I'll most likely be doing both side the same.w

 

In more detail the base is made of a single piece of three mill ply. And the boat is made in such a way that all but the last four ribs on each end are flat along the bottom.

 

So this meant I'm able to secure the base to the middle ribs as there is a line printed on the base for alignment with th seventh rib. Which I'm then able to leave to set over night. That way I'm not trying to hold 15 ribs and the base at the same time.

 

The first thing I did was to sand the last. Four ribs on each side to the right angle. This is very arbitrary as the ribs vary slightly so I decide to sick with a line that was smooth and visually nice. This done I need to bend the base ply three ways. Hence the glueing the middle down yesterday. Well ther are only three ways of doing this that I know.

 

Brute force, which worked but not easy to maintain for two hours wiphile the glue sets. Heat/Steam, messy smelly and needs extra equipment. Or they way I did. That is to apply several coats of warm soapy water for about ten minutes then bend it like paper and turn on the fan to dry it our. One dry it's three parts there. Then I glued and taped the hell out of it to hold it in place

 

 

 

The end with the least tape I allowed to dry before gluing so less pressure needed also the front is such a low angle I had to add to scraps of ply left over to pin it down because the angle is REALLY low. As you'll see next time

 

So today I was able to cut all the pieces out and try to make some sort of headway out of sorting the planking etc. As this is an "old" kit see the lid and the bloke with the beard and pipe tells you that much. But the parts don't all add up as to the modern version of the instructions. This said I do think they were far more generous back then as I seem to have about twice as much as nowadays. :-). Great for those slight redesigns later.

 

See what I mean

 

Well the first thing I did was to replace the slipway that is supplied as this one had twisted and was only able to hold one half. Too slow. So I've gone for a piece of MDF 10 x 300x 500 mm ish. Then I can just spin the board around to work on the other half.

 

 

This done you'll notice a few oddities. First off I should have glued the deck on befor the base. In my defence I disuse the deck piece to ensure alignment. Secondly was a spark of inspiration on my part. The makers tell you to put the ribs on making sure there all square and vertical. Very good advice but I was arranging parts when I suddenly realised the the keel boards are from a square set in the same sort of arrangement I've pinned them down to. This is where the idea struck me.

 

 

If the scrap piece is the same shape as the deck needs to be AND I need to stick the ribs in the right place. Then brainwave. Glue the dec on first, ribs have to sit in the notches, and hold it there with the scrap piece already shaped.

 

 

 

Everything is now in place perfectly and I can just shove, technical term that, the ribs in the right places bang bang bang, another technical term.

 

One thing I did learn from the build from 2013, sorry terrible with names, drill the holes in the ribs for any fittings before planking the sides. As there is only 10mm night so it can only be done from the outside. So until next time heave ho. And pass me the rum as its weekend and PARTY TIME

[Izzy Madd]

ADVICE PLEASE

 

Decking. I know the "Will" was never fully planked. But as she is my boat it's my choice.

 

Having said that. What is anyone's opinion about such a complete change of the kit.?

 

The reason I want to Kit bash in this way is I simply love wood and would like to leave it as unpainted as still looks right. But shows as much of the beauty of the material. I'm also thinking of adding a new single veneer piece as the base of the hull to hide the joint and possibly veneer the keel for the same reasons. I know some pieces will look better if they are accentuated with paint such as say the masts. Who'd have no real grain to feature.

 

And I wanted to get another ponint of view. Is it shunned as "not true to the original? Or lauded as imaginative? Or just ignored as its up me what I do.? Or what ever.

 

Please leave some answer. As I'm assuming not many are over impressed as I've had 65 views but just one recognition/like. If I'm doing something wrong in my build log PLEASE tell me. As this is my first time sharing a build of any kind.

[Izzy Madd]

Well I can defiantly possibly unofficially confirm that reading the great and mighty Dafi (no offence intended, I mean that as a compliment). Is contagious.

 

Or is seems to be for me. Not only have I ended up kit bashing slightly, but to what I can only describe my self as being obsurd. That's me not the act of ultimate detail.

 

While Little Willy, which he told me he prefers, not on anywhere near the same par as the almighty Dafi's Victory. At 1/64 and being my first wooden kit. It's not bad even though I say so my self. After much soul searching, and not finding one spare. I've decided to go for a slightly earlier version of the Thames river barge. That of the all wooden era. Simply as I don't want to have to paint the wood. And because I'm too far away for you to stop me

[Izzy Madd]

And if your wondering what I used as a caulking chisel. Here's a picture you tell me...

[clearway]

This brings back memories- built this in 1993! I planked the bow and stern then painted the "steel" decks red and used high build primer on the hull to remove wood grain. Will be interesting to see her in wood finish.

Keith

Edited May 5, 2015 by clearway

[Izzy Madd]

Thanks for all the likes

 

 

This brings back memories- built this in 1993! I planked the bow and stern then painted the "steel" decks red and used high build primer on the hull to remove wood grain. Will be interesting to see her in wood finish.

Keith

As you've done him before. You may be able to help out as regards the sails. Or anyone for that matter.

 

Normall they were painted with a delightful mixture of fish oil and red ochre. While I'm all for realism I'm not into the smell of rancid fish oil for the next few years.

 

What's the best thing to use to colour the sail?

 

As they are a lovely shade of as we called it in the rag trade ecru. Better know to us mortals as unbleached.

 

I know I could just paint them but I'm concerned about the paint being to thick and looking like I've painted them rather than some sort of stain. I don't really want to go and buy fabric dye as it cost a fortune and is carefully measured for colouring several yards of fabric.

 

Would food colouring work or even red ochre and mineral oil. As that's inert. So won't go off. And I have loads of that for protecting razors.

 

 

Also as I've moved Little Willy back a few decades I've realised that the planks would have been nailed on.

 

Would I be right in assuming these would be normal 4" copper boat nails or even roves? Does any one know.?

 

And if they used roves no wonder they used to wrap chains around the hull when filled with loose cargos like bricks and coal. As they would have been copper rove plates flying everywhere. And the cargo sat at the bottom of the river

[Izzy Madd]

As you'll have seen from my previous posts I only use the highest quality equipment.

[popeye the sailor]

the board your working on is a good idea.........harder to tell if the pictures are upside down or not      >just had to drop a subtle hint<

 

 

your concept is an interesting one,  but it has it's dangers.  do you want to build the  "Will",  or do you want to enhance it into oblivion?  believe me,  I've done it........added so much,  that I killed the subject.  {check out my Maine Lobster boat build}   not too many folks here have ever calked the hull......I think the problems will come when you sand the hull smooth.   some of it may be lost,  or as a worse case,  you may end up with some visible plank lines.

    I've built many Billing's kits........only one has been with this split hull method.......can't say that I liked it.  I didn't want to see a separation line up the bow or stern,  so I joined the two halves together before it was planked.   made it easier to clamp the two halves together {evenly distribute the cement}.  a good suggestion would be to look up images of the actual boat,  and see if it fits what you plan to do.   I'm not trying to dump on you or anything like that.......it would be sad to see you get half way through the build,  and find that the subject went out the window

[Izzy Madd]

the board your working on is a good idea.........harder to tell if the pictures are upside down or not >just had to drop a subtle hint<

 

 

your concept is an interesting one, but it has it's dangers. do you want to build the "Will", or do you want to enhance it into oblivion? believe me, I've done it........added so much, that I killed the subject. {check out my Maine Lobster boat build} not too many folks here have ever calked the hull......I think the problems will come when you sand the hull smooth. some of it may be lost, or as a worse case, you may end up with some visible plank lines.

I've built many Billing's kits........only one has been with this split hull method.......can't say that I liked it. I didn't want to see a separation line up the bow or stern, so I joined the two halves together before it was planked. made it easier to clamp the two halves together {evenly distribute the cement}. a good suggestion would be to look up images of the actual boat, and see if it fits what you plan to do. I'm not trying to dump on you or anything like that.......it would be sad to see you get half way through the build, and find that the subject went out the window

Hi,

 

As it happens that's right way up. Apparently Apple have admitted they've messed up and advised people to hold there iPad one way for rear shots and the other for forward shots. That's fine but the camera won't rotate whilst taking rear shots so your looking at an upside down image that ends up being the picture. Ah well.

 

Having the two halves laid out together makes a lot of things simpler. It's easier to visually match the two. I'm using one hull to pre bend the planks for the other. I can take measurements direc from one to the other and I can stagger the work from one to the other so as to keep the work flowing smoother no stopping and waiting iafter each plank if I don't want to. Just turn it around and work on the other half. Also the thicker board helps keep the keel flatter. I hope!

 

Thanks for your comments and I'd also considered this problem of not liking the final look but I can always fill and paint if it's too bad. I'll check out you log soon but I've seen photos of old wooden barges and they have very clear caulking lines as the hull is so rough. They've just left it with a deep groove that's then filled partially withe pitch. But this is a learn as I go job and it works or it doesn't either way if got a model boat at the end. But I'll keep what you've said in mind. As for the sanding smooth I've started already and the caulking has sanded out but I've got severa razor saws and there's still enough groove to open it up enough to re caulk once sanded. So hopefully it will work. Watch this space.

 

Thanks and keep trying to spot the upside down images

Edited May 6, 2015 by Izzy Madd

[Izzy Madd]

If I can get a tenth of the quality of Mike Seymour's model, see below. I'll be happy. But it's the look I'm hopefull of.

 

 

[popeye the sailor]

thanks Izzy.......I'm relieved that you didn't take my comments as criticism........in no way would I ever do that      I've only been involved with the medium since 2009,  so even if I did throw stones,  they'd hit the ground before they ever hit the target       but I am familiar with Billing's kits and their construction,  so I may be able to help in some small way.  as with the instructions,  it won't matter much if you were to follow the old or revised copy.......the big differences will be that the kit isn't laser cut and some of the part numbers will have changed.  this reminds me of when I began the medium with my first build,  the Nordkap.

   it wasn't laser cut either.......I downloaded the revised copy of the instructions,  even though I had the original ones. 

 

I'll look forward in seeing the finished hull

[Izzy Madd]

thanks Izzy.......I'm relieved that you didn't take my comments as criticism........in no way would I ever do that      I've only been involved with the medium since 2009,  so even if I did throw stones,  they'd hit the ground before they ever hit the target       but I am familiar with Billing's kits and their construction,  so I may be able to help in some small way.  as with the instructions,  it won't matter much if you were to follow the old or revised copy.......the big differences will be that the kit isn't laser cut and some of the part numbers will have changed.  this reminds me of when I began the medium with my first build,  the Nordkap.

   it wasn't laser cut either.......I downloaded the revised copy of the instructions,  even though I had the original ones. 

 

I'll look forward in seeing the finished hull

Any help is grateful accepted. Criticisms I ignore

[popeye the sailor]

you could give it a waterline,  by painting the bottom paint.   could be just this particular kit............if it were me,  I would have planked the entire hull.....the heck with that noise of a solid panel bottom.

 

as for the question you PM'd me about........did you get a full sheet with a 1:1 drawing of the deck layout.......anything that shows you where certain parts go?

     I was looking at the instructions on the Billing USA site...they might as well done it in braille.

[Izzy Madd]

When I started I just intended to build the kit. But it's snowballed and as I want to leave the planking showing. Im going to use 0.8mm deck planks for the base boards. So it "should" look ok. If not I can rip out the base boards and plank it. I'm also toying with the idea of opening up the interior. As I was on dry goods barges. As the hold was just the inside of outer hull. With walls at either end. Which if i do do threats all the ribs would be if I ciput them back and just add two walls and plank the base on the inside. I'll see ho it goes up to that point first.

 

As for the hull sides the stern is suck down now and had its first levelling sand down. So I can see the lines of the hull and I've still cot grooves for the caulking. So it's caulking for this first side and plank the rest of the other side then plank the base boards.

[Izzy Madd]

Just a quick update the boss has okay end the funds so I've been down the local Forrest and chopped a few oak trees down.

 

 

 

As you can see Nannies fully inspected them, while on a break from the Cutty Sark. Although she not to sure about the large mast piece

Edited May 7, 2015 by Izzy Madd

[clearway]

Hmm your admiral sounds like mine Izzy

[jthemanjack]

Hi there Izzy,

 Will be keeping tabs on your build as I have a soft spot for the Will Everard as she was my first build,at some time I think I will revisit the build to do a better job of her.

Interesting idea to caulk the hull planking...are you going to make her into a working model ? and I may be mistaken but wasn't she steel hulled...... I don't suppose it matters about authenticity as long as you are happy with her and enjoy the build.

 

good luck

    Jack

[Izzy Madd]

Hi there Izzy,

 Will be keeping tabs on your build as I have a soft spot for the Will Everard as she was my first build,at some time I think I will revisit the build to do a better job of her.

Interesting idea to caulk the hull planking...are you going to make her into a working model ? and I may be mistaken but wasn't she steel hulled...... I don't suppose it matters about authenticity as long as you are happy with her and enjoy the build.

 

good luck

    Jack

Hi, Jack

 

Always wanted to say that but never met a jack before :-). You are right she is a steel hull boat. And still running. Although I had the pleasure of sailing on board her when she had just been taken over by OCL. I've a soft spot for her and wood. And as they were being made from the two materials at the same time. The last in wood was 1936. I'm taking a little artistic licence. Shall we say. The layout will still be Will just out of wood and in shades of wood. Unless things go wrong. I mean I change my mind .but the model is somewhat short of the real thing as a look at the virtual tour will show. The hold cover is far bigger than the model for a start. So I'm trying to meet somewhere in the middle as true to Will as possible but all from wood and based upon the model. Unless I can obtain better dimensions of certain part such as the hold cover. Which for a start should actually be higher than the sides of the boat. Which when fully loaded would have been the water line.

 

So I feel there enough room between mine and billings to still say it's Will. Although I may rename her as I had a friend who's first name was Everard. But that's in the future. So welcome aboard and enjoy the trip. I just hope you've bought enough booze for everyone

[Izzy Madd]

Hmm your admiral sounds like mine Izzy

Ah but the beauty of my admiral is she's only 20mm high and will be stuck on the front of the Cutty Sark. The nearest I've got to an admiral is the ships cat, who comes on the bed occasionally during the night.

 

I just haven't got the heart to tell her she's been dead five years.

Edited May 9, 2015 by Izzy Madd

[Izzy Madd]

Ahoy there.

 

Just a quick question. Please be brutally honest. As this is the very first one I've made. So I want advice on how it could be better as much as acceptance. Sorry about the quality.

 

 

 

[clearway]

looks ok Izzy- i use copper or anealled  iron wire for strops as well.

Keith

[popeye the sailor]

a good method is to wrap the thread around the block,  and with another piece of thread,  wrap the two together.  go about 1/8 up the line it's attached to,  and then trim off the excess.  what you did looks good.....just beef up the attachment point at the block.

[Izzy Madd]

a good method is to wrap the thread around the block,  and with another piece of thread,  wrap the two together.  go about 1/8 up the line it's attached to,  and then trim off the excess.  what you did looks good.....just beef up the attachment point at the block.

Thanks for the honest opinion and advice I'm not overly happy with the becket either. As for attaching I used a midline reef knot with the ends at the top the duped it in sealing solution then made the becket but I've been waiting for some more thread and I think, hope, I've got a better way of making it. Just a matter of putting it into practice. I'm reasonably happy with hold of the strops I just need thicker thread. As it tends to dissapear into the groove all the way round. So I'll be posting the next generation soon also I noticed on one the proportions are off. As the width is greater than the depth. And from what I can tell it's usually about 2:3:4 on a single block as a rough guide as they are all sorts of size. But the size that's given is the wheel size whic is also the width of a single pulley and that's very roughly twice the height and 1 1/2 the depth. It just gives me some sort of figures to work with. When doing them in bulk.

 

I've also figured a better way of doing the strop groove on the long sides and the lengths so it's like everything make it as you go along and learn learn learn.

 

That's why I like honest answers like yours which highlight what's not quite right. As I struggle to spot it as I'm too close so to speak.

[popeye the sailor]

browse through a few build logs and you will see some of the techniques others use.  tutorials can also be found here and on the web.

[Izzy Madd]

browse through a few build logs and you will see some of the techniques others use.  tutorials can also be found here and on the web.

Thanks for the advice. I've been looking at many sources of methods. But I'm enjoying the trial and error method at the moment. It more a case of, I know there not right but I can't quite say why. Hence me asking as others can often see pat the wood to the trees.

[Izzy Madd]

Ahoy me hearties,

 

Simple question. After the master shipwrights left the apprentice in charge of sanding while he nipped of for a quick chat with the local barmaid. I've now got a gaping hole in the side of my boat where the Rodney sanded through the the planks.

 

But having altready done this bit before and now owning two more billings boats. I was wondering about plank benders. I've not got much joy with soaking as the planks are just too thin so there is insufficient material for them to act like the full size and the outer surface just peals away.

 

Now I know a man who can make me a bending tip for my soldering iron. For free so I've got that covered. But I also noticed the plier typ benders. Which have a knife like edge and a firm rubber/plastic pad to bend planks.

 

My double question is.

 

Do they work well?

 

Also unless I'm much mistaken. Are they not just expensive and tacky anvil secateurs?

 

Which are stronger, designed for prolonged use and about a third the price.

 

Any advice please

[Izzy Madd]

a good method is to wrap the thread around the block,  and with another piece of thread,  wrap the two together.  go about 1/8 up the line it's attached to,  and then trim off the excess.  what you did looks good.....just beef up the attachment point at the block.

Hi I've been looking at strop block closer and see what you mean about e amount of whipping. As I'd fallen into the same trap as most untrained artists do. That of thinkin "I know what these look like. Who needs pictures?" Which of course we all do as things are never quite how we think they are.especially for the Victory era. As for Little Willy, the may be another name change depending on the finished project. To honour a good friend who passed away a few years by who's first name Was Everard.

[Izzy Madd]

Just a few words tonight.

 

I've finished the planking of the base of the hull

 

 

 

 

I like how it's turned out it is the look I was after. What are anyone else's thoughts?

 

And ther result of the over sanding

 

 

[clearway]

Looks good izzy- strange seeing "will" in a planked finish

Keith