michael101 Posted October 31, 2015 Share #1 Posted October 31, 2015 hello I'm trying to find a tutorial for how to curve the bow block filler and the counter block can someone explain me how to do it? thank you. Michael. mtaylor, CaptainSteve and Canute 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbshan Posted October 31, 2015 Share #2 Posted October 31, 2015 Look on your plans, see if they have given you some contours to carve these blocks to. mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modeler12 Posted October 31, 2015 Share #3 Posted October 31, 2015 I don't have a tutorial but here are a couple pictures of how I went about cutting and contouring those items. I hope this helps. I first rough cut the block out of bass wood (you could use balsa) and carved some of the main contours. Then I used some 'hot glue' to mount them at the end of a stick so I could sand the part on my disk sander without burning my fingers. Obviously the final parts need a lot more work but that is better done after you install them and file them smooth along with the bulkheads. Jack12477, mtaylor, dgbot and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornet Posted October 31, 2015 Share #4 Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) Have you looked at this resource? I know that I found it useful. http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/BowandSternFillerBlocks.pdf Steve Edited October 31, 2015 by hornet Canute, dgbot, Jack12477 and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vossy Posted October 31, 2015 Share #5 Posted October 31, 2015 hello. i always use filler blocks. and i always use Balsa wood. much easier to shape and sand. chris Seventynet, CaptainSteve, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornet Posted October 31, 2015 Share #6 Posted October 31, 2015 I have used both basswood and balsa. I found that balsa was very soft when trying to screw in planking screws. I partially solved the problem by giving them a few coats of a PVA and water mix. When dry this firmed them up a bit. I still preferred the basswood though. Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainSteve Posted October 31, 2015 Share #7 Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) To help with doing filler blocks, trace the templates from your kit plans, and then glue these to some stiff card. Once the glue has dried, cut them out, paying particular attention to the inside of the curves, which will be where these templates will marry-up with your shaped filler blocks. Also using your kit plans, there should be markings to show at which level each template should fit (mine were labelled A, B, C and D). Mark these "levels" on the backs (where they will be joined to your false keel and the bulk-heads) and across the faces of your filler blocks. For me, at least, I found these templates to be an easy way to check that I had (finally !!) removed enough wood !! Edited October 31, 2015 by CaptainSteve grsjax, vossy, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael101 Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share #8 Posted October 31, 2015 Thank you all ! I'm going to work on the rattlesnake of model shipways And now I'm checking the plans ... Hornet The block filler is to smal so I can't do as the tutorial it's will be very smal pices to work with... CaptainSteve can you explain me the steps again my English is not very well but it sounds interesting the guide that you wrote Also I didn't understand what you wrote about the levels (what levels mean?) Thank you Michael. Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim I. Posted October 31, 2015 Share #9 Posted October 31, 2015 Work slowly. Filler blocks can be frustrating to make, but well crafted ones will make things much easier as the build progresses. - Tim Canute, mtaylor and CaptainSteve 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainSteve Posted October 31, 2015 Share #10 Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) CaptainSteve can you explain me the steps again my English is not very well but it sounds interesting the guide that you wrote Also I didn't understand what you wrote about the levels (what levels mean?) Thank you Michael. Michael, Unfortunately, I did not keep the templates I had made once the filler blocks were done. All I did was to trace these templates from my plans ... Starting with the upper picture of Detail 2-H above, each of four templates would be cut from the left-hand side, and going through to the relevant curved line. When transferred to card and cut-out, these are then held against the hull at the relevant levels (see lower picture of 2-H). They will indicate if your filler block still requires more trimming ... Hope that helps, and maybe others have better pictures of this process !! Edited October 31, 2015 by CaptainSteve dgbot, Canute, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael101 Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share #11 Posted November 4, 2015 thank you!!!! CaptainSteve and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wthilgen Posted November 15, 2015 Share #12 Posted November 15, 2015 I use expanding foam from a spray can. One can get it at "Home Depot" the old cans used to have to be used all at once. The new stuff can be used again and again if you seal the nozzle as directed. It expands quite a bit, so a little goes a long way. Make sure it has an outlet so over expansion has a place to go. I generally let it dry for about 3 days, then trim off excess. You'll find it dries pretty hard. Can be trimmed with any sharp edge and can be sanded. It states that you can paint it, I don't know for sure because I only use it between the bulkheads and then plank over it. jbford and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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